DIY kits now available from Timber!

hockeybry2

hockeybry2

Well-Known Member
linky said:
I think I have a bad cob. I have 6 4 cob kits (24 cobs). I just received them today so I just pulled the first 4 out and hooked them up to see how they looked.. I don't get anything but a little bit lit up kinda out of the one. So I took another cob out and tried replacing each cob at a time and the once the one that kinda lit up was out and the new one in it works perfectly.. is that a bad cob?

You can kinda see how it lights up a little, the one on the right. after replacing the one on the right with another they all work.

View attachment 3796602

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I'm sure Dan will take care of it
 
RainDan

RainDan

Well-Known Member
linky said:
I think I have a bad cob. I have 6 4 cob kits (24 cobs). I just received them today so I just pulled the first 4 out and hooked them up to see how they looked.. I don't get anything but a little bit lit up kinda out of the one. So I took another cob out and tried replacing each cob at a time and the once the one that kinda lit up was out and the new one in it works perfectly.. is that a bad cob?

You can kinda see how it lights up a little, the one on the right. after replacing the one on the right with another they all work.

View attachment 3796602

View attachment 3796603
Click to expand...
Hi @linky

Yes - looks like one of the COBs isn't working. We do test everything before it ships out....that said, it happens. I sent you a PM - we will get a replacement COB assembly and a return label sent out to you today. Sorry for the inconvenience!

Thanks,
Dan
 
S

skunx818

Well-Known Member
I was wondering how many cobs you recommend for a 2.5-3' x 9.5' area running at you 1400 ma?

How many for the same area but run at 700 ma?

And about how much cooler would they run or with the extra cobs would it balance out?

I have no experience with led yet. Ut excited about the possibilities
 
S

skunx818

Well-Known Member
Does the 6 cob kit come with anything that the others dont? Just wondering why it doesn't fall in line with the pricing.. 399-4 cob 499-5 cob 629-6 cob
 
RainDan

RainDan

Well-Known Member
skunx818 said:
Does the 6 cob kit come with anything that the others dont? Just wondering why it doesn't fall in line with the pricing.. 399-4 cob 499-5 cob 629-6 cob
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Hi @skunx818

They all come with the same components - the reason is that the power supply used (HLG-320H-C1400B) is about 2.5x as expensive as the one used in the 200 watt kit. Additionally, shipping costs are higher as these do not travel in a flat rate box. This accounts for the difference in price.

Hope this helps.

Regards,
Dan
 
S

skunx818

Well-Known Member
RainDan said:
Hi @skunx818

They all come with the same components - the reason is that the power supply used (HLG-320H-C1400B) is about 2.5x as expensive as the one used in the 200 watt kit. Additionally, shipping costs are higher as these do not travel in a flat rate box. This accounts for the difference in price.

Hope this helps.

Regards,
Dan
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Gotcha! Makes total sense, is local pickup available to save on costs?

I either have to save for a good long while and try for some kind of quantity discount (?) or save for a while and get a couple kits at a time..

Sorry - im not cheap; just poor. Rich in spirit though. Happy October everyone!
 
linky

linky

Well-Known Member
Almost finished building one of my lights, this is 40" x 40" Will go over a 4 x 4. Just have to wire it up and test it out.

Dan, is there a way to rotate the cob 90 degrees on the heatsink? The way it is now the screw holes in the side of the heatsink for mounting to a frame have it where the wires go out right against the frame if you understand what I mean. Also is it okay to hot glue the wire where you push it into the solderless holder once its all wired up and tested out?

*Ohh another thing too, how safe is the open cob, meaning with no lens or anything over it, is it super sensitive to touch/dirt etc?

canopy-12.jpg
 
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RainDan

RainDan

Well-Known Member
skunx818 said:
Gotcha! Makes total sense, is local pickup available to save on costs?

I either have to save for a good long while and try for some kind of quantity discount (?) or save for a while and get a couple kits at a time..

Sorry - im not cheap; just poor. Rich in spirit though. Happy October everyone!
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Hi @skunkx818,

Local pickup is always available to save on shipping costs. I will send you a PM.

Have a good day!

Regards,
Dan
 
RainDan

RainDan

Well-Known Member
linky said:
Almost finished building one of my lights, this is 40" x 40" Will go over a 4 x 4. Just have to wire it up and test it out.

Dan, is there a way to rotate the cob 90 degrees on the heatsink? The way it is now the screw holes in the side of the heatsink for mounting to a frame have it where the wires go out right against the frame if you understand what I mean. Also is it okay to hot glue the wire where you push it into the solderless holder once its all wired up and tested out?

View attachment 3798099
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Hi @linky,

Unfortunately, rotating the COB 90 deg on the heatsink will throw off the reflector holder mounting points. Here are a few options:

1. You can utilize the top mounting points (4) on the face of the heat sink for those that are impeded by the frame/side mounts
2. You can bend the wire so it is out of the way of your frame (we use solid core wire so it will hold it's shape)
3. You can send the heatsinks you need drilled to us and we can drill/tap additional side mount holes for you

Regarding usage of hot glue on the solderless connectors - it shouldn't pose any issues - that said, it is not something we have tried so I wouldn't advise unless others have feedback regarding it's usage. I would recommend using electrical RTV if you are looking to further waterproof those connections. It should be electrical/electronic grade RTV, specifically. Here is a link to one example:

http://www.americansealantsinc.com/388-electronic-grade-silicone/

I hope this helps - let me know if you need anything else.

Have a good day.

Regards,
Dan
 
linky

linky

Well-Known Member
RainDan said:
Hi @linky,

Unfortunately, rotating the COB 90 deg on the heatsink will throw off the reflector holder mounting points. Here are a few options:

1. You can utilize the top mounting points (4) on the face of the heat sink for those that are impeded by the frame/side mounts
2. You can bend the wire so it is out of the way of your frame (we use solid core wire so it will hold it's shape)
3. You can send the heatsinks you need drilled to us and we can drill/tap additional side mount holes for you

Regarding usage of hot glue on the solderless connectors - it shouldn't pose any issues - that said, it is not something we have tried so I wouldn't advise unless others have feedback regarding it's usage. I would recommend using electrical RTV if you are looking to further waterproof those connections. It should be electrical/electronic grade RTV, specifically. Here is a link to one example:

http://www.americansealantsinc.com/388-electronic-grade-silicone/

I hope this helps - let me know if you need anything else.

Have a good day.

Regards,
Dan
Click to expand...

Thanks Dan, I mainly wanted to use the hot glue to keep the connection secure so it would not wiggle loose and short out on the frame. I notice the wire will come out of the connector if wiggled/moved around. I would be securing the wire down in the rail to prevent it from moving but would feel more comfortable with something holding the wire securely into the connector. I will pick up some electrical RTV and use that instead of hot glue.

Naw, no need to tap more holes in the heatsink, I can make it work just fine the way it is I just figured before trying to take off a holder/cob I would ask if that was doable.. since its not its fine as is. :) thanks again! For all the future ones I will be buidling I will try mounting with the holes on the face.
 
Big smo

Big smo

Well-Known Member
linky said:
Almost finished building one of my lights, this is 40" x 40" Will go over a 4 x 4. Just have to wire it up and test it out.

Dan, is there a way to rotate the cob 90 degrees on the heatsink? The way it is now the screw holes in the side of the heatsink for mounting to a frame have it where the wires go out right against the frame if you understand what I mean. Also is it okay to hot glue the wire where you push it into the solderless holder once its all wired up and tested out?

*Ohh another thing too, how safe is the open cob, meaning with no lens or anything over it, is it super sensitive to touch/dirt etc?

View attachment 3798099
Click to expand...
Those bars don't sag after cutting the slots for the perpendicular rail? I did it this on a 2 foot X frame and it bent quite a lot.
 
linky

linky

Well-Known Member
Big smo said:
Those bars don't sag after cutting the slots for the perpendicular rail? I did it this on a 2 foot X frame and it bent quite a lot.
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No, seems pretty sturdy, I am using 1/8" angle iron (aluminum). Were you using 1/8" thick?
 
linky

linky

Well-Known Member
Yep, 8020 is good stuff, expensive as hell though, especially for all the connectors etc. I built my sim rig out of 80/20. I have like 16' of 1.5" 80/20 in the garage still and a bunch of random connectors/corner pieces etc.

Here is my light, all wired up! :) Now have to build the 2nd one. I ended up using hot glue over the wire going through the holes and securing it into the connectors, I have used it in the past for electrical connections and did some google searches and is good to go for kinda thing. It is working, so that is something. :)

canopy-12-2.jpg

8020-6.jpg

8020-9.jpg
 
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