DiY LEDs - How to Power Them

http://www.meanwell.com/mw_search/LDD-H/LDD-H-SPEC.PDF

Am I too high or I see a 1500ma at 43v(46v input)?

All I will need is 46v(48?) fans and a 120w 48v supply? (2x cxa3070)

I know thats not the best way to efficiency(110v->48v then constant current), but maybe using a 48v supply with ldd 1500 and 48v fans sounds cost attractive and "lean"....

Ldd1500h u$10?
48v 3A supply u$30?

Any opinions?

Cheers

Laptop power supply's maybe? Maybe it's a cheaper source to 48v 3a?

Maybe a silly question but why don't led drivers have a built in dimmer that's not just 50 or 100%, but 0 to 100% dimming with dial on the driver itself? Seems a lot safer and easier solution to me even if it costs a few quid more.

Baura said:

http://www.meanwell.com/mw_search/LDD-H/LDD-H-SPEC.PDF

Am I too high or I see a 1500ma at 43v(46v input)?

All I will need is 46v(48?) fans and a 120w 48v supply? (2x cxa3070)

I know thats not the best way to efficiency(110v->48v then constant current), but maybe using a 48v supply with ldd 1500 and 48v fans sounds cost attractive and "lean"....

Ldd1500h u$10?
48v 3A supply u$30?

Any opinions?

Cheers

Click to expand...

Good pick up, we have just released our own version of this
http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut3040
PWM will give you nice control of your COB
CHeers
Mark

wayward1 said:

Maybe a silly question but why don't led drivers have a built in dimmer that's not just 50 or 100%, but 0 to 100% dimming with dial on the driver itself? Seems a lot safer and easier solution to me even if it costs a few quid more.

Click to expand...

there are some available but hard to get in the higher voltages
Cheers
Mark

Dude... if your shipping wasn't so horrible to USA I'd be all over those...
(actually months away from being set up to use them properly)
While Mouser has the 1500H listed, delivery date is 10/6/16 on them.

Can only hope more turn to the Buck and get away from those really high voltage builds.
Only down side is those wanting upper level Citizen with the 50v they just aren't quite able to deliver.

HalfBee said:

Dude... if your shipping wasn't so horrible to USA I'd be all over those...
(actually months away from being set up to use them properly)
While Mouser has the 1500H listed, delivery date is 10/6/16 on them.

Can only hope more turn to the Buck and get away from those really high voltage builds.
Only down side is those wanting upper level Citizen with the 50v they just aren't quite able to deliver.

Click to expand...

yes get it, we will have our stock well before Meanwell, buy more parts and the freight wont be so salty.... they will work beautifully with CXB3590
Cheers
Mark

Please... you know what I want... Small space and cheap Vero18s... but yes if I could afford 3590 I'd need less and can still rock 4 into the LRS-350-48 with 7A and not worry about pushing it too hard. Powering the LDD boards remotely keeps the build weight down too.
2x2 this is what you do...

HalfBee said:

Please... you know what I want... Small space and cheap Vero18s... but yes if I could afford 3590 I'd need less and can still rock 4 into the LRS-350-48 with 7A and not worry about pushing it too hard. Powering the LDD boards remotely keeps the build weight down too.
2x2 this is what you do...

Click to expand...

which model in Vero18?
Cheers
Mark

Honestly... whatever is cheapest in 3500K on digikey when I can scrape up the cash to put it all together.
BXRC-35E4000-F-23 or BXRC-35G4000-F-23 are the contenders at the moment.
Since they run < 33 v I want to pair them with the LRS-350-36 so I've got over 9A to play with and can go with 9@1000 or 6@1500.

There was a passing glance at the new offerings in the H12 & H15 A-class but their voltages crept up to the 35v range, meaning the 48v LRS version and would look at CREE options like the 2530 3070 etc. Only considering Vero for low voltage and cheapness.

9 @ 1000 in a 2x2 doesn't leave me much ceiling space that isn't packed with heatsink.
But 270 watts on a 350 rated driver, everything should keep running on the cooler side.

Hi. I was wondering if someone can help me figure if I got the right potentiometers?
will this driver <---
work with these pots? <---

I've wired up cobs before but I've never added a potentiometer...

@HalfBee I'm not sure if its the same for your part of the world but for me the digikey prices are outrageous. Literally twice the price of other companies. Like I say maybe its just the prices I get here and you get a much better deal, just thought I was worth mentioning.

grow1620 said:

Hi. I was wondering if someone can help me figure if I got the right potentiometers?
will this driver <---
work with these pots? <---

I've wired up cobs before but I've never added a potentiometer...

Click to expand...

I can't open your link (on work PC) but any linear 100K ohm potentiometer should work...

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alpha-Taiwan/RV16AF-10-15R1-B100K-LA/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtC25l1F4XBU1WvpdUcjC/6XJ1j8ciGOH4PPBjan5EOFQ==

ok thanks sounds like it will work then
desc:
B100K 100K Ohm 3 Terminals Rotary Audio Single Linear Potentiometer Pot

grow1620 said:

ok thanks sounds like it will work then
desc:
B100K 100K Ohm 3 Terminals Rotary Audio Single Linear Potentiometer Pot

Click to expand...

Same specs as the ones I'm using...

coreywebster said:

@HalfBee I'm not sure if its the same for your part of the world but for me the digikey prices are outrageous. Literally twice the price of other companies. Like I say maybe its just the prices I get here and you get a much better deal, just thought I was worth mentioning.

Click to expand...

Well, the Vero18s I'm looking at are $11.21 atm, if you've got something at half that price don't bogart the link...
Much of what they have is a bit higher than other places, but the variety is better.
Interesting factoid: the pcb design software I've used for years is all cross referenced to DigiKey part numbers.

Mostly I bargain shop, just bought a bunch of stuff from BGMicro you'll probably see in my next project.

HalfBee said:

Well, the Vero18s I'm looking at are $11.21 atm, if you've got something at half that price don't bogart the link...
Much of what they have is a bit higher than other places, but the variety is better.
Interesting factoid: the pcb design software I've used for years is all cross referenced to DigiKey part numbers.

Mostly I bargain shop, just bought a bunch of stuff from BGMicro you'll probably see in my next project.

Click to expand...

Citizen CLU048-1212 is about $12 and, well. A lot better. Nichia too, if you can find them. You might need to bump up to the 48V psu to keep it low voltage, but it would be worth it.

Also, the new Veros seem to be priced the same or less as the old ones, if they would ever actually ship out. They look very good.

JorgeGonzales said:

Citizen CLU048-1818 is about $12 and, well. A lot better. Nichia too, if you can find them. You might need to bump up to the 48V psu to keep it low voltage, but it would be worth it.

Click to expand...

If I were doing ANYTHING larger than 2x2 they would certainly be in consideration, same with the CREE.
Am working the low end of COBs on a budget in tight spaces. The parts, such as heatsinks & LDDs, are all
directly upgradable if I decide to move up to them later, it's in the master plan.

9A is a lot. 48V makes more sense to me. Actually something much smaller than 350w makes the most sense in a 2x2.

JorgeGonzales said:

9A is a lot. 48V makes more sense to me. Actually something much smaller than 350w makes the most sense in a 2x2.

Click to expand...

I agree, 350w is probably a lot for a 2x2. And 48v opens up a lot more possibilities in COBs.
I might not even use all 9A in flower room, that's what I like about LDDs. If I wanted, could drop a 4x 500mA into a separate veg area at 5000K or 6500K off the same power supply. My main consideration is showing not all lighting bars need to be wired in series, be top bin COBs, and break the bank in the process.

I'm not pushing the limits and trying for every last uMol it's capable of producing.
Nobody so far is building the Buck driven system, and few offer the less costly COBs & drivers.

It's not what is in demand commercially because everyone keeps asking for...
"What's the best light for my (insert grow space size here)..."
without doing the research and knowing what they actually need.

Not to rag on a new company, but what is COBKits offering... the same series drivers and top bin COBs everyone is convinced they want. I like that they included Citizen in the mix. But it's more of the same kool-ade aimed at the larger scale and more serious enthusiast with money they are willing to part with.

Enough with the rant, when I build whatever it turns out to bee... it will be as beautiful and talented to me as other people's children always appear to be to them regardless of facts or the opinions of others.