Dj Short how to Harvest your Herb

Harvest Your Herb
by DJ Short

There are several important points to consider when choosing the optimum time to harvest your cannabis crop. There are different factors to consider between indoor and outdoor plants. There is the difference between Sativas and Indicas in bloom duration and final effect. There is the difference between early and late harvest to encourage head to body high respectively. There is the issue of chemistry because what we are really considering in terms of the "ripeness" relates directly to the chemical nature and state of the plant at harvest. Last, but not least, is the concept of "the window of harvest", where I will begin.

The Window of Harvest
This term indicates the period during which the plant is at its optimum state of ripeness. The window "opens" when the plant is first ripe. Somewhere along the line the plant becomes over-ripe which signifies the "closing" of the window of harvest.

For most Indicas grown indoors, the window of harvest is about two weeks long * give or take a couple of days for various strains. Indoors, if going directly from an 18/6 hour vegetative light cycle to a 12/12 hour bud cycle, most indicas take about eight weeks to fully mature.

As to outdoors I can only speak from experience at the 45th parallel and the bloom times there. At the 45th parallel I've found most Indicas to be at peak harvest starting at the beginning of October, sometimes very late September, and running until the end of October, sometimes running into November during mild years or in a greenhouse. My favorite time to harvest a nice Blueberry Indica outdoors is in the second to third week of October.

For Sativa grown either indoors or outdoors, the window may be open much longer. Some Sativas take up to thirteen weeks to mature indoors. Outdoors many will go well into November and even December, if conditions are right (again, this is near or at the 45th parallel).

Head High or Body Stone?
An important consideration has to do with one's preference for a "head" high or more of a "body" high. A good head high can positively influence one's mental state much like a psychedelic; whereas a good body high is more similar to a narcotic effect. Generally, head highs tend to be more up and body highs tend to be more down. Suffice it to say that a good healthy mix of the two is a fine goal to achieve.

Sativas and early window harvests tend to be more of a head high, whereas Indicas and late window harvests tend to be more of a body high. Given this rule of thumb you can pretty much come up with what you want. That is, if you prefer a very psychedelic head high, then an early harvested Sativa might do best. If a very narcotic body high is desired, then a late harvest indicas would probably do best. For that best-of-both worlds high, experimentation with late harvested sativas and early-to-mid harvested indicas usually proves interesting.

Magnify your Buds
When we speak of various highs experienced by different products, we are noting variations in plant chemistry. The chemicals we enjoy are produced within the glandular stalked trichomes, along the surfaces of the bud flowers (calyxes), bracts, leaves and stems, starting in or around the fourth week of the bud cycle. More and more of these trichomes develop as the plant matures.

I highly recommend that the serious cannabis student acquire a 30X power, illuminated magnifier. These can be found at most local electronics stores, often for under fifteen dollars. With the aid of the magnifier one can learn more about the detail of trichome development and ripeness.

As far as trichomes are concerned, the tall ones with swollen, clear, bulbous heads are what to shoot for. The denser the concentration, the greater the potency.

The Cycle of Plant Maturity
Starting in the third or fourth week of the flowering light cycle, glandular stalked trichomes will begin to form along the surfaces of leaves, flowers, bracts and stems. At the same time, more and more flowers (also called calyxes) develop into densely-packed floral clusters.

The pistils of the young flowers are bright white and turn reddish brown with age. The pistils and flowers develop from the bottom of the bud to the top. The older, lower pistils are the first to turn reddish brown. For most basic indicas this usually happens by the sixth week in the flowering cycle. It is about this time that the calyxes begin to swell.

Calyx swelling is a major indicator of peak maturity. The lowest, oldest calyxes swell first and the swelling works its way up to the highest, youngest flowers on each bud. At peak maturity about 90% of the calyxes will almost look seeded, they are so fat. Three quarters to 90% of the pistils will have turned reddish brown as well. For a basic Indica this takes well into the seventh week of the flowering cycle.

By the end of the eighth week most of the calyxes will have swollen and a surge of trichome development has coated most of the buds. It is now that the development of a very discerning palate comes into play to determine the finest harvest time. Remember - patience is a virtue and often a discipline.

The ripening signs for most Sativas are highly similar, except extended over a longer period of time. Occasionally, some Sativas have windows of peak harvest that actually open and close. That is, for a week or so the plant may exhibit signs of peak ripeness. However, a week later the plant may have a growth spurt, which lowers the trichome-to-fibre ratio and overall potency for a little while. Usually a fibrous growth spurt is accompanied by a corresponding trichome increase. Again, time and experience are the key elements in this regard.

Changes in Chemistry
As the plant matures through its window of harvest its chemistry changes. As the window closes, the more desirable compounds begin breaking down into less desirable ones. Primarily it is THC breaking down in CBNs and CBDs.

Which particular combination of chemicals is the most desirable is purely a matter of taste and choice, developed over time and with experience. Set and setting also play an important role in determining which type of product is best appreciated.

Pleasant head highs are often desirable for social occasions, whereas a narcotic late-window Indica may work better as an evening medicinal herb. The main point is that these differences are chemical in nature and more research is needed to more fully understand this phenomenon.

Another oldy but goody form the vaults
 

dutc2006

Well-Known Member
This should help a lot of new growers out. One thing that could be added is to always harvest in the morning or just before the lights come on indoors. THC levels ebb and flow throughout the course of light cycles, and will peak during the dark hours. Chopping your plant at the end of the dark cycle ensures potency is at its peak for the 24 hour day.
 

speedyseedz

Well-Known Member
This should help a lot of new growers out. One thing that could be added is to always harvest in the morning or just before the lights come on indoors. THC levels ebb and flow throughout the course of light cycles, and will peak during the dark hours. Chopping your plant at the end of the dark cycle ensures potency is at its peak for the 24 hour day.
do plants thc levels drop and raise with the light levels then?
 

smppro

Well-Known Member
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=+1]Hope you dont mind thought this went along nicely

DJ Shorts drying and curing

Proper curing can exponentially increase the quality and desirability of your harvest. The key word to remember is "slow".
[/SIZE][/FONT]

[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=+1]Dark & Dry [/SIZE][/FONT]

After cutting the plant or branch, hang it upside down in a cool, dry, and most importantly dark place. Light must be avoided from this point on. Leave the larger shade leaves on and they will gently droop and wrap around the plant, protecting the buds.

The time to the next step depends on how dry your hanging area is. This requires regular checking to determine when to proceed. When the larger shade leaves become dry and brittle to the touch it is time to gently clip them off.

Re-hang the branches in the drying room and regularly check them until the smaller leaves and bud tips become dry and brittle to the touch. It is then time to remove the buds from the branch and remove the rest of the leaf material as best as possible. This is what is referred to as "manicuring".

Now you have a few choices as to what to do with your manicured buds. The buds should still be a little wet at this point, especially on the inside, but the outer part of the buds should be starting to feel dry. Some of the buds, the smaller ones in particular, might even be smokable at this point.

If you are in a more humid area, or if the buds are still feeling heavy with moisture, you may want to try placing them on a suspended screen for a little while. This will help to hasten the drying process. Once again, regular checking to decide when they are ready for the next stage is crucial. This is also a skill that is developed more with time and experience, so practice!

[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=+1]Brown Bagging It [/SIZE][/FONT]

Once the buds are crisp on the outside but still moist on the inside it is time for the next step in the process: the paper bag. I like to use brown paper shopping bags due to their not being bleached, an unwanted chemical.

Simply fill a paper bag a few inches deep with the manicured buds. Don't pack the buds down and do not fold the bag too tight. A few small folds at the top of the bag, like a lunch bag, should suffice.

If the buds are a tad wet or if humid conditions dominate, you might want to consider cutting a few small holes in the bag, above the level of the buds, for ventilation.

As with proper manicuring, regular checking is key. The bags should be gently shaken, ever-so-carefully turning the buds, at least once a day. As the buds dry they will naturally compact into the self-preserving state that we all know and love. It is at this time that the buds can be more compacted together and the bag folded down tighter. They should now be fully smokable, though perhaps still slightly damp at the core.

The entire process, from harvest to these first smokable products, should take anywhere from two to four weeks, depending on your climate. Extremes in climate, such as very arid deserts or tropical humid areas, may take more or less time. There is no substitute for consistent, hands-on checking.

[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=+1]The Final Stage [/SIZE][/FONT]

A final curing stage, preferred by most connoisseurs, involves sealable jars. The nearly ready buds are transferred from the bag to the jar, packed in very loosely, and the jar is sealed. It is very important in the early jar-stage to check the buds at least once a day.

I like to dump them all out of the jar and gently fluff them up at least once a day at first, then less often as time progresses, usually for a week to ten days. It is important to be as gentle as possible so as not to damage too many of the resin glands. After a week or so all I do is simply open the jar and check the buds on a daily basis.

[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=+1]Watch for Mold [/SIZE][/FONT]

The main thing to watch (and smell) for throughout all of the curing process is mold. Whenever mold is found it must be dealt with immediately. The moldy bud needs to be removed, and the rest of the product needs to be exposed to a drier environment for a while.

The simplest solution is to go back one step. For example, if the mold was detected in the jar stage simply put the rest of the product back to the bag stage for awhile (after removing the contaminated product from the batch). If the mold is detected in the bag stage, go back to the screen. The screen is the driest process that I know of. If problems with the mold occur prior to this, a dehumidifier in the drying room may be the answer. Aside from watching and smelling for mold, always remember to keep the product in the dark.


[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=+1]Ready to go! [/SIZE][/FONT]

A bud is completely dry, cured, and ready for sale or consumption when the stem in the middle of the bud snaps when the bud is cracked with the fingers. The snap is easy to detect with practice. It is at this stage that the product can safely be sealed and stored for an indefinite period of time.

The longer you can stretch out this process, while also avoiding mold, the better. I like when it takes six to eight weeks from harvest to the finished product. You will be able to detect the fragrance of the product becoming more and more desirable as time progresses.

[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-1]DJ Short welcomes questions and feedback, especially in the cultivation of the Blueberry and Flo varieties. He can be contacted care of Cannabis Canada.[/SIZE][/FONT]
 
C

chitownsmoking

Guest
This should help a lot of new growers out. One thing that could be added is to always harvest in the morning or just before the lights come on indoors. THC levels ebb and flow throughout the course of light cycles, and will peak during the dark hours. Chopping your plant at the end of the dark cycle ensures potency is at its peak for the 24 hour day.

that is just a myth... plants harvested early in the morning or during light cycle will be just has potent has a plant harvest a few hours later during dark period..... its just a myth.. just like warmer temps in veg, and more blue light spec. will produce more females... it wont.. again just a myth
 

smppro

Well-Known Member
that is just a myth... plants harvested early in the morning or during light cycle will be just has potent has a plant harvest a few hours later during dark period..... its just a myth.. just like warmer temps in veg, and more blue light spec. will produce more females... it wont.. again just a myth
Can you prove that harvesting in the morning is a myth?
 

mismos00

Well-Known Member
I've read it has nothing to do with potency, but having to do with taste. (I believe I read it in High Times)

Paraphrased from memory:
"Certain chemicals that the plant uses during the day are stored in the roots at night. When the plant senses the oncoming day, these chemicals (I believe sugars and salts) are drawn up from the roots, back into the tissue of the plant, when photosynthesis starts back up."

Therefore, harvesting before lights-on reduces the amount of unnecessary chemicals in you product!

Don't know if this is settled science or not, but I'm sure there is lots of disagreement surrounding it.
 

mismos00

Well-Known Member
http://www.cannabisculture.com/articles/2570.html

There seems to be some science surrounding the potency issue as well!

(Better safe than sorry)

I'm sure if it does increase potency or taste, it wouldn't be a very large, or easily noticeable amount.

I personally, after reading another article in High Times, started trying something called Shock Ripening, where the last 3 days I keep the plant in total darkness and give it cold water. The article I read claimed this increased oil production by signaling to the plant that the its death is immanent. It seems to work, although I don't have any method of measuring oil production, except my nose... and the plants did get much more fragrant in those last days!
 
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