Electrical Ques. If I can help someone I will...

caddyluck

Well-Known Member
you definately should have em put in at least a 50amp breaker box in there....that way you always have room for upgrades(more lights:)tell em you have a big wire feed welder as well as a big air compressor that you would like to put in there

50 amps sounds good, thanks man +Rep :leaf:
 

beginningbotanist420

Well-Known Member
I'm trying to set up a rubbermaid in my attic, and there are no outlets up there. I would run an outlet to the breaker box, but its all in the basement. There is only one open wire up there [except for the HVAC] and its from the fan in my bathroom thats not used very often, but i cant cut that cord for power. I'll be running (2) 150w HPS's, roughly a 250cfm in-line fan, 2 PC fans, maybe a few CFLs [no more than 200w], and a small clip-on oscillating fan. [Basically enough power for a full power-strip]

My question is, How should i route power up there?
-Could i get a extension cord that has (3) female plugs, cut the fan cord, and wire it so the fan plugs in?
-Follow that cord and attempt to go to the breaker?
 

connoisseurde420

Well-Known Member
my question is in reference to an industrial warehouse grow. Now Ive done some research and I will have about 100amps at my disposal. Now I am an electrical engineer so I know how it works just not how to put it together and I like to be sure of myself in these things... Lets say I wanted to rig up 20 - 1000w hps, with only half the lights running at a time, thats not too much right? What materials would I need to pull this off correctly and do you know anything about industrial power and if I will have to get some city official to look at the work or what? I know basiclly what todo just want to get the details worked out as much as possible...
 

CustomHydro

Well-Known Member
I'm trying to set up a rubbermaid in my attic, and there are no outlets up there. I would run an outlet to the breaker box, but its all in the basement. There is only one open wire up there [except for the HVAC] and its from the fan in my bathroom thats not used very often, but i cant cut that cord for power. I'll be running (2) 150w HPS's, roughly a 250cfm in-line fan, 2 PC fans, maybe a few CFLs [no more than 200w], and a small clip-on oscillating fan. [Basically enough power for a full power-strip]

My question is, How should i route power up there?
-Could i get a extension cord that has (3) female plugs, cut the fan cord, and wire it so the fan plugs in?
-Follow that cord and attempt to go to the breaker?
If u want to be discreet I would run it thru a closet ceiling. 500 watts isn't that much power at all. U don't need to go to the box, u just need to go to an outlet.
 

bericus

Active Member
I need 2 B showed or explain how 2 make a simple 4 light socket wiring light fixture 4 my 42w cfl lighting:?:
 

CustomHydro

Well-Known Member
my question is in reference to an industrial warehouse grow. Now Ive done some research and I will have about 100amps at my disposal. Now I am an electrical engineer so I know how it works just not how to put it together and I like to be sure of myself in these things... Lets say I wanted to rig up 20 - 1000w hps, with only half the lights running at a time, thats not too much right? What materials would I need to pull this off correctly and do you know anything about industrial power and if I will have to get some city official to look at the work or what? I know basiclly what todo just want to get the details worked out as much as possible...
Hey whats up, where did u go to become an electrical engineer? I want to do that.
Anyways, the well available formula is; Volts * Amps = Watts u can run. For example, with a 110 volt connection, V=110, A=100, so W=11,000, now the 1000watts is just for the bulb, the ballast runs 50-100watts on top of that, but being an electrical engineer u probably already knew that. U would be over capacity with just the lights anyways, u want to be about 20% under your maximum amperage so u can only run 7 lights safely. If u run it at a 220volt connection, which would be slightly more efficient u could run about 15 at a crack.
 

lorenzo08

Well-Known Member
I have a question I'm hoping someone can help me with.

I'm looking for a good vegging light, I would like to have flourescent tubes. My space is 30" wide so I have been looking at some of the 2 light x 2' fixtures at Home Depot. The problem is they are dim as hell.

Here's the question. Can I upgrade the ballast in the 2' fixtures with a HO ballast for the 4' fixtures. Will this blow the light out? Or will the 2' bulbs simply not get any brighter regardless of power?

Thanks!
I've never tried it, but here's the info https://www.rollitup.org/view.php?pg=faq&cmd=article&id=166

I personally like cfl's better then tube florescent
 

lorenzo08

Well-Known Member
my question is in reference to an industrial warehouse grow. Now Ive done some research and I will have about 100amps at my disposal. Now I am an electrical engineer so I know how it works just not how to put it together and I like to be sure of myself in these things... Lets say I wanted to rig up 20 - 1000w hps, with only half the lights running at a time, thats not too much right? What materials would I need to pull this off correctly and do you know anything about industrial power and if I will have to get some city official to look at the work or what? I know basiclly what todo just want to get the details worked out as much as possible...
they sell switching boxes for big setups like this. you'd have 10 ballasts hooked into the switch, then all 20 lights hooked into that. the ballasts stay powered on 24/7, then it switches the power between the 2 sets of lights every 12 hours.

actually, the numbers fooled me for a second too. you probably have 100 amps 220v, or can be split off in separate circuits to get 200 amps at 120v. 10 ballasts would pull somewhere around 50 amps, so well under your max, even with fans.
 

hooksandflesh

Active Member
i have a 400w digi ballist and three sqirrel fans and a drip tote.and an a cooltube reflector.I only have one spot to grow which is in my closet in my bed room all of the plugins in the up stairs are on one cirrcut can i run this on the same cirrcuit and not blow anything and two will this draw alot of current to be noticed i live in canada
 

lorenzo08

Well-Known Member
i have a 400w digi ballist and three sqirrel fans and a drip tote.and an a cooltube reflector.I only have one spot to grow which is in my closet in my bed room all of the plugins in the up stairs are on one cirrcut can i run this on the same cirrcuit and not blow anything and two will this draw alot of current to be noticed i live in canada
I don't know the specs of your fans and other equipment, but the ballast shouldn't pull more then 4 amps. add on whatever else is in your grow room, and what else might be on the same circuit in other rooms. the other day I had a 400 watt ballast and an electric heater alone on a 15 amp circuit, it tripped the breaker. you should look further into what else is on the same circuit, and how many amps it can handle.
 

XxstelxX

Active Member
ok as far as 120 volt and 240 volt is concerned power is always the same if you use 120 volts amperage is higher if u use 240 volts amperage is lower but since voltage times amperage is power (watts) then no matter the voltage the power used is always the same. so if u have a 120 watt bulb that uses 1 amp at 120 volts then that same bulb at 240 volts would use .5 amps. This is basic electrical theory. Higher voltage less amperage. lower voltage higher amperage. power is always the same Watts is power and you are charged by your electrical company by kilowatts/per hour so no matter the voltage the power is always the same its the amperage that changes with the voltage thus wire must be bigger for lower volatges because wire is sized on amperage rateings. I am also and electrian for ten years now licensed in 3 states. just wnated to clear that up :weed:
 

CustomHydro

Well-Known Member
ok as far as 120 volt and 240 volt is concerned power is always the same if you use 120 volts amperage is higher if u use 240 volts amperage is lower but since voltage times amperage is power (watts) then no matter the voltage the power used is always the same. so if u have a 120 watt bulb that uses 1 amp at 120 volts then that same bulb at 240 volts would use .5 amps. This is basic electrical theory. Higher voltage less amperage. lower voltage higher amperage. power is always the same Watts is power and you are charged by your electrical company by kilowatts/per hour so no matter the voltage the power is always the same its the amperage that changes with the voltage thus wire must be bigger for lower volatges because wire is sized on amperage rateings. I am also and electrian for ten years now licensed in 3 states. just wnated to clear that up :weed:
U are probably talking about the comment that I made that 220 is a little more efficient. In terms of power consumption u are correct, I was talking in terms of setup costs, like wire and breakers. Running 220v u need half the wire u do for 110v. When I was maxed out on my amps, I wanted to run 2000watts instead of 1000w, all I had to do was switch the connection to 220v and violla....
 

Hulk Nugs

Well-Known Member
Alright i got my self a humidistat and been thinking of how to hook it up.....took me come trys but i believe i have it right now..........i am just not to sure if the humidistat has like a sensor in it that will tell the humidity or is it just a guess? Pics on the bottom, as you can see i cut a plug off a power strip and i am going to use that to get power to my humidistat, i took your household plug and some wires hooked up the black wire from the outlet to the humidistat then took the black wire from the plug and hooked them all together using wire nuts, i also did that with the white wire and i hooked up the ground on the outlet to the plug, so the humidistat is in between the outlet and the plug witch im hoping will control the humidity of anything plugged into the outlet....do you think this will work ??
 

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XxstelxX

Active Member
Alright i got my self a humidistat and been thinking of how to hook it up.....took me come trys but i believe i have it right now..........i am just not to sure if the humidistat has like a sensor in it that will tell the humidity or is it just a guess? Pics on the bottom, as you can see i cut a plug off a power strip and i am going to use that to get power to my humidistat, i took your household plug and some wires hooked up the black wire from the outlet to the humidistat then took the black wire from the plug and hooked them all together using wire nuts, i also did that with the white wire and i hooked up the ground on the outlet to the plug, so the humidistat is in between the outlet and the plug witch im hoping will control the humidity of anything plugged into the outlet....do you think this will work ??

looks ok too me just make sure u are going into the LINE side of that gfci(outlet) gold screw black wire and silver screw gets whit wire. on the back it should say line and load on gfci. Line is power comeing in load is if u want to gcfi other outlets downstream from this gfci. New gfci's will not function if hooked up backwords old gfci's will function but if backwards will not give gfci protection. the humidstat is basically a single pole switch (on/or off). If the test button on the gfci does not reset u know u have it hooked up backwards. make sure those wire nuts are twisted nicely so u don't get a short cause gfci's are very sensative and will trip easy.:weed:
 

Hulk Nugs

Well-Known Member
right on man thanks after work today ill take out my humidifier and try it. so the humidistat does have a sensor that detects the humidity and will shut off and turn on whatever i set it to??
 

lorenzo08

Well-Known Member
Alright i got my self a humidistat and been thinking of how to hook it up.....took me come trys but i believe i have it right now..........i am just not to sure if the humidistat has like a sensor in it that will tell the humidity or is it just a guess? Pics on the bottom, as you can see i cut a plug off a power strip and i am going to use that to get power to my humidistat, i took your household plug and some wires hooked up the black wire from the outlet to the humidistat then took the black wire from the plug and hooked them all together using wire nuts, i also did that with the white wire and i hooked up the ground on the outlet to the plug, so the humidistat is in between the outlet and the plug witch im hoping will control the humidity of anything plugged into the outlet....do you think this will work ??
I can't tell what wire goes where. you don't have any white wires connected to the humidistat, do you?
 

GypsyBush

Well-Known Member
Uh... :dunce: Dumb ass here... in need of help before I set the house on fire...:spew:

GypsyBush said:
I am trying to get better power to my grow space...

I have an unused dryer plug/breaker rated for 50 amp...

I got some 10-3 cable, a dryer plug, and a box with 4x 240v outlets...

I was just going to wire all this like I was making an extension cord...

Am I crazy?

Do I NEED a relay? why?

My water heater timer's clock motor is rated for 120v, so I will have to get a new timer...

Also, on the 10-3 cable, there are 4 wires...

The uninsulated one is the ground (Green) right???

Red and black go together as the positive right????

The white is the neutral right????

Sorry to be so ignorant...

Ah, one last thing... the ballasts I have are digital 120/240 HPS/MH...

But the manual saya I need a diff. cord to use 240v... but the sockets I have work just fine with the cords... \\They are just trying to get another few bucks right? no diff other than the plug at the end?

Sorry to be such a dumb ass... but you all know me already...lol... :dunce:

Thanks and have a great day....

Gypsy...:weed:
User #420 said:
I know nothing of 240 wiring and won't give advice on something I don't know about. There is a thread n either general, indoor, or grow room design going on called "Electrical Questions I can help" which may help you. Good luck.
Well, what do you think?

Thanks !!!

G:leaf:ypsy...
 

lorenzo08

Well-Known Member
Uh... :dunce: Dumb ass here... in need of help before I set the house on fire...:spew:

Well, what do you think?

Thanks !!!

G:leaf:ypsy...
I think this may be over your head. the back and red wires do NOT go together. they are both hot wires, 240 volts. something like this, you never ever want to splice together like an extension cord, you'll end up with a fire in no time. on a lighter note, you'll have to switch out the breaker to a 30 amp if it's a 50. 10 gage is rated for 30 amps and not more. you need someone who knows what they are doing to hook this up for you. you'll need it to go into a sub panel with smaller circuit breakers to branch off from there to 20 amp outlets.

they aren't just trying to get more money out of you this time. there is a different type of outlet that is rated for the higher voltage, 240, and wont let 120v appliances fit into the outlet. this is a big safety thing, you don't want to use a 120 volt outlet for 240, it's way to easy to plug in the wrong thing.
 

Hulk Nugs

Well-Known Member
yea the white wire is hooked up to the other black wire on the humidistat .... there are two black wires on the humidistat, they both have writing on them but one has more then other i hooked up the black wire coming off the outlet to the black wire on the humidistat then connected the plug black wire to the two black wires from the humidistat and outlet...........then i took the white wire on the outlet and connected it to the other black wire onthe humidistat then connnected the white wire from the plug to the black wire from the humidistat and white wire from the outlet.......then i hooked up the ground from the outlet and the ground from the plug together.

you get it ??
 
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