Fan Blowing On Buds??

Medi 1

Well-Known Member
dont worry about the conversion. does it on its own. i see it says ppm. so pen needs to be set to ppm. then ocne its cal`d then can be used in ec
so when you stick the pen in the cal stuff it needs to read 1382...or within a couple points. and the solution should be as close to 77 to be accurate.
 

Medi 1

Well-Known Member
70 too low!?! bullshit! below 45degrees is just starting to get too low-unless you are in hydro, as long a roots and water stay around 60s-70s...you are recreating fall for them-if its an indica, it loves it between 45-60 (night-day), sativas are a little warmer, but i still keep mine at 55-70 at the highest (day-night) Thats where all the lovely colors come from...

*As far as the fans blowing directly on them, when they are clones and veg i have the fans on high directly at them, they tip some like trees in a strong breeze (some distance is important to not break lil guys), this will make their stems much stronger and thicker so when you put them to flower the heavy nugs wont snap the branches.

During flower, the 1 above my canopy is on high, but not touching the plants, the one at base of plant is oscillating at high directly on the base stems. this gives me tree trunk bases and very strong plants, and the airflow is great because they are on high.

I love how people post that you shouldnt do something-but have never tried it...after everything, i tried growing in FL(hot n humid), now growing in CO- the cold and lower humidity make my plants soooooo much better. ill post some pics soon, just harvest time for the outdoor, and i have some indoor crops finishing too...



what???..,.45 degrees nobody griows that low. they shut down below 60. completely shut down. and stomata close up at below 70 ish...and at high temps. you go from water temps to room temps...what subject you on here. were talking about the room not water here.
wow...bad advice dood. who told you to grow under 70 degree?????
 

Kphlash

Member
what???..,.45 degrees nobody griows that low. they shut down below 60. completely shut down. and stomata close up at below 70 ish...and at high temps. you go from water temps to room temps...what subject you on here. were talking about the room not water here.
wow...bad advice dood. who told you to grow under 70 degree?????
I only mentioned water temps in case it was hydro and i missed it=didnt want him to freeze the roots. as far as room temps, above 85 they stop growing too...45 is my absolute low temp because it will keep the roots from being too cold...

I know that they do this well for 2 reasons... OUTDOORS IN FALL- when plants are flowering, usually live in an area where it is 60s-70s during the day and 40-50 at night. cept the islands, but their bud is nothing compared to amsterdam who do a ton of outdoor that looks better than some indoor here...

Now 2nd reason- I work in the MMJ business, everyone i know grows on a seriously large scale, most have worked in amsterdam or atleast went and took some classes. The rest have done the oaksterdam course. aside from that we all have grown thousands of pounds over the last few years- using these temperatures and the colors are amazing, the trichomes stand out more, and the buds are bigger and better.

Plants will continue to grow as long as the roots dont freeze, if it is too low in the soil temp it will sacrifice some yield, but if you have a large (7-10gal)pot and it is not on the ground, you are fine.

To clarify, i slowly start dropping the temps in the room to recreate nature. They cant take that when they are just starting as it will shock them with such small roots and a sudden change in temp... but if you gradually drop it 5 degrees or so from the start, by the time you are 4 weeks in- it needs to be a warm fridge in there...

Id gladly take a pic of everything, when i have time. just to prove that, dont bash something till you have tried it...

When my door is closed I would say it deff would create a vaccum and bad. My outlet is about 443 cfm and intake is about 120 cfm. Would that be why my coal filter isnt taking the smell out of the room?
Profilter carbon filter- put it at the end of the exhaust instead of the beginning, it will maximize filtration. these are the only reversible filters, but they are amazing and last for a long time...
 

thomas12404

Active Member
dont worry about the conversion. does it on its own. i see it says ppm. so pen needs to be set to ppm. then ocne its cal`d then can be used in ec
so when you stick the pen in the cal stuff it needs to read 1382...or within a couple points. and the solution should be as close to 77 to be accurate.
I just compared the fox farm EC range they gave and they are using a truncheon meter, it matches perfect. The first reading is EC .1 or 70 PPM. This would be using the .7 setting, right? If so do I calib in .7 PPM mode?
 

tatamama

New Member
I think I have a vacuum. When I close the door and stand inside then reopen it it sucks air up real fast. Can't seem to get a big enough passive intake when they have to be covered with panty hose.. Stops so much air flow but have to keep out the white flies and mites.. Had 25 plants got 30 oz's so how bad did the vacuum hurt my yield???


Ya, I know.

When using ventilation be sure that you don't create a vaccum in the op.
 

thomas12404

Active Member
dont worry about the conversion. does it on its own. i see it says ppm. so pen needs to be set to ppm. then ocne its cal`d then can be used in ec
so when you stick the pen in the cal stuff it needs to read 1382...or within a couple points. and the solution should be as close to 77 to be accurate.
I have been playing with the pen and figured out how to use it and the settings. I have been trying to figure it out but couldn't, and after thinking about it, but not as hard as I was it came to me, LOL. Thanks a mill Medi 1!
 

Medi 1

Well-Known Member
im glad cause all that info lost mke...lol.

and to the other dood with the temps all over, when we test our final product anhd have bad temps and huge swings as you say is good we test at low thc and other cannabinoid profiles so science tells are your commercial croppers that its not ok to have those numbers. and the scale and location of the people dont mean shit. getting those colours means the chloraphyl has stopped and is also a weeker weed. your getting lots of trichomes cause that is a deffence against stress and dont nake more potent bud. they still need to be filled with cannabinoids. they are bag apeal unless there is enough time left in the grow to make them full. but being stressed they usualy strugle doing that
 

Kphlash

Member
im glad cause all that info lost mke...lol.

and to the other dood with the temps all over, when we test our final product anhd have bad temps and huge swings as you say is good we test at low thc and other cannabinoid profiles so science tells are your commercial croppers that its not ok to have those numbers. and the scale and location of the people dont mean shit. getting those colours means the chloraphyl has stopped and is also a weeker weed. your getting lots of trichomes cause that is a deffence against stress and dont nake more potent bud. they still need to be filled with cannabinoids. they are bag apeal unless there is enough time left in the grow to make them full. but being stressed they usualy strugle doing that
I didnt say to have huge swings, i have less than a 10 degree difference in my nights and days, 15 is ok but heavy swings are bad, plants like consistency-and they will stop budding until temps are more to their liking. But for flowering-they like it colder-its fall in nature-its colder than 70 all the time.

As to the scale, knowledge and location of myself and friends, Amsterdam has always been the leader in MMJ. Just like learning karate from bruce lee(or whoever the best is), learning how to grow from a dutchmaster grower- is probably the best education you can have, but any education from a professional is better than being self taught. We talk daily about different techniques and possibilities, and have several test tents devoted to different factors during each cycle. We constantly are refuting old "scientific evidence" which is mostly old school myths and misinformation-just like the water god being responsible for droughts lol...

I am a commercial cropper-and i know what is important to a plant, and to my patients. I yield over a qp on each plant, usually about a 1/2lb average at this temp. They all have remarkable colors and High THC -(19-27% average tested). and the colors are not because the chlorophyll has stopped, and it does not produce a weaker weed(thats like saying all purps arent as strong as green bud). It is because of harsher enviroment to the leaves, and the plants reaction to that is to cover it in more trichomes (the 1 thing you are right about) hence producing more THC. The colors are for bag appeal, as colors mean nothing about potency, and more trichomes.

To say more trichomes does not make for a more potent bud is just a sad and stupid statement. They are always filled with cannabinoids, thats like saying you dont have DNA in your fingernails if they grow too fast or long...

I was simply stating temp ranges. I try to keep mine at 55 at night and 65 at day time. this varies a few degrees, but i after growing over 70, and then as 70 as my max during flower, i have grown, larger, more covered buds.

my plants never get stressed, and never have any problem, as long as the root system stays warm, the plant thrives in that weather

So basically, spend some time working on different possibilities, instead of bashing ideas you have obviously not tried, and then come talk science with me- a BS in organic chem, or microbiology would be nice, but ill take a HS diploma- since u cant spell chlorophyll or appeal, defense, or struggle- right...not to mention your loosely based knowledge on them and how they work-in a sentence and in science...

I used to skim these forums for ideas, tips, and different opinions, i started posting recently because of how wrong or uninformed so many posts are-trying to correct the unfounded and misinformed-and help growers.
 

Medi 1

Well-Known Member
still some of the funnjiest shit ive read., in my opoinion form smoking buds form amsterdasm they suked. and 27% is bullshit. show us the results then. not opinionh. the test result shiowing those rediculous numbers.
commercial cropper and quality dont go in the same sentence either.
1/4 to half pound a plant...what under a 400 watt, asnd how long veg,.

so if the purp colour isnt chlorophyl what makes it purp then...you seen to say youve tested this or know...prove it worng then by science not opinion again. isnt green the chlorophyl and no green means what????? and without that it is a weekerr bud cause the growth process and food process stops or slows so how can it not be weeker. was on all out efficacy reports.


heres some sciene for the bad room conditons and how it effects the stomata.....

Stomatal apertures of isolated and suitably conditioned epidermal strips of Polypodium vulgare are described as the stomata respond to the influences of temperature, air humidity, and water potential at the epidermal inner walls. Water stress as a result of reduced water potential in the substomatal airspace leads to narrower stomatal pores when water potential falls below -8 bar. Water potentials above this threshold value show minor influence. Stomatal responses to such water stress strongly interact with the responses to humidity changes in ambient air and to temperature. The linear dependence of stomatal apertures on the vapor saturation deficit of the air (closing) is shifted to lower values (more closed) by lower leaf bulk water potentials. Stomatal behavior depending on the temperature factor seems to be reversed by higher water stress. Without water stress, rising temperatures between 20 and 28° C are accompanied by further opening of the pores, whereas an increase of temperature within this range leads to narrowing of the stomata under the influence of lower water potentials within the substomatal airspace. It can be demonstrated that stomatal aperture values of Polypodium vulgare depending on temperature always describe optimum curves. With no water stress, closing does not occur before rather high temperatures are reached and above a broad range of maximal opening. Water stress, on the other hand, results in more pronounced narrowing of stomatal pores and shifts the onset to considerably lower temperatures.

\source springer link


herers where we test at. we do work with Dr honrby on our testing. like i said your temps are way to low and 15 degree swing is big. go ahead bash the typo`s, big deal. i could say the same here n there. jee sory my spell check isnt working....
 

canefan

Well-Known Member
Medi 1, I understand that you are knowledgeable but to say that a plant stops growing or flowering below 60 degrees is just wrong!!!!! I grow mainly outside with 6 hours of additional lights indoors this time of year so that I can sustain the veg state until I am ready to put them into flower. My outdoors temps are never more than 75, hell 78 is the all time high here. The nighttime temp is in the low 50's every night and this time of year the highs are usually only in the very low 60's, my plants grow just fine. I grant you that I have to take some special efforts as I am growing at 6500 ft above sea level, average over 90 percent humidity 24 hours per day.
Now to say that my veg plants are only growing because I am using lights at night and keep the temps up to around 70 in the growroom, sounds silly to say the least. To say that my flowering plants which never see the presence of artificial light and spend most of their days in temps under 60 they might get 3 to 4 hours a day now with temps over 60, riddle me how they grow? I will grant you that my plants here grow more slowly than they did in Florida, but there are too many variables for me to pinpoint where, elevation?, temps, CO2 levels, oxygen levels, more intense sun (when we have it).
I understand there is a difference between growing in soil and hydro or any other method and also between inside and outside but please, get a grip, plants have been growing under 60 degrees for thousands of years, do their nute uptake change with lower temps you bet they do, but they still grow and thrive with the right care.
I would also like to address color as a weakness in the plant, really? Please send me a link explaining this, or where I can go dig up this info that you base this opinion on. I really would like to study this, does this mean that all plants in the plant kingdom which are not green suffers from weakness? I think not but I am anxious to learn.
 

thomas12404

Active Member
Ok, from everything that I have read about growing it seems you get nice looking/potent plants, but inside they are way more potent. That sounds to me that when you control the environment to a tee the plants grow to the full potential. Iv'e also read that the more time a plant spends in a certain environment (indoor/outdoor) the more a plant can adjust to it. So if it's outside most of its life, it can handle the changes. Just because it grows in low temps doesn't mean it's going to be dank dank dank! I have seen my buddies grow indoors, and others outside, the indoor grows are always better tasting and greater high. Just saying :
 

Medi 1

Well-Known Member
i dont think i ever said they completly stop grpowing. but more slow the whole life process.

thomas has it.
 
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