DIY with Quantum Boards

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DidjitalDude

Member
ChefKimbo said:
My plants were doing @50 watts per board...i crank up the wattage to see the plants response. Everybody's setup is different.
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do you think you could run your boards fine without heatsink? i heard at 50 watts and up you need a heatsink, so i think it would apply even more having a qb288 with less diode/energy spread. in other words u think u could get away with a 288 no heatsink at 50watts? lol
 
ChefKimbo

ChefKimbo

Well-Known Member
DidjitalDude said:
do you think you could run your boards fine without heatsink? i heard at 50 watts and up you need a heatsink, so i think it would apply even more having a qb288 with less diode/energy spread. in other words u think u could get away with a 288 no heatsink at 50watts? lol
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Above all, I run my boards with no heatsinks because they haven't been restock yet. I have them at about 75 watts each and they are warm for sure but I'm using a fan to cool them as well as overkill exhaust. Ambient temps around 65 during lights on help a lot. I'll be testing them at 100 watt soon but I plan to have those heatsinks before the summer rolls in. Insurance.
 
greenmorpho

greenmorpho

Active Member
Hi guys, I am a newb to the quantum boards, but just picked up 4 the other night when they were available. I have built COB lights before with the help of Supra's chart and thread.
I still have not brushed up on all the tech numbers and calculation stuff yet. Have so much on my plate it is hard to dive in but will eventually.
My question is I bought four boards and want to run 2 boards per driver, Is the a driver that would be best? I do have the slate 1 heat sinks but only for two boards, waiting on more to come in stock to get 2 more, but I might get the better heat sinks. I tend to run my LEDs with dimmers that I have all the way up, so dimming is not required. Any help would be gratefully appreciated.

Sorry again about a newb question, I just don't have time to sit down and read hundreds of thread pages at the moment. I just need to order something to get going now.
 
Blake_n_Concentrates

Blake_n_Concentrates

Well-Known Member
greenmorpho said:
Hi guys, I am a newb to the quantum boards, but just picked up 4 the other night when they were available. I have built COB lights before with the help of Supra's chart and thread.
I still have not brushed up on all the tech numbers and calculation stuff yet. Have so much on my plate it is hard to dive in but will eventually.
My question is I bought four boards and want to run 2 boards per driver, Is the a driver that would be best? I do have the slate 1 heat sinks but only for two boards, waiting on more to come in stock to get 2 more, but I might get the better heat sinks. I tend to run my LEDs with dimmers that I have all the way up, so dimming is not required. Any help would be gratefully appreciated.

Sorry again about a newb question, I just don't have time to sit down and read hundreds of thread pages at the moment. I just need to order something to get going now.
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Which board? For the QB288, 2 boards on an hlg-240-2100c should fit your needs really well. Runs them at about 110 watts or so each at a decently efficient drive current. It's what I'm planning to run here soon. Just need to wire everything up.
 
robincnn

robincnn

Well-Known Member
goodro wilson said:
So if ran under 100 watts how much of a heatsink is actually needed @robincnn
Thinking of some alternate heatsink ideas in case I get can get my hands on four boards before the heatsinks are available
I've seen people use cookie sheets on YouTube for cobs and after seeing the 90 watt qb kit in action a simple sheet of aluminum doesn't seem as crazy now bc the slate1 heatsink doesn't weigh much at all
I know there is some heatsink calculator but doubt they'd help me
I want single heatsinks for each board does heatsink USA have any super thin heatsinks?
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for 100 watts Slate 1 is good enough.
Slate 1 is just as good as a plain sheet of anodized aluminum. should have plenty of those soon
I tried the heatsink USA profile. Its on page 1. it gets a little hot as it is not anodized.
 
robincnn

robincnn

Well-Known Member
The_Dude said:
Meanwell HLG - I meant the driver. Maybe I am confused, but with other cob lights I've built, I've had to provide a potentiometer to lower the voltage to dim the light. The potentiometer I was using, I had to use a small screw driver to adjust the voltage. It sucked, but got the job done.
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I prefer Type A drivers these days.
No need to solder and wire additional Potentiometer.
100K ohm Potentiometer for 1 driver, 50 K ohm Potentiometer for 2 drivers

If you ever order anything from HLG and also need a potentiometer, Just put in checkout comments and request for 100K ohm or 50K ohm potentiometer and I will try to add it to order.
 
robincnn

robincnn

Well-Known Member
DidjitalDude said:
do you think you could run your boards fine without heatsink? i heard at 50 watts and up you need a heatsink, so i think it would apply even more having a qb288 with less diode/energy spread. in other words u think u could get away with a 288 no heatsink at 50watts? lol
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ya you can run these at 50W with no heatsinks if the backside is not facing a wall or blocked by anything. However i recommend something to hold the board.
 
sixstring2112

sixstring2112

Well-Known Member
MMJ Dreaming 99 said:
Has anyone pulled 2 per light with QBs yet? I am 100% pro QB. Trying to free up some cash for a test one or two to run against current SE Hydrofarms 1000 watt hps and Nanolux DE. The Nano was not my idea. I have not used these microwaves yet.
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You will need 4 boards and alot of help from the gods to compete with a de at full power.better fire up those hid's and get some practice in :)
 
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