1st a Very Nice thread - special thanks to Supra and Mr. Flux and many others for the invaluable information!
I'm located in SEA and have been given the following offer from Arrow Asia:
CXB3070-0000-000N0HAD30H @ $31.5/pcs SPQ/MOQ 100pcs
CXB3070-0000-000N0HAD30G @ $27/pcs SPQ/MOQ 100pcs
CXB3070-0000-000N0HAB30H @ $27.5/pcs SPQ/MOQ 100pcs
CXB3070-0000-000N0HAB30G @ $23/pcs SPQ/MOQ 100pcs
Buying 100 of these babies is, however, a very large expense for me and the people at Arrow Asia aren't as knowledgeable as you guys, since they don't use them to grow with.
Of the above, they're all 3000K and I was planning on the AD30G bin, as it is 80 CRI and has a high luminous flux. I would be using these almost exclusively for flowering.
I would test run at both 1000mA and 1600-2000mA and since 100 is 80 more than I need, I would be selling the rest once build. The people I'd sell them to, would not run them cold, but at the 1600-2000mA, where I would try both.
The question then is basically just if it's the right purchase for us, which I'm more or less sure it is...
I did some "testing".....I had one 3070 5000K in a propagator, without a fan so just using the heatsink of the alpine (needed asap some light for a week or so). Running @1.4A (50 watts) the top layer of the led broke but it still works. Temperature in the propagator was about 22 degrees.Unfortunately not very much, to get optimal junction temps. The space between fins is small and the height of the fins is high. So with even a very slight pressure differential the heatsink works amazingly, but with nothing but convection, it acts like a solid lump or very little surface area.
That said, in the case of a short term fan failure, its cooling ability will improve because as the temp of the heatsink rises, its efficiency increases due to the large differential between the heatsink temp and the ambient temp.
I did some testing, with a CXA3070 at 50W on Alpine 11 passive cooled, the heatsink quickly reached 57C and I stopped the test. The COB may have survived if the temp stabilized low enough, but I guess I was not willing to potentially bust one to find out. At 25W it reached 53C and I believe the COB would survive no problem.
Are you bloody friggin' serious there mate ???Just hit 1.7 grams per watt with CXA3070 Z4 3000k's at 1400 ma.
Did you grew a rock or something?Just hit 1.7 grams per watt with CXA3070 Z4 3000k's at 1400 ma.
9 PAR W/ft² = 449 PPFD (minus reflector/lens/wall losses) Yes based on that I would add more to make sure you are avoiding larf (leafy/fluffy) in the mid branches, especially with certain varieties.Supra (or anyone), please help me out. So I built my LED but I have no clue as to PAR, well maybe.
Meanwell 185-1400 pushing 4 CXB3070 @ 1.4amp, 36v. Efficiency is 45.43% on AB bin.
200w X .4543 = 90.86 / 10sq ft = 9.086 PAR w/sq ft??? Just tryin to figure it out. Everyone seems to say that 14-16 is optimal yeah? Guess Ill need 1 more 200w light?
??? No... I have 9 PAR watt per sq. ft. I have a total of almost 91 PAR watts with 4. CXA are not as efficient.So with 2x CXA 3070 AB's @ 1.4 i've only 4.5PAR/ w?
I am in direct competition with your, sirJust hit 1.7 grams per watt with CXA3070 Z4 3000k's at 1400 ma.