Dynagro is under-rated as fuck

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unohu69

Well-Known Member
I started using the magpro because my tapwater is super low ppm out da spout. I jus figured all the RO water guys seemed to need it, maybe i did to. I run my mix in promix bx ( i think, the one with myco in it) add in more perlite for drainage. I like my soil to dry out in a day or two if possible. but, i have run DG in DWC successfully many times, using the same numbers as i do in promix. sometimes i will bump an extra ml or two to a DWC just for S&G.
 

NeWcS

Well-Known Member
Yeah my tap water is pretty rough 250ppm(.5). But like I said, they claim it as a blossom booster which to me sounds like a bloom booster not a cal/mag product. Am I wrong
 

NeWcS

Well-Known Member
Lights just came on and my girls are all getting red stems (4 plants, 4 diff strains). I'm wondering if it is cause of the Mag-pro and I just misunderstood what it's for. I may have just answered my own question.

BBWRuSOCUAATJqT.jpg
 

unohu69

Well-Known Member
how much did you use? it is pretty strong stuff. you may not even need it if your water ppm is that high. Id get a RO unit. i believe water quality is important. why? cause when you drink nasty water you know it to right?
 

homebrewer

Well-Known Member
Yeah my tap water is pretty rough 250ppm(.5). But like I said, they claim it as a blossom booster which to me sounds like a bloom booster not a cal/mag product. Am I wrong
Before you go and change your entire feeding regimen, examine the overall health of the plant. A random leaf here and there with issues means a slight tweak is in order. If your plant is yellow with curled leaves, then you're doing it wrong.

Magpro is a bit of a booster and could possibly be designed to fit with other lines. I would not be using it in hydro if I didn't use RO water. That being said, you probably don't need it with your tap water being where it is.
 

NeWcS

Well-Known Member
It's just confusing as to what this product really is/does? I tried to email the company but all the email addresses they have listed bounce. I'll just stop using it. Just curious what is does
 

Adam & Cola

Well-Known Member
Love this thread. I'm using Dyna Grow for the first time and still trying to get it dialed in perfectly. I got 8 more days of veg to hit 60 and then i'm flippin to 12/12. My C99 plant seemed to be more yellowish or lime green than the darker green I see in most peoples photos using DG, plus C99 i found is a Nitrogen slut, at least mine is. lol. So I switched from using Grow to Foliar Pro to see if that will green it up.. lol, no pun intended. After a few days from switching things are looking a lot better. I also use Cal/Mag and Mag Pro with each feeding. My DWC when full is 2.25 gallons. so I only use 1.5ml of cal/mag and 1.5ml of Mag Pro.

Now if I can just figure out why my C99 looks Indica dominant compared to all the Sativa dominant C99 i've read and seen pictures of.. that would be awesome.. otherwise the characteristics of Cindy are there. High Nitrogen feeder, and absolutely no smell coming from it yet 52 days into veg. I wonder if anyone here knows more about my Indica Dom C99, or if I should contact Mosca Seeds to get me an answer. The two pheno's i have read about with C99 seem to be Sativa dominant not Indica. Am I wrong or did I miss something?

C99 under 600W, scrog is 24" x 28"
P1030144.jpg

Glad I took a pic with lights off, I see that I might need to bumb up Cal/Mag and Mag pro to 2ml each. few leaf tips showing me some signs.
P1030148.jpg


HB, didn't you do a scrog with your C99. how big was the scrog and what was your final weight.. I know you use 600W as well. Shit, I should just go read the 150 page journal again :)
 

homebrewer

Well-Known Member
Love this thread. I'm using Dyna Grow for the first time and still trying to get it dialed in perfectly. I got 8 more days of veg to hit 60 and then i'm flippin to 12/12. My C99 plant seemed to be more yellowish or lime green than the darker green I see in most peoples photos using DG, plus C99 i found is a Nitrogen slut, at least mine is. lol. So I switched from using Grow to Foliar Pro to see if that will green it up.. lol, no pun intended. After a few days from switching things are looking a lot better. I also use Cal/Mag and Mag Pro with each feeding. My DWC when full is 2.25 gallons. so I only use 1.5ml of cal/mag and 1.5ml of Mag Pro.

Now if I can just figure out why my C99 looks Indica dominant compared to all the Sativa dominant C99 i've read and seen pictures of.. that would be awesome.. otherwise the characteristics of Cindy are there. High Nitrogen feeder, and absolutely no smell coming from it yet 52 days into veg. I wonder if anyone here knows more about my Indica Dom C99, or if I should contact Mosca Seeds to get me an answer. The two pheno's i have read about with C99 seem to be Sativa dominant not Indica. Am I wrong or did I miss something?

C99 under 600W, scrog is 24" x 28"
View attachment 2519535

Glad I took a pic with lights off, I see that I might need to bumb up Cal/Mag and Mag pro to 2ml each. few leaf tips showing me some signs.
View attachment 2519538


HB, didn't you do a scrog with your C99. how big was the scrog and what was your final weight.. I know you use 600W as well. Shit, I should just go read the 150 page journal again :)
I've never scroged or grown straight cindy before. Are you sure 2.25 gallons is big enough for that plant? Magpro can be helpful with RO but you shouldn't need more calcium.

Hydro is different than promix as 'bloom' works great in hydro as long as a dash of 'grow' is added for the additional nitrogen. How much water is your plant drinking per day? Is your ppm dropping significantly? When I ran single site waterfarms, I needed to add water and plant food almost every other day which basically meant 3 res changes per week. If I ever went back to that, I'd connect a remote res with a float valve.
 

Adam & Cola

Well-Known Member
Damn I could of swore I read one of your journals that was a C99 grow. Oh well.

LOL, I don't know if the 2.25 gallons is gona be enough.. I should have used a 3" net pot instead of a 5", woulda gave me another quarter gallon of headroom for the rez. Right now she is drinking a hair over a gallon a day. I just keep up on it. Add back 1/2 gallon each day with lower nute levels, so I don't fry it. I do that twice and then do a rez change.. So far it's working. I have contemplated the idea of having a remote rez to fill it back up. But doing it this way makes sure that I don't get lazy with checking the P.H. and PPMS.. I don't have an EC meter.. My PPMS drop from 40-55 PPMS a day. But my PH is also dropping. so thats a little confusing.. according to my cheat sheet chart. nowhere does it say if they both go down what to do. So thats why i'm stuck trying to get it dialed in even though i'm at day 52 of Veg.

ec up and ph down = less feed
ec down and ph up = more feed
ec stable ph stable = sweet spot

EcPPM goes up, PH goes down=plants require less nutes.
EcPPM goes down, PH goes up=Plants require more nutes
EcPPM stable, PH goes up=Equilibrium=Good thang
 

homebrewer

Well-Known Member
Damn I could of swore I read one of your journals that was a C99 grow. Oh well.

LOL, I don't know if the 2.25 gallons is gona be enough.. I should have used a 3" net pot instead of a 5", woulda gave me another quarter gallon of headroom for the rez. Right now she is drinking a hair over a gallon a day. I just keep up on it. Add back 1/2 gallon each day with lower nute levels, so I don't fry it. I do that twice and then do a rez change.. So far it's working. I have contemplated the idea of having a remote rez to fill it back up. But doing it this way makes sure that I don't get lazy with checking the P.H. and PPMS.. I don't have an EC meter.. My PPMS drop from 40-55 PPMS a day. But my PH is also dropping. so thats a little confusing.. according to my cheat sheet chart. nowhere does it say if they both go down what to do. So thats why i'm stuck trying to get it dialed in even though i'm at day 52 of Veg.

ec up and ph down = less feed
ec down and ph up = more feed
ec stable ph stable = sweet spot

EcPPM goes up, PH goes down=plants require less nutes.
EcPPM goes down, PH goes up=Plants require more nutes
EcPPM stable, PH goes up=Equilibrium=Good thang
Do you use tap water or RO?
 

Adam & Cola

Well-Known Member
My bad HB, i'm using RO.

But my tap comes out to under 20ppms so i could really go either way. I'm just more comfortable using the RO because I know what i'm putting in it.
 

mvoltage24

Member
im gonna jump in here and say that im really ready to try dyna gro. everyone seems to have great results and id like a cheaper nutrient line. Ive used everything from GH, canna, and botincare. MY besy results so far are from my current nute program. it consists of,
Sensi Grow
Overdrive
Cal/Mag (cuz i use RO water)
Liquid Karma
I know this isnt a typical nute program but it seems to work stellar. The crop is mostly grown with sensi grow all the way too flush and i use the Overdrive for my PK increase thats needed in flower.
I think AN is way overpriced but the 2 products i do use and spend the cash on have been wonderful
 

homebrewer

Well-Known Member
My bad HB, i'm using RO.

But my tap comes out to under 20ppms so i could really go either way. I'm just more comfortable using the RO because I know what i'm putting in it.
Try using tap water and see if your pH stops dropping.

Maybe in future runs, look into a bigger 'res' for your roots, maybe 4-5 gallons. If that were my plant, I'd be afraid that it'd be ripping through the food too fast. Properly run hydro is great in that your solution *should* always be supplying your plant with exactly what it needs.
 

Adam & Cola

Well-Known Member
yeah I was contemplating using the tap in the beginning since it was good quality water, I'll give it a whirl HB, thanks. If anything it was save a few bucks going to the store to fill my bottles.

Almost had to flip too 12/12 early. I noticed my HPS bulb went out within 30min of the lights coming on. And no hydro store is open right now. luckily i had a spare bulb on hand. phew. Lesson learned..always keep a spare bulb on hand.. even if it's slightly used.

What ticks me off is this bulb will be only 3 weeks old tomorrow since I bought it. The store better give me an exchange.
 

Malevolence

New Member
I have severe ph drop bullshit going on in a couple 5g light-proof 65-72* DWC buckets.

Mixing in
~4gallons 120ppm tap water
1ml API Water Conditioner (airstone mixed 5 min)
10ml Pro-Tekt (airstone mixed 10-30 min)
5ml Grow
15ml Bloom
Pondzyme
GH PH Down

= 620ppm

All plants are same strain (dream lotus) growing under the same conditions and receive the same treatment. This began happening 2 res changes ago when I started adding Bloom and reduced the amount of Grow. At the same time, I also ran out of GH PH up and bought Tetra Hydro PH up instead. The ph drop has so far only occurred in my 3 buckets with large root systems. I have 2 smaller dream lotus with small root systems (they get less Bloom), and ph is stable. One large roots bucket is stable, the other 2 are diving down into the 4.5 range in 24 hours. Last time, different buckets were stable and different one had ph drop, so it is not occurring with the same plants both res changes.

Additionally... some fan leaves are getting leathery and boating downward pretty hard. Some newer leaves are curling downward significantly. I monitor ph daily and adjust if necessary. TDS is stable, and they are soaking a healthy amount of water. This is only happening on 2 plants.

My guesses in order of most likely to least likely...
My tap water may have ph buffers. I have been adding probably 5ml ph down to get to 5.8 on a fresh res change (which is way more than I had been using). After the buffers dissipate, the ph down still remains and fucks shit up. I'm not even sure if this is possible, or how ph buffers work exactly, but seems plausible. Only thing is, never had this problem in veg. Also, after adding so much ph up every day... I would think that problem would stop. Also, I wasn't having such a difficult time ph downing my tap water in a fresh res before I changed to flower cycle. That said, I understand the types and levels of shit in tap water changes throughout the months as the water companies do shit to it, so maybe there are more buffers in my water than usual?

Pond-Zyme isn't working and nasties are growing causing ph drop. This is kinda my worst fear because I'd really like to use Pond-Zyme (cheap and available, impressive results so far). Roots are pretty pristine and growing rapidly. Buckets smell like a mild - moderate earthy root smell.

DG Grow + Bloom isn't working in my setup. It seems to work for other people though, so eh...

General Hydroponics and Tetra Hydro PH up/down don't play well.




Ambient temp 75/81*
400w HPS
Plenty of bubbles
2x4 tent with 4" ventilation system
 

inhaleindica

Well-Known Member
I am not a hydro grower so I would suggest asking others or research on enzyme products. I use them in my soil and soilless grows very little. Enzyme products like hygrozyme tends to muck up the roots and create slime etc in hydro grows. My guess is the agitated water builds up the bacteria quickly with enzyme products. They work fine in soil but better in organic nutes. I am a Dyna grow user and they rock for me.

I have severe ph drop bullshit going on in a couple 5g light-proof 65-72* DWC buckets.

Mixing in
~4gallons 120ppm tap water
1ml API Water Conditioner (airstone mixed 5 min)
10ml Pro-Tekt (airstone mixed 10-30 min)
5ml Grow
15ml Bloom
Pondzyme
GH PH Down

= 620ppm

All plants are same strain (dream lotus) growing under the same conditions and receive the same treatment. This began happening 2 res changes ago when I started adding Bloom and reduced the amount of Grow. At the same time, I also ran out of GH PH up and bought Tetra Hydro PH up instead. The ph drop has so far only occurred in my 3 buckets with large root systems. I have 2 smaller dream lotus with small root systems (they get less Bloom), and ph is stable. One large roots bucket is stable, the other 2 are diving down into the 4.5 range in 24 hours. Last time, different buckets were stable and different one had ph drop, so it is not occurring with the same plants both res changes.

Additionally... some fan leaves are getting leathery and boating downward pretty hard. Some newer leaves are curling downward significantly. I monitor ph daily and adjust if necessary. TDS is stable, and they are soaking a healthy amount of water. This is only happening on 2 plants.

My guesses in order of most likely to least likely...
My tap water may have ph buffers. I have been adding probably 5ml ph down to get to 5.8 on a fresh res change (which is way more than I had been using). After the buffers dissipate, the ph down still remains and fucks shit up. I'm not even sure if this is possible, or how ph buffers work exactly, but seems plausible. Only thing is, never had this problem in veg. Also, after adding so much ph up every day... I would think that problem would stop. Also, I wasn't having such a difficult time ph downing my tap water in a fresh res before I changed to flower cycle. That said, I understand the types and levels of shit in tap water changes throughout the months as the water companies do shit to it, so maybe there are more buffers in my water than usual?

Pond-Zyme isn't working and nasties are growing causing ph drop. This is kinda my worst fear because I'd really like to use Pond-Zyme (cheap and available, impressive results so far). Roots are pretty pristine and growing rapidly. Buckets smell like a mild - moderate earthy root smell.

DG Grow + Bloom isn't working in my setup. It seems to work for other people though, so eh...

General Hydroponics and Tetra Hydro PH up/down don't play well.




Ambient temp 75/81*
400w HPS
Plenty of bubbles
2x4 tent with 4" ventilation system
 

Adam & Cola

Well-Known Member
Thats pretty much what mines doin Malevolence. Ph Drops drastically, seen as low as 4.8 in 24hrs. I think it is because the plant is uptaking so much water. (mine drinks, over a gallon in 24hrs) It's almost like we need a bigger rez to be able to keep it stable. Once my roots got huge is when I noticed the problem beginning also. before that it was rock solid. i also just switched to my tap water, per HB's advice since it is under 20ppms. So when I did a rez tonight I noticed i had to use alot more Ph down to get it to 6.2 than compared to when I used RO water. so next rez change i'm going to lower the amount of ProTekt. cause it naturally raises the PH.

What does your PH meter tell you when you add 1ml of API and the pondzyme? Does the PH raise or lower when those products are added? one thing you could do to raise you p.h. after the 24hrs instead of using a PH up.. is use the protekt. plus it will have other elements that will be more beneficial to your plant.

hopefully someone can chime in that has had this experience and tell us what they did to correct it, until then try ph'ing your nutes to 6.2 that way it will have a decent buffer.

i'm a newb to Dyna grow too so if any of my advice given is wrong or incorrect please say so.
 

inhaleindica

Well-Known Member
Thats pretty much what mines doin Inhaleindica. Ph Drops drastically, seen as low as 4.8 in 24hrs. I think it is because the plant is uptaking so much water. (mine drinks, over a gallon in 24hrs) It's almost like we need a bigger rez to be able to keep it stable. Once my roots got huge is when I noticed the problem beginning also. before that it was rock solid. i also just switched to my tap water, per HB's advice since it is under 20ppms. So when I did a rez tonight I noticed i had to use alot more Ph down to get it to 6.2 than compared to when I used RO water. so next rez change i'm going to lower the amount of ProTekt. cause it naturally raises the PH.

What does your PH meter tell you when you add 1ml of API and the pondzyme? Does the PH raise or lower when those products are added? one thing you could do to raise you p.h. after the 24hrs instead of using a PH up.. is use the protekt. plus it will have other elements that will be more beneficial to your plant.

hopefully someone can chime in that has had this experience and tell us what they did to correct it, until then try ph'ing your nutes to 6.2 that way it will have a decent buffer.

i'm a newb to Dyna grow too so if any of my advice given is wrong or incorrect please say so.
I don't even use any PH up and down anymore, unless I really have to. I just use the protekt and grow to adjust the PH. Once you get the amount correctly you will know what ph to expect after putting your nutes in the water. Thanks to HB and Uncle Ben. I have never used pondzyme so I can't really comment on that. Rarely I would use Hygrozyme as I don't think it really does anything in synthetic nutes and it doesn't change the ppm and ph for me as I use pro-mix. 20ppm is awesome, your a lucky dude. I wouldn't bother using the RO. My tap is 300-400 sheesh. Yes, the PH tends to hold when there are some ppm in your tap water due to the nutes in there. When there aren't any nutes in the tap water, it adjusts pretty easily.
 

Mr. Outdoors

Well-Known Member
Dont mean to get off subject, Might even be wrong place to post, but since this is a Dyna Grow thread. I have been using the Fox Farm Trio line up, its all I have ever used. Wanted to try something new so at the suggestion of someone at the local shop and this thread I purchased the Dyna Bloom, Grow and Protekt. Im at the end of week 3 flower. Did a flush yesterday. Can I start with the Bloom now? I grow in soil. (Just Right and Roots Organic mix). Also do you use the protekt when you feed or water? Thanks again in advance.
 
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