Dwc Scrog

tech209 said:

damn man good f'n job .....i think ur convince'n me to go dwc scrog on my next grow................

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Hey man thanks allot... Yeah has been awesome for me so far... Give a try...about the only change i would make is probably Veg a little longer.. Fill it like 1 or 2 squares (bend) and then flower. I bet it will be Awesome.

Anyway good luck and start on that scrog!

hey whats up genfranco, no i havnt topped it yet. if you could tell me how that would be awesome.

brandnewlighter said:

hey whats up genfranco, no i havnt topped it yet. if you could tell me how that would be awesome.

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Dude... I was hoping you didnt take me up on that... hahaha... ok so check this out... Its in german... but check out the pics and see if you dont get the jist.

Christian Florestans Marijuana Guide - rygegrej.dk

Let me know

brandnewlighter said:

hey whats up genfranco, no i havnt topped it yet. if you could tell me how that would be awesome.

Click to expand...

This other page has alot of good info...

[FONT=Times New Roman, Times, serif]PRUNING FOR YIELD
Pruning is the action of manipulating the number of node regions (potential bud sites) that your plant creates and has nothing to do with the thinning process. Cutting a plant at the stem will automatically result in Hopping'. For this reason, plants that are thinned via cutting will end up growing more than one top cola. Topping is discussed in the next section. This section covers pruning to increase yield.
By using stakes you can also control and separate branch growth after pruning.

This plant has generated more than eight new node regions after pruning.
Prune cuts are made using clippers held at a 45-degree angle to tbe shoot being cut. For every stem or branch that you prune, the cut area will develop two more branches.This process is natural: just look at any tree to see how the stem divides into branches which sub-bivide into more branches which divide into new shoots and leaves. Marijuana plants grow branches out from the stem. Any filling out occurs when new leaves and branches develop at the node regions. Some of these branches may develop new shoots, but these are somewhat smaller and thinner and don't support as much bud growth. If you prune your plant you can make it more like the example of the tree.

Recall that Indica plants tend to be smaller than Sativas. If you learn to prune your plant properly you can produce small bushy Sativa plants that grow in tiny spaces. Without pruning, a Sativa plant can stretch to five feet or more.

Keep in mind that there is a limit to how much you can prune a marijuana plant. If you prune the stem, it will split in two. You can prune both of these new stems and end up with four stems. You can try to prune each of these four stems to create eight stems, but results will depend on the strain and its genetically predetermined branching limit. You might be able to prune some of the lateral branches, but again, if the plant has reached its threshold it will not produce more branches. All strains are different in this respect. [/FONT] [FONT=Times New Roman, Times, serif]TOPPING
Some marijuana growers will take a pair of clippers to the top of their plant just above the last branch formation during the third or fourth week of vegetative growth. The top is removed by shearing it away at the stem. What happens next is that the main stem splits off in two or more directions, creating a V-shape at the top of your plant. The end result after flowering is two or more top colas instead of one. Now, two top colas instead of one does sound appealing and some growers have even managed to force a plant to grow more than six top colas using this method. Unfortunately this topping method of pruning doesn't always lead to better results.

Depending on the strain and the growing environment, the 'topped' plant may produce two small top colas instead of two big ones. Also, each strain has a threshold for bud production that cannot be improved upon because it is a genetically predetermined factor. On the other hand, some plants when fully grown without topping do not reach their threshold. The strain Blueberry is a good example of this. If you grow Blueberry without topping you won't achieve maximum bud production from that plant, but if you top the Blueberry, you will. Other strains aren't so flexible and the two top colas will simply share the same volume of bud that a single cola would have produced on the same strain.[/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman, Times, serif]It's advised that you keep in mind that pruning for yield using the topping method is strain-dependent and experiment carefully with this pruning method. Do this with 2 out of 10 plants in every grow. You'll find in time that during this vegetative prune you will be able to shape your plant. Plants are generally pruned three to four weeks into their vegetative cycle, but can be pruned sooner or later or more than once.

Pruning during flowering is not advised as the plant will be forced to divert its energy from bud production into branch and leaf production. This results in a slower rate of bud growth. For optimal growth finish your pruning well before flowering.

FIM Technique
There is a topping method known as the FIM technique. If you push the leaves apart at the very top of the plant you should see a small bud (not flowering bud but an actually leaf bud). Use a pair of nail clippers to pinch off about 3/4 of the bud. This should result in more than two top colas being developed. In a single FIM clipping you can produce up to eight new top colas.
The origins of this technique are humorous. As the story goes, FIM was discovered accidentally when a grower messed up a topping exercise. FIM stands for: "Fuck I Missed".
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sick bro thanks

usefull info man cheers!!!

H2O2!


OK guys... so for you that have been following i would like to say thanks. I beleave i have developed root rot. The other day i found white bubbles in the rez and the ph was above 7..

I checked the roots and they were all mushy and falling apart. They are white but they have this slime on them and its breaking down the roots. I freaked out of course... I drained the rez (which real poor planning on my end makes it impossible to move the unit)

Basically its all mush in there i ripped out all the balls of gew and put them in a glass jar for testing and such... the problem with not being able to move the rez is that the drain i installed does not allow all of the water to be drained. It leaves about a gallon or so in there... so i filled and flush it like 2 times with ro water... This was a couple of days ago so im a little more relaxed now.. Anyway, Even after changing nutes/rez multiple times i was not able to keep the ph down. It seems that this gew makes the ph high... i mean like in the 7's man...

After searching fro products and posting (although nobody helped there)...i found H2o2 threads..

hydrogen peroxide 3% is what i used... Advanced nutrients recommended it.

CHeck it:

Thank you for your inquiry

If the problem that you are dealing with is root rot, you can get rid of it by adding hydrogen peroxide to the reservoir. If using the 35% concentration (HyOx) mix at 3 mL per liter. If using the 3% concentration usually found in pharmacies mix at 30 mL per liter.

I hope that this is the answer that you are looking for. If you have further questions please contact us via e-mail or by calling our tech support toll free line at 1 800 640 9605.

Regards

AN Tech Support



Now this looked pretty generic as i got the same email 6 hrs later from probably another tech. SO basically use H2o2 often if you are using NON-ORGANIC nutrients in your rez.


I hope this helps someone as i never knew about it. (i thought i had read enough shit ..lol..)

Still learnin

My plants arent doing any better.. if anything all of the leaves are drooping.. the buds are still sticking up.. but it looks like its dying... the water didnt go down at all... its not drinking water.... i must have destroyed my roots.... I put the ph in the low 5's and by the time i check it in 12 hrs its up to almost 7... Some leaves are getting yellow drying out bloches.... my girls are dying....

damn, sorry to hear that man

So after a few days of trouble shooting, draining, cutting of bad roots, cleaning,, drain again.. It was really crazy... it seemed that i just couldnt get the ph stable under 7.... the root rot is really high in ph and i had to use an aquarium net to get all of the little chunks ... i drained again and added 1000ppm of nutes... Also as per recomended by AN... i added 30 ml per liter of water of hydrogen peroxide... that was like 600+ ml... Anyay.. since then the plants on the right have stopped dying and the ones that are way gone on the left are looking better beleave it or not.

So here are the pics... its amazing how fast the plant gets damaged..


Just FYI... the two plants on the left have barely any good roots left... we will seeeeee










So good luck to everyone....

two major lessons learned: Temp in rez is highly important & HYdrogen peroxide is the shit.

Thanks for sending me the link to your grow.

Bummer dude,
about the sugar.

I have never heard of anyone doing that before.

You can still have a decent harvest.

Keep the light 12/12
and follow the AN calculator.

I would lower the nute load for a week or so,
until they recovered a little more.

I have used honey with RO,
on the last day,
but I wouldn't use it all the time.

We all learn from our mistakes.

I have the AN H2o2.
On the bottle
it has 2.5ml/GL
not 3ml/ltr.

I have overdosed WW with H2o2,
My yield was low on that plant.

My chiller has saved me
from needing to use H2o2
in the Space Shuttle.

A chiller's a big investment
but will pay off in yield,
and less headaches during the grow.

I grow dwc without a chiller
in a room that is 66ºf
so my rez stays below 68ºf

If you can't keep the rez temps down,
then hempy buckets may be the best method of growing hydro.

I made an aero bucket grow
with temps as high as 80º,
but the yield was still low,
although I was able to avoid Root Rot.

Once I added the chiller,
my grows improved immensely.

Turn on the A/C.

.

thx earl for the info... So im guessing that in a hot environment is better to go with soil no?.... Hempy buckets?...

Found out about hempy buckets.... very simple... so no air to the roots?.... wouldnt it be better if i hooked up the air hoses i allready have into that small 2 inch rez ...wouldnt that be better for the roots?... or is that kinda what causes the rot as well?

Well since we mentioned it i might as well post the info i found... this is not me ...

The Hempy Bucket Hempy Bucket
Hi every one i thort id add this system of growing i use and have used from the erly to mid 80s , As most of you that know me will all ready know that im a belive in simplicity and things that work and i only realy state facts that i have experencet from hands on.

I like the hempy bucket becouse of its simplicity and the price of the system (ITS FREE ) to make and has no moveing parts that can fail and once the plant has started its root system you can basicly water and forget it for 2 days or 3 depending on temps and you can grow eny strain from sativa to indica in it .

I basicly got the idear from my first hydro kit i ever got that was a tamato hydro kit and i found it realy easy to understand ,It was basicly an aquponic set up and the guy i had got it from i whent back a few years later telling him about my creation and how i got it from his idear and the look on his face and smile sed it all ,Iv spoken to a few people in the hydro industry about it and they all tell me it wont work it will couse root rot so on well there all rong becouse this method works and they say a picture is worth a 100 wards right lol.

I AM NOT SAYING THIS METHOD IS THE BEST BUT What i am saying is its a option and a easy cheep way to grow hydroponicly and nothing more, I have tryed a lot of methods and have all ways gone back to this.


To make a hempy bucket is simple all you need to do is this

Get your self a bucket eny colour but clear as you will end up with algy forming as the nutes react to the light .

The size of the bucket can very from 1 gal (4lt) to 5gal (20lt) ruffly i personaly like useing a 10 lt bucket and have had up to 14 oz yield from a single bucket but it depends on the strain and given phino .

Once you have your bucket then get a drill and drill a drain hole in the side of the bucket about 2 inch from the bottom , The drain hole can be around 7/16.

And the medium i use is perlite/vermiculite at around 3 to 4 parts perlite to 1 part vermiculite.You can use volcanic rocks but personaly i found the perlite / vermiculite a lot better in meany ways.

All you need to do now is basicly add the rooted clone or seedling water with nutes and thats it,I would water it daily until the tap root and root system has headed down to the res but once you see a desent growth rate id then start to water every 2 days.

The only thing rong with it is you need to hand water and you get run off from the drain hole thats it and as far as checking your PH well the only time you need to do that is when you mix your nutes i like useing a PH of 6.2 PH .

If you want to ask me questions feel free .

If you want to see the resolts of the hempy Bucket let me know and il tell you were to go to see them.

Like i sed im not stateing this methods is the best just saying its a option and a free one and it works and works well ................hempy



Thx for the info... will give it a try for sure the next round.

Good grow. I plan to do a DWC ScrOG myself so I'm subscribed. My plans are to stay with NL or start with bagseed if I can find some good ones. I have a nice indica brewing right now but I doubt that it'll be robust enough to do much with. Subscribing to stay in touch.

!

genfranco said:

Found out about hempy buckets.... very simple... so no air to the roots?.... wouldnt it be better if i hooked up the air hoses i allready have into that small 2 inch rez ...wouldnt that be better for the roots?... or is that kinda what causes the rot as well?

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ROOT ROT starts out because of a bacteria that is present in the air and infects the plants medium when temp and light etc ....are present to make it a pain in the ass that it is to get rid of .......more air stones,and,... low res temps keep (65 F*) "pythium" from starting in the first place, it would be wise to be counterproductive -meaning do something "before" it starts.Like using an enzyme or hydroguard (bacillus subtillis) Also with that small of a res. you needed to change all of that every 5 days,....it looked like to me that your res may have been 2-3 gallons at best so ,I might have used a 5 gallon bucket and every 3 days make a new batch and leave it in the 5 gall bucket to sit a day then every 5th day change the res with " HYDROGUARD AND OR AN Enzyme.Once you get pythium (roort rot) its hard to get rid of and hydrogen peroxide is no "cure" just a help for the problem no cure ,you need something that eats the dead roots and turnss that into a usable protein for the plant,peroxide cant do that,just helps get rid of some of it , good luck

beleave it or not the rez holds 7 gallons... It owuld hold another 1 maybe 2 but i have then just below the baskets.... Yeah i have read all about its easier to prevent... but with being a noob this is the kind of thing you go through and learn... hehehe.. thx for the help ..

So here is the update... Im pretty bumbed out about what happened but hopeful to start a new one with the mandala hashberry that should be coming...hehehe.... So here are the pics of the grow at this time... The two on the left got it the worst leaving about 10% root mass left... most of the branches and tops had to be cut out as they died/dried ... I only left whatever has stayed green....

I just did a nutrient change

here are the pics.....









Here some close ups... not the best cam ...








this is the blueberry seed that got root rot... Im just experimenting with it till my seeds get here... as the root rot would be past on to the clones and shit.... when the seeds get here im getting all new shit... Well except the tester...hehehhe...Hydrogen bath for that...




So thats the update... good luck with your grow... and member.. hydrogen peroxide is your friend... and temps in rez under 71 please.... (yeah right... im switching to something else man!...no money or space or want to buy a chiller)