myke
Well-Known Member
That’s not enough I don’t think ,what EC will that give you?
I have a chart. So I don’t have to guess. 3 ml per litre = 800 5 ml = 1400 etc.
Edit to add calmag is very important 1.5 ml per litre.
DWC Stunted Growth...
- Thread starter Billy Lee
- Start date
I have a chart. So I don’t have to guess. 3 ml per litre = 800 5 ml = 1400 etc.
Edit to add calmag is very important 1.5 ml per litre.
3rd Monkey
Well-Known Member
That makes sense. Just comes out in a weird looking way. After seeing the nute label, I think you are right. They're hungry.
With the CO2 out of the equation, the ph dropping (even with steady EC) tells me they are feeding. I have my own system for that and I guess it contradicts science, but it agrees with you too lol.
Alright so I flushed the reservoir, cleaned the roots and have replenished with 150 ml of both the A & B nutrients plus 30 ml of the Roots Excelurator to my 100 L of tap water with a natural EC of 0.1.
The entire mixture now reads an EC of 1.5 and the pH is at 6.0.
Now we wait...
The entire mixture now reads an EC of 1.5 and the pH is at 6.0.
Now we wait...
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Hydro4life
Well-Known Member
Water of .1 EC is good. (50 ppm) as i said earlier, I used advanced nutrients ph perfect.
Part A is 4-0-0 (3.55% calcium, .9% magnesium)
Part B is 1-2-7
So I don't think your NPK ratio is too far off.?....
Before using AN my ph would always slowly go up (ph down was my best friend) generally the only time my ph would go down is when i had root issues like root rot. Not saying thats what you have but that was what i experienced.
From my experience if EC or ppm stays the same then they are drinking equal amounts of water to nute ratio (good thing)
Are they still drinking?? Or has water level stayed the same?
I would also expect if plants were hungry the lower leaves would be a lighter green. And effect the whole plant Not just the top of the plant.
The only time (other than when i had an iron deficiency growing in soil) i had new growth issues similar to yours was from my lights.
I think it might of been myke that mentioned it earlier? But have you tried using a different light? Like a lower powered mh??
Hydro4life
Well-Known Member
Just keep an eye on leaf tips and edges for burn. I'm more of a less is best kinda guy and run my ppm alot lower than Mykes (and running co2) but this can also be strain dependant as some strains are hungrier than others. That's where running multiple strains in one big res can be hard as you can't cater for the plants individual needs.
Yeah the only reason i'm going up in strength now is that it's kinda the only thing I haven't tried......
They grew the best for the first 9 days and EC was 1.0, they started showing signs of whatever this shit is on day 10, the only thing I can think of is that they "ate" most of the nutrients? It was at that point I lowered the nutrient strength to an EC of 0.4 and it got worse so all I can do now is try a stronger mix?
Okay, I wasn't gonna say anything but I did a soil grow about 9 months ago, 49 plants from seed, same strain, all organic material (soil, worm castings, blood and bone etc) and added zero nutrients throughout the grow, only watered them tap water. I grew these plants from seed under this exact same 1000W LED, the tent I ran was only 1.8m tall and I ran out of vertical space pretty early on and the plants were green, vibrant, healthy AF, ZERO signs of light burn so I think we can just about rule light-burn out of the equation. I did zero plant training, had zero environmental control perimeters only air in and out and the yield was understandably shitty, about a pound dry. It was winter at the time so the temperature would drop to anywhere from 15C to 0C during lights off and would hit between 24C to 32C during lights on, so basically the plants were going from one extreme to the next.
Sorry for the secrecy but I didn't think it would have any bearing on my current situation, but the fact everyone is saying it's got something to do with the light maybe I have to come clean.
It's not the light alright?
It's got to do with the nutrients because that's the only variable here, lights are good, environment is good, every fucking thing is good except what? I don't know..... the only thing I haven't done is raise the strength so fuck it, that's what I'm doing.
Oh and what's all this importance about calmag? The base nutrients has got everything in it right? The bottle states that it derives it's nutrients from Calcium Nitrate, Ammonium Nitrate, Nitric Acid, Potassium Hydroxide, Phosphoric Acid Anhydride and Magnesium Solphate, that seems to have Calcium and Magnesium yeah?
Oh and when I did add the Magnesium supplement the symptoms worsened....
They grew the best for the first 9 days and EC was 1.0, they started showing signs of whatever this shit is on day 10, the only thing I can think of is that they "ate" most of the nutrients? It was at that point I lowered the nutrient strength to an EC of 0.4 and it got worse so all I can do now is try a stronger mix?
Okay, I wasn't gonna say anything but I did a soil grow about 9 months ago, 49 plants from seed, same strain, all organic material (soil, worm castings, blood and bone etc) and added zero nutrients throughout the grow, only watered them tap water. I grew these plants from seed under this exact same 1000W LED, the tent I ran was only 1.8m tall and I ran out of vertical space pretty early on and the plants were green, vibrant, healthy AF, ZERO signs of light burn so I think we can just about rule light-burn out of the equation. I did zero plant training, had zero environmental control perimeters only air in and out and the yield was understandably shitty, about a pound dry. It was winter at the time so the temperature would drop to anywhere from 15C to 0C during lights off and would hit between 24C to 32C during lights on, so basically the plants were going from one extreme to the next.
Sorry for the secrecy but I didn't think it would have any bearing on my current situation, but the fact everyone is saying it's got something to do with the light maybe I have to come clean.
It's not the light alright?
It's got to do with the nutrients because that's the only variable here, lights are good, environment is good, every fucking thing is good except what? I don't know..... the only thing I haven't done is raise the strength so fuck it, that's what I'm doing.
Oh and what's all this importance about calmag? The base nutrients has got everything in it right? The bottle states that it derives it's nutrients from Calcium Nitrate, Ammonium Nitrate, Nitric Acid, Potassium Hydroxide, Phosphoric Acid Anhydride and Magnesium Solphate, that seems to have Calcium and Magnesium yeah?
Oh and when I did add the Magnesium supplement the symptoms worsened....
Hydro4life
Well-Known Member
Sorry man, but if you want help you need to tell us EVERYTHING you can. That's good to know about environment and lighting. Calcium and magnesium are basically second of importance to NPK. Then you have all your other trace elements. (Also in the nutes) but every nute company have different nutrient ratios of all. That's why I put percentage of cal/mag by the NPK ratios of advanced nutes. If you know it's the nutes and youve invested all this money on equipment, why not spend that tiny bit more? You potentially would have nice healthy plants now and probably getting close to flipping to 12/12!?
Hydro4life
Well-Known Member
And personally ive never seen plants look like that from being a little hungry..... upping the strength could make it worse? Something's not right somewhere. I personally doubt they are being slightly under fed. I've currently got a chemdawg in a scrog in week 7 of flower under a 600w hps. And still dosing co2 (some people cut it off by now) and I've run up to 1100ppm in the peak of flower development but have been keeping ppm around 1000. She loves it. I'd be very surprised if i get less than a pound off this 1 plant!
Hydro4life
Well-Known Member
Yep, and that something IS somewhere! but atleast its narrowed down to grow water quality, ph, water temp, air at root zone or nutes. Something that can initially stuff them up a bit is not washing the crap off the clay balls prior to planting in them, but i doubt thatl be it as you've changed res etc. If it were me I'd get some decent base nutes and just use base nutes only and see how you go. If you get ph perfect then you can rule out 2 of those factors. I've been growing in Dwc for years and am now sticking with ph perfect. I personally love it and I've had very good consistent grows with it. Sooo easy. Each to their own though.
Hydro4life
Well-Known Member
Hey shims. Infestation of what??
Russell or broad mite you think?
Is this really something I should be looking at? I don't own a microscope....
Yes, really. This is what I have, cheap and effective: Carson MicroMax 60x-100x LED Lighted Zoom Pocket Microscope For Field Inspection of Science, Fibers, Plants, Cells, Skin, Currency, Wildlife and More (MM-100) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009MFTSW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TB5HCbK6H3GS0
@Hydro4life probably broads.
@Hydro4life probably broads.
Hydro4life
Well-Known Member
Never heard of or had to deal with broads! But if it is broad mites i hope they aren't as resilient as spider mites!!? The plant looks nothing like a spider mite infestation to me though. I imagine they would be similar in the way they feed off the plant? So would have similar effects to the leaves?
3rd Monkey
Well-Known Member
3rd Monkey
Well-Known Member
I hope it pans out. I still don't like those brown roots, stained or not. I've always soaked them in a very mild peroxide solution in a bubbler when cleaning the res, so they were always white. But if it's just staining, I guess it's ok...?
Hydro4life
Well-Known Member
Yea, I have heard of root staining with some nutrient brands. Hopefully thats all it is!?
3rd Monkey
Well-Known Member
I'm not saying it isn't, I just don't like it lol, I don't see any rot problems showing in the plants, per se. It's bugging me almost as much as OP lol.
Hydro4life
Well-Known Member
I'm hearing ya! I think its bugging me more than the op haha. Just jumped on you tube to have a look at broad mites! Very interesting. Stealthy little shits. Looks different to what the guy was showing on YouTube. It usually causes skinny new leaf growth and leaf tips curl but sideways if you get what i mean? Can't see any of that on ops photos. I think his was early on in the piece but he had some discoloration on leaves (nothing like ops) and looks nothing like spider mites in my opinion