estimated yield for DIY LED guys?

i just bought a used HLG 550. i have an advanced platinum p300. I'm putting both lights in 4x4 tent. in 5 gal. smart pots. FFOF. blue amnesia xxl autoflowers. advanced nutrient suite (4ml/l) and cal mag (2ml/l). temp steady at 82f. not adding co2, but 6inch inline fan.

IK people say 1g/w is normal, but i think that's bullshit.

anyone with more experience than me that'll give me expected yield?

Easy elbow.

Paper Hat Guy said:

i just bought a used HLG 550. i have an advanced platinum p300. I'm putting both lights in 4x4 tent. in 5 gal. smart pots. FFOF. blue amnesia xxl autoflowers. advanced nutrient suite (4ml/l) and cal mag (2ml/l). temp steady at 82f. not adding co2, but 6inch inline fan.

IK people say 1g/w is normal, but i think that's bullshit.

anyone with more experience than me that'll give me expected yield?

Click to expand...

Bout a pound dry

About a pound

Paper Hat Guy said:

i just bought a used HLG 550. i have an advanced platinum p300. I'm putting both lights in 4x4 tent. in 5 gal. smart pots. FFOF. blue amnesia xxl autoflowers. advanced nutrient suite (4ml/l) and cal mag (2ml/l). temp steady at 82f. not adding co2, but 6inch inline fan.

IK people say 1g/w is normal, but i think that's bullshit.

anyone with more experience than me that'll give me expected yield?

Click to expand...

You have to factor in square footage when talking gpw it takes experience to get 2-3 oz per square foot you should be happy with 1 oz per square foot for your first couple grows with that much light just make sure you have a full canopy. I wouldn't run the p300 unless your trying to add some heat to the tent

thanks, guys. I was thinking at least 1000 grams because that's (both lights) comparable to a SE 1400w HPS, right? it gets pretty cold in my part of the world, so the extra heat produced by p300 isnt an issue.

considering I dont really have to move much air (and I have a good amount of light), would running co2 be a good option now? I'm still very much a noob, but I'm learning fast. I appreciate everyones input

also, if not co2, what could I do to increase yield? thanks

it's also worth noting that I've got 9 plants in my tent to utilize all the light/hlg form factor

Paper Hat Guy said:

also, if not co2, what could I do to increase yield? thanks

Click to expand...

Lst, scrogg, topping and fim, and lollipoping. Look into that

Im running autos so i cant really do any of these haha I do have one plant that's relatively big (maybr 3.5 ft a week into flower) and I topped her and defoliated bottom 1/3 of branches

Paper Hat Guy said:

Im running autos so i cant really do any of these haha I do have one plant that's relatively big (maybr 3.5 ft a week into flower) and I topped her and defoliated bottom 1/3 of branches

Click to expand...

Yes u can lst them, lollipop and scrogg., That will give u a lot more

Paper Hat Guy said:

also, if not co2, what could I do to increase yield? thanks

Click to expand...

If you're not careful with CO2 it will do more harm than good. You can't exactly just blindly pump a tank of CO2 into the tent or keep chunks of dry ice sitting around, its best to use a CO2 ppm meter and adjustable regulator with a tank, which are all relatively costly. There is a lot of misinformation out there in regards to CO2 enrichment. There are optimal levels and above optimal levels, no beneficial effects will be seen. I'm not saying CO2 doesn't work, it just has to be done right.

Because you're using soil I would recommend three things, other than the obvious LST, Topping, etc.

A quality Mycorrhizal fungi inoculant (ie. MYKES) will work wonders, especially when combined with Molasses or another source of carbohydrates. Mycorrhizae can increase the bidirectional carbon movement in plants by as much as 20% and increase yield by approximately the same percentage.

Pure Humic Acid (PHA) or Pure Fulvic Acid powder which are recognized as the single most productive inputs for sustainable agriculture. I'm aware fulvic acid is already present in the Advanced Nutrients formulas you already use, and like anything else humic and fulvic acid can be overused, but in my experience, they can be used in much higher quantities than often present in pre-mixed nutrient formulas. Stay away from bottled humic acid made from Leonardite like "Humax" and just be sure to keep an eye on Ph. That will tell you if you're overdoing it.

Soluble Silica such as Potassium Silicate (or even a small amount of Diatomaceous earth lightly tilled into the surface of the soil seems to have benefits in my experience). I believe Advanced nutrients has a Silica product available but I'm not too familiar with it.

1 gram per watt is definitely bullshit. Not only does yield depend greatly on many other factors, wattage does not determine lumen output of a light. Grams per lumen is a more accurate measurement, but even that is nothing close to a guarantee.

Cheers!

cannetix Inc said:

If you're not careful with CO2 it will do more harm than good. You can't exactly just blindly pump a tank of CO2 into the tent or keep chunks of dry ice sitting around, its best to use a CO2 ppm meter and adjustable regulator with a tank, which are all relatively costly. There is a lot of misinformation out there in regards to CO2 enrichment. There are optimal levels and above optimal levels, no beneficial effects will be seen. I'm not saying CO2 doesn't work, it just has to be done right.

Because you're using soil I would recommend three things, other than the obvious LST, Topping, etc.

A quality Mycorrhizal fungi inoculant (ie. MYKES) will work wonders, especially when combined with Molasses or another source of carbohydrates. Mycorrhizae can increase the bidirectional carbon movement in plants by as much as 20% and increase yield by approximately the same percentage.

Pure Humic Acid (PHA) or Pure Fulvic Acid powder which are recognized as the single most productive inputs for sustainable agriculture. I'm aware fulvic acid is already present in the Advanced Nutrients formulas you already use, and like anything else humic and fulvic acid can be overused, but in my experience, they can be used in much higher quantities than often present in pre-mixed nutrient formulas. Stay away from bottled humic acid made from Leonardite like "Humax" and just be sure to keep an eye on Ph. That will tell you if you're overdoing it.

Soluble Silica such as Potassium Silicate (or even a small amount of Diatomaceous earth lightly tilled into the surface of the soil seems to have benefits in my experience). I believe Advanced nutrients has a Silica product available but I'm not too familiar with it.

1 gram per watt is definitely bullshit. Not only does yield depend greatly on many other factors, wattage does not determine lumen output of a light. Grams per lumen is a more accurate measurement, but even that is nothing close to a guarantee.

Cheers!

Click to expand...

thank you for the info!!! I'm familiar w CO2, but had no idea about Mycorrhiza other than noticing it on FF bags. Pure Humic Acid (PHA) or Pure Fulvic Acid powder is completely foreign to me. Now to scour the internet for more info! It's good to have a place to start. As I understand, lumens measure light perceptible to humans and wavelength is what's necessary for plant growth; what's more, wattage is a unit of dissipation, unrelated to actual photon radiation.

it helps me to learn by typing it out. my bad if I'm coming off as a try hard. feel free to expand if Im mistaken. i wouldnt have guessed what an awesome resource this forum is. I love the community vibe.

Tupapa said:

Yes u can lst them, lollipop and scrogg., That will give u a lot more

Click to expand...

fuck lol im getting conflicting information. my genetics are the one terminal cola type, so i dont thing a scrog would make any difference. I did top the biggest plant, so we'll see. I'm thinking my next grow (this harvest will be my second) will be all photos. now to find beans from USA breeder..

With the autos , you have a limited amount of time ( usually under 90 days ) to get them decent. FFOF is a " hotter " bag soil than most but will carry those plants BY ITSELF up to week 5/6 - it has pretty much if everything already in it .... Therefore it is easy to burn your plants since this soil is hotter THEN you add MORE NUTES and really burn shit up.

Since using FFOF , I had to CUT the soil into a 60/40 ratio with a good peat veg/garden soil mix .... I lined bottom 1/3 of pot with FFOF ( and some more perlite ) then finished with garden mix. Easy ..... Like Sunday morning.

Autos are fickle and any little fuckup will affect them ( hence yield ).
Stick to ONE LIGHT SCHEDULE ( 18/6 )
The QUANTUMS will open your eyes .... It is more than enough to grow.
Forget the platinum ....
If single cola plant strains .... Let them rip as they are.
Other AUTOS will have apex ( main Cola ) with side branching ( LST the branching ).
Some autos can be topped ( some of them ) ...
Keep PH stable - 6.5 ...... If you lockout growing autos , you might as well cry.
They do not have time to recover like photo strains - and most likely will stunt / stall or worse throw hermie at you. FFOF has oyster shell to buffer the PH ( 6.3ish ).
I use TAP water ph to 6.5 , that's it . I don't leave out to vape off chlorine , chlorine is actually an essential element. Forget the RO , distilled , baby pee or whatever bullshit holy water you may have read.

Using LEDs ( whether quantum or plat 300 ) your plants may need some CALMAG during its grow. Plants will not transpire as with a HID light . Since the quantums are passive , you will notice a different heat presence than with other lights ... They run quite cool ...I have been running mine with no more than a couple of oscillating fans moving air.

XXL autos do well in yield - but the MOST IMPORTANT THING :

Breeder Harvest times are ONLY A GUIDE , NOT REALTIME , autos ALWAYS do better running longer than advertised, especially Sativa or Sativa heavy hybrids. Forget counting weeks , only watch triches .

Budzbuddha said:

With the autos , you have a limited amount of time ( usually under 90 days ) to get them decent. FFOF is a " hotter " bag soil than most but will carry those plants BY ITSELF up to week 5/6 - it has pretty much if everything already in it .... Therefore it is easy to burn your plants since this soil is hotter THEN you add MORE NUTES and really burn shit up.

Since using FFOF , I had to CUT the soil into a 60/40 ratio with a good peat veg/garden soil mix .... I lined bottom 1/3 of pot with FFOF ( and some more perlite ) then finished with garden mix. Easy ..... Like Sunday morning.

Autos are fickle and any little fuckup will affect them ( hence yield ).
Stick to ONE LIGHT SCHEDULE ( 18/6 )
The QUANTUMS will open your eyes .... It is more than enough to grow.
Forget the platinum ....
If single cola plant strains .... Let them rip as they are.
Other AUTOS will have apex ( main Cola ) with side branching ( LST the branching ).
Some autos can be topped ( some of them ) ...
Keep PH stable - 6.5 ...... If you lockout growing autos , you might as well cry.
They do not have time to recover like photo strains - and most likely will stunt / stall or worse throw hermie at you. FFOF has oyster shell to buffer the PH ( 6.3ish ).
I use TAP water ph to 6.5 , that's it . I don't leave out to vape off chlorine , chlorine is actually an essential element. Forget the RO , distilled , baby pee or whatever bullshit holy water you may have read.

Using LEDs ( whether quantum or plat 300 ) your plants may need some CALMAG during its grow. Plants will not transpire as with a HID light . Since the quantums are passive , you will notice a different heat presence than with other lights ... They run quite cool ...I have been running mine with no more than a couple of oscillating fans moving air.

XXL autos do well in yield - but the MOST IMPORTANT THING :

Breeder Harvest times are ONLY A GUIDE , NOT REALTIME , autos ALWAYS do better running longer than advertised, especially Sativa or Sativa heavy hybrids. Forget counting weeks , only watch triches .

Click to expand...

Thanks!! I've been adding cal-mag at 2ml/L because I noticed chlorosis on two plants (of the same strain). I diluted FFOF with maybe 40% perlite, which i figured would help aeration along w mitigating potential toxicity. Now I'm getting necrosis, and I'm struggling to know why. I hadnt fed at all up until i noticed the issue (mabye 1.1 month old) and began when I noticed it, thinking it was just nute def. Now it's been a week, hasnt gotten any better, and I'm at a loss. The plant looks well (to my noob eyes) developmentally, but idk. I'm thinking maybe pull the troublesome two leaves and wait and see?

here's the image: http://ibb.co/jEogRR

GrowGorilla said:

About a pound

Click to expand...

You couldn't resist ahahha

Cannabis.Queen said:

You couldn't resist ahahha

Click to expand...

Nah! It never gets old lmao

If your out to rack up as much weight per watt using led you might want to go with WOS Wild Thai. A haze and a true tropical strain that can tolerate high temps and more Nitrogen than any strain I have ever come across. Really loves the 6500k Cree CXB-3590. World of Seeds offers it in both reg. and fem. Unfortunately after growing it I see it's presence in a too many other strains. Before it came along it was easy to eliminate pheno types based upon low trichome numbers. It is too easy for someone to bump up their strain's trichomes by using WT. All I can say is it is easy to get burned out on that WT lemon taste. I have watered WT with the run off from other plants. Produces a squat dark green plant with leaves that can have either long slender blades or thicker blades..but not to the point of confusing with Indica. When taking down the plant and doing the manicure your eyes will be irritated. Moderate flower time and does really well in coco.....just allow extra room.

If your not getting 1 gram per watt you probably could have been more aggressive with the nutrients.

I am shocked you found a used HLG. I love my light and will never get rid of it.