homebrewer
Well-Known Member
It's a fresh water/glacier aquaifer. But pro mix ph recommendations?
I shoot for the low 6's.
It's a fresh water/glacier aquaifer. But pro mix ph recommendations?
It's a fresh water/glacier aquaifer.
My tap water is 7.5ph and ~230ppm. It was voted as the best drinking water in the west. So I would have to assume it's good for plants too.![]()
Right, just because people think the tap water tastes good doesn't mean it doesn't have a ton of crap put in the water. Last time I checked plants don't need things like fluoride, etc.It of course depends on the elemental makeup of your water but I would consider that pretty poor water for indoor plants.
Damn guys, I knew water was treated with flouride and other chems, did not know that it was that much. So really quick, Homebrewer specifically : with my low ppm water as it is, can you recommend a good ppm range for veg and flower? I know that you cant give me precise numbers, just a good ball park.
Since DG is super concentrated, I am just iffy to use the "Dyna Chart", since it looks super hot. I measured one batch of nutes today that I am giving my 31 day flowering ladies, it had a ppm of 400. This is using 2.5 mL of pro Tek, 2 mL of grow and 1.25 of mag-pro. This was in a gallon of water, and I made the pH go down to 6.2.
I remember reading one of your readings in another post/forum that you always light feed with DG, just wondering if mine sound about a good estimation. And final question, how much GROW formula do you use for later flowering? Do you ever go as high as 3 mL per gallon?
And like you said, I found so far just using GROW to be much better than the DG Blooming formula. Plants seem much healthier this time around and the bud growth/flower size does seem to be a little bit better this time around. I still top off every other feedin with 1 mL Bloom, in a 2:1 ratio with grow. Thanks HB for the advice.
So really quick, Homebrewer specifically : with my low ppm water as it is, can you recommend a good ppm range for veg and flower? I know that you cant give me precise numbers, just a good ball park.
Since DG is super concentrated, I am just iffy to use the "Dyna Chart", since it looks super hot. I measured one batch of nutes today that I am giving my 31 day flowering ladies, it had a ppm of 400. This is using 2.5 mL of pro Tek, 2 mL of grow and 1.25 of mag-pro. This was in a gallon of water, and I made the pH go down to 6.2.
I remember reading one of your readings in another post/forum that you always light feed with DG, just wondering if mine sound about a good estimation. And final question, how much GROW formula do you use for later flowering? Do you ever go as high as 3 mL per gallon?
And like you said, I found so far just using GROW to be much better than the DG Blooming formula. Plants seem much healthier this time around and the bud growth/flower size does seem to be a little bit better this time around. I still top off every other feedin with 1 mL Bloom, in a 2:1 ratio with grow. Thanks HB for the advice.
Hydro or dirt?
I am in pro mix bx mixed with black cinder
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My tap water is 7.5ph and ~230ppm. It was voted as the best drinking water in the west. So I would have to assume it's good for plants too.![]()
I've been playing with Foliage pro lately so if you ask me this same question in 6 months, I may have a different answer.
You're guessing, not good although the TDS is low and the pH suggests it's being filtered through a limestone aquifer. My water tastes great but the Ca and Mg bicarbs are through the roof, and the boron content is too high for sensitive plants (.59 ppm). Get it analyzed by TX A&M and make sure you use a new, ultra clean bottle and let your water source run a bit before collecting. Ship immediately and to save on postage include a soil sample. Tell them you're using your water on tomatoes or basil and they will run a chart that outlines parameters for salinity, permeability (exchangeable sodium percentage), sodium toxicity, chloride toxicity and boron toxicity.
Best money ever spent at a very reasonable cost compared to other certified labs. http://soiltesting.tamu.edu/
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