DIY LED 220w Cree XTE + Philips ES
- Thread starter SupraSPL
- Start date
SnotBoogie
Well-Known Member
In photosynthetic tissues (such as leaves and sometimes stems), anthocyanins have been shown to act as a "sunscreen", protecting cells from high-light damage by absorbing blue-green and ultraviolet light, thereby protecting the tissues fromphotoinhibition, or high-light stress.
from wikipedia, after i looked it up
Wonder if this is applicable here?
from wikipedia, after i looked it up
Wonder if this is applicable here?
SupraSPL
Well-Known Member
That would make a lot of sense. I used to think it was UVA and UVB that caused that reaction but apparently deep blue can also or possibly deep blue is always the trigger. Maybe that is the reason the LED frosting is better than HPS. The plants thinks it is getting bombarded with UV.
Rrog
Well-Known Member
SnotBoogie
Well-Known Member
Ahhh, i see you already have tissues ready for me.... Nice build Rrog!
green surfer
Well-Known Member
congrats Rrog, looks great!
Rrog
Well-Known Member
I built safety circuits including fuses, MOV's and Zeners. To be prepared for anything. That all was such an added pain in the ass, especially since the drivers do these safety functions also.
In retrospect, given that the drivers have circuit protection, I won't be doing the fuses, MOVs and Zeners again. I learned things, and that's always a good thing, but easily 50% of my time was dealing with these elements as wells as that damned box. Next time I use a metal base (platform) for attaching the drivers and the handy terminal blocks and maybe cover the blocks. Otherwise I'll leave open, with no sides and lid to the box.
In retrospect, given that the drivers have circuit protection, I won't be doing the fuses, MOVs and Zeners again. I learned things, and that's always a good thing, but easily 50% of my time was dealing with these elements as wells as that damned box. Next time I use a metal base (platform) for attaching the drivers and the handy terminal blocks and maybe cover the blocks. Otherwise I'll leave open, with no sides and lid to the box.
SupraSPL
Well-Known Member
The new XM-L2 neutral and warm whites are available for $6 (bare emitters) here are the numbers.
View attachment 2620804
They have pushed the envelope once again. The blue chips must be ~70% efficient to get these numbers. I use an XM-L T5 5000K in my headlamp and it is incredible (running it at 700-1000mA depending on how fresh the battery is). The XM-L2 T6 5000K would be 10% more efficient.
View attachment 2620804
They have pushed the envelope once again. The blue chips must be ~70% efficient to get these numbers. I use an XM-L T5 5000K in my headlamp and it is incredible (running it at 700-1000mA depending on how fresh the battery is). The XM-L2 T6 5000K would be 10% more efficient.
green surfer
Well-Known Member
only those who bought 10mm stars WW 7 tint or it is true for cuts too?
SnotBoogie
Well-Known Member
Good to know, thanks supra.
When mine (10mil stars) arrived they were labelled WW R3 7C (by hand)
When mine (10mil stars) arrived they were labelled WW R3 7C (by hand)
SupraSPL
Well-Known Member
Someone on IC mag pointed out to me the oslon deep red is actually more efficient than philips es deep red. I calculated the philips EX6 bin at 38.5% (700mA 50c) and the oslon 4T bin at 46% (700ma 50c). Very cool that these are coming but the downside is they are hard to source. They are sold in a group 3T4T so its a flip of the coin to get 4T. The 3T is still good 41% (700mA 50c).
LH CPDP 3T4T-1
Newark has some in stock.
LH CPDP 3T4T-1
Newark has some in stock.
SnotBoogie
Well-Known Member
green surfer
Well-Known Member
ideal spectrum is cheaper, 1,65€/p, LH CPDP 3T bin, it is 3T certified, also available the CP7P 3T SSL80 same price
Fonzarelli
Active Member
Same thing I've been saying for awhile. Originally it was Green Surfer who informed me of getting by with the royal blue for frosting. But, the difference with UVB and A is that it won't effect your spectral balance as much as regular blue. Regular blue will cause a decrease in bud density when used in higher amounts. I still think UVB and A may fare better in the long haul.
Fonzarelli
Active Member
Do these Olson LEDs have the dual tab solder points like the cheap ol' Chinese ones? If so how are those reflowed? Do you just heat solder each side and glue the middle part that is under the emitter?
