Electrical shock from stripbuild

Hash Hound

Well-Known Member
getting back to the house electric, you can buy a cheap tester you plug in an outlet and it will show if the hot and neutral are reversed. If so it may even leak voltage back in when the unit is turned off.
 

HippieDudeRon

Well-Known Member
Hmm. The problem is back again.
I removed the fan and now get shocked again.

My growtent is on rockwool plates to prevent it from touching the (concrete) floor.
Could this be part of the problem?
What do you mean you get shocked? Like an actual arc occurs between your finger and the fixture?
Or like metal that feel smooth with no power now feels bumpy with power on?
Or what exactly are you feeling when you say shocked?

Over all first guess...sounds like your frame/where ever is shocking you isn't grounded properly.
 

Roy O'Bannon

Well-Known Member
You might hire an electrician to come out. It isn’t worth your life. Somebody describing something is never as good as seeing it irl by a pro.
 

goofy81

Well-Known Member
Once i felt a tingle putting my hand in my res,
Out of curiosity i put the multimeter and behold it was measuring up to 100v. (240v GPO's here)
Luckily i didn't get shocked as i don't think i was the easiest path to ground.
 

MidnightSun72

Well-Known Member
Hmm. The problem is back again.
I removed the fan and now get shocked again.

My growtent is on rockwool plates to prevent it from touching the (concrete) floor.
Could this be part of the problem?
If you have a multimeter. What I would do is this. Take the plug end of your light and your multi meter. Set it to ohMs or Contuity check. And see if you have continuity between the hot and the aluminum frame, between the neutral and the aluminum frame. And the ground pin and your aluminum frame.

then again on the DC side of the drivers. I'd check contuity between DC- to frame and DC+ to frame.
If any of those show continuity where you haven't purposely connected to the frame then that's where to look for the short.
 

MidnightSun72

Well-Known Member
If you have a multimeter. What I would do is this. Take the plug end of your light and your multi meter. Set it to ohMs or Contuity check. And see if you have continuity between the hot and the aluminum frame, between the neutral and the aluminum frame. And the ground pin and your aluminum frame.

then again on the DC side of the drivers. I'd check contuity between DC- to frame and DC+ to frame.
If any of those show continuity where you haven't purposely connected to the frame then that's where to look for the short.
And if it's none of those for continuity. Then I'd tend to think you have an outlet wiring problem.
 

Herb & Suds

Well-Known Member
I'm sorry but if you have a solid ground it will go to ground before shocking you
Is this an old house or something cause it still sounds like you aren't grounded properly ?
 

Geert

Active Member
I'm sorry but if you have a solid ground it will go to ground before shocking you
Is this an old house or something cause it still sounds like you aren't grounded properly ?
I Will test the grounding in my house soon.
I had 6 24v fans for venting, if i don't use these, the problem seems gone.
 

Lockedin

Well-Known Member
Hmm. The problem is back again.
I removed the fan and now get shocked again.

My growtent is on rockwool plates to prevent it from touching the (concrete) floor.
Could this be part of the problem?
Turn everything on - do you still feel it?
-Turn everything off.

Ground your tent to the concrete floor.
Turn everything on - do you still feel it?

I isolate my power supplies from touching my frame at all (I'm on U.S. 110v).
 

Geert

Active Member
I'm still wondering what was causing a voltage potential between the frame and earth.
It is verry strange.
I was running 2 Times 3 *4watt fans parralel on drivers, so 6 in Total.
If i would power driver A the problem would occur.
If i would power driver B the problem also would occur.

Right now i have all 6 fans installed in driver A and its fine.
Looks like the driver can't handle such low wattage and dimm the fans also.
 

HippieDudeRon

Well-Known Member
It is verry strange.
I was running 2 Times 3 *4watt fans parralel on drivers, so 6 in Total.
If i would power driver A the problem would occur.
If i would power driver B the problem also would occur.

Right now i have all 6 fans installed in driver A and its fine.
Looks like the driver can't handle such low wattage and dimm the fans also.
There is no acceptable reason that a driver should shock you in anypoint in its range.

What do you mean when you say you get shocked? an actual arc from metal to skin?
 

1212ham

Well-Known Member
Lack of bonding. That’s why bonding is so important, to equalize potential.
if everything is tied together, the grounding conductor carries faults and trips the breaker. If not? You get to be a energized conductor.
I understand that bonding/grounding equalizes potential, but what is energizing the frame in the first place?
 
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