DSG's: Organics 101

DOVESPRINGSGROWER

DOVESPRINGSGROWER

Well-Known Member
[FONT=&quot] Smart gardeners know that soil is anything but an inert substance. Healthy soil is teeming with life - not just earthworms and insects, but a staggering multitude of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms. When we use chemical fertilizers, we injure the microbial life that sustains healthy plants, and thus become increasingly dependent on an arsenal of artificial substances, many of them toxic to humans as well as other forms of life. But there is an alternative to this vicious circle: to garden in a way that strengthens, rather than destroys, the soil food web - the complex world of soil-dwelling organisms whose interactions create a nurturing environment for plants. [/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]
This is for people who simply want to grow healthy, vigorous plants without resorting to chemicals.[/FONT]
 
DOVESPRINGSGROWER

DOVESPRINGSGROWER

Well-Known Member
[FONT=&quot]There is a food-web that the soil has in order to help feed your Plants. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]An incredible diversity of organisms makes up the soil food- web. They range in size from the tiniest one-celled bacteria, algae, fungi and protozoa, to the more complex nematodes and micro-arthropods, to the visible earthworms, insects, small vertebrates, and plants. Without this cycle it would be difficult to provide plants with the necessary nutrients they need. Try to add as much organic matter as you can in order to feed soil organisms. These organisms will break down organic matter and will eventually feed your plants. Here are some charts breaking down the food web.
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DOVESPRINGSGROWER

DOVESPRINGSGROWER

Well-Known Member
Anyone is allowed to add anything they think is important or not mention in Organics 101. I hope to get Ohso and other active members to give their input to help people better understand and apply organics to their grow. I will try to add as much information about the topic as possible. Please bare with me and enjoy ORGANICS 101.
 
DOVESPRINGSGROWER

DOVESPRINGSGROWER

Well-Known Member
Composting involves mixing yard and household organic waste in a pile or bin and providing conditions that encourage decomposition. The decomposition process is fueled by millions of microscopic organisms (bacteria, fungi) that take up residence inside your compost pile, continuously devouring and recycling it to produce a rich organic fertilizer and valuable soil amendment.
 Ingredients that can make good compost include:
[FONT=&quot]

Materials to Compost[/FONT]​
[FONT=&quot]Browns = High Carbon[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Greens = High Nitrogen[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]Ashes, wood
Bark
Cardboard, shredded
Corn stalks
Fruit waste
Leaves
Newspaper, shredded
Peanut shells
Peat moss
Pine needles
Sawdust
Stems and twigs, shredded
Straw
Vegetable stalks[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]Alfalfa
Algae
Clover
Coffee grounds
Food waste
Garden waste
Grass clippings
Hay
Hedge clippings
Hops, used
Manures
Seaweed
Vegetable scraps
Weeds*[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]*Avoid weeds that have gone to seed, as seeds may survive all but the hottest compost piles.[/FONT]
​
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT][FONT=&quot]Materials to Avoid[/FONT][FONT=&quot]

• Coal Ash - Most ashes are safe to mix into your compost pile, but coal ashes are not. They contain sulfur and iron in amounts high enough to damage plants.

• Colored Paper - Some paper with colored inks (including newsprint) contain heavy metals or other toxic materials and should not be added to the compost pile

• Diseased Plants - It takes an efficient composting system and ideal conditions (extreme heat) to destroy many plant diseases. If the disease organisms are not destroyed they can be spread later when the compost is applied. Avoid questionable plant materials.

• Inorganic Materials - This stuff won't break down and includes aluminum foil, glass, plastics and metals. Pressure-treated lumber should also be avoided because it's treated with chemicals that could be toxic in compost

• Meat, Bones, Fish, Fats, Dairy - These products can "overheat" your compost pile (not to mention make it stinky and attract animals). They are best avoided.

• Pet Droppings - Dog or cat droppings contain several disease organisms and can make compost toxic to handle.
• [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Synthetic Chemicals[/FONT] [FONT=&quot] - Certain lawn and garden chemicals (herbicides - pesticides) can withstand the composting process and remain intact in the finished compost. Poisons have no place in the natural micro-community of your compost pile.[/FONT]

 [FONT=&quot]
Below are the average C:N ratios for some common organic materials found in the compost bin. For our purposes, the materials containing high amounts of carbon are considered "browns," and materials containing high amounts of nitrogen are considered "greens."[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
Estimated Carbon-to-Nitrogen Ratios[/FONT]​
[FONT=&quot]Browns = High Carbon[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]C:N[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]Ashes, wood[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]25:1[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]Cardboard, shredded[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]350:1[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]Corn stalks[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]75:1[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]Fruit waste[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]35:1[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]Leaves[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]60:1[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]Newspaper, shredded[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]175:1[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]Peanut shells[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]35:1[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]Pine needles[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]80:1[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]Sawdust[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]325:1[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]Straw[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]75:1[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]Wood chips[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]400:1[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Greens = High Nitrogen[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]C:N[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]Alfalfa[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]12:1[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]Clover[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]23:1[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]Coffee grounds[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]20:1[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]Food waste[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]20:1[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]Garden waste[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]30:1[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]Grass clippings[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]20:1[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]Hay[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]25:1[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]Manures[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]15:1[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]Seaweed[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]19:1[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]Vegetable scraps[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]25:1[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]Weeds[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]30:1[/FONT]
​

 [FONT=&quot]Compost is finished when it's a dark, rich color, crumbles easily, and you can't pick out any of the original ingredients. It should have a sweet, earthy smell. If it's too stringy or lumpy, it may need more time.






[/FONT]
 
M

melkor33

Member
I'm listening. I won't be able to set up composting anytime real soon, but I just added that to my game plan for the near future.
 
tea tree

tea tree

Well-Known Member
nice, try reading "Teeming with microbes" by jeff lowenfels. Changed my life. Made me garden smart at last. Bg hydro has it now, lol.
 
DOVESPRINGSGROWER

DOVESPRINGSGROWER

Well-Known Member
tea tree said:
nice, try reading "Teeming with microbes" by jeff lowenfels. Changed my life. Made me garden smart at last. Bg hydro has it now, lol.
Click to expand...
I just finished that book last week well it was a torrent and someone had scanned the pages. It was a good read and that is one my resource I' am using for this thread.
 
jmckirdy

jmckirdy

Member
thanks for that, im setting up a compost for my garden and was wondering if its ok to add old potting mix with it for reuse. will that lessen the nutrient content of the compost? will the compost help regenerate the old soil.
 
DOVESPRINGSGROWER

DOVESPRINGSGROWER

Well-Known Member
jmckirdy said:
thanks for that, im setting up a compost for my garden and was wondering if its ok to add old potting mix with it for reuse. will that lessen the nutrient content of the compost? will the compost help regenerate the old soil.
Click to expand...
Compost isn't really a stay alone soil it is more of a soil amendment or can be used in teas. I always reuse my soil. If you add the soil to compost bin just add a lil more of what you use or just let sit. The Microbes will do there job in the old soil over time thus improving compost.

Composting Old Soil
you can add some old soil to compost bin let it sit for couple months the way you would regularly, but mix with new soil for amendment.

Reusing and Regenerating your old soil:
Add compost to old soil and other additives such as compost and worm castings, let sit for a month, so it cooks and regenerate then can be used for your new plants.
 
DOVESPRINGSGROWER

DOVESPRINGSGROWER

Well-Known Member
It has been awhile since I posted but lets get this thread started again. :clap:


Guano
 Any excrement from birds, seals, or bats, with value to humans as fertilizer, may be referred to as guano. The reason guano is an ideal fertilizer is its chemical make up. Because the guano exists deep inside caves, it's protected from sunlight and wind, and doesn't break down as quickly as other organic matter. It also has beneficial fungiand bacteria, which act as a natural fungicide to protect plants from disease.

Cow, Horse or Sheep Manure
Are the most common organic manures available. Elephant manure (when the circus is in town) may be used in the same way as Cow, Horse and Sheep Manure. These manures may be used by mixing with soil or by adding them to compost. When fresh, they may be mixed with water and the resulting manure tea applied to the soil around the plants. These manures, when dried, may be also mixed with potting soil. Because these manures do not contain a high proportion of plant food frequent applications are required.

Poultry Manure
 This is available from Chickens, Duck, Geese, Turkeys, Pigeons, Parrots, and so on. Poultry manure may be used fresh when mixed with soil or as a poultry manure tea after first being rotted for a short time in water. Poultry manure is more concentrated than the cattle manures mentioned above as it is high in nitrogen. Poultry manure should be stored in a closed container as it is foul-smelling.

Worm Castings
 Worm Castings add active microbial life to your soil while slowly releasing valuable trace minerals and important plant growth enhancers. Being high in available nitrogen, phosphorus, calcium, and many other minerals are known to have an extraordinary effect on plant life. Castings improve the soil structure and increase fertility making them the most enriching soil conditioner available.

Bone Meal
 This organic fertilizer is made from the bones of animals which have been used as food. It contains nitrogen but is valued more for its phosphorous and calcium content.

Blood Meal
 This is a concentrated organic manure. It is high in nitrogen and must be kept in an airtight container as it is hygroscopic (attracts water). When this happens,

Fish Meal or Fish Emulsion
This is a good fertilizer, but tends to be extremely fishy smelling. However, it is a good source of nitrogen and some phosphorous.

Seaweed
With beach access available in most of Florida, this is a fairly easy manure to obtain at no cost. Seaweed is an excellent source of calcium and potash. Prior to using seaweed though, be sure to wash it thoroughly to remove the salt. Dig it directly into the soil or compost it.
 
grobofotwanky

grobofotwanky

Well-Known Member
Great post man. Loved the tea thread as well. No doubt you will have alot of influence in my current grow. As far as contributing my 2 cents to this thread. I recently purchased a mycorrhizae additive http://www.wormsway.com/detail.aspx?t=prod&sku=RM400&AC=1, and I've been adding it to everything from my new ganja seedlings, to my houseplants, to my compost pile, and they all love it. hmm, maybe that was only 1 cent but oh well.
 
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