Enaks 12x CXB3590 COB 2 panel DIY LED

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Enak11

Member
Hi All,

Let me start by saying, like many other noobs, that this forum is fantastic and without it, there is no way I could even consider building this DIY LED, so thank you to all of you contributors, you truly rock!

I am a new grower and have done a ridiculous amount of research on grow methodologies and also lights. After learning about the different commercial lights available, I've come to the conclusion like many of you that I can build my own LED for cheaper and get more bang for my money. I have read most of Growmau's videos and watched and read a lot of Realstyles threads on his DIY lights. I'm building a light for a 4x4 grow room.

I'm going to build a 12 COB LED using CXB 3590 lights. I'm leaning towards building 2 panels with the COBs laid out in a 2x6 layout and placing them on a 10 in x 30 in heatsink. Trying to decide if it would be better to use 2 drivers or 1 driver. I think I'd like to drive the COBs to between 50 and 60% efficiency. I know if I wanted to go with one driver I could use a meanwell HLG 240h-c1050b. I would need 1 driver for each panel, would it be better to use 2 drivers instead? Some guidance on this would be very helpful.

I'm also considering building a 3 bar LED with 4 COB on each bar. If I did that I believe it'd be best to use 5.88x36 inch bars (please confirm this). One thing I was struggling to think of was how I will attach the 3 bars together (to make it one panel) if I went this route.

Finally, I have some questions about the color of the COBs. I have seen that a lot of people prefer the 3500K cobs, but I've seen some mix in 4000k and 5000k colors as well and even some 6500k. What combination do you think would be best for this 12 COB light? Should I just go with the 3500k lights or mix some other colors in?

Apologies if any of these answers are easily found, I did a lot of reading and still have some uncertainty about the above questions. I look forward to your responses and using the knowledge I learn to help others in the future!
 
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Enak11

Member
After some research I'm now leaning towards doing a 3 bar light with 4 COB per bar. I'm going to use these heatsinks from heatsinkusa:

http://www.heatsinkusa.com/5-886-wide-extruded-aluminum-heatsink/

I was thinking about buying one of these to connect the bars together, I'd run it along the top of the heatsinks and then maybe cut a 5 inch hole in into this for a fan for each heatsink. What size fan do you guys think would be best for this? 120 mm? or is there something that you think would be better to use to hold the 3 heatsinks together?

I'm also leaning towards just doing all 3000k or 3500k lights, still reading as much as I can to see if I learn something new that will help me decide.

Since I'm doing a 3 bar light, would it be best to use 2 drivers and go 6 COB per led or just use 3 drivers and run 4 COB per driver?
 
Atulip

Atulip

Well-Known Member
Since you're going with 12 cob, 3 bar design, there's not much need for joining them together unless you prefer having to hang up a a single 3'x3' light rather than a few 3'x6" bars. I'd give each one a driver and make it it's own light. Drill a few holes through the heatsink for wire/ratchet hangers and call it a day.

But some angled aluminum works fine for joining things together.
 
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Enak11

Member
Atulip said:
Since you're going with 12 cob, 3 bar design, there's not much need for joining them together unless you prefer having to hang up a a single 3'x3' light rather than a few 3'x6" bars. I'd give each one a driver and make it it's own light. Drill a few holes through the heatsink for wire/ratchet hangers and call it a day.

But some angled aluminum works fine for joining things together.
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Do you have a recommendation for which driver to use if I want to run one driver per panel. I'm torn between running them at 50 or 60% efficiency (I believe this would be choosing between the 1050 and 1400ma drivers, is that correct?). One of the main reason I'm thinking about connecting them is that it'll give me additional space to mount the driver to the bar holding the 3 heatsinks together instead of attaching directly to the heat sink but I'm not sure if this actually adds any benefit or just makes it look nicer.
 
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Enak11

Member
Airwalker16 said:
Check out the first page of my thread to see how I connected my 5.886" x 36" bars together.

It's called "My 8- 3590 COB DIY".View attachment 3707510
Click to expand...
Is the material you used to connect the heat sinks aluminum? Where did you buy them from?

I like your idea to connect the bars because then I wouldnt have to cut aluminum to make fan holes. I also like your driver placement. How much space do you have between the two heat sinks?
 
Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Enak11 said:
Is the material you used to connect the heat sinks aluminum? Where did you buy them from?

I like your idea to connect the bars because then I wouldnt have to cut aluminum to make fan holes. I also like your driver placement. How much space do you have between the two heat sinks?
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It's all aluminum from home depot. 1"angle and 3" flat bars. There is 18" between. If yours is for a 4x4, put them 12" apart for 3. Use a riveter to connect it all. $8 @ harbor freight
 
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Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Enak11 said:
Do you have a recommendation for which driver to use if I want to run one driver per panel. I'm torn between running them at 50 or 60% efficiency (I believe this would be choosing between the 1050 and 1400ma drivers, is that correct?). One of the main reason I'm thinking about connecting them is that it'll give me additional space to mount the driver to the bar holding the 3 heatsinks together instead of attaching directly to the heat sink but I'm not sure if this actually adds any benefit or just makes it look nicer.
Click to expand...
If I were you, with 4 cobs per heatsink, I'd go even more so. Hlg240h-c1750b gets you 64watts or if you CAN afford it get the new hlg320h-c2100b's and run them at 73 watts. The thing is to always get a B version driver and you can just dim them to whatever you want from 0-1750/0-2100. You can always dim, but if you skimp out on the juice needed to go higher, you can't ever get it back on a lower amperage driver. ;)
Mine are on 240-c1750b. But that was before 320's were even available.
 
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Enak11

Member
I would need 3 Hlg240h-c1750b, is that right? Can I run the 3 140mm fans off of the same drivers as well or do I need to get a separate one for them?
 
Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Enak11 said:
I would need 3 Hlg240h-c1750b, is that right? Can I run the 3 140mm fans off of the same drivers as well or do I need to get a separate one for them?
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You'd need to use meanwell APV12-12's to run the fans. My 140mm fans were 0.5amp fans and the APV12-12 has 1 amp of current so I needed 2 of them to get all 4 140mm fans. But you just gotta see what amperage your fans need. Most all the cpu cooler fans and 120mm fans always only need 0.25 amps but it depends. So see what the box says when you get them and use what you need.
 
Atulip

Atulip

Well-Known Member
If that's like the 140mm PLC sinks. The. Yes. Running them at 75w each myself currently.

IMAG2111.jpg
 
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Enak11

Member
This could actually work perfectly for me to save on the fans and go passive because my room will be in a basement so it will get chilly down there in the winter, so using here as free heat and have my inline fan circulate the air outside could work out really well for me. I just sent Pacific a message, hoping they will get them in stock soon. I am leaning heavily in this direction if anyone has any thoughts to share on this build I'm listening.
 
Atulip

Atulip

Well-Known Member
Well fans don't eliminate heat, they just move it. Actually they would add a little more heat to the room since they use electricity. :bigjoint:
 
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