Ebb and flow

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oscart47

Member
I was wondering if any one could pipe in with the best way to build and ebb and flow system using wood . I have seen people say to use pond liners but I do not have access to none in my area. Also I plan on building the resovoir as an attached bottom unit. I saw a video on some guy doing this on YouTube and it seemed to work for him , but I was wondering how would one go abouts stirring the resovoir . I have been using gh flora nova and it seems to all end up sitting in the bottom of my resovoir
 
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ilikecheetoes

Well-Known Member
i looked into heavy duty acrylic paints when I was going to do something similar. Shit costs a fortune. You could use boat repair fiberglass i suppose? Trust me thompsons wont cut it lol. been there got the wet tshirt.
 
hornedfrog2000

hornedfrog2000

Well-Known Member
You could use fiberglass mat, and resin, but you might as well just buy a cement mixing tub and do it cheap at that point.
 
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1two3

Active Member
For large reservoirs, use submersible pumps, not connected to any tubing, to circulate water in the res. switch it on when you want it mixed.

Water weighs a lot and the table and res need to be able to hold up to it, so fiberglass would be a good idea. Keep light proofing and good drainage in mind while building.
 
superstoner1

superstoner1

Well-Known Member
There is no need to "stir" a res after mixing. I can let my res set for 4-5 days and measure it, then mix it and re measure it and ppm will not vary by more than 10. It gets saturated, dont worry about adding more heat to it using a pump to mix it.
 
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joe macclennan

Well-Known Member
hornedfrog2000 said:
You could use fiberglass mat, and resin, but you might as well just buy a cement mixing tub and do it cheap at that point.[/QUOTE
I've done this. Huge pain.

I use 8 mil construction grade plastic to line my flood trays. This stuff is pretty tuff. It will take bout anything except for a pair of scissors dropped point down. Even if a small hole gets put in it silicone caulk works good to patch it.
Click to expand...
 
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1two3

Active Member
superstoner1 said:
There is no need to "stir" a res after mixing. I can let my res set for 4-5 days and measure it, then mix it and re measure it and ppm will not vary by more than 10. It gets saturated, dont worry about adding more heat to it using a pump to mix it.
Click to expand...

With the way he's talking about building the tables, he made it sound like he will have limited access to open the res, and thus required some way to mix the res.
 
superstoner1

superstoner1

Well-Known Member
1two3 said:
With the way he's talking about building the tables, he made it sound like he will have limited access to open the res, and thus required some way to mix the res.
Click to expand...
I use 50 gal res's that are tucked under my systems with a small door cut into the top. I use a cordless drill with a 5gal paint mixer attachment and it takes a few secs to mix. Just an idea.
 
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PurpleBuz

Well-Known Member
on your recirculation pump outlet add a Tee with a valve. One leg goes to your flood table. The other leg stays in the reservoir, but has a valve on it to keep it normally closed. Open the valve when your mixing nutes. Could also serve as a way to drain the reservoir.
 
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oscart47

Member
if i dont stir my res , it all starts to build on the bottom of the rez , and i cant see how that would not make a diffrence . I thank you all for your ideas tho
 
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