daveybc
Well-Known Member
Would measuring the current between the driver and board be any different? I was using one of those cheap meters in the wall.
DIY with Quantum Boards
- Thread starter robincnn
- Start date
61falcon
Well-Known Member
I am no expert, but have only seen people measure on the drive to load side with either clamp meter or those inline voltage/watt current meters. I am about to get 4 of the 96’s to put in a 3x3x7 once they are back in stock. I am going to also run them on single drivers, but am probably going to go the hlg-240h-54a as I believe to get to 1000 ppfd in a 3x3 I need to run them at 180-200watt.
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daveybc
Well-Known Member
There is a thread here with info on par readings on hlg240h 54a. Or Gro has put some time into some mapping in a 4x4 for a single 96 to 4 96's and even 6, I think. https://www.rollitup.org/t/qb96-elite-v2-w-sstx-heatsink-question.977654/page-18. Lots of info to read, go through the pages in you haven't already.
Pop22 has an interesting comment above about driving lower wattage. Diving 800 watts into a 9 sq foot footprint would be a lot of light. I bet 2 hlg 240h 54 would do the trick in a 3x3 ( even turned down ). The data sheet for the 240H 54 showed 4 amps at max power. THe 185H 54 data sheet was 2.1 amps. The 185 driver would go over 200 watts for sure. The 240 driver would do 200 watts ( dialed down ) but run cooler. Depending on your environment, cooler drivers are a big plus.
Keep in mind having 4 hlg 240h 54a (16 AMPS ) turned all the way up would create an unsafe environment on a 15 amp breaker, and max a 20 amp breaker. Probably safest having an "A" type driver with enclosed POT, as well a way to monitor the power. THe 185 driver would be safer and is recommended by HLG LIghting. Upon personal experience ( few weeks.. ) they have recommended the proper spec.
For sure run at least 2 drivers for redundancy. So much to think about. Good luck.
Pop22 has an interesting comment above about driving lower wattage. Diving 800 watts into a 9 sq foot footprint would be a lot of light. I bet 2 hlg 240h 54 would do the trick in a 3x3 ( even turned down ). The data sheet for the 240H 54 showed 4 amps at max power. THe 185H 54 data sheet was 2.1 amps. The 185 driver would go over 200 watts for sure. The 240 driver would do 200 watts ( dialed down ) but run cooler. Depending on your environment, cooler drivers are a big plus.
Keep in mind having 4 hlg 240h 54a (16 AMPS ) turned all the way up would create an unsafe environment on a 15 amp breaker, and max a 20 amp breaker. Probably safest having an "A" type driver with enclosed POT, as well a way to monitor the power. THe 185 driver would be safer and is recommended by HLG LIghting. Upon personal experience ( few weeks.. ) they have recommended the proper spec.
For sure run at least 2 drivers for redundancy. So much to think about. Good luck.
daveybc
Well-Known Member
Right now I am running 3 260 kits ( 2 qb 288 per hlg 240h c2100a in series per kit ) and a single qb288 ( w/burned out row which was promptly replaced by hlg lighting under warranty ) on a hlg 100 54a in center. It.s footprint was like 4x6. I just added the 4 96 elites on 4 hlg 185 54a to complete a solid 4x8 footprint. Adding the 4 Elite allowed me to turn all the 288,s down. Hopefully I can keep the temps in check as we enter the warmer months. My 288 drivers and lights are way cooler then before.
61falcon
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I have been following Or_Gro for a while on GC and here and have read a lot from both sites. I have printed out all his data sheets on the QB96’s. I was going to get the 240h-54a and turn them down to the required wattage using a PZEM-031 DC 6.5-100V LCD Digital Power Energy Voltage Current Meter. Cheers for the heads up on the amps as well. My mate is a sparkie and I was going to ask him if it would be necessary to put in a new beaker just for the lights. My house is 240volt and has min RCBO c-20a breakers on each breaker and 32amp for an induction cooktop. What datasheet did you get the amps for the 240 & 185 drivers? I could be reading them wrong as I am no expert but, I am looking at the Meanwell datasheet and it says the 240h-54a has a rated current of 4.45a and the 185h-54a is 3.45a. On the HLG site it say at 224watts the current would be 4amp and at 187watt it would be 3.4amp.
I have been thinking about getting the 185h-54a but thought running the 240's at lower watts would be better than if I had to push the 185's at max power. I am still undecided which driver to run but.
In veg, I am probably only going to run 2 lights at 120-160w at 24". I have a lux meter so will be able to do some of my own mappings as well. I still need confirmation on what to divide the lux by to get the ppfd as I have seen 2 different numbers that people use 64 & 67, if anyone knows.
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daveybc
Well-Known Member
Those specs l mentioned are for 115/120 V circuit, being a new user I forgot many country's don't use that Voltage. In Canada/US 220/240V are used for oven's, clothing dryer etc. 120V for standard plug.
230V Will draw less Amps Like .9A for the 185 and 2A for the 240. you should be OK. I usually go to Mouser or Digikey or like and the "Data Sheet" should be linked on the model for sale. I don't like sending links, unless back to RIU but I would google "HLG 240H 54A Mouser" and the "data sheet" should be linked from mouser for instance.
Since I have them handy, here they are.
https://www.meanwell.com/webapp/product/search.aspx?prod=HLG-185H
https://www.meanwell.com/webapp/product/search.aspx?prod=HLG-240H
For anyone planning to use 4 hlg240h 54a ( or more ) like several others have. They should be aware that if the POTS are turned up when plugged in, that could be 16+amps on a potential15 amp breaker. Which leads me to this:"If your home was built between 1950 and 1990 and is equipped with a Federal Pacific Electric (FPE) circuit breaker panel with Stab-Lok circuit breakers, you run a significant risk of breaker malfunction and fire. ..."
I don't read much on here about power and loading circuits down but I suppose this is a HLG DIY thread.. But people need to be safe when running grow lights. It's great that HLG LED lighting saves you power and all, but once you pass a small light ie 260 W and some fans you will start loading a circuit. Circuits should not exceed 80% of their maximum capacity with ongoing service, 12 amps on 15 amp circuit when running continuous or 16 amps 20 amp circuit when running continuous. It is worth knowing what other household items are being run on a circuit. If you don't know this you need to figure this out..You don't want a hair dryer, dish washer etc overloading your circuit on your grow.
I am not an electrician but I do know how not to overload a circuit and some basic stuff. If a circuit breaker ever blows, a serious problem is being created. In North America someone is putting in a 20 amp breaker in place of a 15 amp on a 120 V circuit, you are likely creating a hazard. You better make sure the wiring is 12 gauge in your location. If your location is 12 gauge it could be outfitted for 20 amp breakers already ( amps are labelled on the breakers ). If you are going distance use a "voltage drop calculator" to determine gauge wire for the length required. I used this below calculator to determine the gauge on a 130 foot copper run. 6 gauge burial wire is what I used to stay with in a 3% voltage loss. Terminate into a junction box onto a short run of 12 gauge copper to outlet( I am pretty sure 12 gauge is the lowest that will fit onto a 120V outlet and you must use the screw terminal ) and a 20 amp single post breaker. FYI "The NEC allows a maximum of a 3% voltage drop on the main branch of a circuit at the farthest outlet of power and 5% total to both feeders and branch circuits to the farthest outlet".. Copper is forgiving and can be pushed passed this but not recommended. I used the existing 15 AMP breaker on 12 gauge wire at 130 feet and the voltage drop was 9V ( out of spec ). It got me by a year until I wanted to add more gear. This calculator was easy to use when selecting proper gauge wire with a 20 amp breaker and distance.
http://www.paigewire.com/(X(1)S(mpoj2vxloqgivlrqn4s1usxa))/pumpWireCalc.aspx?AspxAutoDetectCookieSupport=1
I recommend hiring a certified electrician if you are not confident in this sort of work. You need to shut off your main breaker completely when you are adding new breaker in a panel. As well main panels have amp limits as well. Please do your homework when messing with power.
If there is an electrician around please correct me if i have mislead anyone. I am pretty confident though. Stay safe all.
Hope I stayed on topic
230V Will draw less Amps Like .9A for the 185 and 2A for the 240. you should be OK. I usually go to Mouser or Digikey or like and the "Data Sheet" should be linked on the model for sale. I don't like sending links, unless back to RIU but I would google "HLG 240H 54A Mouser" and the "data sheet" should be linked from mouser for instance.
Since I have them handy, here they are.
https://www.meanwell.com/webapp/product/search.aspx?prod=HLG-185H
https://www.meanwell.com/webapp/product/search.aspx?prod=HLG-240H
For anyone planning to use 4 hlg240h 54a ( or more ) like several others have. They should be aware that if the POTS are turned up when plugged in, that could be 16+amps on a potential15 amp breaker. Which leads me to this:"If your home was built between 1950 and 1990 and is equipped with a Federal Pacific Electric (FPE) circuit breaker panel with Stab-Lok circuit breakers, you run a significant risk of breaker malfunction and fire. ..."
I don't read much on here about power and loading circuits down but I suppose this is a HLG DIY thread.. But people need to be safe when running grow lights. It's great that HLG LED lighting saves you power and all, but once you pass a small light ie 260 W and some fans you will start loading a circuit. Circuits should not exceed 80% of their maximum capacity with ongoing service, 12 amps on 15 amp circuit when running continuous or 16 amps 20 amp circuit when running continuous. It is worth knowing what other household items are being run on a circuit. If you don't know this you need to figure this out..You don't want a hair dryer, dish washer etc overloading your circuit on your grow.
I am not an electrician but I do know how not to overload a circuit and some basic stuff. If a circuit breaker ever blows, a serious problem is being created. In North America someone is putting in a 20 amp breaker in place of a 15 amp on a 120 V circuit, you are likely creating a hazard. You better make sure the wiring is 12 gauge in your location. If your location is 12 gauge it could be outfitted for 20 amp breakers already ( amps are labelled on the breakers ). If you are going distance use a "voltage drop calculator" to determine gauge wire for the length required. I used this below calculator to determine the gauge on a 130 foot copper run. 6 gauge burial wire is what I used to stay with in a 3% voltage loss. Terminate into a junction box onto a short run of 12 gauge copper to outlet( I am pretty sure 12 gauge is the lowest that will fit onto a 120V outlet and you must use the screw terminal ) and a 20 amp single post breaker. FYI "The NEC allows a maximum of a 3% voltage drop on the main branch of a circuit at the farthest outlet of power and 5% total to both feeders and branch circuits to the farthest outlet".. Copper is forgiving and can be pushed passed this but not recommended. I used the existing 15 AMP breaker on 12 gauge wire at 130 feet and the voltage drop was 9V ( out of spec ). It got me by a year until I wanted to add more gear. This calculator was easy to use when selecting proper gauge wire with a 20 amp breaker and distance.
http://www.paigewire.com/(X(1)S(mpoj2vxloqgivlrqn4s1usxa))/pumpWireCalc.aspx?AspxAutoDetectCookieSupport=1
I recommend hiring a certified electrician if you are not confident in this sort of work. You need to shut off your main breaker completely when you are adding new breaker in a panel. As well main panels have amp limits as well. Please do your homework when messing with power.
If there is an electrician around please correct me if i have mislead anyone. I am pretty confident though. Stay safe all.
Hope I stayed on topic
pop22
Well-Known Member
measuring the voltage and the amperage on the DC side would give you more accurate data
yeatster
Well-Known Member
I'm interested in a diy QB. I've scratched the surface of research but cant find a solid, recent reference. I'm going to skim the last bunch of pages here
Is buying a kit from HLG the way to go? How much more savings are there to be had with a bit more work involved.
I'm looking at about a $300 budget. Willing to invest more but will have to do it over the course of a few weeks. Any guidance would be much appreciated.
Anyone interested in helping me put together a grocery list?
Is buying a kit from HLG the way to go? How much more savings are there to be had with a bit more work involved.
I'm looking at about a $300 budget. Willing to invest more but will have to do it over the course of a few weeks. Any guidance would be much appreciated.
Anyone interested in helping me put together a grocery list?
nekvt
Well-Known Member
I can't comment on HLG as I haven't used them yet. I just setup a panel light from Atreum Lighting in my 32"x32" tent and have been very happy with their products and customer service.
NanoGadget
Well-Known Member
This is kind of a brand specific thread.
yeatster
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the reply. I will look into those now.
The reason I mentioned the HLG, I am under the impression they are the best of the best right now using Samsung 301b diodes. I really dont know enough about this tech. I normally would gladly purchase assembled, just thought Id give it a try.
nekvt
Well-Known Member
I don't know much about it myself. I went with Atreum because a buddy that has both HLG and Atreum lights pointed me to Atreum.. The Atreum 288.2 also has the Samsung 301b diodes. I started with one and then added another through their Ebay store when Ebsy was offering 15% off. Another tidbit if you are in the States, I offered $70 on Ebay and they took the offer. Not a big deal, but $8 is better in my pocket than it is theirs, lol.
NanoGadget
Well-Known Member
Or i guess just continue derailing an HLG thread.
delstele
Well-Known Member
This would do nicely in a small tent or grow space. I am running 2 of these plants are loving them...
https://horticulturelightinggroup.com/collections/kits/products/260w-qb-v2-led-kit
daveybc
Well-Known Member
Here is a HLG 260 kit I built. 3/4" angled aluminum. The aluminum is 24" long, 2 QB288 v1 boards w/blue anodized slate 6 heatsinks. It is adjustable as you can see. I like single heatsinks as it allows more flexibility in design. I used a HLG 240H C2100a in series per fixture but there are others to choose. You can mount the driver on the angled aluminum or remote. Use 18 gauge solid wire to the boards and some Wago's. A male AC plug for the driver and perhaps an extension cord and your golden. $82.50 for each QB288v2 including heat sink. As well a driver ( est $60 for above ). 10-$20 for the angled aluminum. probably 10-$30 for Wago's, small stove bolts, key chain rings rope ratchet for hanging, Male AC plug, 18 gauge wire and extension cord. Perhaps you have some these to save $. I had a board with a problem out of the box, I was sent a replacement right away. No problems since and everything has been running over a year.
pop22
Well-Known Member
They are without a doubt, the best boards available, and all the rest are just cheap copies.
what size area are you trying to cover? Myself, I'd buy a pair of QB 304 V2 and spend the rest on a driver that could run up to 4 boards such as the HLG320H-C1400
what size area are you trying to cover? Myself, I'd buy a pair of QB 304 V2 and spend the rest on a driver that could run up to 4 boards such as the HLG320H-C1400
Here is a HLG 260 kit I built. 3/4" angled aluminum. The aluminum is 24" long, 2 QB288 v1 boards w/blue anodized slate 6 heatsinks. It is adjustable as you can see. I like single heatsinks as it allows more flexibility in design. I used a HLG 240H C2100a in series per fixture but there are others to choose. You can mount the driver on the angled aluminum or remote. Use 18 gauge solid wire to the boards and some Wago's. A male AC plug for the driver and perhaps an extension cord and your golden. $82.50 for each QB288v2 including heat sink. As well a driver ( est $60 for above ). 10-$20 for the angled aluminum. probably 10-$30 for Wago's, small stove bolts, key chain rings rope ratchet for hanging, Male AC plug, 18 gauge wire and extension cord. Perhaps you have some these to save $. I had a board with a problem out of the box, I was sent a replacement right away. No problems since and everything has been running over a year.
daveybc
Well-Known Member
It appears the 304 boards are not on the HLG site anymore. I thought the qb304 had lm561c chips only. However the 324 board w/heatsink is still on there site and has the LM301B chips ( v2 board in 3500K ). That looks like a great choice. Nice spectrum too. Out of stock though..
zypheruk
Well-Known Member
Guys just keep in mind when giving people advise about buying lights, its no just as simple as saying 4 x boards for say a 4x4 space, you certainly need to take into account the height of the space, lower heights = more reflected light and not just from the side walls. In cases like that you can use a lot less power. Grow style, air intake / out take etc all should be discussed before giving advise.
NanoGadget
Well-Known Member
Very true. Another reason i love QBs... i can use my Quantum Boards in damn near any situation. Too much light? Turn my drivers down a bit. Need more light spread? Space the boards out. Need side lighting? Can do that too. It's really hard to go wrong with QBs.
maxlev
Well-Known Member
A versatile light source them HLG QB`s.
I have a spare 4000k V2 turned down to 33 watts bolted to an oven tray.
My little veg/mother tent is only 80cm tall & it is a perfect fit taking up sod all space.
