Does this look like Potassium deficiency?

I have been having some issues. I am using Adcanced Nutrients ph perfect Micro, Grow and Bloom. I am thinking it is Potassium deficiency from what I have gathered. How ever. I don't know my ass from a hole in the ground about growing as this is only my second grow lol. So any help is appreciated.
 

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EliteCultivation

Well-Known Member
It's more likely to be a phosphorus deficiency.
With potassium the tips and edges are usually more uniform with the brown or yellowing discoloration.
Phosphorus however, has random blotches and discoloration all over the leaves, often accompanied by red or purple stems. pretty much exactly what your plant is displaying.
In vegetation state phosphorus will be most present in the older and lower leaves.
 

Trod420

New Member
I have been having some issues. I am using Adcanced Nutrients ph perfect Micro, Grow and Bloom. I am thinking it is Potassium deficiency from what I have gathered. How ever. I don't know my ass from a hole in the ground about growing as this is only my second grow lol. So any help is appreciated.
If you need some help through your process/stages can send me message!. Id be glad to help you out.
 
Yeah don't go loading up on the nutes just yet.. first step is to make sure your water has a pH of 6.2-6.7 as phosphorus is absorbed though the roots best at this pH range. After that is complete see how your plants react.
I haven't given it anything extra yet. Still just giving the usual nutes. Advanced nutrients PH perfect is supposed to be good for that, I thought at least. I am wondering if it's due to the temp being cooler. I read that cool temps can cause issues with phosphorus being absorbed. Could this be the issue. In the tent the temp is sitting around 18-19. It's been super cold here and hard to get the basement warmed up.
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
AN user for 20 years here. How much of each are you using in how much water. DO NOT pH the nutes after mixing them up! Pens can't read the pH in that pH Perfect stuff properly. Trust the tech!

pH your water if it's too high to around 7 then add Micro first then the rest. CalMag should go in first if you use it then Micro. I only use RO or distilled water as our tap is crap.

What are you growing them in? I use ProMix HP or DWC.

:peace:
 
AN user for 20 years here. How much of each are you using in how much water. DO NOT pH the nutes after mixing them up! Pens can't read the pH in that pH Perfect stuff properly. Trust the tech!

pH your water if it's too high to around 7 then add Micro first then the rest. CalMag should go in first if you use it then Micro. I only use RO or distilled water as our tap is crap.

What are you growing them in? I use ProMix HP or DWC.

I found a great spot to download FREE POT BOOKS. I downloaded a grow bible first and got lots more. Books look great and complete like the real ones I have here. No web site but just a page of links. Just right click on what you want and then "Save Link As" to download so they don't open first as many are 50+ megs. They got lots. Enjoy.

:peace:
Thanks a ton for the reply. I am using 10 ml of each to 5 gallons of water. I am using tap water that comes from our cistern. Typically it's rain/snow water in there. I am using Promix HP as well. Also, I have them in 10 gallons fabric pots. Giving them about 2 litres each per feed.
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
Thanks a ton for the reply. I am using 10 ml of each to 5 gallons of water. I am using tap water that comes from our cistern. Typically it's rain/snow water in there. I am using Promix HP as well. Also, I have them in 10 gallons fabric pots. Giving them about 2 litres each per feed.
Don't part water them. Soak the whole thing when you water until it can't hold no more and after a half hour remove any runoff. Then allow to dry out really good until the pots feel really light before soaking again. Quick way to remove water from the tray without a shop vac is roll up a towel and lay it around the base then wring it out into a catch tray. Helluva lot quicker than a turkey baster. :)

10ml/5gal is a really low dose. HP has no nutrients so they only get what you feed them. 5gal=20L and 1 - 2ml/L would be a safe dose but not every watering. With plants that size in such big pots a good feed once with up to 3 waterings with water only would be the way to go. As they get bigger and their roots are everywhere in the pots then they can be fed every 3 waters then every 2nd. I always used 2ml/L with healthy fast growing plants so you would want to give them 20 - 40ml of each each for a good initial feed. 2ml/L is half strength as AN says give them 4ml/L at max dose.

They're just hungry and don't need to be searching for water to grow lots of roots. When the roots hit dry spots the tips die but that makes the roots branch more like a branch will when you top it. Still better to have the whole pot soaked to saturation after each watering.

Should find out about your water as much as possible. Who fills the cistern? Surface runoff is usually pretty clean but can be acidic so at minimum you want the pH and ppm of the water. I only use RO to take the guesswork out of what my water may be doing.

:peace:
 
Don't part water them. Soak the whole thing when you water until it can't hold no more and after a half hour remove any runoff. Then allow to dry out really good until the pots feel really light before soaking again. Quick way to remove water from the tray without a shop vac is roll up a towel and lay it around the base then wring it out into a catch tray. Helluva lot quicker than a turkey baster. :)

10ml/5gal is a really low dose. HP has no nutrients so they only get what you feed them. 5gal=20L and 1 - 2ml/L would be a safe dose but not every watering. With plants that size in such big pots a good feed once with up to 3 waterings with water only would be the way to go. As they get bigger and their roots are everywhere in the pots then they can be fed every 3 waters then every 2nd. I always used 2ml/L with healthy fast growing plants so you would want to give them 20 - 40ml of each each for a good initial feed. 2ml/L is half strength as AN says give them 4ml/L at max dose.

They're just hungry and don't need to be searching for water to grow lots of roots. When the roots hit dry spots the tips die but that makes the roots branch more like a branch will when you top it. Still better to have the whole pot soaked to saturation after each watering.

Should find out about your water as much as possible. Who fills the cistern? Surface runoff is usually pretty clean but can be acidic so at minimum you want the pH and ppm of the water. I only use RO to take the guesswork out of what my water may be doing.

:peace:
Awesome. Thanks for the help. I have been following the AN calculating system which was saying only 10 ml of each for 5 gallon. I will also test my cistern water. Thanks a ton for the help. Hopefully that solves my issues.
Again, Thanks a ton for the help. I want to correct the issues before I switch them over to flower.

Also, is there any other nutes that I should be feeding it? I have only got the 3 part AN.
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
Also, is there any other nutes that I should be feeding it? I have only got the 3 part AN.
I've used Big Bud since they invented it. I like to feed a half dose of it a week before flipping to flower then give the other half at the flip. Then a regular dose the watering after that. And every 2nd watering until the end of week 5 for a strain that finishes in 9 weeks. Some times you don't know for sure when a plant will finish until you've grown it out at least once. Plants from the same strain grown from seed may finish at different times too but clones should be the same.

Most P/K flower boosters are higher in P than K compared to BB as it's 0-15-35 with 10%S, 20 amino acids, ascorbic acid, (Vitamin C), and citric acid. A while back I won some Greenleaf nutrients in a contest here. I got 2kg of the MegaCrop base nutes and 1kg each of the Green Terra Big Up p/k which is 0-52-34, Rock Steady which is K alone at 0-0-62 and the Carbo which is pure dextrose sugar. Carbs are used to feed the micro-herd, (Good bacteria and fungi more useful in organic growing), so not that important when using hydro nutes in a soilless media like the HP. You never want to add carbs to something like DWC.

I've been reading lately that higher P is more important in early flowering then demand drops off after the stretch and the plant wants more K so I may use the GreenLeaf p/k early on and switch to the Big Bud after the stretch.

Something else I do after the stretch is to feed the plants Lucas Formula style. That just means to not use the Grow and use twice as much Bloom as Micro. Basically a 0-1-2 ratio of the 3 parts which are referred to as GMB, (Grow, Micro, Bloom). This is too reduce the amount of N in later flowering as too much N inhibits flower growth and if the plant needs more it can steal it from the older fan leaves as it's a mobile nutrient. I like to see my fan leaves begin to yellow the last few weeks as long as it's not too fast and mainly just older leaves.

Extra S is good in later flowering to promote resin development and that's a good time to add more Epsom Salts. S is the 'secret ingredient' in bloom boosters and it's hard to overdose with it. A tsp/gal is good enough and the drug store stuff is fine and cheap.

Most of the other supplements AN and everybody else sells is too expensive and not worth buying for maybe a 10% larger yield. A couple years ago I got a 500ml bottle of the Bud Factor X for free and after trying it would not go out and buy it. Almost $100/L and I got my 3 gallons of the 3-part for $124.

Just the 3-part alone will grow decent buds but I would boost up the amount of Bloom used when you flip to flower if not using any kind of bloom booster. Feed at a ratio of 2-2-3 maybe just before the flip and until the end of week 4 then go Lucas style to the end would work well.

The best aspect of a 3-part nute is as you learn more about the different stages of plant growth you can easily tailor the amount of each you give the plants to feed them better tho just giving them a ratio of 1-1-1 all the way will work too.

:peace:
 
I've used Big Bud since they invented it. I like to feed a half dose of it a week before flipping to flower then give the other half at the flip. Then a regular dose the watering after that. And every 2nd watering until the end of week 5 for a strain that finishes in 9 weeks. Some times you don't know for sure when a plant will finish until you've grown it out at least once. Plants from the same strain grown from seed may finish at different times too but clones should be the same.

Most P/K flower boosters are higher in P than K compared to BB as it's 0-15-35 with 10%S, 20 amino acids, ascorbic acid, (Vitamin C), and citric acid. A while back I won some Greenleaf nutrients in a contest here. I got 2kg of the MegaCrop base nutes and 1kg each of the Green Terra Big Up p/k which is 0-52-34, Rock Steady which is K alone at 0-0-62 and the Carbo which is pure dextrose sugar. Carbs are used to feed the micro-herd, (Good bacteria and fungi more useful in organic growing), so not that important when using hydro nutes in a soilless media like the HP. You never want to add carbs to something like DWC.

I've been reading lately that higher P is more important in early flowering then demand drops off after the stretch and the plant wants more K so I may use the GreenLeaf p/k early on and switch to the Big Bud after the stretch.

Something else I do after the stretch is to feed the plants Lucas Formula style. That just means to not use the Grow and use twice as much Bloom as Micro. Basically a 0-1-2 ratio of the 3 parts which are referred to as GMB, (Grow, Micro, Bloom). This is too reduce the amount of N in later flowering as too much N inhibits flower growth and if the plant needs more it can steal it from the older fan leaves as it's a mobile nutrient. I like to see my fan leaves begin to yellow the last few weeks as long as it's not too fast and mainly just older leaves.

Extra S is good in later flowering to promote resin development and that's a good time to add more Epsom Salts. S is the 'secret ingredient' in bloom boosters and it's hard to overdose with it. A tsp/gal is good enough and the drug store stuff is fine and cheap.

Most of the other supplements AN and everybody else sells is too expensive and not worth buying for maybe a 10% larger yield. A couple years ago I got a 500ml bottle of the Bud Factor X for free and after trying it would not go out and buy it. Almost $100/L and I got my 3 gallons of the 3-part for $124.

Just the 3-part alone will grow decent buds but I would boost up the amount of Bloom used when you flip to flower if not using any kind of bloom booster. Feed at a ratio of 2-2-3 maybe just before the flip and until the end of week 4 then go Lucas style to the end would work well.

The best aspect of a 3-part nute is as you learn more about the different stages of plant growth you can easily tailor the amount of each you give the plants to feed them better tho just giving them a ratio of 1-1-1 all the way will work too.

:peace:
Man thanks a ton for the help. I really appreciate it. I am a complete rookie and I am realizing it more and more. Some of what you said makes me feeling like I am in grade 12 physics again hahaha. I really do appreciate it though. I look forward to learning to grow quality bud and have the knowledge you do.

Any chance I can send you a message of i am having doubts about AN?

Thanks again.
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
Just ask in here so others can share in the discussion. For every member who reads a post there are many lurkers who do as well.

Lots of good info in the following link.

I found a great spot to download FREE POT BOOKS . I downloaded a grow bible first and got lots more. Books look great and complete like the real ones I have here. No web site but just a page of links. Just right click on what you want and then "Save Link As" to download so they don't open first as many are 50+ megs. They got lots. Enjoy.

:peace:
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
I am curious: how or why not?
It's something to do with the buffers in it or some shit. I've seen AN videos and their pH meters seem to read it OK but tho my pen would read fine in everything else it jumped around when trying to read the new tub I was setting up. So I just never bothered testing it again and never had pH problems. Such a time saver! :)

:peace:
 

cannabineer

Ursus marijanus
It's something to do with the buffers in it or some shit. I've seen AN videos and their pH meters seem to read it OK but tho my pen would read fine in everything else it jumped around when trying to read the new tub I was setting up. So I just never bothered testing it again and never had pH problems. Such a time saver! :)

:peace:
Interesting. I have no explanation.
 

JohnDee

Well-Known Member
Looks like a p k and mag deficiency to me up the nutes add epsom salt and microbes to your soil. Then wait.
I agree that the plant is showing multiple deficiencies. So that plus nutes given leads me to believe that you're feeding too much causing lockouts...so do as Bernie said...and maybe drop the nutes a tad.
JD
 
Just ask in here so others can share in the discussion. For every member who reads a post there are many lurkers who do as well.

Lots of good info in the following link.

I found a great spot to download FREE POT BOOKS. I downloaded a grow bible first and got lots more. Books look great and complete like the real ones I have here. No web site but just a page of links. Just right click on what you want and then "Save Link As" to download so they don't open first as many are 50+ megs. They got lots. Enjoy.

:peace:
Thanks for all the help. For today's feed I upped the nutrients like you said. I gave 40 ml of each to 5 gallons. I also didn't do a half feed. I fed it as you advised. I hope this helps.
On me quick question though. You mentioned Cal/Mag should I be feeding that as well since hp has no nutrients?
 
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