Extreme Flowering Under Pair of Timber 48SAMS

maxlev

Well-Known Member
[btw, i don’t think i’ll ever get used to how shitty qbs make plants look on a phone-cam.

If anyone has.a solution, short of turning off the lights, hit me with it.]
They look all right from where I am sitting, not a blurple in sight.
Mate who is too tight fisted (poverty stricken) to splash out on QB`s reckoned he saw god when I showed him how bright they are
 

Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
They look all right from where I am sitting, not a blurple in sight.
Mate who is too tight fisted (poverty stricken) to splash out on QB`s reckoned he saw god when I showed him how bright they are
They are headache bright, and in person i don’t notice that sickly yellow/pale washed out green, but in pics it’s too much for me. I can deal with the “blurples”, just take pic thru led sunglasses and you have a pretty good representation of reality.
 

Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
I prefer an honest look at the plants. Blurples bring purples and HPS oranges out everything. White LED is great for photo accuracy to what's going on. See? A DOG HAIR! I'm amateur at best. bleh.
View attachment 4184833
Great pic, nice trichs, but you gotta turn off/down the qbs and turn on another light. I’d like a simple, effective filter for my phone cam.
 

INF Flux

Well-Known Member
Turn down the exposure in your phones cam if you can. might help. Washed out often means overexposed and the auto settings are likely not designed for it. Sweet setup, will follow :)
 

Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
Turn down the exposure in your phones cam if you can. might help. Washed out often means overexposed and the auto settings are likely not designed for it. Sweet setup, will follow :)
Overexposed for sure, tried some obvious changes on my iphone, but didn’t make it much better. Guess i’ll have to turn off the sun when i want realistic pics.

Thanks, hope to make it worth your while.
 

INF Flux

Well-Known Member
Most meanwell drivers allow you to dim them, maybe just turn it down? I'm starting to look into a real camera. DSLR with all the goofy lenses. Because I need another expensive hobby.
 

Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
Most meanwell drivers allow you to dim them, maybe just turn it down? I'm starting to look into a real camera. DSLR with all the goofy lenses. Because I need another expensive hobby.
Oh yeah, 48sams have separate dimmer, don’t need to stick a screwdriver in a hole while trying not to break a cola tip. One of Timber's unique value adds.

I don’t like dimming just to take a pic, i then have to break out my ppfd meter and reset the intensity.

I like simple, not up to learning cameras/photography to show what my plants look like.
 

Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
I'm surprised nobody has made a grow light specific camera app
Market opportunity flashing...or...i’d pay $50-100 for a pair of sunglasses that normalized a qb light for pics. Love my method 7s under regular led.

Maybe they’re working on it.
 

Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
Plants seem to be ok, so far.

E5B80693-D7AF-423C-ADAE-ED7CEA2E18C6.jpeg

As usual with new setup in my grow room, i’m working to dial in temp/humidity. I like humidity to be ~50%, and for this extreme grow, i’d like lightson temp to be upper 70’s-low 80’s. Currently trying to get temps up to range and rh down to range, while keeping external light out of tent and not wasting too much co2.

Everything else working fine, sure helps to have some good controllers.
 

Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
Locking in lightson temp & humidity: exhaust fan variable controller set to full power when fan triggered; rh set to 55%, 5 point deadband; temp set at 85F, 2F deadband.

Exhaust cycle currently being triggered on rh. When rh hits 60% temp is at 83; fan then drives rh down and shuts off at 50%, at that point temp is 78; CO2 (lightson only) is then triggered to maintain current 1000 parts. When rh hits 60%, cycle repeats. Currently ~4-minute cycles: 35 seconds on, 3mins+30seconds off.

Tomorrow i’ll change out nutesoup to flowering mix, raise ppfd to 1350 (full target, running 13.5/10.5), raise co2 to 1500 parts (full target).

Each day: topping up w hydroguarded water (pH 6.1); turning plants 180, and resetting tiedowns to keep tops as flat as possible.

Seeing first pistils, strong bottom laterals rising to top of canopy, back plants (tallest) at 14-15”.

7E5097FF-F8AF-4B35-99AA-386CC825998F.jpeg
 
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Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Subbed!
Finally...! I was already curious when you planned it. Now I am even impressed! Looks and sounds like a delicious setup and I'm curious how the girls develop with so much light. Certainly they will become impressive..


BTW,
you could make markings for different intensities around the dimmer poti. So you can dim it and turn it back later without having to measure again. You could make a few points with a felt-tip pen too or you change the knob against a dimmer knob with scale.
I've used this ones below for my latest builds but because the most potentiometers have only a 300° rotation range the poti's adjustment range goes only from 15 to 100 but in reality the lowest setting of a HLG driver is 6,5-10%.
But anyway, I've attached them so that they show 100% when they are fully ramped up. Dimming I do only for inspection purposes or if I want to compensate for height differences but to have a scale makes it much easier.
First half of the driver case, with user terminal.png
Here's a 10pack alu-knobs with scale for 5 bucks and they are also available in different sizes.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/10Pc-Knob-Scale-Potentiometer-Metal-With-Dial-for-6mm-Shaft-Rotary-Cap-0-9-Scale/152879937407?hash=item23985ab77f:g:BMcAAOSw~kJaaUxm
 

Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
Subbed!
Finally...! I was already curious when you planned it. Now I am even impressed! Looks and sounds like a delicious setup and I'm curious how the girls develop with so much light. Certainly they will become impressive..


BTW,
you could make markings for different intensities around the dimmer poti. So you can dim it and turn it back later without having to measure again. You could make a few points with a felt-tip pen too or you change the knob against a dimmer knob with scale.
I've used this ones below for my latest builds but because the most potentiometers have only a 300° rotation range the poti's adjustment range goes only from 15 to 100 but in reality the lowest setting of a HLG driver is 6,5-10%.
But anyway, I've attached them so that they show 100% when they are fully ramped up. Dimming I do only for inspection purposes or if I want to compensate for height differences but to have a scale makes it much easier.
View attachment 4186043
Here's a 10pack alu-knobs with scale for 5 bucks and they are also available in different sizes.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/10Pc-Knob-Scale-Potentiometer-Metal-With-Dial-for-6mm-Shaft-Rotary-Cap-0-9-Scale/152879937407?hash=item23985ab77f:g:BMcAAOSw~kJaaUxm
Sweet! That’s one professional looking tool there. Please describe what the heck it is.

Thanks, ordered the knobs, having the markings is a real value add, and beats the hell out of trying to mark the dimmer’s black face with my big, clumsy hands and my daughter’s nail polish.
 
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Randomblame

Well-Known Member
It's a part of my driver housings..Would the lids be only an inch higher and wider.png Strips, COB's + UVB.jpg
For more info see the 400w light in my signature.

Yeah, small improvements can make things a lot easier. In my first light I've used a 5 pole rotary switch with added resistors from 20 to 110k to get 5 brightness settings but potis are so much easier to work with.
 
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