Edges of leaves brown and curling up PICS

This is all great info, exactly what I'm looking for. I think I've been making the mistake of constantly try to keep my ph at 6.8 to 6.0. I'm glad no one has said nut burn. Since I've been letting it swing I can see a difference. I'll definitely let it go from 5.5 to 6.5 does anyone think 450ppm is to low. Since res change 150 ppm is silica and calmag and 300 ppm is 3 part GH. My feeder roots are always submerged in about an inch of water do to the style of these buckets. I top feed 15min every 2 hours. Thanks for all the help guys
 
nor cal 999 said:
This is all great info, exactly what I'm looking for. I think I've been making the mistake of constantly try to keep my ph at 6.8 to 6.0. I'm glad no one has said nut burn. Since I've been letting it swing I can see a difference. I'll definitely let it go from 5.5 to 6.5 does anyone think 450ppm is to low. Since res change 150 ppm is silica and calmag and 300 ppm is 3 part GH. My feeder roots are always submerged in about an inch of water do to the style of these buckets. I top feed 15min every 2 hours. Thanks for all the help guys
Click to expand...
At least you can now all-but rule out Mag deficiency after you updated the nutes. Like the other user said those lighter colours between the veins ARE common with potassium Def but usually thwere is burnt tips too. Yellowing between the veins can also mean she's lacking either copper, zinc, manganese, or even that there is light burn. Potassium deficiency is rare in hydro according to the website royalqueenseeds
Not sure any of this clears anything up. Good luck anyway!
 
The "Joy" of DWC grows is how fast you can fix a fuck up.
If you want to get back on track...
Give her ph'd RO for 48 hrs.
Start her back at 1/2 nutes and watch your numbers.
When you see her moving in the right direction, up your ppm's 50 at a time. She'll let ya know when she's happy.
 
nor cal 999 said:
This is all great info, exactly what I'm looking for. I think I've been making the mistake of constantly try to keep my ph at 6.8 to 6.0. I'm glad no one has said nut burn. Since I've been letting it swing I can see a difference. I'll definitely let it go from 5.5 to 6.5 does anyone think 450ppm is to low. Since res change 150 ppm is silica and calmag and 300 ppm is 3 part GH. My feeder roots are always submerged in about an inch of water do to the style of these buckets. I top feed 15min every 2 hours. Thanks for all the help guys
Click to expand...
Maybe someone else can answer this better than me, but if memory serves me right, the plants will reject straight silica to a degree. That’s why it’s in the form of potassium silica, to basically trick the plant into thinking it’s potassium....
Maybe your giving too much potassium silica? The plant may not be uptaking the potassium it thinks it is?
Someone else on here may know more about this as I generally only give my plants one or two good feedings during stretch for stronger, thicker branches for flowering.....

The nutrient strength question is harder for us to answer from a pic.
There are a lot of factors to consider like, temp, humidity, size of plant, health of plant etc.
But judging from your pics they seem to be fed enough. May even have a touch of nitrogen toxicity (not bad though) with the upper leaves/newer growth being fairly dark and the tips of the leaves clawing down.
You will get a feel for it over time, just watch your plants and how they react to changes in feeding. Dwc is a great way to learn plants needs as you will see an affect fairly quickly.
 
Humidity is at 50% most of the time. At first I didn't believe my tap was 30ish ppms either. I went out and bought a bluelab guardian just to make sure and there very convenient also. I made sure it was calibrated and it came out the same as my hand hand held. My ph from tap is very high around 8.5 to 9.0 from tap but after all my nutrients it goes down to about 7 then ph down.
 
Since I got some vets here, what's a good size to flip to 12/12 to end up with 3ft plants. After my tables and pots I have 5ft to my lights hung at maximum height. I'm hoping for 1 to 2 oz per plant hopefully. This is my first indoor but I have been doing outdoor for close to a decade. The 2 are very different I'm learning haha.
 
nor cal 999 said:
Humidity is at 50% most of the time. At first I didn't believe my tap was 30ish ppms either. I went out and bought a bluelab guardian just to make sure and there very convenient also. I made sure it was calibrated and it came out the same as my hand hand held. My ph from tap is very high around 8.5 to 9.0 from tap but after all my nutrients it goes down to about 7 then ph down.
Click to expand...

That's not accurate if the water has no conduction, i mean, low ppm/ec water is near impossible to know the accurate ph with measurement tools such as yours.
I personally have a low PPM water to, its called soft water, around 80-150ppm, and one of the big concerns i have is to add extra CAL/MAG on the water always, before that i was getting alot of issues from 5-8 weeks of flowering, years without knowing what was causing the issues, until i went on my first hydro grow and got some proper tools on hands, and found out that my water was soft, now i use fertilizers for softwater as well, they are different.
We are lucky to have Softwater, a lot of my mates need their RO systems
 
futuretech said:
That's not accurate if the water has no conduction, i mean, low ppm/ec water is near impossible to know the accurate ph with measurement tools such as yours.
I personally have a low PPM water to, its called soft water, around 80-150ppm, and one of the big concerns i have is to add extra CAL/MAG on the water always, before that i was getting alot of issues from 5-8 weeks of flowering, years without knowing what was causing the issues, until i went on my first hydro grow and got some proper tools on hands, and found out that my water was soft, now i use fertilizers for softwater as well, they are different.
We are lucky to have Softwater, a lot of my mates need their RO systems
Click to expand...
Interesting, so let me ask how much calmag did you add, what nutrients do you use that are made for soft water because I'll have to look into that and why wouldn't a regular ph meter work such as a bluelab or handheld?
 
I use Atami CAL&MAG, 0,25ml/L - 0,50ml/L ,

about nutrients im using "LUCAS FORMULA" using FLORA MICRO SOFTWATER + FLORA BLOOM.
don't forget im running aeroponics, my doses maybe not similar to yours. week 1-2 veg i use 0.5ml/l OF MICRO AND 1ml/l BLOOM, 2-4 veg i use 1ml/l OF MICRO AND 2ml/l BLOOM + 0,25ml/l CAL&MAG from atami (caution that this cal&mag makes ph drop, keep eye on that)... then normally i start flowering with 1ml micro 2 ml bloom, then i raise a little bit cal mag first 3 weeks to 0,50ml/l, then i play arround 1.5-2/ml micro and 3-4ml bloom...
That's how it works with me...

Now why regular meters wont read properly your water with a low PPM? Because low ppm water has low ions and this will include all carbonate alkalinity, for this reason, low ppm water won't carry any buffer system, meaning that a small amount of ambient atmospheric CO2 will mix with the water and result in a slightly depressed Ph reading as CO2 is an acidic gas.
With that said you must remember though that as the soft water is ionically low and the Ph registered doesn’t reflect the projected Ph of the water once it is mixed with a solution that is Acid or Alkaline. Maybe some more expensive tools can read this kind of water, but not our regular cheap meters, i have a good meter aswell (HANNA HI98130) , but not enough for this task for sure, the only thing i read from my soft water is the PPM.
 
Wow ok thanks for all that. Very interesting how all that works. So since I changed res about 30 hours ago or so my ppm stayed the same 470 to 480 and water level dropped a bit. When I topped off the res today with fresh water the ppm is now at 430 so my understanding is they have taken 40 or 50 ppm in around 30 hours. Does that sound like they have enough food or go a little higher or when I top it off try to keep it around 450 to 500?
 
If it's that small of a change I'd say that the base concentration of your nutes is close so just top off with more of that solution.
 
nor cal 999 said:
Wow ok thanks for all that. Very interesting how all that works. So since I changed res about 30 hours ago or so my ppm stayed the same 470 to 480 and water level dropped a bit. When I topped off the res today with fresh water the ppm is now at 430 so my understanding is they have taken 40 or 50 ppm in around 30 hours. Does that sound like they have enough food or go a little higher or when I top it off try to keep it around 450 to 500?
Click to expand...
What did your pH do?
 
One example of the way i work:
Lets say my 150L reservoir is 750PPM today and PH 5.8. next day i go there, and i find that i need to add 30L of water, i check the reservoir PPM and it is 900PPM and i check PH and it says 5.6PH... What would i do? i would ADD 30L of RO water (the water i use), wait some minutes to the water get on the system and check the PPM, it would Low the PPM and raise the PH for sure...

Same thing on the reverse:
Let's say my 150L reservoir is 750PPM today and PH 5.8. next day i go there and i find that i need to add 30L of what, i check the PPM and i shows 600PPM and ph of 6.0ph. If i wanted to make it go back to the day before PPM i would give it my regular lucas formula with the 30L of water, it would lower the PH and raise the PPM.

Note: I normally don't care that much about having every day the PPM and PH on same levels, i let it fluctuate around the ranges to make sure it catches all the nutrients and minerals needed around the chart, i let it fluctuate depending on the stage on veg (5.4-5.8ph) and on flora (5.8-6.3ph). REMEMBER THAT THIS PH NUMBERS ARE MAINLY FOR HYDRO, RDWC, AEROPONICS.
 
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