DIY LED REVOLUTION/EVOLUTION! INTRODUCING MEvo

Rasser

Rasser

Active Member
Now I'm thinking, 12V switch-mode power supply's come very cheap and in abundance ,
so why not add those to a series string with a single CC driver to limit the current, and a fuse if the hole thing blows.
Right now I can't see why it shouldn't work, If you are willing to work with 100V or more.



Edit: Old 19V laptop psu or any DC 1A+ psu would do, so long you stay within the CCdriver voltage range.
 
420greendream

420greendream

Well-Known Member
im not trying to spend top dollar but at the same time i dont want chinese bullshit. what is osram? and do they have good products?

also i have no idea what all that current electricity talk means. im not the one who knows stuff about electrical thats my buddy haha. do you think 10 drivers per light would do it?

oh and these lights will ONLY be used for flower so what is a good ratio of red:white? i think i read somewhere its 5:1 but im not sure.
 
PetFlora

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
Rasser said:
Now I'm thinking, 12V switch-mode power supply's come very cheap and in abundance ,
so why not add those to a series string with a single CC driver to limit the current, and a fuse if the hole thing blows.
Right now I can't see why it shouldn't work, If you are willing to work with 100V or more.





Edit: Old 19V laptop psu or any DC 1A+ psu would do, so long you stay within the CCdriver voltage range.
Click to expand...
Just read a switch mode ps article on Electronic Products website. Resultant electricity is very rough (clipped). Unless it is filtered to become a smooth sign wave, it can damage the electronics, which I would imagine includes the diodes. There ac and dc devices to correct
 
jubiare

jubiare

Active Member
DAY 19
IMG_20120621_192033.jpg





Hi Guys

the girls are still like a week behind? but they are perking up, just today they started to! Hope this is only the beginning..
Transplanted yesterday in slightly bigger pots, this time 70Coco/30Perlite
Given yesterday first feed of proper nutes, at 2/5 of suggested max dose.... plus a drop or two of superthrive

You see that black mat at the bottom? wet capillary mat for adding humidity in the area, cheap but not bad.


Last thing I have done was a spray of phyt-amin by Plagron, cant attribute the perking up to that, I don't think so ... more a combination of things, stabler temps/RH etc?
IMG_20120621_192429.jpg



Here is what should be mg def? Older leaves only affected, only on one plant. Funny thing I have sprayed it with epson salts for three days now, it's still there? What do you guys say?EDIT: Actually this is more like POTASSIUM (K) DEF, WHAT DO U SAY?
IMG_20120621_135522.jpg

All in all I am really scared this round; Not the greatest start.. failed last grow, sick plants am still gonna harvest some undeveloped flowers but!!
Scared of phytium pathogens and spider mites things like that
I also got the seeds again from same vendor as last time, so am paranoid really

I have inoculated the little ones from the start, am gonna do that each and every week with:

Myco fungi
Trichoderma
bacillus bacteria + other 19 and other fungi
EWC
mOLASSES
all brewed for a few days in a bucket with bubbles

18/6 since two days ago
Temps 75/80
RH 55/62
34w of power

Take care everyone
THANK U
 
jubiare

jubiare

Active Member
420greendream said:
im not trying to spend top dollar but at the same time i dont want chinese bullshit. what is osram? and do they have good products?

also i have no idea what all that current electricity talk means. im not the one who knows stuff about electrical thats my buddy haha. do you think 10 drivers per light would do it?

oh and these lights will ONLY be used for flower so what is a good ratio of red:white? i think i read somewhere its 5:1 but im not sure.
Click to expand...
is there any chance your electro friend could pop by? Calculations need to be done.. cant just calculate like this....Osram is Osram Golden Dragon plus, good stuff, practical to handle and good performance/price
 
Rasser

Rasser

Active Member
PetFlora said:
Just read a switch mode ps article on Electronic Products website. Resultant electricity is very rough (clipped). Unless it is filtered to become a smooth sign wave, it can damage the electronics, which I would imagine includes the diodes. There ac and dc devices to correct
Click to expand...
You are mixing things up a bit, A DC power supply, supply DC not pulsed DC or a smooth sine wave,
normally if you start drawing maximum current the capacitor can't keep enough charge between the peaks
to supply the load and what is called a ripple voltage happens, witch creates hum when using a 50Hz underpowered PSU connected to a stereo,
(switch mode PSU run at 20+ Khz to get better efficiency and to avoid being audible with a high pitch sound, but it's still audible on cheap SW-PSU's
I have to turn the power totally off to my laptop PSU when i goto sleep or I can hear it's high pitch sound)

Right now if I look in my cam's viewfinder the light from my LED grow light is flashing a bit just like a HPS running at 50Hz do,
so either they are runner without capacitors or they are saturated and it's the ripple voltage I'm seeing.

My Crappy SW-PSU comment was more directed at the PSU being cheap for the user, a leftover PSU from a laptop,
and crappy vs the expensive CCDriver.

So I got no worries about using PSU's that already has run on electronic equipment or some flickering lights.
 
PSUAGRO.

PSUAGRO.

Well-Known Member
Your girls look fine Jubiare...........to early for defs/ but not for nute burn........go easy on the ferts at this stage, i would just use water or go with a very conservative amount..........youll be fine/ don't stress yet.......:)
 
jubiare

jubiare

Active Member
thanks Bro, yes but my medium is inert so I start feeding formulex at second set of leaves and normal ferts at end of two weeks ... this strain seems to be wanting nutes more than the last one at this stage (it's a cross of super skunk and white widow) .... ok I'll try not to stress, but I am being really apprehensive :o
 
PSUAGRO.

PSUAGRO.

Well-Known Member
Ah that's right your straight cocco/perlite........well then just be careful :P...........were are all apprehensive when trying new panels ha, you'll get it down, oh btw I definitely have fungus gnats, I can't believe it/ they are always in my life:)
 
Rasser

Rasser

Active Member
jubiare said:
it's the narrow degree angle that is a myth, dictated by the poor efficiency of the Chinese diodes. 170degree angle is good for up to two feet plants .... nucleus has his array very high and not close (you see the results in post above).
Having said that, narrower angle should be better for higher plants .... but to be all honest with you I am already planning side lighting LED arrays for that. The beauty of LEDs is that you can mount them vertically/horizontally or something
Well in all honestly some advanced diyers prefer 120degree angle by cree for example
peace to the patients (by cocojoe)
Click to expand...
Yes the LED's flexibility is phenomenal, and the reuse abilities are huge, two thing I value highly.

I'm looking into making a kind of pillar out of extruded square aluminum tube to place in the center of four blooming plants,
rotated 45° and with some LED's at the top with a lens on and it should give the bud a good blast from side.

I thought about these 3x3W 660nm modules on e-bay LINK



or maybe this:
DIY 6 x 3W RED LED 650nm-660nm Plant Glow Light w/Driver 12V-24VDC Input




But then I was thinking do I need the lenses or should I just buy some star PCB's
so I did a quick PAR meter test on the LumiLED's, one LED with a ~30° lens on and the other without ~170°



Same distance.




No doubt, with the distance from the center to the bud 30° as these DIY modules have, should be perfect.
 
jubiare

jubiare

Active Member
Rasser, you need a spectroradiometer for proper testing actual photons of diodes, so you could also check on those ebay emitters you are looking at ... as eraserhead already said in an other thread, you want to test those chinese ones to see what you are getting .... or just be lucky or unlucky I guess.

I would personally avoid stars with more emitters close together, that is what commercially you chose to do because of costs, practicability etc.

You want to hit the plant from many different point for good results and saturation, that's why I am weary of leds with just single high power hitting point. Well they are still cool and good, but I believe you should be able to do better with 1/3/5 watters

But you pack them all close together and you waist some potential efficiency in my view.(well knna's view). with good emitters, you archive better and larger coverage spacing them apart. You really don't need them too close; Plus, spacing them apart it's better for their heat dissipation, so you don't have to rely on fans.
 
PetFlora

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
This copied from SX on another site. It suggests that you don't need more than ~5% 660

As one can see, the CREE Neutral White (I call it 'Goldilocks', because it's almost 'just right'
) has a RSPD that still allows nearly ~25% of its total power in the blue range (and plants only really 'need' ~8-10%), and more that 1/3 of which (i.e. the area under the curve) is over ~580nm or so (which has a Photosynthetic RS of over 90%!) - which is much better than even your typical 'Enhanced HPS'.

Couple that with strong white light (green-response chlorophyll extending throughout and deep into leaf structures, with a net effect at or near that of the (mostly) surface-level blue and reds), which also takes care of most of the ~660nm+ you actually need for photomorphogenesis - and you can get by with 630nm reds just fine.

(i.e. 630nm red is ~95% of the PSR of 660nm, AND they currently still have ~20-30% greater radiometric efficiency - as well as being cheaper than the deep reds - so there's more 'bang for the buck'):
 
Rasser

Rasser

Active Member
jubiare said:
Rasser, you need a spectroradiometer for proper testing actual photons of diodes, so you could also check on those ebay emitters you are looking at ... as eraserhead already said in an other thread, you want to test those chinese ones to see what you are getting .... or just be lucky or unlucky I guess.

I would personally avoid stars with more emitters close together, that is what commercially you chose to do because of costs, practicability etc.

You want to hit the plant from many different point for good results and saturation, that's why I am weary of leds with just single high power hitting point. Well they are still cool and good, but I believe you should be able to do better with 1/3/5 watters

But you pack them all close together and you waist some potential efficiency in my view.(well knna's view). with good emitters, you archive better and larger coverage spacing them apart. You really don't need them too close; Plus, spacing them apart it's better for their heat dissipation, so you don't have to rely on fans.
Click to expand...
Hi.

If I search for 'spectroradiometer' and look at what the instruments are measuring then they seam to be measuring the same as my PAR meter uMol m-2 s-1,
okay my PAR meter's sensitivity spectrum is not the best, and particularly in the blue area, but I can't see why I shouldn't be able to use it for comparing two LED's.

What I'm worried about with these modules is getting 1W LED's and not 3W
for the LED chip looks a bit small I think:




I agree, but I'll have to admit that add on light as the Kessil150 type and the 100W floodlight Gastanker has build is very attractive,
vs using many smaller LED's spread out, but I don't see this as a one or the other, it's properly a combination that work best
when balancing all the factors including the laziness of the caretaker :-)
 
420greendream

420greendream

Well-Known Member
hey so im sitting here smoking a blunt and thinking about my light. and i was thinking....why have 100 emitters? what if there was a super big led bulb...kinda like a hps light bulb, then it can be put on a reflector and kick ass. if thats possible and if you know enough about electronics to build the first one, thats a million dollar idea. bet. and when u make millions dont forget about your buddy 420greendream! :blsmoke: stay smooth yall
 
jubiare

jubiare

Active Member
IMG_20120626_114633.jpg

Growth rate is better I'd say! All looks okay so far .. they were watered yesterday, it's coming up like once every 4/5 days! They should have their bennies tea .. not sure when to do that as they are only drinking every 4/5 days? Thanks for stopping by
 
P

patrikantonius

Active Member
PetFlora said:
PSR of 660nm, AND they currently still have ~20-30% greater radiometric efficiency - as well as being cheaper than the deep reds - so there's more 'bang for the buck'):
Click to expand...
What ?

According to these charts:
http://led-growing.de/forum/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=69
(Table headers:
manufacturer/model/luminous output/radiant output/voltage/current/power/efficiency)
Click to expand...
most 660nm LEDs have better radiometric efficiency than their 630nm siblings

I did the math myself for the Cree XP-E 625nm and everything checks out.
 
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