DiY LEDs - How to Power Them

GrOwThMoNgeR

GrOwThMoNgeR

Well-Known Member
GrOwThMoNgeR said:
It's a Strühm Kroma LED 100w 4500k. It really blasts the leds so my idea is if I cannot modify it to lower current I could put a cpu heatsink with water-cooling if necessary, but I don't believe the life is long on the leds then. I found a brand that has 30w cobs (replacement cobs are 7eur so decent price) in it but I would need to order a 36v ps to run them and it's tricky in these parts. I would like to wire what I have available to be more resourceful and economical. Is it possible to mod these security lights or should I return it and get something shitty to keep my tomatoes alive because I stole their led for another tent.

The light already has a wire coming from the device pos/neg/ground, and I wired it as they instructed at the hardware store straight into a power source (maybe terrible advice?) and it gets very hot, far far too hot to touch and the exhaust is straight above it but still I worry.

I have light turning on for short intervals 12 min and it gets hella hot but then it shuts off for the same amount of time. Essentially worried about fire. But it hasn't reached hotter than 100c on the top of the heatsink.

I have an old magnetic ballast that also runs hella hot but doesn't burn and ppl all over the world use them, so these led security lights, are they a no-no? Am I making a noob mistake attempting this? I used to live in a place impossible to get parts and we used to cannibalize and build lights from outdoor security lights (hps/mh), this light I was thinking would be in the same spirit.
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IMG_20210115_000513.jpg
 
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Sinfor

Well-Known Member
GrOwThMoNgeR said:
It's a Strühm Kroma LED 100w 4500k. It really blasts the leds so my idea is if I cannot modify it to lower current I could put a cpu heatsink with water-cooling if necessary, but I don't believe the life is long on the leds then. I found a brand that has 30w cobs (replacement cobs are 7eur so decent price) in it but I would need to order a 36v ps to run them and it's tricky in these parts. I would like to wire what I have available to be more resourceful and economical. Is it possible to mod these security lights or should I return it and get something shitty to keep my tomatoes alive because I stole their led for another tent.

The light already has a wire coming from the device pos/neg/ground, and I wired it as they instructed at the hardware store straight into a power source (maybe terrible advice?) and it gets very hot, far far too hot to touch and the exhaust is straight above it but still I worry.

I have light turning on for short intervals 12 min and it gets hella hot but then it shuts off for the same amount of time. Essentially worried about fire. But it hasn't reached hotter than 100c on the top of the heatsink.

I have an old magnetic ballast that also runs hella hot but doesn't burn and ppl all over the world use them, so these led security lights, are they a no-no? Am I making a noob mistake attempting this? I used to live in a place impossible to get parts and we used to cannibalize and build lights from outdoor security lights (hps/mh), this light I was thinking would be in the same spirit.
Click to expand...
Those lights are non intended to be used in indoors or for long periods of time.
I have seen those lights driven with a CC driver and others with a built-in driver like this
Screenshot_20210116-194238_01.png

The proyector that uses a CC driver can be dimmed only with PWM dimmer and the result isn't granted. The built-in driver can be dimmed with an inductive dimmer if the IC used is a linear led driver.
If your light comes with a CC driver i would buy another one and connect the boards in parallel to one driver to half the power in each board. You said can get a COB so probably you can use the spare driver and build another light.
A 100W light like your gets warmer than the ballast cause this one only disipate its power loss while your light disipates the driver power loss plus the heat produced by the LEDs.
 
GrOwThMoNgeR

GrOwThMoNgeR

Well-Known Member
Sinfor said:
Those lights are non intended to be used in indoors or for long periods of time.
I have seen those lights driven with a CC driver and others with a built-in driver like this
View attachment 4799098

The proyector that uses a CC driver can be dimmed only with PWM dimmer and the result isn't granted. The built-in driver can be dimmed with an inductive dimmer if the IC used is a linear led driver.
If your light comes with a CC driver i would buy another one and connect the boards in parallel to one driver to half the power in each board. You said can get a COB so probably you can use the spare driver and build another light.
A 100W light like your gets warmer than the ballast cause this one only disipate its power loss while your light disipates the driver power loss plus the heat produced by the LEDs.
Click to expand...
Thank you for the detailed reply.
 
Southernontariogrower

Southernontariogrower

Well-Known Member
get a fan blowing directly on that thing, is it a self driving cob? Rapid led has a 100w cob so does Optic led, Timber and HLG qb line is real good qb88 is smallest and around a 100 bucks ish. There is four reputable companies to check out for diy. Hope you find what you are looking for.
 
Pmurp

Pmurp

Well-Known Member
Not sure if this is the right place to ask, but any advice is welcomed.
New grower looking to update current light to HLG QB96 elite V2. But not sure about which driver I should be using. I’d like to make it dimmable since my space is limited. Not sure if the HLG-80H-54a would do the trick? Once again, complete noob.
 
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Sinfor

Well-Known Member
Pmurp said:
Not sure if this is the right place to ask, but any advice is welcomed.
New grower looking to update current light to HLG QB96 elite V2. But not sure about which driver I should be using. I’d like to make it dimmable since my space is limited. Not sure if the HLG-80H-54a would do the trick? Once again, complete noob.
Click to expand...
Screenshot_20210226-102920_01.png
B or AB type with a 100k linear potentiometer much better and practical for dimming.
 
TravisG13

TravisG13

Well-Known Member
Hey guys, I want to power 5 of these on their own, the strips themselves say 700mA but the data sheet says nominal 960mA with typical forward voltage of 20.3V.
20211111_203053.jpg
20211111_203104.jpg
Screenshot_20211111-202941_Samsung Notes.jpg
So do I want to wire them all parallel with a current supply that will produce 3.5A to 4.8A and doesn't go far above 20.3V or do I want to wire them all in series with a voltage supply around 101.5V and a variable current supply of at least 960ma?

Been a while since I shopped for one.
 
synthox

synthox

Active Member
I am looking to power two QB288 V2 Rspec boards with the following driver. Is the power cord pictured adequate for the task?

Driver.png

If the plug is adequate, my next question is, how should I wire it? Left is the plug right is the driver.

Wire.png
 
synthox

synthox

Active Member
Boatguy said:
Just make sure you back up those wire nuts, so you arent relying on them for strength. Fold the cord back on itself or something and zip tie or tape them together. Dont want live wires danging about.
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I was planning on folding them back and using a generous amount of electrical tape. Thank you for your help!
 
C

clipper270

Member
Hi guys, sorry for my bad english. I'm looking for a driver, if possible dimmable, for 10 CREE XP-E LEDs. Characteristics : maximum forward current (DC): 1000ma , forward voltage (DC) (@ 350mA): typical: 2.1V , forward voltage (DC) (@ 700mA): typical: 2.3V. I want to connect all ten LEDs in series to add some red to my light, thanks
 
Boatguy

Boatguy

Well-Known Member
You should start here, at the beginning

DiY LEDs - How to Power Them

There are many ways to design a DIY LED but here are the details of the wiring for constant current drivers. If you have no experience working with 120V wiring you should understand that it can be dangerous under certain conditions and you should study and gain a thorough understanding of the...
www.rollitup.org

I find it easier, to figure out a ballpark of what i want in watts. Look for a driver that provides the current i am looking for, then see whats available in the voltage range that gets me in the ballpark. Sometimes its easier to add a diode or two, to match a driver, than to find the perfect driver for a set amount.
 
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jarvild

jarvild

Well-Known Member
clipper270 said:
Hi guys, sorry for my bad english. I'm looking for a driver, if possible dimmable, for 10 CREE XP-E LEDs. Characteristics : maximum forward current (DC): 1000ma , forward voltage (DC) (@ 350mA): typical: 2.1V , forward voltage (DC) (@ 700mA): typical: 2.3V. I want to connect all ten LEDs in series to add some red to my light, thanks
Click to expand...
https://www.ledsupply.com/led-drivers/mean-well-apc-constant-current-led-driver?gclid=Cj0KCQiAuP-OBhDqARIsAD4XHpeDAM14GewDkBMWFEWlBc0mC_jRNNBsXqekUeFHxtEC5v7FzzjHXBoaAqtkEALw_wcB, I run 25 XP-E's per APC 35-700 which are a mix of Reds, Far Reds, IR and UV's.
DSCN0928.JPG
 
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remkata911

Member
What strips or led light will be the best for Meanwell HLG 480H-24A, because I use it with 24 x 2ft. Bridgelux Eb gen 2, but I understand that because the strips are 19.5V and the driver is 24V, it's better to use 20V Driver and I will have the HLG 480H-24A without lights. So what will be the best strips for example to suit that driver(and how many strips will be the best in parallel wiring) :?: :shock:
 
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