Fan leaves are browning up

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unbound_prometheus

Member
This is my first time growing and all has been looking good but I have plant that is starting to get brown spots on upper fan leaves and they are starting to brown and curl up even more. This is the only ant doing this I. The tent. I found one brown spot on one leaf on a other plant but that's it.i am running two plants on a dwc 5 gallon bucket system with recirculating water with a reservoir and top drip. The plant is in week 5 of flower but was vegged for a long time so the plant is big. I've been pretty.much using the fox farm nutrient trio to date and just did a flush and ran plain to water for a day. I also add calmag and hydroguard as well. I am including a few pics as well. Any thoughts or suggestions are appreciated
 

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Truthsurge

Truthsurge

Member
Calcium or phosphorus def, if your ph is in check and your not overfeeding in general (if they can take it) a little bit of calcium or calmag, and a little bit of pk.
 
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spek9

Well-Known Member
unbound_prometheus said:
I keep it around 5.5 to 6. The water temp is usually around 69 degrees. The tent is usually around 75 with 45% humidity.
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Ok. Your pH should be good for both Calcium and Phosphorus uptake, so it may mean you're underfeeding P(hosphorus) at this stage of flowering. I'm now thinking that this is a P def as opposed to a Ca one.

What's your PPM, and how much of each bottle of nutrients are you adding in, relative to the manufacturer's recommendation?
 
Truthsurge

Truthsurge

Member
spek9 said:
Ok. Your pH should be good for both Calcium and Phosphorus uptake, so it may mean you're underfeeding P(hosphorus) at this stage of flowering. I'm now thinking that this is a P def as opposed to a Ca one.

What's your PPM, and how much of each bottle of nutrients are you adding in, relative to the manufacturer's recommendation?
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You can tell by the big blotches, with calcium it is more like rust
 
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unbound_prometheus

Member
spek9 said:
Ok. Your pH should be good for both Calcium and Phosphorus uptake, so it may mean you're underfeeding P(hosphorus) at this stage of flowering. I'm now thinking that this is a P def as opposed to a Ca one.

What's your PPM, and how much of each bottle of nutrients are you adding in, relative to the manufacturer's recommendation?
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I started off using about 50% of the recommended amounts and have gradually been upping that to 75 to 100 percent of the recommended amounts. The ppms of the new water in the reservoir is at 690. That's about as high as I have run them to date.
 
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spek9

Well-Known Member
unbound_prometheus said:
I started off using about 50% of the recommended amounts and have gradually been upping that to 75 to 100 percent of the recommended amounts. The ppms of the new water in the reservoir is at 690. That's about as high as I have run them to date.
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Try upping slightly the amount of the bloom nutrients, and leave the others at the same level you have been. Stay consistent for a few feeds, and watch closely to see if the problem gets any worse. The dying leaves will not recover, so that's not a viable way to tell if things are improving or not. It'll either get worse, or stop getting worse.

When I see signs like this, I usually take a top-down photo of the plant, and then an up close of the affected leaves. After I make a change (always only one at a time!), I start comparing my pictures to the plants directly to see how things are affected. I don't remove the affected leaves until after the problem has been corrected. The idea here is to watch if the problem spreads on the already affected leaves, and leaves that were previously OK.
 
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unbound_prometheus

Member
I
spek9 said:
Try upping slightly the amount of the bloom nutrients, and leave the others at the same level you have been. Stay consistent for a few feeds, and watch closely to see if the problem gets any worse. The dying leaves will not recover, so that's not a viable way to tell if things are improving or not. It'll either get worse, or stop getting worse.

When I see signs like this, I usually take a top-down photo of the plant, and then an up close of the affected leaves. After I make a change (always only one at a time!), I start comparing my pictures to the plants directly to see how things are affected. I don't remove the affected leaves until after the problem has been corrected. The idea here is to watch if the problem spreads on the already affected leaves, and leaves that were previously OK.
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I see a product called ca ching from fox farms that looks like it should up the phosphorus. It looks like that is now part of the recommended items on the feeding chart. I have been using only the 3 base nutrients to date.
 
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unbound_prometheus

Member
unbound_prometheus said:
I


I see a product called ca ching from fox farms that looks like it should up the phosphorus. It looks like that is now part of the recommended items on the feeding chart. I have been using only the 3 base nutrients to date.
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And good I'm glad you mentioned about removing the affected leaves. I was gonna just take them all out and see if new ones showed up.
 
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spek9

Well-Known Member
unbound_prometheus said:
I


I see a product called ca ching from fox farms that looks like it should up the phosphorus. It looks like that is now part of the recommended items on the feeding chart. I have been using only the 3 base nutrients to date.
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All I've ever used in all of my grows is the base nutrients, and sometimes Calmag. You don't need magic snake oil just because the manufacturer recommends it. They want people like you thinking you need all of that unnecessary expensive stuff.

The bloom portion of the nutrients has both P and K, so upping that slightly will have the exact same result as if you bought a bottle of "Ca Ching". Even the name alone of whatever that stuff is rings the loud bells of "Profit!".
 
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unbound_prometheus

Member
spek9 said:
All I've ever used in all of my grows is the base nutrients, and sometimes Calmag. You don't need magic snake oil just because the manufacturer recommends it. They want people like you thinking you need all of that unnecessary expensive stuff.

The bloom portion of the nutrients has both P and K, so upping that slightly will have the exact same result as if you bought a bottle of "Ca Ching".
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Ok cool. They have like 12 different products but to date ive been just using the base 3.
 
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spek9

Well-Known Member
unbound_prometheus said:
Ok cool. They have like 12 different products but to date ive been just using the base 3.
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Which is literally all you need (again, Calmag may be a necessity depending on medium and water source).

The extra bottles are the exact same nutrients, just in different amounts that make it look important. They make you think you need it, and charge high prices for the privilege of using it. Nutrient companies aren't out for your plant's best interest. They're out for your money.
 
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unbound_prometheus

Member
spek9 said:
Which is literally all you need (again, Calmag may be a necessity depending on medium and water source).

The extra bottles are the exact same nutrients, just in different amounts that make it look important. They make you think you need it, and charge high prices for the privilege of using it. Nutrient companies aren't out for your plant's best interest. They're out for your money.
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How much longer do you think this plant has before harvest time?
 
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