Do bloom boosters make your bud taste like shit?

max420thc

Well-Known Member
you cannot "force feed " a plant. :clap: thats also impossible. It dont take a lot of nitrogen to keep um green sir....
i shocked plenty of plants in my time... of course thats not what you want ever. they need all the food they will eat an nothing more. that can take more then a year to dial in a certain pheno.
Specially when your running organics.
You can run a million 1000gal pots and that tells me NOTHING about your skills... you for sure got a big head though.
maybe i got a big head for a reason ? Maybe I run a million thousand gallon pots for a reason ?
Maybe I accidently throw more weed away in the trash pile then most growers grow for a reason?
 

getogrow

Well-Known Member
maybe i got a big head for a reason ? Maybe I run a million thousand gallon pots for a reason ?
Maybe I accidently throw more weed away in the trash pile then most growers grow for a reason?
or...maybe it all needs thrown away ?:bigjoint:

argue with me on another thread , i'd be honer'd to join...
 

Dr.Amber Trichome

Well-Known Member
I found this on my computer yesterday while looking for something else and it's worth a look I think. Going to give it a try for sure next time I flower some out. Have no idea who the author is.

"A concern for all cannabis growers is to prevent mineral and fertilizer build-up in ripened buds. We often speak of “rinsing” the plants of their accumulated nutrient salts before harvesting. This process is not actually able to pull mineral nutrients out of the plant, but instead we aim to starve the plants during the last few weeks of blooming.

By withdrawing all mineral fertilizer from the root zone, either by leaching the soil with water or by chemically locking some nutrients out of solution with Epson salts (“Rinsing” chemicals), we want the final 2 weeks of growth to rely on the plant’s own internal reserves.

By growing without mineral salts, the final buds will have reduced amounts of nitrogen and phosphorus, two macronutrients known to accumulate at the growing ends of shoots. Buds with higher levels of these mineral nutrients are less aromatically flavoured, they dry “greener” and sometimes will not vaporize as well at lower temperatures. We want to dilute the mineral tissue content by growing with just water.

A way to super-charge the rinsing stage is to enhance the uptake of water by cutting ripe plants 7-10 days before harvest and then placing them in pure water. These rootless plants are treated like cut flowers from the florist that live in a vase, and they will be able to uptake much more water than when attached to their root systems. This happens since water will move up the stem by “capillary action”, which is faster than when the plant is attached to roots. In this case however, the “vase” should be a large bucket of water that is replaced everyday.

By continuing to grow the cut-stem-plants under full light and CO2 in dry air for 7-10 days, they will “drink” much more water. All the grower needs to do is replace and replenish the water everyday; they will transpire amazing amounts of water and the growth of the ripening phase will more rapidly dilute all minerals in the shoots, much more than when plants are left to ripen on their root systems.

When ripening cannabis plants this way, the green pigments suddenly fade while yellow, orange and purple pigments become prominent. Cut-stem cannabis plants placed in fresh water transpire and grow for up to 2 weeks if provided with a good growing environment, they have large internal reserves to use up for growth and are programmed to finish the ripening process with a last surge of cellular expansion.

Trichomes are the last cells to grow and mature on cannabis plants, but all living cells will use the increased flow of fresh water up the cut plant stem. Growers could also add a water soluble fragrance or essence such as vanilla extract to the water and discover how to enhance the bouquet and flavour of the dried buds."

:peace:
Noted. I’m gonna do it. Will report back with my findings.
Thanks
 
if you dont fill the buds with minerals and rocks and stuff they will fill up with dirt and water. So you might as well fill them up with npk 0-5000-6000
 

dandruff

Well-Known Member
Potassium sulfate at 227 grams per gallon for a 6% solution (with 1.5 tsp of dark brown sugar - this is the cab source that adds a little pep to the living bio's that will aid with conversion to plant availability)....at about 8ml per gallon of feed.....

I have been refining this ideal for some years now....
I do accurate measuring of my nutrient and supplement additions by weight....I measure on a scale that goes to hundredths and in fluid ml by weight...
Hi Dr,
Over the years I from what I've worked out, I too use it very close to what you've figured out.
Just curious of when you choose to use this? I use it at the beginning of week 5 on a strain I let go to 61 days, 20g week 5, 40g week 6, 40g week 7.
 

Jimmy the vest uk

Well-Known Member
Noted. I’m gonna do it. Will report back with my findings.
Thanks
I grow in nets so when i have a full canopy and there locked into the net i could literally cut the stem as close to the soil as possible remove the soil container and replace with a bucket of water as my nets will hold the plants in place and the main stem will just hang in the water perfect,im gonna try it too on one plant
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Hi Dr,
Over the years I from what I've worked out, I too use it very close to what you've figured out.
Just curious of when you choose to use this? I use it at the beginning of week 5 on a strain I let go to 61 days, 20g week 5, 40g week 6, 40g week 7.
I do 8 ml by a digital scale that does fluid measure. I start right out at the flip and run it till right to the bulking stage.
I never flipped the scale to grams. So I don't know what it is in grams.....Have to check on that...
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
I found this on my computer yesterday while looking for something else and it's worth a look I think. Going to give it a try for sure next time I flower some out. Have no idea who the author is.

"A concern for all cannabis growers is to prevent mineral and fertilizer build-up in ripened buds. We often speak of “rinsing” the plants of their accumulated nutrient salts before harvesting. This process is not actually able to pull mineral nutrients out of the plant, but instead we aim to starve the plants during the last few weeks of blooming.

By withdrawing all mineral fertilizer from the root zone, either by leaching the soil with water or by chemically locking some nutrients out of solution with Epson salts (“Rinsing” chemicals), we want the final 2 weeks of growth to rely on the plant’s own internal reserves.

By growing without mineral salts, the final buds will have reduced amounts of nitrogen and phosphorus, two macronutrients known to accumulate at the growing ends of shoots. Buds with higher levels of these mineral nutrients are less aromatically flavoured, they dry “greener” and sometimes will not vaporize as well at lower temperatures. We want to dilute the mineral tissue content by growing with just water.

A way to super-charge the rinsing stage is to enhance the uptake of water by cutting ripe plants 7-10 days before harvest and then placing them in pure water. These rootless plants are treated like cut flowers from the florist that live in a vase, and they will be able to uptake much more water than when attached to their root systems. This happens since water will move up the stem by “capillary action”, which is faster than when the plant is attached to roots. In this case however, the “vase” should be a large bucket of water that is replaced everyday.

By continuing to grow the cut-stem-plants under full light and CO2 in dry air for 7-10 days, they will “drink” much more water. All the grower needs to do is replace and replenish the water everyday; they will transpire amazing amounts of water and the growth of the ripening phase will more rapidly dilute all minerals in the shoots, much more than when plants are left to ripen on their root systems.

When ripening cannabis plants this way, the green pigments suddenly fade while yellow, orange and purple pigments become prominent. Cut-stem cannabis plants placed in fresh water transpire and grow for up to 2 weeks if provided with a good growing environment, they have large internal reserves to use up for growth and are programmed to finish the ripening process with a last surge of cellular expansion.

Trichomes are the last cells to grow and mature on cannabis plants, but all living cells will use the increased flow of fresh water up the cut plant stem. Growers could also add a water soluble fragrance or essence such as vanilla extract to the water and discover how to enhance the bouquet and flavour of the dried buds."

:peace:
This is an interesting statement. Could you supply a link to the site please? I would like the context of the site in relation to the content...

"A concern for all cannabis growers is to prevent mineral and fertilizer build-up in ripened buds. THEN DON'T OVERFEED!

I find this idea as basically ill conceived. What about immobile nutrients? He does seem to focus on the mobile nutrients. Thing is, as the plant fades, those are send to RIGHT WHERE YOUR TRYING TO REMOVE THEM! (not yelling)...Then he goes on to suggest cutting the plant and that will dilute the mineral content in the plant. Cool theory, sound logic in a way.

I have a serious problem with the actual quality growth of the plant at this point!

Your in the bulking phase. For what our purpose is. This is likely the most important growth time of the plant! By doing what this guy states....Your depriving your plant of needed nutrition, right when it is so important to the plant in the way it uses it!

I fucking Guarantee, you will yield less and be off the plants potential's in all ways.

For what we actually try to achieve.....This is horticultural nonsense!

We know that proper drying and curing will break down many of the compounds he wants to reduce buy treachery to a plant at it's critical point in growing (for our use).

The idea that the reduction of "green pigments" (chlorophyll) is a benefit is rather moot, as they breakdown in the dry and cure.....Right along with those other things he's so fond of depriving the plant..

In either form I run (organic or synthetic) and over the 40+ years of growing this plant.....I have tried more then a few idea's on this topic.......I never found any real benefit from washing, flushing, rinsing or any suggested fancy pants trick of this type to really do anything for me. In fact, in the long run, I found more harm then good. The best results have come from keeping the plant green to the end, and in the media till harvest...THEN a proper slow dry and cure!

There was this old school trick to pull your plants and then quickly boil the roots for a cpl of min....Basically your only decreasing the cure by doing this.
Riddle does a variation on this theme. Today, I practice neither, and that is simply my choice...Nothing should be read by that as it not working for what it does.....
 
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Dr.Amber Trichome

Well-Known Member
This is an interesting statement. Could you supply a link to the site please? I would like the context of the site in relation to the content...

"A concern for all cannabis growers is to prevent mineral and fertilizer build-up in ripened buds. THEN DON'T OVERFEED!

I find this idea as basically ill conceived. What about immobile nutrients? He does seem to focus on the mobile nutrients. Thing is, as the plant fades, those are send to RIGHT WHERE YOUR TRYING TO REMOVE THEM! (not yelling)...Then he goes on to suggest cutting the plant and that will dilute the mineral content in the plant. Cool theory, sound logic in a way.

I have a serious problem with the actual quality growth of the plant at this point!

Your in the bulking phase. For what our purpose is. This is likely the most important growth time of the plant! By doing what this guy states....Your depriving your plant of needed nutrition, right when it is so important to the plant in the way it uses it!

I fucking Guarantee, you will yield less and be off the plants potential's in all ways.

For what we actually try to achieve.....This is horticultural nonsense!

We know that proper drying and curing will break down many of the compounds he wants to reduce buy treachery to a plant at it's critical point in growing (for our use).

The idea that the reduction of "green pigments" (chlorophyll) is a benefit is rather moot, as they breakdown in the dry and cure.....Right along with those other things he's so fond of depriving the plant..

In either form I run (organic or synthetic) and over the 40+ years of growing this plant.....I have tried more then a few idea's on this topic.......I never found any real benefit from washing, flushing, rinsing or any suggested fancy pants trick of this type to really do anything for me. In fact, in the long run, I found more harm then good. The best results have come from keeping the plant green to the end, and in the media till harvest...THEN a proper slow dry and cure!

There was this old school trick to pull your plants and then quickly boil the roots for a cpl of min....Basically your only decreasing the cure by doing this.
Riddle does a variation on this theme. Today, I practice neither, and that is simply my choice...Nothing should be read by that as it not working for what it does.....
I am a tad bit uncomfortable with cutting the 10 days before you harvest part. What if I just harvest real close to when I am supposed to and stick them in the flower vase for a few days to a week to get some capillary flush action going on.
I don’t know what my Blue Cheese is going to taste like naturally so I’m not sure what drop of flavor enhancer would be good to add .i could put one bud branch stem into a separate vase . This would be a great science project.... to have the same plant with like 10 different vases with one bud stem in each and different drops of flavor added to each and see if there is any difference. Lol.
 
Man putting the branches into a cup of water seems like a great way to end up with flavorless buds. kinda like how a great tomato will be harvested when the plant is kinda dry but the tomato will be much more watery if you harvest it after it gets a bunch of water. I don't really think you want to be diluting anything at the end of the plants life but i also think I feed a little lighter than most so just cuz it works in my room doesn't mean the same thing will work in yours. also Ive found that old school flushing like the whole give it a bunch of water and then only water for the last 2 weeks has made buds burn into hard dark ash and that's literally the opposite of what proponents for that style will say is prevented by the tech. but i also think a lot of things like that a strain specific like how some buds are degrading every day after harvest and others get way stronger after a few months. lots of weird stuff going on.
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
This is an interesting statement. Could you supply a link to the site please? I would like the context of the site in relation to the content...
All I have is that article that I copied from somewhere months ago and saved in a text file named Cannabinoid testing lab. At the top was a link to a lab in Kelowna, BC where they will do testing for anyone with at least a doctor's medical recommendation like I have and then that body of text. I plan to use that lab to get some of my CBD plants and crosses tested eventually.

Just thought it was an interesting concept and will wait until almost the day I want to start cropping a plant before trying it. Even in DWC I keep my ppm around 300 until I chop the last buds off a plant as I crop in stages never taking the whole plant at once.

Someone mentioned boiling the roots to do the same thing but I always heard that was to drive the THC up to the buds not unlike hanging the whole plants with roots on to achieve the same aim. Bro science we know that does nothing at all to increase THC as that is in the resin glands and not part of the plants circulatory system.

One thing I want to try is to let colas slow dry standing up so the sugar leaves are drier and stand out from the bud rather than droop down and have contact with the bud. I bought a Trimpro Unplugged bud trimmer but it does not work worth a crap on fresh buds as the sugar leaves get pasted to the bud and the blades can't get at them. A few grows ago I ended up leaving a couple plants past their prime to dry still standing in the pots as I was having a particularly severe depressive episode for a month or so and just couldn't function. The buds were still moist but the outside was dry and trimmed great in the trimmer. I use the sugar leaves and the popcorn for dry sift and oils so don't care if that is cured. The buds came out nice after the regular cure so I'm thinking that if I drill a bunch of holes in a 2x4 I could chop the colas and stick them in there to dry upright for a bit then bust up the colas and run the buds thru my trimmer. Hand trimming is preferred but torture for us with arthritis in the hands and all over.

I have no opinion about that method other than it seems interesting to try to see if it has any validity. Not going to cost anything to try it out. A few bux for RO water but that can be reused on the plants or give it to the dog. ;)

:peace:
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
I am a tad bit uncomfortable with cutting the 10 days before you harvest part. What if I just harvest real close to when I am supposed to and stick them in the flower vase for a few days to a week to get some capillary flush action going on.
I don’t know what my Blue Cheese is going to taste like naturally so I’m not sure what drop of flavor enhancer would be good to add .i could put one bud branch stem into a separate vase . This would be a great science project.... to have the same plant with like 10 different vases with one bud stem in each and different drops of flavor added to each and see if there is any difference. Lol.
That would be interesting. Those flavourings used for making liqueurs would probably work well if it works at all. Kahlua or Pina Colada flavoured bud would be nice. May be enticing to children so don't let the gov't find out. ;)

:peace:
 

Dr.Amber Trichome

Well-Known Member
That would be interesting. Those flavourings used for making liqueurs would probably work well if it works at all. Kahlua or Pina Colada flavoured bud would be nice. May be enticing to children so don't let the gov't find out. ;)

:peace:
So instead of soaking the stem in water soak it in a strong flavor liquor .But then maybe the alcohol infested bud would explode while lighting it. Explode with FLAVOR!!
759B7618-88D2-47B0-A6FE-88458A926BAD.gif
 
Someone mentioned boiling the roots to do the same thing but I always heard that was to drive the THC up to the buds not unlike hanging the whole plants with roots on to achieve the same aim. Bro science we know that does nothing at all to increase THC as that is in the resin glands and not part of the plants circulatory system.
I've done side by sides with clones with boiling water, regular tap, and iced water for the finish. What I found is that boiled water on the roots makes it too smooth in my opinion. like if I was working with somebody that had lung issues I'd totally recommend it. the flavor is a little lighter also but the smoothness is pretty wild. iced water seems to make the resin stand up a little taller and maybe a little more harsh. I either use iced or regular temp water at the end myself.
 

Aqua Man

Well-Known Member
Because there is no NEED to flush "synthetic nutrients" from your soil...... It is the science of the plant here. You can not "flush" or remove nutrients from the plant by any type of flushing..

It's all in the dry and cure.....

I got asked about this in a PM by a member after seeing the disaster another thread became. He asked where to find books and papers on "flushing" and said he might try the "fade".

Here's my answer to him......I felt it needs to be seen,,,,,,again!

Your looking for post grad work. You would do better to search papers......The thing is, NOTHING in agriculture gets 'flushed" and that leads to little to no research in the area. You see, the thing is, the whole "idea" of "flushing is nonsense! Plants don't work that way! They do not take up nutrients or salts as most of you think of them! They do not "store" them in the sense you think of them! Not only that, but the nutritional "stores" in a plant are not in buds or budding or flowers! NO amount of "flushing" will "exchange" plant "stored" nutrition back "out" of the plant! Scientifically impossible by the way most of you guys understand......Ok, that's my word on "flushing". (No one listens to this in threads if they don't want to hear it or accept it.)

Now then, you propose the "FADE TO FINISH" method. Great idea in theory but, and this IS a BIG BUT! Remember when I said above that "the nutritional "stores" in a plant are not in buds or budding or flowers!" ? This shoots that theory in the ass right away. You see the main amount of stored nutrition is in either the roots and the rest in leaves and some in small amounts in transit in the phloam (the sap that actually moves the nutrients around the plant)......

Now when you "starve a plant" it will draw from it's self by actually breaking down the needed parts of it's self to do an "emergency" attempt to reproduce! (This can happen in certain plants even in veg! A kind of last ditch effort to continue the species.)

With that in mind you take the fact that the plant is not "moving" nutrients "out" of buds, but into them to speed growth and as fast as it can - "reproduce". This single minded process the plant now puts it's self on causes the plant to stress it's self. This self induced stress can, in many cases if done long enough, lead the plant to go bisexual, and produce "banana's" in a last ditch effort to reproduce and "carry on the line" and produce seeds...

Basically put, In reality you are moving nutrients that you're "attempting" to get rid of,,right to where your trying to remove them from! You are also stressing the plant in the way for "Herming" to actually happen easier!

I and many others that have tried to convey this actual plant science, are called everything you can think of and those 'impossible of understanding these facts", fight so hard against us that many of us have simply chosen to avoid the issue or don't fight to hard.

Anyway, there you are in as short and sweet and as simple/understandable as I can...

The thing is you have to understand Botany and Horticulture (and there are LOTS of subsections to those that are involved here) to truly put together the pieces of the puzzle to get your head wrapped around the idea that flushing and the "fade" don't work for what they are intended or alleged to actually do!

There you go Mods, nice, polite and to the point. (Sorry about the other thread Sunni)

There you go, Now have at it!
I'm stepping back to watch the circus.


Read this too!

https://www.rollitup.org/t/the-truth-about-flushing.409622/
Just a question on this to get your viewpoint. If most nutrients are stored elsewhere than the bud, why would overfeeding then be so much of an issue?

I personally don't flush or starve the plants but am cautious not to over feed so I stick to lighter feeding as I get later in flower. Just enough to TRY to avoid deficiencies. But if it makes little to no difference I may change that next round as up until now I have not even wanted to try keeping a heavy feeding schedule.

I'm no expert but I feel hydro grown can come very close to organic. I believe its all in the diversity of nutrient sources and the more sources the better. I also grow in a non sterile setup using beneficial bacteria and fungi. I use an external filter to provide extra media for these colonies and change 1/4 to 1/2 weekly/Biweekly of my system depending on stage of growth to help preserve those colonies.

Am I wrong to assume not all hydro is created equal and having more sources of all nutrients and beneficials would have an improved effect on the potency, taste and smell?
 

Johnny Lawrence

Well-Known Member
We are trying to duplicate nature. Duplicate it hopefully. Maybe enhance it a bit. I mentioned beneficial microbes like mycorrhizae and one asshat replies “oh, ffs”. This asshead is obviously unaware that mycorrhizae is present in 87% of plant growing soil naturally. We introduce it indoors for a reason. Is it magic? No, it’s natural and Nature. Bet that asshat can’t even tell you the role of mycorrhizae. If you want better buds read up on it. Again it’s not magic.

And ffs stop feeding late and flushing.
I'm sorry, einstein, but could you please tell me what the op grows in, growing style, medium, etc.? Thank you.

Like I already mentioned, I use beneficials, so i don't understand what your retarded droolings are based on.

I've been using mycorrhizae for decades, so please, educate me, you fucking douche.
 
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