Dynagro soil

Chronic11

Active Member
Im looking for a feed schedule for all stages in soil such as happy frog or ocean forest. I have foliage pro, grow, protekt, and bloom. Anyone with experience growing in these soils using these nutrients, your opinion would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 

thetruthoverlies

Well-Known Member
Just run the foliage pro only at 1/4 tsp per gal, and run RO water in between every other water. If you think they need more food up it to 1/2tsp.

Protekt I just use as a emulsifier for making IPM sprays with neem and essential oils.

Keep it simple and you should do good. I wouldn't even trust those feed schedules...too many variables.

Eventually I got to like the dry amendments top dressed and just feed with RO water.
 

Chronic11

Active Member
Just run the foliage pro only at 1/4 tsp per gal, and run RO water in between every other water. If you think they need more food up it to 1/2tsp.

Protekt I just use as a emulsifier for making IPM sprays with neem and essential oils.

Keep it simple and you should do good. I wouldn't even trust those feed schedules...too many variables.

Eventually I got to like the dry amendments top dressed and just feed with RO water.
Thank you. Do you think I could get away with using tap and not RO? My tap water comes out around 90-100 ppm. Also you’re saying not to use protekt with the foliage pro? I like the idea of stronger stems / heat and drought protection it claims to give. But this isn’t the first time I’ve heard to drop the protekt so I suppose I may just need to.
 

Wastei

Well-Known Member
Im looking for a feed schedule for all stages in soil such as happy frog or ocean forest. I have foliage pro, grow, protekt, and bloom. Anyone with experience growing in these soils using these nutrients, your opinion would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
I would mix grow or foliage pro and bloom 50/50 and feed 0.3-->1.0 EC from start to finish. Get an pH and EC pen if you haven't already. You could add a little epsom salt since Dyna Gro is a little low on Mg. Protekt is a nice add-on.

I only noticed Mg def when I switched from HID to LEDs some years ago. Dyna Gro is really pH stable and easy to use. Good luck with your grow!
 

Chronic11

Active Member
I would mix grow or foliage pro and bloom 50/50 and feed 0.3-->1.0 EC from start to finish. Get an pH and EC pen if you haven't already. You could add a little epsom salt since Dyna Gro is a little low on Mg. Protekt is a nice add-on.

I only noticed Mg def when I switched from HID to LEDs some years ago. Dyna Gro is really pH stable and easy to use. Good luck with your grow!
Thanks!
 

RuggedWombat

Well-Known Member
Im looking for a feed schedule for all stages in soil such as happy frog or ocean forest. I have foliage pro, grow, protekt, and bloom. Anyone with experience growing in these soils using these nutrients, your opinion would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
The nutrients are super strong. I grow in happy frog and find 1/4 tsp per gal seems to be more than enough for veg with FP. I wouldn't start giving nutrients until after 3 weeks minimum in happy frog. I'm using less PT now as it takes a ton of PH down to fix. I just started flower so I plan to use a 1:4 ratio of FP to bloom and then fully switch to bloom post stretch. I don't think I will be going over 3/4 tsp on bloom, but it's a bit weaker than the FP so we will see.

I've seen several DG feed charts, but this one is on their website and therefore probably the most current https://dyna-gro.com/feed_chart/. I also like how they have overlap from transitioning to bloom from FP instead of just completely dropping it which can cause nitrogen loss too early during stretch. I would probably run it at 1/4 the amounts they suggest as 2 tsp per gallon of bloom plus a bunch of other shit is insanity. Also they suggest a tsp in week 1 of veg which is probably death to a seedling.
 

SpideyManDan

Well-Known Member
Well this is pretty old at this point, but after using dyna grow for a bit I've had a pretty good experience with it. For small seedlings I typically use something like .1ml per gal of foilage pro for ph correction and as they get older I slowly add more. I haven't fed them over 1ml over gal except for when I needed to add more nutrients back to the soil because of leaching the soil or from heavy rains for my outside garden. When I switch to flower I use dyna gro grow at around the same level. The higher phosphorus levels help with flowering. I'm dialing more stuff in but so far I've gotten decent results from this. Less is more and if you may want to do more I would suggest top dressing with worm castings.
 

RuggedWombat

Well-Known Member
I would mix grow or foliage pro and bloom 50/50 and feed 0.3-->1.0 EC from start to finish. Get an pH and EC pen if you haven't already. You could add a little epsom salt since Dyna Gro is a little low on Mg. Protekt is a nice add-on.

I only noticed Mg def when I switched from HID to LEDs some years ago. Dyna Gro is really pH stable and easy to use. Good luck with your grow!
Why the 50/50 mix for veg? Is the N too much in FP? Maybe I'm overthinking it but I figured you'd do like a 1/4 tsp of FP for wk 3 and 4 and then switch to a 50/50 FP bloom mix during stretch. Post stretch would switch over to full bloom like 1/2-3/4 tsp per gallon. Why would your feeding schedule work better? Just wanting to understand.
 

Wastei

Well-Known Member
Why the 50/50 mix for veg? Is the N too much in FP? Maybe I'm overthinking it but I figured you'd do like a 1/4 tsp of FP for wk 3 and 4 and then switch to a 50/50 FP bloom mix during stretch. Post stretch would switch over to full bloom like 1/2-3/4 tsp per gallon. Why would your feeding schedule work better? Just wanting to understand.
Simply because the growth is practically identical and you use up the two bottles at the same time.
 

RuggedWombat

Well-Known Member
Simply because the growth is practically identical and you use up the two bottles at the same time.
What would be the advantage over just FP? also I know you're saying around 500 PPM but how are people on these grow journals pushing 2 TSP of bloom per gallon and their plants aren't turning to dust? I start burning beyond probably 1/2 tsp per gallon so these nutrients are still a mystery to me. I know going pure bloom causes a noticeable N drop in flower. I'm in week 2 flower so maybe I'll just run 50/50 1/4 tsp of FP and bloom throughout. Luckily all combos work well, but I'm always looking to simplify and improve.

Here's an example of someone pushing crazy high bloom and their plants are greener than mine running 1/2 tsp per gallon. https://growdiaries.com/diaries/134312-grow-journal-by-noonopanir/week/785640 Also I've seen you pretty consistently in DG threads over the years, what's the most up to date knowledge on DG here? All I pull googling are uncle Ben and Homebrewer threads from almost a decade ago with a few others here and there.
 
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Wastei

Well-Known Member
What would be the advantage over just FP? also I know you're saying around 500 PPM but how are people on these grow journals pushing 2 TSP of bloom per gallon and their plants aren't turning to dust? I start burning beyond probably 1/2 tsp per gallon so these nutrients are still a mystery to me. I know going pure bloom causes a noticeable N drop in flower. I'm in week 2 flower so maybe I'll just run 50/50 1/4 tsp of FP and bloom throughout. Luckily all combos work well, but I'm always looking to simplify and improve.

Here's an example of someone pushing crazy high bloom and their plants are greener than mine running 1/2 tsp per gallon. https://growdiaries.com/diaries/134312-grow-journal-by-noonopanir/week/785640 Also I've seen you pretty consistently in DG threads over the years, what's the most up to date knowledge on DG here? All I pull googling are uncle Ben and Homebrewer threads from almost a decade ago with a few others here and there.
You you get a little different internodal length, more open structure and lower N entering flower. Don't stare yourself blind on what other people are doing.

There's to many variables like environment, watering techniques and frequency of feeding and watering to just copy someone else's recipe.

I would start with Promix with 20% of perlite and let the plants tell you what do in terms of nutrient strength.

That being said there's no real advantage or reason to push above 800ppm in flower, in containers 500ppm should be sufficient. Add Calimagic first if you're in coir since DG is a little low on especially Mg.
 

RuggedWombat

Well-Known Member
Do you water pro mix like coco? Not going to lie watering soil every 3 days is already a hassle; I couldn't imagine watering like every day. What's the most inert soil type these days? I always thought pro mix was more of a soilless medium.
 

Wastei

Well-Known Member
Do you water pro mix like coco? Not going to lie watering soil every 3 days is already a hassle; I couldn't imagine watering like every day. What's the most inert soil type these days? I always thought pro mix was more of a soilless medium.
Promix is peat mix or peat/coir mix to my knowledge. I don't water Promix like coir, it's practically soil. I think they mean it doesn't contain compost or any degraded organic matter when they say soilless.
 

Chronic11

Active Member
So far I’ve been using 2.5 ml protekt 5 ml calimagic, 5ml foliage pro. Watering once daily with a lot of run off. Coco perlite medium. Just switched to 12/12. I’m really considering staying the path and not using bloom nutes, just keeping things as is. Thoughts?
 

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Chronic11

Active Member
So far I’ve been using 2.5 ml protekt 5 ml calimagic, 5ml foliage pro. Watering once daily with a lot of run off. Coco perlite medium. Just switched to 12/12. I’m really considering staying the path and not using bloom nutes, just keeping things as is. Thoughts?
Damn just realized this is in my soil thread lmao. My bad folks.
 

RuggedWombat

Well-Known Member
Hey man first off the plants look great. I'd love to compare notes. I'm about 3 weeks into flower and what my experience is less than 1/2 tsp of FP per gallon will start seeing N drop during stretch. I've gone back to 1/2 tsp FP which previously has gotten me through a grow completely of meph autos. At 1/2 tsp I'm still pushing the bloom as I believe they are needing P especially. I only water every 3 days with every other watering being plain water so ymmv. I tried both PT and CALMAG but found they just made shit worse. CALMAG was WAY too potent and the PT would cause my already 7.6 tsp water to require a TON of PH down. I know PH down is just phosphoric acid, but I swear it was driving down the PH in my plants. Once I dumped the PT I started doing high PH waterings (6.7-6.8) and wouldn't you know it the RO went from 6.2. up to around 6.5 now. I'm also glad that the DG nutrients seem to PH buffer perfectly if you are using over 1/4 tsp per gal. I will say I've been running into the same brown dead spots in every grow so far. They show up at all phases of the grow and the plants will be otherwise healthy. Another curious issue is the bloom seems WAY weaker than FP. For example 1/2 tsp FP is around 470 PPM which is right around perfect for a grow. However, I added another 1/2 tsp of bloom per gal and it only went up to 500! Definitely has me scratching my head. I would experiment with the bloom and just treat it as extra that can be manipulated. It certainly seems like 1/4-1/2 tsp of FP is the gold standard for dosing. Here is my grow now and some examples of the leaf damage. Otherwise the plants are doing very well. The last pic shows the browning very early into the grow. Edit: I'll have to add the pics tonight as my signal sucks.
 
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RuggedWombat

Well-Known Member
Here are some pics of starting week 5 of flower. These plants currently get 1/2 tsp FP and 1/2 tsp bloom per gallon. Honestly though I'm seeing a bit of nutrient burn so I'll probably back it off 1/4 tsp bloom until they really starting blooming and want it back. They are showing some N loss, but far less than you would see if you completely cut FP and switched to bloom like the feeding charts recommend. Don't mind the color fading at the tops of the plants; they stretched too close to the lights and got burned/bleached.
 

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Chronic11

Active Member
Here are some pics of starting week 5 of flower. These plants currently get 1/2 tsp FP and 1/2 tsp bloom per gallon. Honestly though I'm seeing a bit of nutrient burn so I'll probably back it off 1/4 tsp bloom until they really starting blooming and want it back. They are showing some N loss, but far less than you would see if you completely cut FP and switched to bloom like the feeding charts recommend. Don't mind the color fading at the tops of the plants; they stretched too close to the lights and got burned/bleached.
Those plants look great man. I’m growing in coco this time around and watering everyday is such a pain in the ass I’m thinking about going back to soil on my next run. That or setting up an automatic watering system. The amount of control you have over what the plants get with coco is nice tho. Honestly the explosive growth I’ve been getting has been a joy just as much as a headache lmao. I’m running out of room! I keep training my tops down under the net, & now that they’re all at the edge I’m ziptying them there and prob gonna try to train back toward the middle a little. My tents only 5 ft tall and I’m worried this stretch is gonna fuck me. 6 days of 12/12 and they’re stretching like fuck but not giving me any preflowers yet.
 

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V256.420

Well-Known Member
I only use Foliage Pro and Protekt for veg. 700 to 750 ppm. I then use Foliage Pro the first 2 weeks after flip and a mix of Foliage Pro and Grow after that until done. I use Protekt to get my ph in line. 750 to 800 ppm for flower.
 
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