DiY LED - Cree CXA3070

Java if I understand correctly those are constant voltage? So at 1.45A the CXA3070 is about 37.5vF. The specs say "constant current region" 25-42V and "voltage adj" 40-46V. Would that work for our 3070s?

The 1.7A version says "constant current region 21-36V" and "voltage adj" 33-40V. Would that work also?

The eBay seller with the bunk 1.4A drivers offered me a $35 refund and I paid $78. Raw deal, I say let eBay handle them and don't end up like me LOL.

SupraSPL said:

Java if I understand correctly those are constant voltage? So at 1.45A the CXA3070 is about 37.5vF. The specs say "constant current region" 25-42V and "voltage adj" 40-46V. Would that work for our 3070s?

The 1.7A version says "constant current region 21-36V" and "voltage adj" 33-40V. Would that work also?

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It should work The adjustable voltage is only for the A version. I believe all it does is set the highest output voltage. The B version is set @ 42 volts no adjustment but the A you can adjust that between 40 and 46 volts. But yeah it is a bit confusing of a data sheet. Threw me for a loop when i was first learning LED and drivers. I could still be wrong but the data sheet talks about it being a CC driver except for the A versions little bit of voltage adjustment.

Yeah they offered me 25 bucks back on my 34 dollar order. I said ok , they still have not refunded my 25. Sent another message saying where is my cash thought we had a deal. They say their records show it was refunded. So their record keeping is about as good as their so called test equipment.

JavaCo said:

It should work The adjustable voltage is only for the A version. I believe all it does is set the highest output voltage. The B version is set @ 42 volts no adjustment but the A you can adjust that between 40 and 46 volts.

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Wait are you guys saying that the A version will work but the B won't, is there no voltage adjustment on the B version?

SupraSPL said:

Java if I understand correctly those are constant voltage? So at 1.45A the CXA3070 is about 37.5vF. The specs say "constant current region" 25-42V and "voltage adj" 40-46V. Would that work for our 3070s?

The 1.7A version says "constant current region 21-36V" and "voltage adj" 33-40V. Would that work also?

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The HLG version I asked about earlier says the same thing and you said that would work.

Edit: After re-reading what java posted I realized I had read it wrong, it must be the fresh Blue Cheese Bubble Hash

I had already ordered the HLN-60H-42b and now I am confused,

So the spec sheet states for the 42A version has adjustable voltage from 40-46v with internal pot, so does that mean the B version automatically adjusted between 25.2-42v.

CONSTANT CURRENT REGION Note.4 25.2 ~ 42V

Note 4. Please refer to "DRIVING METHODS OF LED MODULE".

"Mean Well's LED power supply with CV+ CC characteristic can be operated at both CV mode (with LED driver, at area (A) and CC mode (direct drive, at area (B)."

These spec sheets can confuse me, but I think these drivers should work and I hope they do because I don't have anything else I can use them with. I'll report back when I get them.

The data sheet is saying the B is a CC driver you should be good. Now i am not sure about the A they really dont explain it very well. Maybe someone that has hooked one of the A's up before will chime in and set us straight.

Did some digging and here is a link to a lighting forum where i guy asked how to set a A version of a meanwell cgl-150 series. up http://budgetlightforum.com/node/29155 . If the Texas Guy is correct what i said earlier is correct all the V adjust does is set the Max voltage output. The Voltage will be variable between around 25 volts to what ever you set the max to. Unless that guy is as wrong as me.

This is how he explains it
"
The way these usually work is the voltage setting sets the max voltage it will output. The current setting sets the max current. Whatever limit the supply sees is what it will run at.

You want the current to be the controlling variable. Setting the voltage higher than what the LED wants means that the current setting will kick in first. If you set the voltage too low, you won’t get full current to the LED. You could set the voltage way higher than the LED Vf as long as the current is set properly. Setting the voltage a little higher than the LED Vf provides some protection against faults. "

Fan mod to the driver board that me and Supe collaborated on. I even DIY'd a few fan spade adaptors myself (he made the fan power splitter cable though). It works great.

Nice mod, those drivers run HOT to the touch. Burn your fingers after they have been running for a few hours if you keep your hand on one too long.

Thanks. The driver closest to the fan is downright cool, and they get progressively hotter as you go down the row. It cools the first 5 pretty well. We'll see if I can still leave my hand on the farthest one (10th) after they've been running for a few more hours, I could earlier.

We've ordered some 2 Amp power supplies for the fan circuit, which will either allow more juice to the fans, or another pair of these 140mm at the other end of the board, or maybe even both. I already feel better about not cooking the drivers though.

epicfail said:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/181399694068?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

I am noticing those are no longer available and buddy hasn't relisted them, what other options do we have in the 50w pf corrected category? maybe dimmable

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Sorry, I bought all what they had left.

JavaCo said:

You want the current to be the controlling variable. Setting the voltage higher than what the LED wants means that the current setting will kick in first. If you set the voltage too low, you won’t get full current to the LED. You could set the voltage way higher than the LED Vf as long as the current is set properly. Setting the voltage a little higher than the LED Vf provides some protection against faults. "

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This makes sense. So the question is, what happens if the vF of the COB is below the lower limit of the voltage setting. The driver could go into a limping mode or it might be just fine, having a "loose" range on the low side.

Nice job CW! Worst case scenario if the drivers are still smoking hot, we could mount the fans in front of the board so they are blowing directly at it. That will cool them for sure, but it might be a bit awkward depending on where the driver board is hanging in your space.

LOL @ Happy, I warned the seller that they were going to be very popular.

Hey Supe, I was thinking that too. Maybe I could mount them with galvanized wire somehow to point at the board, I'll get some wire.

Sometimes you can find spools of it in the hardware section of Walmart, if not I also saw it at Lowes.

CaliWorthington said:

Hey Supe, I was thinking that too. Maybe I could mount them with galvanized wire somehow to point at the board, I'll get some wire.

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You could also bend some coat hanger into a sort of "U" shape and screw it to the board. I bent one to show you.
Just attach the fan to the hanger with zap straps or twist ties.

happy75 said:

Sorry, I bought all what they had left.

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Well...just got confirmation. They have only 10 drivers left in stead of 43. Bummer.

Didn't know if you've seen this yet,Cree XP-E in what they call Photo Red 650-670 nm.

http://www.cree.com/LED-Components-and-Modules/Products/XLamp/Discrete-Directional/XLamp-XPE

happy75 said:

Well...just got confirmation. They have only 10 drivers left in stead of 43. Bummer.

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I could use about 20 of them right now.

They should be back in stock in ~45 days but hopefully sooner.