Does this look like genetics or something else?!?!

Rickypsimer

Well-Known Member
Hey y'all these are 5 gallon recycled soil pots , peat based I been doing ,EWC, fish hydrolysis water only until last week. I hit them with a feeding of fox farm big bloom . It's helping with the bulk but is it contributing to this yellowing I say no because all 5 the same gorilla zkittles (from seed) . I do let it get kinda cold in the room at night around 65 . Could it be under watering?. Or am I overthinking this it's genetics the rest look great.
 

Brettman

Well-Known Member
I don't know what genetics looks like, but it looks like cannabis to me.

Try taking a photo with the grow light off and using your camera flash. Then tell us what issue you think you see and all the associated details with your grow.
Oh that’s what he’s asking…. Yes it’s definitely cannabis.
 

Rickypsimer

Well-Known Member
There all the same genetics 2 of the five are yellowing . So do you guys think that it could be a slight genetic difference that these two are exzibiting
 

Richard Drysift

Well-Known Member
If “Genetics” is like the catch all for an unknown problem then giving compost tea is the fix-it-all solution. Plants look ok to me; maybe they are a little hungry or ph is sliding off. If these plants were hermed out in week 2 with no light leaks present then maybe mutant DNA could be to blame but it’s more likely an absorption issue or a simple lack of N in mid bloom.
A good compost tea should help green them back up. Try giving a round of aact without the BB; just EWC, molasses, and maybe some kelp meal. Top dressing w/EWC, kelp and/or fish bone meal could also help but may take a few weeks to break down & get to work.
In my exp liquid fish is pretty good stuff but it’s fairly mild even if given heavy; provides meager npk. I had very similar issues starting out with living soil; you’ve got to recycle and amend it a few times to get it to that coveted supernatural level of microbial/fungal activity where all you need to do is water them. Next time you build your final size bloom pots consider adding a high N layer and/or fertilizer spikes to prolong viability of your mix especially in small containers. I like using a combo of ewc, chicken manure, insect frass, and crushed oyster shell along with some fully amended and recycled soil in the bottom few inches. Adding granular mycorrhizae in the hole in contact with roots at each transplant is another thing you should look into doing if you currently are not. Ensures your soil pot is fungal dominant which helps avoid most absorption (ph) issues in the first place. Once my pots are filled and mulched I push in 2 Jobes AP spikes into each container 180 degrees apart. They feed for 8 weeks; perfect for bloom phase. Usually try to give an aactea at start of bloom and then again around mid flowering (day 30-40) so that’s all they get besides water for most of the cycle. It’s actually a challenge to keep a container of soil active for more than 6+ weeks or so; usually when microbial activity begins to fade so does the soils ability to keep ph in the proper range for absorption.
 

Rickypsimer

Well-Known Member
If “Genetics” is like the catch all for an unknown problem then giving compost tea is the fix-it-all solution. Plants look ok to me; maybe they are a little hungry or ph is sliding off. If these plants were hermed out in week 2 with no light leaks present then maybe mutant DNA could be to blame but it’s more likely an absorption issue or a simple lack of N in mid bloom.
A good compost tea should help green them back up. Try giving a round of aact without the BB; just EWC, molasses, and maybe some kelp meal. Top dressing w/EWC, kelp and/or fish bone meal could also help but may take a few weeks to break down & get to work.
In my exp liquid fish is pretty good stuff but it’s fairly mild even if given heavy; provides meager npk. I had very similar issues starting out with living soil; you’ve got to recycle and amend it a few times to get it to that coveted supernatural level of microbial/fungal activity where all you need to do is water them. Next time you build your final size bloom pots consider adding a high N layer and/or fertilizer spikes to prolong viability of your mix especially in small containers. I like using a combo of ewc, chicken manure, insect frass, and crushed oyster shell along with some fully amended and recycled soil in the bottom few inches. Adding granular mycorrhizae in the hole in contact with roots at each transplant is another thing you should look into doing if you currently are not. Ensures your soil pot is fungal dominant which helps avoid most absorption (ph) issues in the first place. Once my pots are filled and mulched I push in 2 Jobes AP spikes into each container 180 degrees apart. They feed for 8 weeks; perfect for bloom phase. Usually try to give an aactea at start of bloom and then again around mid flowering (day 30-40) so that’s all they get besides water for most of the cycle. It’s actually a challenge to keep a container of soil active for more than 6+ weeks or so; usually when microbial activity begins to fade so does the soils ability to keep ph in the proper range for absorption.
Thank you rich
 
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