I was trying to remember how quickly I would get mine up above 1000 back in the day and I was trying to remember how quickly I would get mine up above 1000 back in the day and I do think it was pretty quick, so I'll keep moving in that direction. Thanks again for the help, I really appreciate it.
Do these plants already have nute burn?
- Thread starter Panda79
- Start date
xtsho
Well-Known Member
I don't like to go lower than 6.0 myself. 6.0 pH is what I've always set the pH to for years. That's for flood and drain, DWC, or coco. I've never used calmag and never have any calcium deficiency.
Sif1
Well-Known Member
Fertigation – Regular foliar feeding for maximum yield
Growers who have tried foliar feeding have discovered that regular foliar feeding significantly increases their yield. The regular use of foliar feeding to increase yield is called Fertigation. To fertigate a garden, nutrients are applied by foliar feeding once per day. Fertigation is not meant to replace root-fed fertilizing, rather, it is meant to augment it.
Tangerine_
Well-Known Member
jimihendrix1
Well-Known Member
Are you giving them Calcium/Magnesium??? Magnesium is the #1 container grown plant deficiency. Add to it that weed is a high consumer of Mg, and if you dont supply, will cause problems.
Weed also likes 2x the amount Potassium vs Nitrogen, and Phosphorus
The ferts we use are
Chem Gro
Calcium Nitrate. 15-0-0
4-20-39 Base formula
Epsom Salts... Magnesium Sulfate
In this formula no need for Cal/ Mag as the Calcium Nitrate supplies a strong does of both Nitrogen, and Calcium
The Epsom Salts supplies Magnesium, and Sulfur. Mg/Sulfur are also critical for Terpene production.
This is recommended for an 8 weeks flowering strain.
In flowering weeks 2.5-4 we supply extra 0-34-52. Mono potassium phosphate. Along with Calcium Nitrate, Base Formula, and Epsom Salts.
And weeks 5-6 we up the Epsom Salts
Weeks 7-8 we cut back on all fert by 40%-50%
Its also a Myth to not supply Nitrogen during flowering.
I also hate Miracle Grow Products. For Medium, I like Promix BX, or HP. BX holds more water. BX is more porous.
All Nitrogen is, is Protein. Humans eat Protein, and out bodies convert it into Nitrogen. Plants skip eating the protein, and require straight Nitrogen.
They require an increasing amount of everything up until the last 2 weeks
Foliar feeding is also the best way to correct a Mg deficiency, just dont foliar feed under lighting. Foliar, and then turn lights off for several hours as the water can magnify the light and burn them up. Also a fan of Kelp Foliar Feed.
I also veg on 24 hours, and have for over 40 years.
Weed also likes 2x the amount Potassium vs Nitrogen, and Phosphorus
The ferts we use are
Chem Gro
Calcium Nitrate. 15-0-0
4-20-39 Base formula
Epsom Salts... Magnesium Sulfate
In this formula no need for Cal/ Mag as the Calcium Nitrate supplies a strong does of both Nitrogen, and Calcium
The Epsom Salts supplies Magnesium, and Sulfur. Mg/Sulfur are also critical for Terpene production.
This is recommended for an 8 weeks flowering strain.
In flowering weeks 2.5-4 we supply extra 0-34-52. Mono potassium phosphate. Along with Calcium Nitrate, Base Formula, and Epsom Salts.
And weeks 5-6 we up the Epsom Salts
Weeks 7-8 we cut back on all fert by 40%-50%
Its also a Myth to not supply Nitrogen during flowering.
I also hate Miracle Grow Products. For Medium, I like Promix BX, or HP. BX holds more water. BX is more porous.
All Nitrogen is, is Protein. Humans eat Protein, and out bodies convert it into Nitrogen. Plants skip eating the protein, and require straight Nitrogen.
They require an increasing amount of everything up until the last 2 weeks
Foliar feeding is also the best way to correct a Mg deficiency, just dont foliar feed under lighting. Foliar, and then turn lights off for several hours as the water can magnify the light and burn them up. Also a fan of Kelp Foliar Feed.
I also veg on 24 hours, and have for over 40 years.
Last edited:
The roots of two are down into the water and starting to look good. That mutant plant is not down into the water yet. The roots look healthy.
I upped the nutes yesterday to 800 ppm. I am only using fox farm big bloom and grow big in the ratios from their feeding schedule, so they have not gotten any additional trace minerals. My thought is to watch them a couple days, see how they do, and then flush and change out of this is not the right choice. Whatcha think?
I am only using big bloom and grow big, no cal-mag. I wondered about that. I'll look into promix for next time, I'm intrigued.
That's my experience with foliar feeding also. Always nervous about the burn.
These are on a 20-4 cycle so they have some dark time.
Tangerine_
Well-Known Member
I'd drop the Big Bloom for now and just go with your Grow Big base at around 200ppms. (is your Grow Big the regular or hydro version)
A seedling that young doesn't need much. If you're using RO water, maybe at 1ml per gal to start. And I'd get the ph down to 5.9. Measure PH and PPM again in 24hrs and note it. This might give you a better idea of whats going on and where to start.
The Big Bloom has a lot of organic acids and works great in most systems but I'm not sure about a DWC set up.
Others will disagree on the lighting but 24 on is too much for a seedling. A lot happens during lights out, one being root development.
Sif1
Well-Known Member
Coco grow, Flood drain tables, Ph from 5.8 to 6.2
Personally, I like General Hydroponics.. I'm in New Zealand and have to import it myself. That's how much I like it. I even have the 1part Maxigrow, Maxibloom and the ripening formula. At present, I have Elements a/b, Canna a/b, House and Garden a/b. Flairform Cal/mag which has iron in it also. Bat Guano, Calcium Nitrate, Calcinet it's named here from Yarra( 20kgs), MG from Yarra 20KGs, Potassium from Yarra 20kgs. I also give them a nice tea, consisting mostly of seaweed. When I flush I also finish the flush with a nice tea of seaweed, bat guano, and fulvic. Then back to the regular feed program.
Last yr for 9 months I had three 3mX 1.5m x2.2 tents.SOG 3x600 per tent. Each tent was a replica of each other. I used the same strains in each tent. Bruce Banner was the best yielder , Other strains, AK48, Gold Leaf, Chocolate Durban, Critical Kusk, Liberty Haze, Jock Horror, THC pro.
The end result was the Banner yielded 5.3 Lb for one tent. That was using just General Hydroponics. Same strain In same tents using different fertilizers as mentioned. The yield was down to 3.4Lb. The best one Banner is SOG yielded 2.9oz. I thought that was pretty good, and if I good get that per plant from 90 plants in SOG within total sq/m 4.5 = 18.75lb. That's nuts and I'm miles from that number. Say if I average 2oz per planet, well that's 12lb and 1oz per plant is 6lb. Using the 12lb which I'm not sure it could ever get will be 3.02 gms per watt. I think the reality is to get a consistent 5lb per tent and I'll be happy with that. This was interesting on the best grow I did run out of GH 3 part. So I used maxibloom one part 5.15.14 and then finished with the GH ripening formula Kool Bloom 2.45.28. That's it and that's the one that yielded most.
jimihendrix1
Well-Known Member
When my plants are done, theyre root bound in a 20 gallon container. No problem with root development with 24/0. Also get 18-24oz per plant under 1000w Hortilux HPS with Super Silver Haze.
Sif1
Well-Known Member
The way I grow I end up with a 1-inch root mat under the pots which are square and no light penetrates. I only have to flood enought to cover the roots and they crank. imagine a 3m x1.5m table with 1inch root mass between the bottom of the pot and top of the table. 6 to 8 weeks am done. i get over 1lb of finished bud per/sqm
So, an update. Thanks all for your input. After upping the nutes, and adding a bit more from the 800 on Wednesday, the new growth is looking pretty good so I'm moving towards that 1100. Debating doing a res change, they've been in this one week now, and as I build their permanent home thinking having that clean res going into it might give me a little stress relief (so that if I want to I can go a couple weeks). I used to do a change every two weeks, sometime every one. But at this size, they have so little effluence that I usually would let them go a full two. That was a much bigger res back in the day though, maybe 2x this size. I'll be doing a bit of review the forums on that. I've moved the power of the light up to a full 50 percent also and will kick that up once I'm sure they're nicely recovered. Pics to come.
Worst advice ever.... completely ignore this. Ph us ALWAYS the 1st thing to check when using hydro.
Calibrating you ph pen regularly and check your p& every 2 days for ph drift. Ph moving more than .5 out can have damaging effects.
Yeah, thanks for taking the time to reply. I would have drained and reduced otherwise. This also helped me understand why my approach to the feeding schedule (starting so low) isn't appropriate given my setup (plenty of light, fairly ideal) good conditions in the room: