DIY Passive cooling with PIN Heatsinks SST120 and SST140

Airwalker16 · May 19, 2016

CoB_nUt said:
Dammmit I didn't ground my frame! Don't have a junction box yet, but just so I understood what airwalker is saying. Just run some of the same solid core wire used to run the cobs a sepearte wire of course, tied into the ground wire(wagos) of the drivers ground? Also, had a question about the pot and resistor. Ok 2 questions.
1. Is it ok that i used wagos to connect the pot and resistor to the dim leads of the driver? It works just not sure how safe it is.I used electrical tape to seal/cover the cconnectors. haven't soldered anything to date. Did buy a soldering iron and flux rods tho.
Also, watching growmau5's videos, I see he applies somehing to the wire before he uses the flux rod and soldering iron. What is the stuff?
2.Is an on off switch an option? I've never seen any mention on one on diy builds. Not totally necessary when hooked to a timer. But, yea yanno....
Any ideas on how he got that mirror polish on his angle aluminum?

@Airwalker16, are your drivers remotely mounted with that J-box outside your grow space?

It's in the space just below it all. And it's called liquid flux that mau5 uses. And by rods I hope you're referring to solder. Solder is crazy thin. Not a rod of any kind. It's more of a spool.
And you need to ground the frame to the ground wire of the power cord. And please solder your resistors and potentiometer. Unless you can post some pics to show us what you did?

Airwalker16 · May 19, 2016

Well, I went ahead and grounded it. Little tutoral pics for ya COB Nut. And to put @robincnn at ease.

See how thin the solder is
@CoB_nUt ?
I soldered that into the wire before I taped it up, just forgot to take a pic :/

HydroRed · May 19, 2016

Not many stress the importance of grounding to the frame/heatsink from the AC side. Good call @robincnn
Looks good Airwalker16,very clean build....and safe too.

Airwalker16 · May 19, 2016

I really enjoy soldering...

Lopez7808 · May 19, 2016

No answer.

robincnn · May 20, 2016

Lopez7808 said:
No answer.

I am out of heatsinks. Another 2 weeks. Price depends on size 120mm or 140mm. Visit website of IM me for more details.
There are a few places you can get these heatsinks, just browse first 2 pages of LED forum. Thanks

CoB_nUt said:
Is it ok that i used wagos to connect the pot and resistor to the dim leads of the driver?

Yes. you will have to solder a wire to potentiometer.solder flux like airwalker said.
Wago 221's AWG 24 - 12
Wago 222's AWG 26 - 12

CoB_nUt said:
Just run some of the same solid core wire used to run the cobs a sepearte wire of course, tied into the ground wire(wagos) of the drivers ground

Wire from frame to driver ground and both also connected to ground from power outlet.

robincnn · May 20, 2016

Grounding frame is like a 'best practice'. If the lamp is running, I would not want to touch a frame unless it is grounded. If the cob wire disconnects and touches the frame i hope the circuit breaker will kick in..
It may seems not as important but it has benefits that i would not like to find out otherwise.

One of the most important reasons for grounding electrical currents is that it protects your appliances, your home and everyone in it from surges in electricity. If lightning was to strike or the power was to surge at your place for whatever reason, this produces dangerously high voltages of electricity in your system. If your electrical system is grounded, all of that excess electricity will go into the earth — rather than frying everything connected to your system.

One of the problems with appliances and equipment which have a "floating metal case" is that a shock hazard exists if the case comes into contact with the hot wire. This so called "fault condition" may happen in many ways with some of the more common causes being a "pinched" line cord, failure of installation systems, or movement of components due to shock or vibration which will cause the "hot wire" terminal to touch the case. Naturally, if for any reason the case does become "live,"then a person touching it may be shocked if he is grounded. If this "hot chassis" is connected to another chassis or instrument by a typical shielded cord, then that chassis or instrument will become hot also. The entire purpose of the present three wire system is to provide a separate ground path which will effectively eliminate any possibility of shock.

So i shorted the ground with the + and - of the HLG-120-42 and the breaker did not trip, repeated and GFCI did not trip either. Probably because DC voltage was too low.
I did not want to try this with 100+ V constant current drivers.

guod · May 20, 2016

we have here two independent systems.

one system(your nation wide grid) is grounded at the powerplant and at home.
the GFCI can only work in this configuration.

the other system(the driver output) is not grounded.
here you can touch one of the wires and you will feel nothing as this system is not grounded.
for the real fun you have to touch both wires at the same time.

goggle grounding systems for deeper understanding...

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Isolation_transformer

ThaiBaby1 · May 20, 2016

robincnn said:
Grounding frame is like a 'best practice'. If the lamp is running, I would not want to touch a frame unless it is grounded. If the cob wire disconnects and touches the frame i hope the circuit breaker will kick in..
It may seems not as important but it has benefits that i would not like to find out otherwise.

So i shorted the ground with the + and - of the HLG-120-42 and the breaker did not trip, repeated and GFCI did not trip either. Probably because DC voltage was too low.
I did not want to try this with 100+ V constant current drivers.

Hi Robin ,
I,m putting together a fiberglass frame so no need to ground the frame

robincnn · May 20, 2016

ThaiBaby1 said:
Hi Robin ,
I,m putting together a fiberglass frame so no need to ground the frame

I guess not needed for fiberglass frame. @guod might know better.

HydroRed · May 20, 2016

ThaiBaby1 said:
Hi Robin ,
I,m putting together a fiberglass frame so no need to ground the frame

Not for the fiberglass frame, but you would need to ground anything that would be conductive if a short were to occour.

Lopez7808 · May 20, 2016

I found them for less than half the price you gave on the web site. Hell maybe I will sell them on my own site.

Airwalker16 · May 20, 2016

Lopez7808 said:
I found them for less than half the price you gave on the web site. Hell maybe I will sell them on my own site.

Quit trolling this thread, noob.

Lopez7808 · May 20, 2016

Stop being douchey and suck it up. Loser

Lopez7808 · May 20, 2016

Love the ignore button. So talk all the trash you want.

BOBBY_G · May 20, 2016

holy shit retailers mark up products?

GTFO!!!!

Lopez7808 · May 20, 2016

Mark up more like retail robbery

Abiqua · May 20, 2016

Airwalker16 said:
It's in the space just below it all. And it's called liquid flux that mau5 uses. And by rods I hope you're referring to solder. Solder is crazy thin. Not a rod of any kind. It's more of a spool.
And you need to ground the frame to the ground wire of the power cord. And please solder your resistors and potentiometer. Unless you can post some pics to show us what you did?

I would also run a leg to the metal casing off the earth ground aka the house ground....This is code technically.

Airwalker16 · May 20, 2016

Abiqua said:
I would also run a leg to the metal casing off the earth ground aka the house ground....This is code technically.

What metal casing? The Junction box is all plastic.

ttystikk · May 20, 2016

Airwalker16 said:
Quit trolling this thread, noob.

This is hysterical coming from you, lol

DIY Passive cooling with PIN Heatsinks SST120 and SST140

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