Diy cree cxb3590 3500k help please

jeepster1993

jeepster1993

Well-Known Member
pablomon said:
Thank you so much for the reply! May i know how have them worked for you in regards of yields and quality of the herb? I know Citizen are not as good as a Cree or so people say so i might not get to your yields but at least close. Nice Setup seems a lot like mine 6 cobs at around 330 watts.
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Yield...is a moving target. That really is more genetics.
I have yielded 2 plus grams a watt in some Super lemon Haze and 3/4gm a watt on some freebie kush seeds.
Quality...I grow the dank! My pot is good as it can be! That...I have a bit of control of. It, to me, is about the quality.
I will average a gram a watt or even 1.2 a watt, so at 320 watts, the yield will be ok. Getting the dank is where it happens.
 
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pablomon

Member
Randomblame said:
Sorry, bro! Thats "duplack"!
Citizens are just as good like Cree's or even better depending on which one you use. And the plants really don't care as long as they get enough light.
You can reach +1,5g/w with all exsisting COB's even with Citi1212...
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Nice to know that, thank you! that gives me more confidence on those 1212 I bought
 
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pablomon

Member
jeepster1993 said:
Yield...is a moving target. That really is more genetics.
I have yielded 2 plus grams a watt in some Super lemon Haze and 3/4gm a watt on some freebie kush seeds.
Quality...I grow the dank! My pot is good as it can be! That...I have a bit of control of. It, to me, is about the quality.
I will average a gram a watt or even 1.2 a watt, so at 320 watts, the yield will be ok. Getting the dank is where it happens.
Click to expand...
With my previous lamp a meizhi Led 418 watts from the wall i was getting great quality but just 2 little abou 300 grams dry weight using flora trio , liquid kool bloom , Molasses and epsom salts, so my hopes is to get more with a little less electricity while keep in it dank! so 1 gram per watt will be great but i have hopes of at least 1.3, thanks for the reply
 
Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
pablomon said:
With my previous lamp a meizhi Led 418 watts from the wall i was getting great quality but just 2 little abou 300 grams dry weight using flora trio , liquid kool bloom , Molasses and epsom salts, so my hopes is to get more with a little less electricity while keep in it dank! so 1 gram per watt will be great but i have hopes of at least 1.3, thanks for the reply
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Yeah, I have the feeling you are on the right track.
I will give only one tip which I would like to have had earlier myself.
Its about VPD which is a hidden force when it comes to growing indoors.
With white LED's you want ambient temperatures of 28-30°C and humidity of around 60-65%. LED have almost no far-red compared to hps and you need higher ambient temps to get optimal photosynthesis. At this temps its important to keep a good humidity. With too little humidity the VPD gets too high and this will cause issues with nutrient uptake. Especially with calcium...
Only one week with too high VPD can cause that everything in your garden turns yellow, wilt or get otherwise broken.

Below are VPD charts you can work with. The 2nd and 3rd are with -1 and -2° less leaf temps in mind. I would use a thermo/humidity meter with wired probe and hang the sensor directly between the tops. A meter on the wall will show different values, especially humidity and its important to get true readings.
 

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pablomon

Member
OLD MOTHER SATIVA said:
good leds good /cobs basically the same..the rest[growing] is up to you
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Agreed I have been doing great with keeping my plants healthy and nice with buds getting me high nice tricomes and flavor but my lights were just not powerful enough to give me what I wanted regarding yields , hopefully this will be a game changer!
 
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pablomon

Member
Randomblame said:
Yeah, I have the feeling you are on the right track.
I will give only one tip which I would like to have had earlier myself.
Its about VPD which is a hidden force when it comes to growing indoors.
With white LED's you want ambient temperatures of 28-30°C and humidity of around 60-65%. LED have almost no far-red compared to hps and you need higher ambient temps to get optimal photosynthesis. At this temps its important to keep a good humidity. With too little humidity the VPD gets too high and this will cause issues with nutrient uptake. Especially with calcium...
Only one week with too high VPD can cause that everything in your garden turns yellow, wilt or get otherwise broken.

Below are VPD charts you can work with. The 2nd and 3rd are with -1 and -2° less leaf temps in mind. I would use a thermo/humidity meter with wired probe and hang the sensor directly between the tops. A meter on the wall will show different values, especially humidity and its important to get true readings.
Click to expand...
Thank you so much, Costa Rica never gets to cold so actually cooling the tent has been the biggest issue I run the lights after 6pm here where it cools down a little so my tent is usually running at 76-81 degrees and 55-60 I hope that's good enough, I will definetly put attention to this chart and work with it! Thanks for the info
 
Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
pablomon said:
Thank you so much, Costa Rica never gets to cold so actually cooling the tent has been the biggest issue I run the lights after 6pm here where it cools down a little so my tent is usually running at 76-81 degrees and 55-60 I hope that's good enough, I will definetly put attention to this chart and work with it! Thanks for the info
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Wtf, you need to do indoor growing ... in paradise..?!? Something is deffinately wrong in this world, really!

I do night runs myself just because of the better humidity at night.
To keep the temps stable is probably your biggest problem and a remotely wired driver mounted outside of the tent would remove at least all of the driver heat.
An HLG-320 on 220v produce ~6%(20w) pure heat and at 120v it's around 8-9%(25-29w) heat. That makes quite a noticeable difference.., bro! Less temps means you can use more light.
Humidity is okay for 81°F but observe the babes carefully. If you see chlorosis(clowdy yellowing between the veins) on the mddle or upper leaves the VPD is probably a bit too high because of a too low humidity. Too much calcium uptake would shut out magnesium. This is usually the first thing you see when the VPD gets too high.
I recommend AWG14 wire(2,5mm²) for the remote connection(driver to lamp) because of its lower resistance. This way you keep the voltage droop as low as possible. For internal wiring(COB to COB) you can still use AWG18..
 
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pablomon

Member
Randomblame said:
Wtf, you need to do indoor growing ... in paradise..?!? Something is deffinately wrong in this world, really!

I do night runs myself just because of the better humidity at night.
To keep the temps stable is probably your biggest problem and a remotely wired driver mounted outside of the tent would remove at least all of the driver heat.
An HLG-320 on 220v produce ~6%(20w) pure heat and at 120v it's around 8-9%(25-29w) heat. That makes quite a noticeable difference.., bro! Less temps means you can use more light.
Humidity is okay for 81°F but observe the babes carefully. If you see chlorosis(clowdy yellowing between the veins) on the mddle or upper leaves the VPD is probably a bit too high because of a too low humidity. Too much calcium uptake would shut out magnesium. This is usually the first thing you see when the VPD gets too high.
I recommend AWG14 wire(2,5mm²) for the remote connection(driver to lamp) because of its lower resistance. This way you keep the voltage droop as low as possible. For internal wiring(COB to COB) you can still use AWG18..
Click to expand...
I agree with you, i have the perfect weather for growing but also live in an apartment , Nosy neighbors all around and still not legal around here even if its not hardly penalized i want to keep cops away hahaha. I will attemp to better control VPD in my tent and keep an eye on the leafs but so far looking good thank you so much for the advise my friend.
 
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