I recently got access to a 35 watt HPS. My question is, its a sealed box with the light on the bottom of it. There are 3 raw wires coming out, one labeled 120 volt.
Can i just cut a computer monitor power cable to hook this up to my standard house outlet.
There is no on/off switch on this box. What do you think of that?
Any help /expertise is appreciated!!
then its not a MH/HPS. If a MH works and a HPS doesn't, its a MH ballast. HPS have the extra igniter.bigbudballs
my ballast is an industrial type
like the ones u see in basketball gyms n shit...there are no switches..just a bunch of wires so i can run it at a 120 200 260 n 400 some shit like that....where would this switch be?? would u like a picture of my ballast??
Do the math. The math has been posted, probably, once on each page of this thread.is 2500 watts to much to run in a standard outlets in one room?
Hi all. Can anyone tell me if its safe to use a standard 4-way plug adaptor with my kit.
Im running an rvk 100 extraction fan/ an oscillating fan/ my ballast with contactor & timer etc {250w hps}.
Ive been using a standard one for a while now with no probs, but im just wondering if i should invest in a surge protector 4 way adaptor for safety ?
Im not even sure what surge protection is etc. Would it be safer to use one in any way ?
Thanks.
hi that nameplate data you posted is for the optics and not the ballast. somewhere on the light should be the model# of the light and it will tell you what lamp type to use. that light is not for both MH and HPS lamps.there is no switch inside the cage..just wires to be ran at different voltage... and on the sticker it says hps,mh,hg 450w max..mh runs but when i stick the hps it wont light up..i hear the magnet kick on but no light
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i have a question, and I currently have my own theory, which I use for safety, but I think i am wrong.
for dc fans and dc adapters. lets say the fans states that it requires 12 volt at .90 amp, which means 10.8~watts, im pretty sure. well lets say i have a 9 volt dc adapter at 1.2 amps, which equals 10.8~watts, again, im pretty sure. will this still run the fan at the same performance for the same duration as it would have receiving the 12 volt/.90 amp required by manufacturer? or 6 volt X 1.8 = 10.8?
Yes power consumption will be the same (well there probably be a bit more used in this sample since the motor won't be spinning at peak efficiency, but nothing to worry about)now what about power consumption? a watt is a watt in this case, right? the lower volts are equalizing the higher amperages right?
is there anything y'all experienced fellows see newbs do with these things that are no-no's?
You will not see even a penny saved.i try to match the amps and volts, seems safest and for best performance. dont want these things failing. but if I can safely lower the amps and/or volts without damaging the unit, i know performance will degrade with cfm and pressures, i may be able to safe a few watts.
i aint worried bout about flagging the light company i use under 200 watts. but i try to safe a penny when i can, ya know.
im using the fans for circulation and exhaust of my cabinet.Yes power consumption will be the same (well there probably be a bit more used in this sample since the motor won't be spinning at peak efficiency, but nothing to worry about)
Dropping the voltage isn't a great thing to do, but is OK. From 12 to 9 is nearly a 25% drop. I wouldn't go lower then that.
You will not see even a penny saved.
What are you using the fan for? And the typical PC fans?