Same thing I've been saying for awhile. Originally it was Green Surfer who informed me of getting by with the royal blue for frosting. But, the difference with UVB and A is that it won't effect your spectral balance as much as regular blue. Regular blue will cause a decrease in bud density when used in higher amounts. I still think UVB and A may fare better in the long haul.That would make a lot of sense. I used to think it was UVA and UVB that caused that reaction but apparently deep blue can also or possibly deep blue is always the trigger. Maybe that is the reason the LED frosting is better than HPS. The plants thinks it is getting bombarded with UV.
Do these Olson LEDs have the dual tab solder points like the cheap ol' Chinese ones? If so how are those reflowed? Do you just heat solder each side and glue the middle part that is under the emitter?Someone on IC mag pointed out to me the oslon deep red is actually more efficient than philips es deep red. I calculated the philips EX6 bin at 38.5% (700mA 50c) and the oslon 4T bin at 46% (700ma 50c). Very cool that these are coming but the downside is they are hard to source. They are sold in a group 3T4T so its a flip of the coin to get 4T. The 3T is still good 41% (700mA 50c).
LH CPDP 3T4T-1
Newark has some in stock.