Extreme yellowing mid/late flower...?

shiva71

Well-Known Member
Hi!
This is a Mephisto Super Orange Haze auto, DWC, EC 2.0 pH 6.2 SF2000 light...made a right fkin mess of this grow so they're not so great looking :/
You expect some yellowing towards harvesting but this is really noticeable, is this just the plant doing its things and sending all its energy into buds (yummy) or do i have some kinda deficiency?
Thanks!!
 

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Right thats possible i pretty much cut out N during flower partly cos i nearly always run into trouble with N toxicity.
Nitrogen is still needed throughout flower. Don't cut it out completely.

If yellowing is going to occur, it should be during the maturing of the bud stage, not the growing of the bud stage. You want leaves to be green, so that they can keep up with the high demand of the flowers.
 
With autos especially N is needed for longer in the grow imho
I run the same formula from seed to harvest (Jacks 321) with good results. I have their bloom formula and have just never used it.
Depending on your nutrient line maybe extend the recommendations for early flower out a few more weeks in the future.
 
With autos especially N is needed for longer in the grow imho
I run the same formula from seed to harvest (Jacks 321) with good results. I have their bloom formula and have just never used it.
Depending on your nutrient line maybe extend the recommendations for early flower out a few more weeks in the future.
Yeah thanks, i just seem to hit problems with N tox every fookin grow! This is one of my girls, deffo N claw so i then back off with the N...
This is by far my worst grow, i screwed up at the start and theyve never really recovered...
 

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the lowers are the older leaves. Pull off the most damaged …. Plant is concentrating on those upper flowers ( that is where the better looking part of plant is. )

Also you might be having some light stress on those tops - see the flat top of flowers ? That is a sign of light stress when flowers have a flattened top to bud.

Plant will not miss those necrotic leaves if you prune them off.
 
Yeah thanks, i just seem to hit problems with N tox every fookin grow! This is one of my girls, deffo N claw so i then back off with the N...
This is by far my worst grow, i screwed up at the start and theyve never really recovered...

You know you can induce N tox simply by messing with the environment?

Heat, humidity, light intensity and wind will influence feeding requirements. You will need to feed less due to increased transpiration from all of the above factors.

The best thing you can do is keep the room stable. Whatever the conditions (within reason) and this won’t cause the plants demands to shift so much.

Less is more.

It’s easy to feed a hungry plant but time consuming to correct an overfed one
 
Yeah thanks, i just seem to hit problems with N tox every fookin grow! This is one of my girls, deffo N claw so i then back off with the N...
This is by far my worst grow, i screwed up at the start and theyve never really recovered...
When i grow autos ill go half grow half bloom during weeks 5 to seven and that usualy gets them through ok these 2 lemon ak autos didn't get quite enough and as you can see at 14 weeks they had a pretty dramatic fade/ nitrogen deficiency but the end product was brilliant. Don't give up on your grow i'm sure you can nurse that plant to the finish cut out ya N, clean it up and get her to the chop.
 

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What nutrients are you using?
how much and how often?
I was sorta cycling Canna Flores, CalMag and Super PK (both Aptus) but since its looking like a N deficiency i did a rez change yesterday and added some Aptus all-in-one stuff which has an NPK of 6-12-6. So shes been on that since yesterday lets see if the additional N makes a difference...
 
I was sorta cycling Canna Flores, CalMag and Super PK (both Aptus) but since its looking like a N deficiency i did a rez change yesterday and added some Aptus all-in-one stuff which has an NPK of 6-12-6. So shes been on that since yesterday lets see if the additional N makes a difference...
Your ratios are getting out of wack....the plant shows signs of N tox at some point and then swings to the other extreme. I suggest going with 1 nutrient program and sticking with it. Like the all in one you just used...except use it from start to finish. The mixing and supplementing gets tricky quick. Make sure your calmag doesn't have a bunch of N in it also.
I just noticed your ph is on the high side too......5.5 to 5.8 for dwc. This could be the issue if it's been high the whole grow.
 
Hi!
This is a Mephisto Super Orange Haze auto, DWC, EC 2.0 pH 6.2 SF2000 light...made a right fkin mess of this grow so they're not so great looking :/
You expect some yellowing towards harvesting but this is really noticeable, is this just the plant doing its things and sending all its energy into buds (yummy) or do i have some kinda deficiency?
Thanks!!
Hey! That yellowing near harvest is mostly normal as the plant shifts energy to bud production, but if it's extreme or patchy, you might also be seeing a nitrogen or magnesium deficiency creeping in.
 
While I use Promix BX, and water by hand,. When I use chemicals, I use Master Blend 4-18-38-15.55-0-0 Calcium Nitrate- Epsom Salts. I start off right of the bat, with Seedlings at about 10% of recommended full dose, and slowly, over the weeks, increase the amount I am giving them.

In Veg, I usually never go over 25%-30% of recommended feeding, unless they show signs of deficiency. Nothing is foolproof, and one should keep constant watch, and see how the plant(s) react to the feed/waterings. In a perfect situation, you should see some sort of growth, or reaction to feeding/watering, every time they are fed/watered. I feed, at every watering.
In flowering, I will increase dose of the Base Nutrients until about 40%-50% of recommended feeding, and in weeks 4-6, in an 8 weeks flowering strain, I will increase Epsom Salts by another 10% of Recommended dose. So Epsom Salts goes as high as 60% of recommended max dose, in weeks 4-6, and it is slowly increased to this number, by only several percentages per week, until week 6, the last week, it is getting the full 60%.
Then weeks 7-8, nutrients are cut by 25% in week 7, and another 25%, in week 8.
I do not use any different Flowering/Veg NPK ratio changes. Only increase PPM, of ALL Nutrients, until week 6, in an 8 Weeks Flowering strain. Make adjustments if Longer/Shorter.

It is true, too much Nitrogen, is not a good thing, and can cause delayed flowering, more leaf ect. Its all about ratio.

It makes ZERO sense, to cut out Nitrogen, when the plant, is going to grow, the most it ever has, produce more chemicals, and hormones than it ever has. You cannot ask a plant to do this, whilst cutting out Nitrogen. Nitrogen is responsible for every metabolic process, including cell division/mitosis. While Nitrogen, is not a Protein, it is a key component, of Protein. Nitrogen, is essential, for building the stricture, of Proteins, and is crucial for many metabolic functions of life.
Would you think a Bodybuilder, or any athlete trying to achieve maximum physical development, and stamina, would cut out Protein, in the most critical part of their training stage? When humans eat Protein, our bodies turn it into Nitrogen. Athletes try and maintain an Anabolic State, which means to Build Up. They try and maintain a Positive Nitrogen Balance. Anabolic State- The anthesis of trying to build muscle, is being Catabolic, which is what is happening, when plant leaves start turning yellow, from the bottom up. The plant, is cannibalizing itself, by using the leaves, as Nitrogen source.
Protein, is Greek for. Of First Importance. Of all the Macro Nutrients, Protein, is the most important, as was stated. It is responsible for every metabolic process. Nitrogen, is essential for building the structure, of proteins. Dont cut it out in flowering. Just correct the ratio.

For Long Flowering Sativas,- 12+ weeks. I would cut the 15.5-0-0 back by 50%, after 4 weeks of flowering, and in many varieties, dont require as many PPM, as modern hybrids. I always try and use the least amount of fertilizer, to keep them growing as fast as possible. I never try and force feed them.

After all that, and while I have mainly used chemicals. I find the Gaia Green 4-4-4, and the 2-8-4, so simple to use, it basically takes all the guess work out of trying to figure all the other stuff out.
Only thing to worry about is Water/Medium- PH.

Start out with 4-4-4 only. 2-3 TBLSP per Gallon Medium. 3 TBLSP is full dose. I use 3 TBLSP.

I also use AZOMITE-1 TBLSP per Gallon Medium.
After a month either replenish with more 4-4-4, or use half the amount of 4-4-4, and add the other half as 2-8-4, for flowering. Also add 1 TSP AZOMITE Per Gallon Soil.
If flowering, best to wait 1 week after combining 4-4-4 x 2-8-4, before cutting lights back. Then 3 WEEKS later, add more 4-4-4 x 2-8-4. If flowering longer than 70 days, use only 2-8-4 and 3 TBLSP gallon soil. No more 4-4-4. Use Azomite every 30 days. 1 TSP Gallon Soil.
 
I've messed up enough grows to know that N-Tox is pretty damaging to plants. Once the leaves get the claw they are FFL (Fucked for Life).
They will never recover to a healthy condition and will turn brown/yellow early even if nutrient situation is remedied.
 
While I use Promix BX, and water by hand,. When I use chemicals, I use Master Blend 4-18-38-15.55-0-0 Calcium Nitrate- Epsom Salts. I start off right of the bat, with Seedlings at about 10% of recommended full dose, and slowly, over the weeks, increase the amount I am giving them.

In Veg, I usually never go over 25%-30% of recommended feeding, unless they show signs of deficiency. Nothing is foolproof, and one should keep constant watch, and see how the plant(s) react to the feed/waterings. In a perfect situation, you should see some sort of growth, or reaction to feeding/watering, every time they are fed/watered. I feed, at every watering.
In flowering, I will increase dose of the Base Nutrients until about 40%-50% of recommended feeding, and in weeks 4-6, in an 8 weeks flowering strain, I will increase Epsom Salts by another 10% of Recommended dose. So Epsom Salts goes as high as 60% of recommended max dose, in weeks 4-6, and it is slowly increased to this number, by only several percentages per week, until week 6, the last week, it is getting the full 60%.
Then weeks 7-8, nutrients are cut by 25% in week 7, and another 25%, in week 8.
I do not use any different Flowering/Veg NPK ratio changes. Only increase PPM, of ALL Nutrients, until week 6, in an 8 Weeks Flowering strain. Make adjustments if Longer/Shorter.

It is true, too much Nitrogen, is not a good thing, and can cause delayed flowering, more leaf ect. Its all about ratio.

It makes ZERO sense, to cut out Nitrogen, when the plant, is going to grow, the most it ever has, produce more chemicals, and hormones than it ever has. You cannot ask a plant to do this, whilst cutting out Nitrogen. Nitrogen is responsible for every metabolic process, including cell division/mitosis. While Nitrogen, is not a Protein, it is a key component, of Protein. Nitrogen, is essential, for building the stricture, of Proteins, and is crucial for many metabolic functions of life.
Would you think a Bodybuilder, or any athlete trying to achieve maximum physical development, and stamina, would cut out Protein, in the most critical part of their training stage? When humans eat Protein, our bodies turn it into Nitrogen. Athletes try and maintain an Anabolic State, which means to Build Up. They try and maintain a Positive Nitrogen Balance. Anabolic State- The anthesis of trying to build muscle, is being Catabolic, which is what is happening, when plant leaves start turning yellow, from the bottom up. The plant, is cannibalizing itself, by using the leaves, as Nitrogen source.
Protein, is Greek for. Of First Importance. Of all the Macro Nutrients, Protein, is the most important, as was stated. It is responsible for every metabolic process. Nitrogen, is essential for building the structure, of proteins. Dont cut it out in flowering. Just correct the ratio.

For Long Flowering Sativas,- 12+ weeks. I would cut the 15.5-0-0 back by 50%, after 4 weeks of flowering, and in many varieties, dont require as many PPM, as modern hybrids. I always try and use the least amount of fertilizer, to keep them growing as fast as possible. I never try and force feed them.

After all that, and while I have mainly used chemicals. I find the Gaia Green 4-4-4, and the 2-8-4, so simple to use, it basically takes all the guess work out of trying to figure all the other stuff out.
Only thing to worry about is Water/Medium- PH.

Start out with 4-4-4 only. 2-3 TBLSP per Gallon Medium. 3 TBLSP is full dose. I use 3 TBLSP.

I also use AZOMITE-1 TBLSP per Gallon Medium.
After a month either replenish with more 4-4-4, or use half the amount of 4-4-4, and add the other half as 2-8-4, for flowering. Also add 1 TSP AZOMITE Per Gallon Soil.
If flowering, best to wait 1 week after combining 4-4-4 x 2-8-4, before cutting lights back. Then 3 WEEKS later, add more 4-4-4 x 2-8-4. If flowering longer than 70 days, use only 2-8-4 and 3 TBLSP gallon soil. No more 4-4-4. Use Azomite every 30 days. 1 TSP Gallon Soil.
It makes ZERO sense, to cut out Nitrogen - thanks yeah but i always have N claw even with tiny amounts of N
 
I've messed up enough grows to know that N-Tox is pretty damaging to plants. Once the leaves get the claw they are FFL (Fucked for Life).
They will never recover to a healthy condition and will turn brown/yellow early even if nutrient situation is remedied.
Good to know ta. I seem to get it every damn time, look this is definitely N tox from earlier on...
 

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