I was wondering what would happen if I switched my lighting from 12/12 after 8 weeks of flowering, to 24/0. After a week of 24/0 the buds are still fattening, and the leaves coming out of the buds are starting to turn round, as its going into reveg. I am doing this to see if the plants reveg any faster.
Experimenting 24/0 hours of light after 8 weeks of 12/12...
- Thread starter soljav3
- Start date
silusbotwin
Well-Known Member
Interesting idea to save yourself a couple weeks.
My advice, as long as you are enjoying yourself, try it out. It doesn't sound like a good idea but where would we be if everyone let that stop them from experimenting?
My advice, as long as you are enjoying yourself, try it out. It doesn't sound like a good idea but where would we be if everyone let that stop them from experimenting?
I've noticed bigger calyxes from plants that I have reveg'd... Maybe I am a newb, and judging by your response you have tried this method before? I searched thoroughly to see if anyone else has tried this before, and could not find anyone who has tried it. At some point in time things need to be tried, for better or worse. Also I don't see how a week of light could ruin the buds, but I'll let you know.
Bayou bud
Active Member
Typically I like to clone right before the initial stretch of the plant ends after going through 12/12. But I never wait more than a few days prior to that. And all of my plants have produced great buds. But I'd never pop her back into 24/0 for the whole plant. That will mess with the reproductive hormones and the photoperiod she wants. Also, the nutes will need to be changed up to suit her for more nitrogen and less phosphorus/potassium. You don't give her the same nutes the whole life span, and each nute system is set up for each appropriate stage in her life.
sixstring2112
Well-Known Member
seems like it would just force it to self pollinate and start putting out seeds.i would pull a middle sized nug once a day and tear it apart to check for this,small seeds starting.seems like if you started the process when the plant was still just all cloudy trichs and then went a week the buds would be fine.but im just guessing because i have never done this.cool little experiment,you should get us some pics.gl
Guile
Active Member
Its my understanding that "Florigen" (co-proteins and/or amino acids) are responsible for flowering in a plant.
"FLorigen" is supposedly photo sensitive (degrading in light) only allowing plants to flower when their levels are elevated by shorter day lengths..
It seems to me that some plants must produce elevated levels of "FLorigen" to overcome its photo degradation regardless of light.
Ruderalis for instance can flower under 24/0 light. this implies to me that "FLorigen" can be naturally elevated significantly to trigger flowering despite light degradation (or day light hours).
So it would really seem that its a matter of maintaining a sufficiently elevated level of "FLorigen" relative to your plants particular sensitivity (to it to keep the plant flowering)..
I have found N-acetyl-thiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid (ATCA/NATCA/N-ATCA, CAS No.24877-72-3) being attributed with the flowering/ripening of fruit.
If you are just trying to get it back into veg, it can be done (I would personal harvest your existing buds first).
I've brought back particularly desirable plants for the sake of making them the mother to an entire table during a latter cycle.
Basically all i did was trim off all the buds (and prepare them normally) then put the remainder of the plant under 24/0 light, after a month or 2 the plant will have fully recovered and clones can be taken (without much fear of hermaphrodisum).
"FLorigen" is supposedly photo sensitive (degrading in light) only allowing plants to flower when their levels are elevated by shorter day lengths..
It seems to me that some plants must produce elevated levels of "FLorigen" to overcome its photo degradation regardless of light.
Ruderalis for instance can flower under 24/0 light. this implies to me that "FLorigen" can be naturally elevated significantly to trigger flowering despite light degradation (or day light hours).
So it would really seem that its a matter of maintaining a sufficiently elevated level of "FLorigen" relative to your plants particular sensitivity (to it to keep the plant flowering)..
I have found N-acetyl-thiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid (ATCA/NATCA/N-ATCA, CAS No.24877-72-3) being attributed with the flowering/ripening of fruit.
If you are just trying to get it back into veg, it can be done (I would personal harvest your existing buds first).
I've brought back particularly desirable plants for the sake of making them the mother to an entire table during a latter cycle.
Basically all i did was trim off all the buds (and prepare them normally) then put the remainder of the plant under 24/0 light, after a month or 2 the plant will have fully recovered and clones can be taken (without much fear of hermaphrodisum).
Harvested the bud, a good percentage of the calyxes, and small leaves turned purple for some reason... Also now the stubs that I left are already showing re-veg leaves. I'll post back whether or not the plant herme's... but I'm not too concerned because usually I only see a random pollen sack here or there, and I don't mind having a few seeds around because they are most likely 90% feminized seeds, as I have grown from them before and have gotten ALL females.
stonerman
Well-Known Member
almost everybody on here seems to think Hermies are everywhere, they are actually a very rare occurrence. I know where your coming from with the feminized seeds. Under stress female plants can and will show male parts. Like you said the odd pollen ball here or there, that is very common. Since that pollen was produced from a female plant, its female pollen, and if it pollinates itself or the other surrounding female plants, it will result in a feminized seed. You should Have done some form of smoke report of like some bud harvested before you switched back to 24/0 and then after and compare results.
Guile
Active Member
Is it cold where you are keeping your plant? In my experience purple leaves are just a product of low grow room temperatures..
ProfessorPurp
Member
I can sum it up for you...If it doesn't occur in nature it WILL fuck up your plant. There is a reason ppl switch to 12/12 and leave it like that. It occurs in nature. If you want to try things out tho that is fine. Try this one out. 1 hr on 1 hr off for 24 hrs for 4 weeks. See what happens.
BullwinkleOG
Well-Known Member
According to one of my marijuana cultivation books it is a technique known as secondary budding:
"After five weeks, while the buds are still immature but formed, secondary budding is induced by changing the daylength to 24 hours of permanent light. This forces the plants back into the vegetative growth phase and fresh growing tips sprout from the newly formed buds. The flowers that were already forming will continue to grow, which has the effect of lengthening the area that is producing the bud.
The plant is grown on for a further four weeks before changing the cycle back to 12 hours of uninterrupted darkness to induce flowering once more. The extra time required to flower your secondary bud crop is compensated for by a 25% increase in yield."
"After five weeks, while the buds are still immature but formed, secondary budding is induced by changing the daylength to 24 hours of permanent light. This forces the plants back into the vegetative growth phase and fresh growing tips sprout from the newly formed buds. The flowers that were already forming will continue to grow, which has the effect of lengthening the area that is producing the bud.
The plant is grown on for a further four weeks before changing the cycle back to 12 hours of uninterrupted darkness to induce flowering once more. The extra time required to flower your secondary bud crop is compensated for by a 25% increase in yield."
