Drying questions

spicy_seed

Member
No. If you do, you'll be surprised at how quickly they over-dry.
Couldn't agree more.
To strong blow, wrong position of your fans, specially inline exhaust will have a way greater impact on proper long dry than humidity.
Our last dry was 12 plants in 2x4 tent all time tightly closed except 1 vent and 4'' exhaust on a roof of the tent but just to run some15 sec each hour to avoid air stagnation.


Perhaps sterilizing the room and EVERRRYTHING in it with strong H202 is something you may look into in case infections are your concern?
 
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spicy_seed

Member
14 days today.... still not dry! Guess I better do what Aaron suggested & drop below 60% RH?
Speaking of drying we have learned the hard way that rH should be taken only as general guide.
In practice the rule is 10-14 days dry in constant temperature and humidity.

Going a bit deeper take a look below at the test we did comparing 5 different sensors.
In addition to these 4 on a picture there was also Inkbird showing 70%.

Beside the issue of each sensor showing different value you will also get different reading depending where you place the sensor in your room/tent.
There is also so many other factors like temperature, wet/dry trim, buds size and many more. Air circulation is big one - same as you would add a fan while drying laundry. Snapping branches could be very misleading too if you stick to it so much. Its easy to overdry the buds in a day where branches will still need a week to "click"...

If its still wet after 14 days you definitely need to drop humidity slightly down to the point where you notice buds being a bit more dry day by day.
Its a matter of working out a sweet spot giving you slow dry which should be gradually visible in appearance of whatever is hanging right there :)

Blessings.


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DoubleAtotheRON

Well-Known Member
Just a thought since you're on a long dry, when you peel the buds away from the stem, do it under a LED flashlight in a dark room to make sure you don't see any puffs of smoke (mold) coming out. If all is clear after doing the top main colas, you should be fine.
 

DrDukePHD

Well-Known Member
Just a thought since you're on a long dry, when you peel the buds away from the stem, do it under a LED flashlight in a dark room to make sure you don't see any puffs of smoke (mold) coming out. If all is clear after doing the top main colas, you should be fine.
You usually peel the buds off the stem before curing? I just thought you snip the stem off at the bottom of the bud, doh!
 

Fishmon

Well-Known Member
I'm on Day #7 drying at 63-69F & 60-64% RH.
*best I can do with my ac & dehum*

The buds hanging from roof in a 4x4 tent.

AC Infinity 6" inline fan is exhausting outside @ speed level 4.

Should I run a small fan pointed at floor as well, or will the inline exhaust keep enough air circulating?

Thanks!
Kinda late to the party but I'll toss in the experience I've had during my 1st few dries. Summer vs winter dries are 2 entirely different animals given the ambient temp/humidity to be dealt with. I prefer winter as it's easier and cheaper to add humidity and heat than remove them. Sounds like you're able to hit lower temps than I've been able to so that is a plus. My theory is this...the warmer the air the faster the dry. Thus adding more humidity should slow the dry. This is a solution to a problem that you don't presenly have but you may during the summer. As for your original query as to an additional fan in the tent I personally think it's beneficial. If I'm an air molecule and I've been pulled into an enclosed space down low and riding a current upward and out the opposite top side all my fellow molecules are pretty much doing the same thing navigating this mass of hanging herbaceous material along the way. Everyone runs into the first obstruction then haphazardly finds the exit up and out with few ever having bothered to go through the furthest clusters. I have a small blade type tower fan that can go to a very low air speed. I put it on the opposite side from the intake aimed on an angle at the rear wall hopefully disrupting the incoming air enough so that it discourages a uniform movement across the material. It makes sense to me and have had good uniformity drying this way so I haven't tried alternatives. A low exhaust speed is good. The 6" on speed 4 may be a tad much. Suppose would need to consider total cfm on high and cipher the cfm per speed to ballpark the volume passing through. My 2x4x5 dry tent with a 4" fan is usually set on 3 or 4.
 

OhNo555

Well-Known Member
QUOTE="cannabisguru”
here ya go... read this article my friend. It will help you with your journey...


Curing your post harvest blues..
Ah yes. Harvest time has come. The buds are swollen, the trichomes are the exact color you have been waiting for. The smell is rich, and soon becomes almost overpowering as you tear into that first bud with shiny new scissors. Not too many of us really like big trim jobs, but we endure. We endure because we know that in a few short weeks we will be enjoying the fruits of our beloved labor.

Of course, we all know that this is not the finish line. On the contrary, this is only the beginning of the race...



The Cure
Oh yes, the cure. Many times has this been judged the most important part of the growing experience, and with good standing reason. This is the point where all our patience and skill will shine through, or take a dive into the miserable oblivian of smoking mere mediocre herb. Botch things here and it will all be for not. Though a perfect cure can help cover up some small discrepancies during your grow, having the best growing conditions on earth will not earn you a free pass through this hallowed gate my friend.

So, how's your cure? Perfect? Consistantly perfect? Are you a Cure Master? Hmm.. Prove it. What?

Did you know that your cure can be broken down into a mathematical equation? What if I told you that you can attain the perfect cure, the best cure possible, every single harvest? And what if it was as easy as painting by numbers? And what if this could totally affect the way you cure, wether you are a newbie, or an old seasoned head?

The following is not something I discovered myself. I was first introduced to it from a guy named Simon. All though he initially taylored it to cannabis he, of course, didn't really discover it either. We most likey owe that to producers of tobacco. Their techniques are somewhat different but since they are curing a plant intended for smoking..... Well, it's just simply a matter of numbers.. I have, in turn, borrowed this concept and brought it here. I have eliminated what I deemed unneccessary and added some of my own insights/experiences. I have also condensed the original information the best I could (as it was quite haphazardly introduced, and many facts/ideas were addressed in later installments) in my own words (which has, in turn, increased greatly in size), but all credit must be afforded Simon for bringing these techniques, in their raw form, to public scrutiny. This, by no means, suggests that the work (either the original, or here) is complete. There are assuredly many more facts, discoveries and techniques left to be uncovered. That said, let's begin..

Cannabis is an annual weed. It's purpose in life is singular and pure: Continued propagation. The female cannabis plant, through it's propagating qualities is naturally the ultimate focuse of this forum, along with many others just like it. In order for the female cannabis plant to fulfill her destiny, and to fill our jars, like all life on earth she needs water. Her flowering buds are full of it. It is the point of drying them to release this water. The cure, on the other hand, is a bit more complicated. In contrast, the cure is an attempt to delay this release of water over time. It is this juggling act that is in dire need of deciphering and it is this thread that will show exactly how it is done. It is said that the bud of a cannabis plant continues to live for a certain amount of time after it is cut from it's stem ( per Ed Rosenthal), in some cases a couple of days. I personally think this is crazy. This is akin to cutting off a chickens head. A lot of good it did the chicken.. Unless your bud has the ability to sprout instant roots and walk itself to an empty pot it is, for all intensive purposes, d, e, a, d, dead. This, by no means, insinuates that there are not living cells and processes to be found, but without the ability to replenish water, the drying has begun. Even though the bud has begun it's dry cycle, there is still plenty of water in it to allow various cells to continue to function. Since the main stem has been cut they have no choice but to pull water and nutrients (in the form of clorophyl and other complex carbohydrates) from stores in the bud and process them into simple carbohydrates (simple sugars) in order to continue to function normally. The more complex carbohydrates that are broken down and the more simple carbohydrates that are used and the more moisture that is lost, the better your buds will be. Within this process is the secret to the perfect cure..


First we will break it down into phases. This seems easiest as you can refer back to any point of the cure by phase. Try to think of it like landing an airplane...

Phase one: The dry. This is kind of like preparing to land. The first thing you want to do is come to altitude and lower your landing gear. Basically, once you cut your bud, you need to decide what to do with it. Most of us go ahead and trim it now. Once it is trimmed to our liking, the bud is hung to dry.

Phase two: The pre-cure. This is somewhat like landing your airplane. The trick is to set it down on the runway at just the right angle as you begin to reduce your speed. This is where the mathematics come into play. What you are looking for here is the "feel". When your hanging bud begins to "feel" like it is drying out, but the stems are still flexible, it is time to jar. Don't worry, we will revisit this phase in more detail in a bit..

Phase three: The cure. Now your airplane is on the runway. This is where you are focusing on your instruments and applying the brakes. This is the actual part of the cure. It is a benefit to keep your bud in this stage for as long as possible. Actually, this may be a little misleading as some folks may like some cures better than others. In other words, this is the point where smells and flavors can change drastically. Depending on what it is you are after will dictate exactly how long you keep this phase in check. But only you can decide what you like.

Phase four: Storage. Well, the flight is over, time to put the airplane away. We have finally reached a point where the curing process has greatly slowed down and it is safe to store your bud.



Hygrometer is needed.

Phase one. 70% RH: This starts out just like any other time you have done it. Once you have harvested your bud and trimmed it to your liking, hang it in a cool dark place. This is where we will part from tradition. Allow it to hang until the buds begin to feel like they are drying (note the temps and rh as this will rarely be the same during subsequent harvests). They will start to lose their "softness" in favor of a slightly crispy texture. We don't want to allow it to dry until the stems snap. THIS IS WRONG! We want the stems to be flexible. Not totally soft, but not snapping, either. If allowed to dry until the stems snap we risk it drying too much and losing an opportunity to take full advantage of the cure window. You see once the bud reaches the 55% RH range, the cure is dead. No amount of moisture added will revive this. If you are a brown bag dryer you can still use this technique, although I no longer do. I feel it is unneccessary at this point in the drying process. Just make sure you do not over dry. Also, this is a perfect time to calibrate your hygrometers with your new calibrating kit. This phase may take anywhere from 2 to 7 days depending on ambient temp, RH and strain, etc. It is important to be right on top of this phase. Sometimes we will notice thinner stemmed buds getting done quicker. It is ok to take these first and put them in the jar. Just screw the cap on very loosely until the bulk of the bud joins it.
 

OhNo555

Well-Known Member
Phase two: The pre-cure. This is somewhat like landing your airplane. The trick is to set it down on the runway at just the right angle as you begin to reduce your speed. This is where the mathematics come into play. What you are looking for here is the "feel". When your hanging bud begins to "feel" like it is drying out, but the stems are still flexible, it is time to jar. Don't worry, we will revisit this phase in more detail in a bit..

Phase three: The cure. Now your airplane is on the runway. This is where you are focusing on your instruments and applying the brakes. This is the actual part of the cure. It is a benefit to keep your bud in this stage for as long as possible. Actually, this may be a little misleading as some folks may like some cures better than others. In other words, this is the point where smells and flavors can change drastically. Depending on what it is you are after will dictate exactly how long you keep this phase in check. But only you can decide what you like.
 

OhNo555

Well-Known Member
Phase four - 55%+ to 60%RH: Even though a true cure is far from over, your buds are truly ready to smoke if you wish. They are also ready to face long term storage. As stated before, the cure dies at -55%. It's ok for the cure to be dead if you have reached your desired cure level as later remoisturing can easily bring that bud back into your prefered smoking range. But, you can also continue the cure for long time periods and the trick to this is to stay above the 55% level. Unfortunately even claimed 'air tight' jars will allow bud to continue losing moisture over time. The trick here is to guarantee air tightness. Simon has suggested that he jars in air tight jars and double vacuum bags it as a way to ensure cure integrity. I am less picky. It is a good idea, though not neccessary, to leave a hygro in the jar and check it from time to time. I would start with once a week for the first month then, if everything is stable, once every month after that should suffice.
 
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