Does air coming into a room via fan, force air out of the room (and other questions)

JSB99

Well-Known Member
Hey I'm curious what those black straps are that hold up your filter? Looks much better than my chains. You do clean work, kudos.
Thanks Man :)

The black straps came with the tent. I didn't even know what they were for until I got the tent up. Instructions for those tents are shit and didn't mention the straps at all.

They're just Velcro straps. Probably about 18". However, when hanging the filter, the ceiling poles would pull towards the filter because of the weight. What I ended up doing is tying the pole to the frame on the opposite side with some 550 cord. I've always hung my gear with 550 cord. Tie a square knot and burn the frays on the ends, and it'll stay secure..
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
As far as additional fans for circulation, I have 2 x 6" clip-on fans in the corners, off-center so they lightly breeze the canopy, but create more of a circular flow around the tent space.
OK. I didn't see the 2nd fan so that should be fine.

What are your opinions on venting the hood air into the attic. Since the attic's relative humidity is about the same as outside, would exhausting outside air into the attic be okay? I can add an outside vent in the attic if needed, but if not then I probably won't bother.
As your hood cooling air doesn't pick up the moisture from the tent it should be fine to vent into your attic and will help keep your house warmer in the winter months. Melt any snow off your roof too which might be suspicious to the trained eye but should be OK as you live in a low snow area in OR don't you? Love OR and the women! Medford rocks! :)

I live in northern Alberta and used to grow in a 5x12' room I built in the garage. I vented the air from the room into the attic there and when spring showed up it was raining in the garage. I grabbed the ladder and opened up the hatch to see a winter wonderland. lol
We get -30 / -40C for some of the winter and the attic wasn't heated so all that moisture just froze right away. I used a 16" fan to blow lots of air into the attic and evap out the moisture so kept damage to a minimum.

I'm planning on adding another 600w at some point. I wanted to go that route over a single 1k, but the second light wasn't in my budget yet.
Consider a light mover. Cost as much as another light and ballast but uses 9W to run the motor on my Light Rail 4.0. A 600 in that tent would work great with one. I'm running a 1000W hps on 27 plants that are getting close to cropping. 21 of them are in 7 - 2gal pots as a SoG kind of grow from seed. The light rail is for the new grow space and will be used to cover an 8x4' grow area but now I want another one so I can keep the one I got in the current grow room. :)

:peace:
 

JSB99

Well-Known Member
As your hood cooling air doesn't pick up the moisture from the tent it should be fine to vent into your attic and will help keep your house warmer in the winter months. Melt any snow off your roof too which might be suspicious to the trained eye but should be OK as you live in a low snow area in OR don't you? Love OR and the women! Medford rocks! :)
Right on (about venting in the attic)!

I love Oregon! I moved here from Phoenix in 2005 and I'll never go back lol! But one of the cool things is that it's totally legal grow in your yard. So I'm going to be taking some cuttings from the Headband clone I've got and grow them in the tent. The mother is going to go outside for the summer. It's funny, once it became recreationally legal here, you started seeing all these classes pop up on how to grow weed in your backyard :-)

Consider a light mover. Cost as much as another light and ballast but uses 9W to run the motor on my Light Rail 4.0. A 600 in that tent would work great with one. I'm running a 1000W hps on 27 plants that are getting close to cropping. 21 of them are in 7 - 2gal pots as a SoG kind of grow from seed. The light rail is for the new grow space and will be used to cover an 8x4' grow area but now I want another one so I can keep the one I got in the current grow room. :)

:peace:
I had looked into those recently for the same purpose and have wanted one for years. But the more I read, the more it sounded like they're not really worth it. There were some logical explanations why, so what I was reading made sense and I shied away from them. I top my girls and do some LST, but I don't go as far as a SOG or SCROG. I could see where a light mover could be an advantage for growing with that method. But I don't know it all and since I've never owned one, my opinion on that is just from hearsay. :)

Sounds like you have a kick-ass grow going! Very cool!
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
I figure I can cover up to twice the area with the mover and to do an 8x4 area I'd need 2 - 1000W hps instead of just the one. So that saves me 12KWH each day a 25 cents each. The motor on the light rail uses 9W so it runs for 9.3 - 12 hour days to use 1KWH. The rail cost me almost $300 so after only 105 days it's paid for itself in power savings. As I used it for my last grow by the time this one is done it's paid for itself. It's a quality product made in Colorado so I expect it to last for at least 10 years saving me tons of cash over it's lifetime.

12KWH/day x $.25 x 30days = $90/month for the one light.

Then there's the 400W in the veg room going 18 hours/day and I don't even want to do the math for that one. Getting depressed about how much it's all costing. :D

I wouldn't call it a kick-ass grow but the bud that comes out of it sure kicks my ass. lol

Getting into high-CBD plants and have a couple ready to go into the flowering room now. Once the current crop is done then I can switch back to a 400W HPS to flower with for a while.

:peace:
 

JSB99

Well-Known Member
I figure I can cover up to twice the area with the mover and to do an 8x4 area I'd need 2 - 1000W hps instead of just the one. So that saves me 12KWH each day a 25 cents each. The motor on the light rail uses 9W so it runs for 9.3 - 12 hour days to use 1KWH. The rail cost me almost $300 so after only 105 days it's paid for itself in power savings. As I used it for my last grow by the time this one is done it's paid for itself. It's a quality product made in Colorado so I expect it to last for at least 10 years saving me tons of cash over it's lifetime.

12KWH/day x $.25 x 30days = $90/month for the one light.

Then there's the 400W in the veg room going 18 hours/day and I don't even want to do the math for that one. Getting depressed about how much it's all costing. :D

I wouldn't call it a kick-ass grow but the bud that comes out of it sure kicks my ass. lol

Getting into high-CBD plants and have a couple ready to go into the flowering room now. Once the current crop is done then I can switch back to a 400W HPS to flower with for a while.

:peace:
The issue that kept coming up was the amount of light getting to the plants. While you may be covering more area, the light intensity lost on plants while the light is at a maximum distance cancels out the extra light given to other areas at the closest distance.

That's just what I gathered from what critics had surmised. But you know how it works first-hand, and I'm not going to try and tell you it's a waste lol. If it didn't work, I'm sure you would have ditched it a long time ago :)
 

JSB99

Well-Known Member
Looks good, keep tweaking!
From here I'd say to check your Ballast, it looks like it needs to be rotated to vent hot air up, it will run cooler.
Took your advice. Flipped it. I also mounted it up high so when my fan blows on the ballast to prevent any heat buildup, it exhausts towards the ceiling. I'm tall so I can reach it :)

 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
The issue that kept coming up was the amount of light getting to the plants. While you may be covering more area, the light intensity lost on plants while the light is at a maximum distance cancels out the extra light given to other areas at the closest distance.

That's just what I gathered from what critics had surmised. But you know how it works first-hand, and I'm not going to try and tell you it's a waste lol. If it didn't work, I'm sure you would have ditched it a long time ago :)
Who knows. Right now it's only covering about 5x6 and I'm liking it but I guess I'll eventually find out. :D

:peace:
 

Lucky Luke

Well-Known Member
Nice tidy set up.

Just wondering if you could simplerfy it a little and have

Scrubber- ducting- cool tube- ducting- ceiling (or where ever you want to vent clean warm air to)

 

JSB99

Well-Known Member
Nice tidy set up.

Just wondering if you could simplerfy it a little and have

Scrubber- ducting- cool tube- ducting- ceiling (or where ever you want to vent clean warm air to)
When you read this, know that I am in no way butting heads with you. I'm just chatting :)

Sure, I could have set it up the way you described. That's the way I had always done it before. But there are specific reasons why I set mine up with the isolated hood air, and I mentioned them earlier.

I'm a little curious about why you have your scrubber that low. Usually you want to have it up high to remove the warm air at the top. If you are trying to remove the heat right at the light, and you have your scrubber on yo-yo's, I'd shorten up the duct between the scrubber and the hood. All that extra ducting causes drag and reduces your air flow. 6" clip-on fans pointed right under the glass removes standing heat so it's not warming up your canopy.

With my hood air isolated, the glass on my hood is always barely warm, if not cool, to the touch at all times. I have very little radiant heat under the hood, and my fans idle quietly on "Medium" at their highest. IMHO, I set up my room, tent, and hood the "proper" way. An air-cooled hood is meant to be hooked up the way I have it for heat management, and co2 injection if I could seal the tent.

I'm a little surprised people are asking why I set mine up the way I did. You mentioned "simplifying" my setup. What I did, in essence, is simplify the heat management. It didn't cost much more to do it this way, and it's much easier on the fans, which will make them last longer. Mostly, I didn't want to be exhausting conditioned air from the house, whether it's from the ac or the heater. I always thought that was really inefficient.

Tell me what you think...
 

Lucky Luke

Well-Known Member
When you read this, know that I am in no way butting heads with you. I'm just chatting :)

Sure, I could have set it up the way you described. That's the way I had always done it before. But there are specific reasons why I set mine up with the isolated hood air, and I mentioned them earlier.

I'm a little curious about why you have your scrubber that low. Usually you want to have it up high to remove the warm air at the top. If you are trying to remove the heat right at the light, and you have your scrubber on yo-yo's, I'd shorten up the duct between the scrubber and the hood. All that extra ducting causes drag and reduces your air flow. 6" clip-on fans pointed right under the glass removes standing heat so it's not warming up your canopy.

With my hood air isolated, the glass on my hood is always barely warm, if not cool, to the touch at all times. I have very little radiant heat under the hood, and my fans idle quietly on "Medium" at their highest. IMHO, I set up my room, tent, and hood the "proper" way. An air-cooled hood is meant to be hooked up the way I have it for heat management, and co2 injection if I could seal the tent.

I'm a little surprised people are asking why I set mine up the way I did. You mentioned "simplifying" my setup. What I did, in essence, is simplify the heat management. It didn't cost much more to do it this way, and it's much easier on the fans, which will make them last longer. Mostly, I didn't want to be exhausting conditioned air from the house, whether it's from the ac or the heater. I always thought that was really inefficient.

Tell me what you think...
Didnt mean to get you offside.

Its not my set up its a pic i copied from google to show what i was describing. I do like the duct clamps he has, would make light height adjustment and ducting adjustment very easy. Lots of people do hook up this way. Id imagine that due to them using a cool tube the tent would not be very warm at all (close to inside ambient temp) and you could run ur scrubber anywhere in the tent, especially if your running osculating fans and neg air pressure. But up high would be better for a couple of reasons ,I agree.

I like your set up. Its clean and tidy and i was just throwing an idea out there. I dont think you will have problems with heat either way and you did say you were not going to CO2.
 
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JSB99

Well-Known Member
With my scrubber connected...





My ceiling, room exhaust fan. When I get my window ac, I'll seal the floor vent from the house ac. I installed a door sweep and threshold so that the door is fairly sealed. This 4" fan will run every 30 minutes to exhaust the spent air into another room. The air intake in the closet will be the only source of air, and I have a filter on it. That'll help with the bugs. The air has to be refreshed because the window ac doesn't exchange air, like a home's central ac.

 

JSB99

Well-Known Member
Didnt mean to get you offside.
No man, not at all.

It's funny, the reason I started asking you questions was because of the odd way it's set up in the picture LOL. Now that I know it's not yours, it makes a little more sense :)

I think this isn't a common setup with small grows because of how you go about getting that fresh air for the hood. The most ideal place is from under the house, where the air is usually cool. But not everyone is willing to cut a hole in the floor of the house. Getting it from another room in the house would pose it's own challenges, as far as noise and exhausting house air outside (and increasing the power bill along with it), That's just a hypo, so I could be wrong :)
 
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Lucky Luke

Well-Known Member
I wish i had your patience and attention to detail. Its a really tidy set up.

I have trouble keeping the cords untangled..:)
 
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