Experienced Electrician! Here to Answer Any and All Growroom Electrical Questions

wyteboi

Well-Known Member
well i am subscribed and it looks like u are too ........ so we got this :blsmoke:


i have been a home/dope electrician for 10 years now :bigjoint:
 

wyteboi

Well-Known Member
Whats up brick!

Thanks for the open mic/ Q&A

I have 100 amp service panel @ the pole i am in so-cal and live a property where at one time there were 2 mobile homes, there is a service box where there the old mobile was and there is service to the remaining mobile. My question is
can i/ how do i? tie into this junction box use some direct burial cable and travel 40 feet to a out building then setup up a 200sq.ft. grow?

thank you if i need to clarify anything plmk

-fishing
if u are not scared of electricity then tie right into it , using a underground wire. (how many watts incuding fans are you wanting to use?)
UF wire is the wire u will need. (it can be buried)
you can just tap right into it and add a plug or the safest way would be to add a junction box (a disconnect) and run your uf wire from there . that way there is a breaker on the circuit/circuits you are needing.:bigjoint:
 

curioushiker

Active Member
Wyteboi and Roland just wanted to say thanks for the help you guys are giving here. I know electrical can be a real pain in the ass. Especially when what we need is not there.
On the bright side. Electricity is pretty black and white, no gray areas there. If those that are wiring their rooms do not have the correct size wiring in place already then take the time to run the wire needed. If money is an issue as it is for most of us then I would recommend running One less light and ballast (if using Two or more) and use that saved money to upgrade the wiring. In most cases it is easily done.
Anyway, please dont skimp on the wiring. The results can be dangerous.
 

True Stoner

Active Member
U need to add up your total wattage and divide by 110 to determine amps used ..

changing a 15 amp receptacle to a 20 A receptacle doesn't keep you from tripping breakers ..
Thanks for the info buddy i just added up everything besides the heat mat and i came out with 1313 watts divided by 110 gave me 11.93 watts so im well under. Thanks again!!
 

treemansbuds

Well-Known Member
Hello Mr Electricty-
Setting up a grow room 12x16, i'm running 10 gauge wire underground in conduit to my shed about 80' (grow room). Into a breaker box with 240v- 20amp breaker to support the 2-1000watt HPS flowering lights and the 400 watt MH light in the veg room (11.9 amps). And another 120v-20amp breaker to support the rest of the equipment (fans, A/C, pumps, 2' floursents)
Question will this work?
What Ballast do you recommend?
Digital or magmnetic?
I hear about "liner loads" and "non linar loads" I have no idea what they are talking about and was hoping for some input.
Thanks,
Treemansbuds-
 

consume

Active Member
An 'OR' is a control that allows either A and/or B turn on C.
and 'AND' needs both A & B to turn on C
and a 'XOR' (exclusive OR) can only have A or B turn on C (if A & B are on, C will still be off)

ORs are easiest to do, power gets fed from 2 sources to the device
(but like I said, needs wired right polarity-wise hot vs neutral. mix them up and you will pop breakers.)

So I am a cheap bastard.... Instead of buying a controller with humidity and temp, I just bought the temp. Now my room is running humid (80-85%) before the fans turn on to cool the room. I'm worried that mold may start to invade.

Is there a way that i can hook up the same exhaust fan to both the temp contoller and then add in a humidity controller also to the same fan by using a "OR" circuit? How would I wire this? Would i have to worry about feedback from either controller towards the other?

Diodes?
 

Roland

Active Member
Hello Mr Electricty-
Setting up a grow room 12x16, i'm running 10 gauge wire underground in conduit to my shed about 80' (grow room). Into a breaker box with 240v- 20amp breaker to support the 2-1000watt HPS flowering lights and the 400 watt MH light in the veg room (11.9 amps). And another 120v-20amp breaker to support the rest of the equipment (fans, A/C, pumps, 2' floursents)
Question will this work?
What Ballast do you recommend?
Digital or magmnetic?
I hear about "liner loads" and "non linar loads" I have no idea what they are talking about and was hoping for some input.
Thanks,
Treemansbuds-
2 x 1000 + 400 /240 = 10 amps

u need to total wattages for your 110V circuit and divide by 110 .. but 20 A circuit is PROB'LY OK

Digital (electronic) ballasts are more expensive .. give off less heat .. are quieter .and use slightly less current ... your call

not sure what u mean by "liner" and "non-linar" loads ..unless they are talking about distance ... over 200 feet requires wire guage increase..

line .. and load ... are labeled lugs in a transformer or a disconnect .. .. line = source .. load = device
 

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treemansbuds

Well-Known Member
2 x 1000 + 400 /240 = 10 amps

u need to total wattages for your 110V circuit and divide by 110 .. but 20 A circuit is PROB'LY OK

Digital (electronic) ballasts are more expensive .. give off less heat .. are quieter .and use slightly less current ... your call

not sure what u mean by "liner" and "non-linar" loads ..unless they are talking about distance ... over 200 feet requires wire guage increase..

line .. and load ... are labeled lugs in a transformer or a disconnect .. .. line = source .. load = device
Roland-
Thanks for the 411.
Do you recommend GFI outlets for the 120v?
I'm wired and live to the breaker box, and I have 1 120v outlet installed ;-) so I can see what I'm doing. I start wiring up the room tomorrow and installing fan/ducting after that.
Glad 2 know your here if I needed.......thanks again!
Treemansbuds-
 

Roland

Active Member
Roland-
Thanks for the 411.
Do you recommend GFI outlets for the 120v?
I'm wired and live to the breaker box, and I have 1 120v outlet installed ;-) so I can see what I'm doing. I start wiring up the room tomorrow and installing fan/ducting after that.
Glad 2 know your here if I needed.......thanks again!
Treemansbuds-
By code ... any electrical device within 6 ft of WATER .. must be GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interruptor) protected ...

It's there to protect people ..in case a Hair dryer falls into the bathtub (just an example ) or to keep you from being electrocuted if you are standing in water
 

curioushiker

Active Member
warm .. yeah ... HOT ... no ...

120 Volt ?

2000W/ 120 V =16.6 amps
15 amp circuit ? U R overloaded
Roland, does the formula work the same for 240v? In other words:
2000W/ 240v=8.3?
I am using the C.A.P. light controller that has Eight sockets. It is rated for either 120v or 240v.
It is rated at only 40amps. The reason I say only 40amps is because if all the spaces were used to run Eight 1000w lights then the amps being used would be no less than 33amps running 240v would be no less than 66amps running 120v.
Am I too close to the 40 amp rating to be on the safe side?
 

Roland

Active Member
Roland, does the formula work the same for 240v? In other words:
2000W/ 240v=8.3?
I am using the C.A.P. light controller that has Eight sockets. It is rated for either 120v or 240v.
It is rated at only 40amps. The reason I say only 40amps is because if all the spaces were used to run Eight 1000w lights then the amps being used would be no less than 33amps running 240v would be no less than 66amps running 120v.
Am I too close to the 40 amp rating to be on the safe side?
Yup .. works the same ... I would use 230 for calculations ... reason is 120 .. isn't ALWAYS 120 ..it varies ..... distance to source, time of day etc.... I've seen 117 in the morning and 113 in the afternoon

220/240 works on phase A and Phase B cycles ..110 +110 = 200

117 -117 = 234 .. get my point ?

lights fans etc. draw a slight surge in current at "start-up"

generally .. it's a good idea to supply 125% of load ... it is most important with motors

you will still be protected from overload at 99.9% of available current as long as your circuit breaker is rated for 100% max cont. load
 

Roland

Active Member
So I am a cheap bastard.... Instead of buying a controller with humidity and temp, I just bought the temp. Now my room is running humid (80-85%) before the fans turn on to cool the room. I'm worried that mold may start to invade.

Is there a way that i can hook up the same exhaust fan to both the temp contoller and then add in a humidity controller also to the same fan by using a "OR" circuit? How would I wire this? Would i have to worry about feedback from either controller towards the other?

Diodes?

hmmmmmm ... kind of a tough ..lengthy one .....

if your humidity controller .. uses the same circuit as your temp controller ... you COULD feed the supply wire to your fan ..from both controllers then your fan would come on "either" from temp or humidity Ctrlr
 

nickbbad

New Member
I'm not an electrician though and just stumbled across your question in the process of trying to find an answer to mine. Sorry if I'm stepping on toes.
Just wondering if anyone has hooked up 2 1000 watt lights to 1 1000 watt ballast, on a consecutive 12/12 light cycle.

I've never made one but have been interested in making a flip/flop relay anyway if you search around you can find plans for them here is a good DIY flip/flop relay tutorial but you have to sign up to the site to see the pics. http://forums.mycotopia.net/cannabis/22515-diy-flipflop-relay-run-2-lamps-off-1-ballast-grow-more-efficiently.html :leaf:
 

consume

Active Member
hmmmmmm ... kind of a tough ..lengthy one .....

if your humidity controller .. uses the same circuit as your temp controller ... you COULD feed the supply wire to your fan ..from both controllers then your fan would come on "either" from temp or humidity Ctrlr
Do you see a downside?
 

Roland

Active Member
I've never made one but have been interested in making a flip/flop relay anyway if you search around you can find plans for them here is a good DIY flip/flop relay tutorial but you have to sign up to the site to see the pics. http://forums.mycotopia.net/cannabis/22515-diy-flipflop-relay-run-2-lamps-off-1-ballast-grow-more-efficiently.html :leaf:

I think that is made to switch one off when the other comes on most ballasts are made for a single lamp .. You might be able to find a 2 lamp ballast .. but I don't know of one for Gro-lights
 

travish413

Well-Known Member
this is completely untrue....... maybe YOU should not be fuckin with electricity? a 240 volt outlet does not need ANY certain size wire/breaker.! with it being only 2amp@240 then you can SAFELY use a 14/2 wire for this "240" outlet. a 10 wire is totally unnecessary for a single 600. now u git this guy thinkin he is "unsafe" thats not cool!
a 110 and a 220 are the same thing except ONE extra hot ..... thats all.
Brick you might wanna take ur thread back. these folks are being mislead.......

:joint:
Ok, you can run 12/2 with a 240/120v 20amp outlet. This guy was coming off a 40 amp breaker that his dryer was already hooked up on and wanted to use 12/2 and you are saying this is safe? I thought there was certain gauges you had to use for seperate size breakers. Like the 40 amp that he is using, shouldnt he be using 8 gauge? Please enlightn me...
 

BigBudBalls

Well-Known Member
Normally I'd agree, but it's a ballast which I don't know much about, and it looks like it has a big magnet. Reversing the positive and negative could change the polarity of the magnet
AC really doesn't have a polarity. The HOT lead is swinging from positive to negative in respect to a neutral/0Volt.

Now it could cause issues wit the igniter or cap.
 

Roland

Active Member
Ok, you can run 12/2 with a 240/120v 20amp outlet. This guy was coming off a 40 amp breaker that his dryer was already hooked up on and wanted to use 12/2 and you are saying this is safe? I thought there was certain gauges you had to use for seperate size breakers. Like the 40 amp that he is using, shouldnt he be using 8 gauge? Please enlightn me...
If it is coming from a 40 A circuit ... then it needs to go into a disconnect rated at 40 A .. then you can use 15 or 20 A breaker to feed the lights
 

BigBudBalls

Well-Known Member
this is one of the first times i have seen someone get it right on here :bigjoint:

(and most home outlets ARE 15 amp)
You aren't looking hard.
And yep 15amp is standard in N.A. But more then one outlet is typically asigned to a breaker. So if you have 4 outlets in a room, that doesn't mean you can pull 60 amps in that room.
 
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