DIY LED 220w Cree XTE + Philips ES

SnotBoogie

Well-Known Member
In photosynthetic tissues (such as leaves and sometimes stems), anthocyanins have been shown to act as a "sunscreen", protecting cells from high-light damage by absorbing blue-green and ultraviolet light, thereby protecting the tissues fromphotoinhibition, or high-light stress.

from wikipedia, after i looked it up :D

Wonder if this is applicable here?
 

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
That would make a lot of sense. I used to think it was UVA and UVB that caused that reaction but apparently deep blue can also or possibly deep blue is always the trigger. Maybe that is the reason the LED frosting is better than HPS. The plants thinks it is getting bombarded with UV.
 

Rrog

Well-Known Member
I'm just glad it all fired up. I have a second switch to turn on one set of WW for flower. So a little more blue for veg, and a little more red for flower.
 

Rrog

Well-Known Member
I built safety circuits including fuses, MOV's and Zeners. To be prepared for anything. That all was such an added pain in the ass, especially since the drivers do these safety functions also.

In retrospect, given that the drivers have circuit protection, I won't be doing the fuses, MOVs and Zeners again. I learned things, and that's always a good thing, but easily 50% of my time was dealing with these elements as wells as that damned box. Next time I use a metal base (platform) for attaching the drivers and the handy terminal blocks and maybe cover the blocks. Otherwise I'll leave open, with no sides and lid to the box.
 

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
For those using XTE warm white, Cutter confirmed the part number is correct. Cree shipped them XTE R3 7D2 tint (3000K).
 

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
The new XM-L2 neutral and warm whites are available for $6 (bare emitters) here are the numbers.
View attachment 2620804

They have pushed the envelope once again. The blue chips must be ~70% efficient to get these numbers. I use an XM-L T5 5000K in my headlamp and it is incredible (running it at 700-1000mA depending on how fresh the battery is). The XM-L2 T6 5000K would be 10% more efficient.
 

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
I asked specifically about the typo on the 10mm 3000ks because the listing says R2 but the part number says R3. That is the only 3000k offering with R3 in the part number so I believe only those are R3.
 

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Someone on IC mag pointed out to me the oslon deep red is actually more efficient than philips es deep red. I calculated the philips EX6 bin at 38.5% (700mA 50c) and the oslon 4T bin at 46% (700ma 50c). Very cool that these are coming but the downside is they are hard to source. They are sold in a group 3T4T so its a flip of the coin to get 4T. The 3T is still good 41% (700mA 50c).

LH CPDP 3T4T-1

Newark has some in stock.
 

green surfer

Well-Known Member
ideal spectrum is cheaper, 1,65€/p, LH CPDP 3T bin, it is 3T certified, also available the CP7P 3T SSL80 same price
 

jubiare

Active Member
Supra
Have you seen The discussion about the radiometric efficiency vs luminous efficacy of ww cree xte and oslon ss? Also the CRI factor..
I'd appreciate your opinion on that cheers
On green surfer thread
 

Fonzarelli

Active Member
That would make a lot of sense. I used to think it was UVA and UVB that caused that reaction but apparently deep blue can also or possibly deep blue is always the trigger. Maybe that is the reason the LED frosting is better than HPS. The plants thinks it is getting bombarded with UV.
Same thing I've been saying for awhile. Originally it was Green Surfer who informed me of getting by with the royal blue for frosting. But, the difference with UVB and A is that it won't effect your spectral balance as much as regular blue. Regular blue will cause a decrease in bud density when used in higher amounts. I still think UVB and A may fare better in the long haul.
 

Fonzarelli

Active Member
Someone on IC mag pointed out to me the oslon deep red is actually more efficient than philips es deep red. I calculated the philips EX6 bin at 38.5% (700mA 50c) and the oslon 4T bin at 46% (700ma 50c). Very cool that these are coming but the downside is they are hard to source. They are sold in a group 3T4T so its a flip of the coin to get 4T. The 3T is still good 41% (700mA 50c).

LH CPDP 3T4T-1

Newark has some in stock.
Do these Olson LEDs have the dual tab solder points like the cheap ol' Chinese ones? If so how are those reflowed? Do you just heat solder each side and glue the middle part that is under the emitter?
 
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