jarvild
Well-Known Member
Sorry I missed your question earlier . I've use all sorts of pot's not only for lights but for guitars and other electrical projects I do. Personally I go with the mid-range priced ones.
DiY LEDs - How to Power Them
- Thread starter SupraSPL
- Start date
well looking to run around 200w got a spare hlg-185-c1400b if it would b possible to wire in series
Rocket Soul
Well-Known Member
That ddiver is 143V, the 1212 is 36V. The h influx are listed as 9.1-48 V, some them will work some wont, depends on what version. Should be able to check it in the datasheet:
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://media.digikey.com/pdf/Data%20Sheets/Samsung%20PDFs/H_inFlux_Ver0.6_2-5-18.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwiKq77_87vgAhVvBWMBHRabAv8QFjAAegQIAhAB&usg=AOvVaw3kYxAykUMV4xswMA785hz-
currently have 4 off the h influx running on a hlg-240h-48b in parallel if that helps.
wouldn't the 185 run the h influx at 36v the same as the clu048s if they were wired in series.
apoloigies if i'm talking crap here.
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exoticcloud
Member
@whytewidow please man can you confirm that the driver would be in HLG 480H C2100 range and then follows with AB instead of D2? because I checked out datasheet and there are lots of options which confuses me not sure what is the right one
https://www.meanwell.com/Upload/PDF/HLG-480H-C/HLG-480H-C-SPEC.PDF
Its at the bottom of the first page
I would appreciate the help from anyone
thanks and have a great day!
GBAUTO
Well-Known Member
Yes, the AB version has the same output as the others. It just has both an internal amperage pot like the 'A' version as well as the dimming lead like the 'B'version.@whytewidow please man can you confirm that the driver would be in HLG 480H C2100 range and then follows with AB instead of D2? because I checked out datasheet and there are lots of options which confuses me not sure what is the right one
https://www.meanwell.com/Upload/PDF/HLG-480H-C/HLG-480H-C-SPEC.PDF
Its at the bottom of the first page
I would appreciate the help from anyone
thanks and have a great day!
I have several power supplies and the voltage range is 55-100volts while the current stays constant from 0.65-0.665amps.
My question is what determines how much voltage is put out or used by led?
For example if I used a cxb 3590 72volt would it work safely and if so what is keeping the cob from getting a 100volts?
My question is what determines how much voltage is put out or used by led?
For example if I used a cxb 3590 72volt would it work safely and if so what is keeping the cob from getting a 100volts?
I can add some more leds to asorb extra voltage but I see many hacks
The constant current I understand but the driver being able to adjust voltage in this case a cxb 3590 72volt cob doesnt make sense but I understand what your saying.
Is there something in the driver that adjusts its voltage to 72volts if a 72volt cree cob was used with driver?
I can’t get my head around how the driver knows not to go past 72volts,given a 72 cree cob is used,but I’ll just accept it and go on.
I did some reading and I seen many others with the same question and it makes sense.
whytewidow
Well-Known Member
When you use CC drivers say the hlg-240h-c1400a. Jus for example. It will only put out 1400mA. And when you drive an led at 1400mA it will only draw the matching voltage from datasheet. Like for example I'm using bridgelux eb series gen 2 strips. At 1400mA they pull 21.6v per strip. If I push say 1450mA to it it will draw more voltage. If I push less than 1400mA it will draw less than the 21.6v the driver wont push more voltage. But if you're hacking like a Mars light. You have to watch the drivers. Bc the voltage isnt constant in some of them. You need to hook up a meter to them. And watch the voltage it bounces around alot. Instead staying steady.
GBAUTO
Well-Known Member
Based on what I can see from Cree's simulator, it says that the forward voltage when driven @ 700mA is 69.67V. As long as that voltage falls within the constant current range voltage range that the driver is designed to be able to function, it works automatically. It's only when you attempt to operate components that have a forward voltage that's either less than or greater than the limits of the constant current voltage range that the driver will not work correctly. You're all good
Kipn
Well-Known Member
hi people i know ill probably get some hate for asking this but i have seen it done before just cant find the old posts on it
i have a mars hydro 300w (135w true wat) crappy led that i would like to swap the board out with something decent like a QB board
i know the drivers are shit and its super old technology but i have one sitting around going to waste and if i can spend less then $100 to upgrade it. i see that worthy
id prefer not to use cobs even if they are better due to the fact the wiring is more complicated then just taking the existing positive and negative wires and plugging them in to a QB. id even prefer if i can slot it in the original housing if i can get the board to have similar dimensions. can anyone help me out with some information or links to boards i could use. also preferably boards that can be use to veg and flower if not at least used for veg
i have a mars hydro 300w (135w true wat) crappy led that i would like to swap the board out with something decent like a QB board
i know the drivers are shit and its super old technology but i have one sitting around going to waste and if i can spend less then $100 to upgrade it. i see that worthy
id prefer not to use cobs even if they are better due to the fact the wiring is more complicated then just taking the existing positive and negative wires and plugging them in to a QB. id even prefer if i can slot it in the original housing if i can get the board to have similar dimensions. can anyone help me out with some information or links to boards i could use. also preferably boards that can be use to veg and flower if not at least used for veg
Moflow
Well-Known Member
Pull the light apart and get a look at the drivers.
Take a pic of driver/drivers, they usually have a sticker on them stating voltage range and current.
Any cheapo drivers I've seen are usually ~550 to 600 mA and 55 - 100v but they vary slightly.
Here's one
I've a couple of these in use for QBs and cobs.
3 x citizen 1212s at 20 watts each for example.
I'd need to check the QBs wattage but think it's around 34 watts.
Kipn
Well-Known Member
i watched that video hints why i said i didnt want to use cobs. i didnt want to tap my own mounting holes or cut my own heatsink and have to deal with the wiring and trying to connect them in series. i was hopping for a board i could just directly swap with the one already in it . i can take a photo of it when i get home from work but last time i looked inside i think it was much the same driver as that
nobighurry
Well-Known Member
Good morning: I am putting together a HLG 550 kit, Is it better to mount your driver tight to the heat sink so heat is transferred to my heat sink or leave an airspace so the fans can blow air underneath them? I actually want/need heat inside my rooms so remote driver mounting is not necessary... Appreciate any thoughts...
GBAUTO
Well-Known Member
All of my Meanwells have mounting brackets on the ends that provide a small standoff from the bottom of the case. Most of the heat dissipated is through convection rather than conduction. I remote mount mine outside because I don't want the thermal load-it should help a bit if you need the heat.