Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Yes, if you want!
These V/A meters are from ebay and pretty easy to install. They costs only 5-6 bucks but there are several typs to buy, from 30V to 600V and 1A-100A(more as 10A with external shunt) but in your case I would say the 300V/10A version is the best because it have a built-in shunt which make it easier to install.
To connect it to your LED strings:
- Simple add the yellow cable at last to the black wire of your LED/Cob string and the black wire from Ameter to the - port of the driver(black cable).
- The red cable from V/A meter connect to the +wire(red) of your driver.
Because of its digital design it needs 5-30v constant voltage to drive this typ of VA and thermometers.
I've connected it together with my fans to the 12v/1A fan driver.
(digital VA- and thermo-meters pulls only 20mA so it's negligible.)
Probably the most important thing is that you have to calibrate it by yourself using a hand-multimeter to get true readings. Therefor each VA-meter has two small poti's on the backside, one for voltage and one for current.
If you don't have a multimeter you can also use your meanwell driver for calibration. They are pretty correct in terms of voltage and current and my HLG-120H-C1050B pE. has only +/- 2% deviation.
These V/A meters are from ebay and pretty easy to install. They costs only 5-6 bucks but there are several typs to buy, from 30V to 600V and 1A-100A(more as 10A with external shunt) but in your case I would say the 300V/10A version is the best because it have a built-in shunt which make it easier to install.
To connect it to your LED strings:
- Simple add the yellow cable at last to the black wire of your LED/Cob string and the black wire from Ameter to the - port of the driver(black cable).
- The red cable from V/A meter connect to the +wire(red) of your driver.
Because of its digital design it needs 5-30v constant voltage to drive this typ of VA and thermometers.
I've connected it together with my fans to the 12v/1A fan driver.
(digital VA- and thermo-meters pulls only 20mA so it's negligible.)
Probably the most important thing is that you have to calibrate it by yourself using a hand-multimeter to get true readings. Therefor each VA-meter has two small poti's on the backside, one for voltage and one for current.
If you don't have a multimeter you can also use your meanwell driver for calibration. They are pretty correct in terms of voltage and current and my HLG-120H-C1050B pE. has only +/- 2% deviation.
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