Drooping leaves

Hey guys, i have a problem with my plants.

im into the 22nd day and i noticed that before 3 days that i watered them they started drooping, with a quick search at google found out that its maybe from overwatering them. The next day the leaves where in the right position and i was happy again, but today the leaves are drooping again and i didnt do anything in between.

PS1. Watered them with 2 lt + 2 ml of G-M-B
PS2. Temp Max 25/26c Min 19,5c
PS3. 11lt bucket (black) 3lt bucket (brown)
PS3. DIY LED Panel 120watt



 
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TriPurple

Well-Known Member
Adequate drainage is crucial. Drooping a little after watering is normal. Yours do look a little over droopy, if the roots sit in water they will die within a day or 2.
 

az2000

Well-Known Member
I orded one, but i need to know if the problem is from overwatering or not! :)
Best way to know when to water is by the weight of the container. It should feel alarmingly light.

Just to learn how light is too light, you can wait until the leaves droop (from lack of water). Heft the container to see what it feels like. The leaves will bounce back in 30 minutes after watering. After that, try to get close to that dryness without reaching the drooping stage.
 
I have another question. do i need to prune the White Widow Automatic (in the black bucket) so the leaves cant touch the soil?
 
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I got the hydrometer today and i check all the plants and they all needed water, so i water them and noticed 2 spots (inside the red cycles on the photos). Is it from overwatering or its a new problem?

 

az2000

Well-Known Member
IMO, the older, lower leaf wouldn't bother me. I get that and attribute it to unproductive (shaded) leaves being sacrificed.

The tips on the new growth in the other photo could be a result of a ph problem (maybe arising from keeping the soil too wet, not letting the ph swing through wet/dry). Boron? It could be nute burn if you did anything different with nutes recently.
 
When i watered them at 1st of the month i've put 2ml of the G-M-B / 2lt of water.

Today i used a hydrometer/ph meter for soil and the pH levels were near 6,7. After that i watered the plants with 6,5ph water. Is that a mistake?
 

az2000

Well-Known Member
Boron is unavailable at higher phs, so that might make sense if your soil is higher than normal. Usually mine drifts between 5.6 (wet) and 6.6 (dry). If I flush salt buildup out, it might be 5.8-6.8. If I have salt buildup, it might be 5.4-6.4.

If you have one of those inexpensive ($12 US) soil ph meters, they're not very accurate. I use a $60 Control Wizard Accurate 8 soil probe. Still not perfect. Think of it as a trend. What you see over multiple readings (higher, lower).
 

The guys at the video are talking about the same problem as my plants.

"Question: My plants are drooping and the bottom leaves are yellow and dying off. I flushed her out and she popped back up and started looking healthy. But two days later she’s drooping again."

and their answer is "Because if you watered her and she sprouted back up and then two days later she’s drooping again—more than likely she’s root-bound. So you may want to transplant her before you flip her."

So maybe i need to transplant my plant too?
 

az2000

Well-Known Member
So maybe i need to transplant my plant too?
Whatever you do is a learning experience. If it were me, I would just flower and be done with it. Take what you've learned so far and apply it to a new grow sooner. (But, if you repot the larger one, you'll learn something from that too. Might not be positive. Could stress and cause a hermie. But, that's how we learn.).

I've never worried about overgrown (root bound) conditions. I just transplant from cup to 1gal, and switch to 12/12 when the size is right. I usually want a larger plant, so I transplant to 3gal (and 12/12 when the size is right). If I wanted larger, I'd transplant to 5gal. I only transplant to obtain the size I want, not due to root-bound conditions. (I never even consider it.).

Maybe others would encourage you to transplant. I'm just saying I never give it that much thought.
 

THE KONASSURE

Well-Known Member
yeah mate trim your lower growth up and cover your soil with perlite or something like that

Bugs will get into your plants roots and such

A water ph pen is good as you can check the ph of what your feeding and also check the ph of the run off coming out of the pot after you feed/water them

There looking good but personally I like a good run of empty main stem from the soil to the leaf I normally remove the 1st 2 to 8 nodes depending on what kinda space and time I have

and get good airflow around the leafs if you don`t already that helps a lot

you could repot but you have to look at pot size vs plant size sometimes you just make a bad choice

I like to veg in cheap plastic bag pots as I can cut them open to do a very easy transplant into the nice hemp sacks I like to flower in

Also super pots or super root pots are good the ones that you can undo and open cos the come apart can make transplanting a large plant a lot easier, we often do this stuff alone with no help and a big plant is easy to bump and damage

Also I like to let them get dry so its easier to get them out of the pot
 

az2000

Well-Known Member
I wouldn't mess with the auto. If a leaf pulls off without much force, ok. But, I'd let it does it's thing. It's not good to stress them. LST is dubious. It's a tradeoff between the benefits of opening up more light, creating a uniform canopy. I do it with autos in transition to flower, bending over some stretching colas. But, that's all I do. It's possible removing a sapping leaf at the bottom could be more positive than negative. I always let them fall on their own (or with an easy tug).
 
Damn, i got some answers from other forums too to trim them and i did, i hope that i didnt stressed em enough...

We will see!
 
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