DIY: Home Made CO2 Guide
- Thread starter XxNinjaxX
- Start date
homebrewer
Well-Known Member
I'm flattered that you're now following me around here. Please, lets debate on the topic of Zymurgy. I'll embarrass you.
I'll start by asking you a few questions:
One cup of sugar into one litre of water results in what specific gravity?
How many yeast cells are needed to properly ferment said specific gravity?
One teaspoon of dry yeast is how many yeast cells?
Please outline the stages of fermentation.
How long will it take for the concoction on page one to fully ferment out?
How many times will you have to refill said concoction throughout the plant's flowering period?
What is an adequate size mixture of sugar and water to make this situation actually work and be cost-effective, AND how many yeast cells should be pitched to fully ferment the batch?
Google is open 24/7 and I know you've got nothing to do. While you're researching, I'll be relaxing by my dozens of homebrew medals drinking one of my award winning beers.
jimsremoval
Active Member
so no 1 is gonna answer my question that is actually going to help me, instead dudes rr just gonna bitch like like females. do those co2 green pads work. the ones that you mist and its supposed to emit co2. i just spent 35 bucks on five of em. your supposed to change them everyweek. its a white pad that you hang up and mist with mwater. its suposed to be a co2 generator. has anyone ever heard of it, and does it work? please ellaborate. thank you.
Joker209
Well-Known Member
Never heard of it here dude. I would see what the ingredients (if any) are and return here and say. If it has sulfur it will probably work. If it has sulfur in it it will also keep mold away. If it is a sodium, magnesium pads it should work. I don't know the product and I don't know the ingredients so I can't say weather or not it will work.
XxNinjaxX
Well-Known Member
Hey Guys, how goes it?
I never thought this thread would cause so much drama..
I am not a scientist, and futhermore I have no idea how many yeast cells you need to impregnate ur half sister, what I do m ow is that with these generators your ppm reading IS higher, & my plants DO grow better..
..You can take what u want from that - Make 1, Dont Make 1.. I don't care, but keep ur shit out of my thread.
I never thought this thread would cause so much drama..
I am not a scientist, and futhermore I have no idea how many yeast cells you need to impregnate ur half sister, what I do m ow is that with these generators your ppm reading IS higher, & my plants DO grow better..
..You can take what u want from that - Make 1, Dont Make 1.. I don't care, but keep ur shit out of my thread.
homebrewer
Well-Known Member
Since TryStick wanted to call me out yet can't answer the simplest of questions, I'll answer them.
The concoction on page one yields a specific gravity of around 1.081. For you beer and wine drinkers, that's enough sugar to produce 10% alcohol assuming complete attenuation. Maltose isn't 100% fermentable but sucrose and dextrose are. At those potential alcohol levels, you'd need 14 billion cells of yeast at the standard pitching rate of one million cells per ml of liquid per degree plato to properly attenuate the mixture. 14 billion yeast cells is about 1 gram of yeast.
The reason the outlined recipe for this method is bunk is that one litre of liquid at your pitching rate of 'one teaspoon' of yeast and the specific gravity of liquid is that you'll get about 3-5 days of the smallest amount of CO2 before the mixture has attenuated, or completely stalled. The problem with the gravity is that it's too high and can present attenuation problems for the yeast. Most strains really struggle in liquids over 10% unless aerated periodically. One litre is also WAY too small a batch size. Yeast starters for batches of beer at 1/2 gallon barely add a scent to a closet, let alone add any CO2 benefit to plants.
If you want a system that works, and mind you this will work for a small closet grow and that's all, you need to increase the batch size and change the ratio of sugar to water. Only one pack of yeast is necessary as when yeast go through the phases of respiration, fermentation and sedimentation, your cell count increases 4 fold. A Brewery will recycle yeast and for this amateur-hour project, you can too. Except you're not concerned about fusel alcohols, phenolics and ester production. That means you can use one pack of yeast for the rest of your life.
One Gallon of water
1.4 lbs of sugar
1 pack of Safale S05 dry ale yeast (only 2 grams are needed out of the 11 gram pack)
This 1.065 mixture should ferment for about 1 week giving you a constant flow of CO2. Ideally, you should really double the batch size (and the ingredients) to get any kind of decent CO2 production. Ferment this in a 3 gallon pale with the lid off even. You also need to make sure that you aerate the mixture at some point before fermentation has started as yeast need food (sugar in this case) and O2 to thrive. An airlock is not needed yet won't hurt as they are only useful when sanitation is a concern. At the end of the week, the yeast will have flocculated to the bottom of your container. Mix up a new mixture of sugar and water, dump out your fermented batch of prison wine, but make sure to leave at least half of the beige sludge in the container as that yeast will ferment your next round.
The concern I have is that is this really worth the 25 Lbs of sugar during flower that's needed to add any measurable amount of CO2? I'd say save the money and add an intake fan.
There you go Ninja. Your recipe has been corrected by a professional and should really be added to the first page. Make 1, Dont Make 1.. I don't care, but do some damn research before you post this kind of crap again
The concoction on page one yields a specific gravity of around 1.081. For you beer and wine drinkers, that's enough sugar to produce 10% alcohol assuming complete attenuation. Maltose isn't 100% fermentable but sucrose and dextrose are. At those potential alcohol levels, you'd need 14 billion cells of yeast at the standard pitching rate of one million cells per ml of liquid per degree plato to properly attenuate the mixture. 14 billion yeast cells is about 1 gram of yeast.
The reason the outlined recipe for this method is bunk is that one litre of liquid at your pitching rate of 'one teaspoon' of yeast and the specific gravity of liquid is that you'll get about 3-5 days of the smallest amount of CO2 before the mixture has attenuated, or completely stalled. The problem with the gravity is that it's too high and can present attenuation problems for the yeast. Most strains really struggle in liquids over 10% unless aerated periodically. One litre is also WAY too small a batch size. Yeast starters for batches of beer at 1/2 gallon barely add a scent to a closet, let alone add any CO2 benefit to plants.
If you want a system that works, and mind you this will work for a small closet grow and that's all, you need to increase the batch size and change the ratio of sugar to water. Only one pack of yeast is necessary as when yeast go through the phases of respiration, fermentation and sedimentation, your cell count increases 4 fold. A Brewery will recycle yeast and for this amateur-hour project, you can too. Except you're not concerned about fusel alcohols, phenolics and ester production. That means you can use one pack of yeast for the rest of your life.
One Gallon of water
1.4 lbs of sugar
1 pack of Safale S05 dry ale yeast (only 2 grams are needed out of the 11 gram pack)
This 1.065 mixture should ferment for about 1 week giving you a constant flow of CO2. Ideally, you should really double the batch size (and the ingredients) to get any kind of decent CO2 production. Ferment this in a 3 gallon pale with the lid off even. You also need to make sure that you aerate the mixture at some point before fermentation has started as yeast need food (sugar in this case) and O2 to thrive. An airlock is not needed yet won't hurt as they are only useful when sanitation is a concern. At the end of the week, the yeast will have flocculated to the bottom of your container. Mix up a new mixture of sugar and water, dump out your fermented batch of prison wine, but make sure to leave at least half of the beige sludge in the container as that yeast will ferment your next round.
The concern I have is that is this really worth the 25 Lbs of sugar during flower that's needed to add any measurable amount of CO2? I'd say save the money and add an intake fan.
There you go Ninja. Your recipe has been corrected by a professional and should really be added to the first page. Make 1, Dont Make 1.. I don't care, but do some damn research before you post this kind of crap again
Joker209
Well-Known Member
Well thanks for clearing that up for those of us who asked that question when we read this thread. The simpler the better... To be completely honest with you I doubt too many people will spend their time reading all of that time consumed post but keep up the good work at informing people of more useless knowledge unless you own a brewery...
homebrewer
Well-Known Member
Sugar, water and yeast is as simple as it gets
. It doesn't matter to me if anyone does my recipe, but frankly, between my post and the original on page one, I think you can tell who knows a thing or two about zymurgy.
jimsremoval
Active Member
white widow1
white widow2
lowrider1
lowrider 2
tell me how im doing. im using The Green Pads. they are co2 generators that you hang up and mist once a day in the morning. the humidity causes it to release co2. i think im going to get a co2 tank and just realease some twice a day. once in the mornign. once at night. what do you guys think of that. and how am i doing for my first grow. i have a hydro setup and about 11 soil plants. some bag seeds. 5 lowriders. 10 white widows. three in my hydro kit and the rest in soil. all of my lowriders are in soil
Unclepauly
Active Member
The plants don't need co2 at night. Release once in the morning and once halfway through the day. I believe they use oxygen at night
jimsremoval
Active Member
putting some chemistry into thought if all of the sugar from your batch would be converted into co2 you would get arround 300liters of pure co2 from all this batch, dont have the time at the moment for exact numbers but it should be something not far from 300litersSince TryStick wanted to call me out yet can't answer the simplest of questions, I'll answer them.
The concoction on page one yields a specific gravity of around 1.081. For you beer and wine drinkers, that's enough sugar to produce 10% alcohol assuming complete attenuation. Maltose isn't 100% fermentable but sucrose and dextrose are. At those potential alcohol levels, you'd need 14 billion cells of yeast at the standard pitching rate of one million cells per ml of liquid per degree plato to properly attenuate the mixture. 14 billion yeast cells is about 1 gram of yeast.
The reason the outlined recipe for this method is bunk is that one litre of liquid at your pitching rate of 'one teaspoon' of yeast and the specific gravity of liquid is that you'll get about 3-5 days of the smallest amount of CO2 before the mixture has attenuated, or completely stalled. The problem with the gravity is that it's too high and can present attenuation problems for the yeast. Most strains really struggle in liquids over 10% unless aerated periodically. One litre is also WAY too small a batch size. Yeast starters for batches of beer at 1/2 gallon barely add a scent to a closet, let alone add any CO2 benefit to plants.
If you want a system that works, and mind you this will work for a small closet grow and that's all, you need to increase the batch size and change the ratio of sugar to water. Only one pack of yeast is necessary as when yeast go through the phases of respiration, fermentation and sedimentation, your cell count increases 4 fold. A Brewery will recycle yeast and for this amateur-hour project, you can too. Except you're not concerned about fusel alcohols, phenolics and ester production. That means you can use one pack of yeast for the rest of your life.
One Gallon of water
1.4 lbs of sugar
1 pack of Safale S05 dry ale yeast (only 2 grams are needed out of the 11 gram pack)
This 1.065 mixture should ferment for about 1 week giving you a constant flow of CO2. Ideally, you should really double the batch size (and the ingredients) to get any kind of decent CO2 production. Ferment this in a 3 gallon pale with the lid off even. You also need to make sure that you aerate the mixture at some point before fermentation has started as yeast need food (sugar in this case) and O2 to thrive. An airlock is not needed yet won't hurt as they are only useful when sanitation is a concern. At the end of the week, the yeast will have flocculated to the bottom of your container. Mix up a new mixture of sugar and water, dump out your fermented batch of prison wine, but make sure to leave at least half of the beige sludge in the container as that yeast will ferment your next round.
The concern I have is that is this really worth the 25 Lbs of sugar during flower that's needed to add any measurable amount of CO2? I'd say save the money and add an intake fan.
There you go Ninja. Your recipe has been corrected by a professional and should really be added to the first page. Make 1, Dont Make 1.. I don't care, but do some damn research before you post this kind of crap again
hey homebrewer, thanks for your reciepe! I dont have the money or the balls to get a proper co2 bottle rigged up...so do plan on using this method during my next grow...if its worthwhile. I have a 4x4x6 (w x d x h) grow tent...do you think this would make a difference?
I thought I could get a 50-100l barrel and put the mixture in there...then (is this correct?) i run a tube from the barrel into a another tub or bottle of water which cleans the co2 which then goes back out the bottle and into the tent? or even straight into the air intake for the tent? Does that make sense? If not i will use my mspaint skills to make a diagram haha!
thanks man!
I thought I could get a 50-100l barrel and put the mixture in there...then (is this correct?) i run a tube from the barrel into a another tub or bottle of water which cleans the co2 which then goes back out the bottle and into the tent? or even straight into the air intake for the tent? Does that make sense? If not i will use my mspaint skills to make a diagram haha!
thanks man!
Joker209
Well-Known Member
This is ridiculous!! I honestly feel this has gotten a little retarded... Dude Homebrew you should start another thread if you want to draw attention to yourself... This thread has been a sticky due to the fact it works and it's simple... You come in here stiring things up... Just go make another thread and stop thread jacking man. This works and is easy to do so a ton of people now use it... If you want rep just give me a second to figure the rep thing out... How do you give negatives now?
boomdiddly
Member
+ rep for you ninja , great system, cheap and effective!
homebrewer
Well-Known Member
I don't give an ef about rep. But I do care about good information, which isn't found on page one .
.
How about you guys??