DiY LED - Cree CXA3070

CannaBare

Well-Known Member
Did you end up doing a mass order bruv?
Tried and it did not go through. They quoted me at 34.20 first so I jumped on it and later they refunded. So I think something happened with pricing or something since I thought that was a steal. Decided the 3070 300k would do it and bought 20 from arrow. They haven't arrived yet. I Think they could actually be the Z4 group because arrow has them mislabeled!! I'll only be using 16 though. And I'll have 4 extra 1600mA drivers. :)

I'll post pics of the design when I finish!
 

Chronikool

Well-Known Member
Thats a pity...but its all good in the end... :)

Not familar with the arrow website..do you have the address please? i need a 5000k 3070, a 3500k 3070 and a 3000k 3070....another design in the workz....shit never endz... :)
 

tightpockt

Well-Known Member
I've been reading this thread for a full hour and still have no idea what any of this means. Can someone break this down in English for me?



You have two different efficiencies listed for the cxa 3070 in post 54 and 59.

Which one is your correct estimation based on your extrapolation?

I ask because I am ready to order my modules. If the efficiency is really that high at 350 ma I will run 32 on meanwell hlg .7s (.35 to .77 adjustable). If it is only marginally better as per the first excel capture, then I will run 20 modules on meanwell hlg 1.05s (.525 to 1.07 adjustable). I already have a pretty big gain in efficiency using the hlgs at 92%+, vs individual drivers at about 85%. I think given this I can lose a couple % from the COBs and keep the BOM down.

Still haven't dialed in the ratio, but will likely be 6:2 at .7 (4 groups of 8) or 4:1 at 1.05 (4 groups of 5).

Appreciate it!
 

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Yessr I missed my chance at the Z4s the first time they around but got it the second time.

Ladies are looking good. Here is the Ace of Spades at 49 days, spent the entire time directly under CXA3070 3000K Z2s. This pic is only showing 1/3 of the plant. I will get more pics up when the rest finish up.


 

Positivity

Well-Known Member
I noticed that too with the reflector adapter. Too bad they didn't make it twist/snap in...not looking forward to tapping 4 holes per
 

captainmorgan

Well-Known Member
I noticed that too with the reflector adapter. Too bad they didn't make it twist/snap in...not looking forward to tapping 4 holes per
Yea the COB holder is made by Ideal and the reflector and adapter are made by another company to fit over the COB holder.

On a side note,I just had a monster storm roll through with 50 MPH winds and leave this hail behind.
 

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I've been reading this thread for a full hour and still have no idea what any of this means. Can someone break this down in English for me?
That was one of my posts. I was inquiring into the estimated efficiency of the cxa 3070 COBs at various input currents in order to finalize that aspect of my design.

The meanwells in question are the hlg-185h-c700 or hlg-185h-c1050. Except for the high voltage that they output (up to 430V on some models, yikes!), they are the best drivers out there for these COBs. The ones I mentioned can run 8 and 5 COBs, respectively, with unsurpassed reliability and efficiency.

The ratios mentioned are the 3000K to 5000K ratios I was considering. Using the 3000k alone is kind of short on blue, but the 5000K available is the lowest bin. Basically I decided to forget the 5000K and the idea of running 6:2 or 4:1 3000k:5000k

However, I would strongly advise anyone from using these unless they had electronics experience and implemented multiple fail safes in the system, as a shock from one of these could potentially trigger fibrillation. !!IE you could very well die if you mishandled these under the right set of conditions!!

If anyone is to go this route with high voltage HLG C series drivers I would recommend the smaller / higher current ones which operate to a max of ~143V.

Be safe!
 

tightpockt

Well-Known Member
I guess more of what I was asking is can someone point me in the way of a quality primer to read so I can understand all of the jargon and terms used. I can't wrap my head around the concept because I don't understand what you guys are talking about i.e. I don't know what forward voltage means and what all the talk about efficiency is...among many other things.

I'm not being lazy about it. I've done a ton of reading but I still can't find anything that sinks in.

if someone could be so kind as to send me a link or explain this process to me I would be very grateful
 

CannaBare

Well-Known Member
I guess more of what I was asking is can someone point me in the way of a quality primer to read so I can understand all of the jargon and terms used. I can't wrap my head around the concept because I don't understand what you guys are talking about i.e. I don't know what forward voltage means and what all the talk about efficiency is...among many other things.

I'm not being lazy about it. I've done a ton of reading but I still can't find anything that sinks in.

if someone could be so kind as to send me a link or explain this process to me I would be very grateful
A great way to start is to learn why an LED needs a constant current power supply. Then try to deciper a datasheet and you will pretty much know what you need to know.
This datasheet is for the cxa3070. which is a part number.
 

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tightpockt

Well-Known Member
A great way to start is to learn why an LED needs a constant current power supply. Then try to deciper a datasheet and you will pretty much know what you need to know.
This datasheet is for the cxa3070. which is a part number.
Ok..so forward voltage is the least amount of power needed for the diode to produce light?
What do you guys mean when you say efficiency and why is it important?
if you pump in more power does it get brighter? Is so why is that bad?
I understand it creates more heat and that reduces the life span of the LED but even if it cuts it in half that still 20,000 hours!
 
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