ducting and cooling help

matatan

matatan

Well-Known Member
Little Tommy said:
This is more like what you need. You will be glad you did. You will need a larger fan (more cfm) if you are going to connect it to a carbon filter for odor control.
Click to expand...

yea i just researched those cheaper "booster fans" vs the more expensive inline fans. those booster ones are just that boost, there good to compliment or if your ducting a long area.
also this particular fan is going to be used to exhaust the heat from the lights, and heat my bedroom lol. so starting in my br - light - light - fan - br exhaust.

then when its flowering time or when the odor presents itself i will get a carbon filter with its own fan blowing inside the flowering room... like someone advised me to do... YOU lol
just ordered, should arrive in about a week.:eyesmoke:
 
legallyflying

legallyflying

Well-Known Member
that HTG fan is a piece of shit, much like many things that HTG sells. You don't need a vortex fan pushing 400 CFM or anything but you do need a decent fan. I have had very good luck with the inline booster fans from hydrofarm...

http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=Drp&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&q=in+line+booster+fan+hydrofarm&bav=on.1,or.&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=8767297165508339277&ei=a3ldTb7YFJK8sAOQ_oHuCg&sa=X&oi=product_catalog_result&ct=result&resnum=4&ved=0CEYQ8wIwAw#

They are inexpensive at $50 and they are quality made with nicely formed plastic fan blades. I would not get smaller than the 8". The 8 throws a nice amount of air, the 10" is a little intimidating.

I use the 8" as a powered outlet and the 10" as a powered inlet. This gives me a positive pressure in the room which helps for a variety of things. It also prevents me from creating a huge passive intake/outake (which should be about 3x the size of your powered inlet/outlet) and creating with light leak issues. Painting the inside of a 90 degree elbow flat black and painting a small area of any white surface near the exit point of the elbow will sufficiently block light.

Hope this helps.
 
matatan

matatan

Well-Known Member
update, that 4in htg fan is working just fine, keeping temps steady at low 80s high 70s. definitely a bit loud tho.
my humidy is low in the 20s.. how do i fix that?
 
MakeYourself

MakeYourself

Member
Anyone ever used the Tjernlund M-6 or M-8 fans? I just order a 6" and and 8" from ebay. Really good price and they are supposed to be nice and quiet!
 
Little Tommy

Little Tommy

Well-Known Member
matatan said:
update, that 4in htg fan is working just fine, keeping temps steady at low 80s high 70s. definitely a bit loud tho.
my humidy is low in the 20s.. how do i fix that?
Click to expand...
I had the same problem and solved it with a humidifier. Some folks hang wet towels in the room or buckets of water to evaporate. I think you will need a humidifier for veg as you are in the low 20s.
 
legallyflying

legallyflying

Well-Known Member
Depends on your temps if you want to be precise. If no co2 the veg and flower in the 70's is good. 60-70% rh in veg and first weeks of flowering is fine. Once buds are forming keep it below 50 at all times. 40 is better, 30 is likely too dry and stomata may constrict to conserve moisture if it's hot in there. Your night time temps are just as important. Shoot for no more than 5-10 degrees diff
 
Little Tommy

Little Tommy

Well-Known Member
I concur with legallyflying. These are general rules of thumb and are not etched in stone. I keep my flowering space at 30-35% and it works well for my setup. I have never had moldy buds yet.
 
matatan

matatan

Well-Known Member
just went out and got me a humidifier from kmart for 30 bucks, going to start in the flowering room cause those ladies are like a week or 2 from flush, then up the veg room. to bad i just got that 600w hps, they reeeeeally could have used that light. o well live and learn, new ladies will be MUCH better in every possible way. vid below of the room 80% complete, still need to completely get rid of light leaks and add carbon filter
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4qjjvKdWYRs
let me know what you guys think!!

stretching was because i didnt have any lights for the first 4 days.... lost one of the sour kushs in the transplant it just fell over and broke ;( hopefully the rest will be ok.. and hey maybe that sour kush will regrow ? hopeful thinking lol
 
M

medicine21

Active Member
Two adjacent rooms sealed with no outside air exchange:

1. 13x10' flower room with 3000W LED, A/C, CO2 propane burner, dehumidifier, heater, 8" Vortex on carbon scrubber duty always on.
2. 8x8' veg room with 400W LED with just oscillating fans

What will it take to ensure that the temp, humidity and CO2 between the two rooms are IDENTICAL, given all equipment is in the flower room only? Will an always on 6" Vortex pulling FROM veg room and TWO 6" passive air holes do the trick?
 
V

vic420

Active Member
best way to make a divider wall out of panda film.. cut ur panda film..make sure u cut it double the size u need.. with a couple extra inches.. in there.. then take it .. lay it down white side down.. grab a nice dark sheet.. fold that in half.. then fold the panda film in half.. on top of it so u have 2 white sides .. then i find it easier to leave an inch of sheet out of the top.. and fold that over the panda film.. and staple to the ceiling or door area. or were u want it. let it fall.. then.. what i do is .. go grab some aluminum tape .. and tape the top.. were the staples are.. both sides.. and then i tape 1 side to the wall or door too so only 1 corner can move makes more light proof that way..

works well for me . i have my 10x10 flower and right outside the door of my 10 x 10 is my veg room. .. and no light leaks at all.. !!!! make sure u go into the room while its dark.. with some reflective/aluminum tape.. and fix all ur light leaks..
 
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