some explanation on my setup...hydro obviously and i run 1x4 trays because then the roots can still expand laterally (advantage over pots) but are still able to be rotated to fix any trays that get ahead, as well as pull out singles for trimming and such (advantage over 4x4 and 4x8 ) i also use hydrocorn (NOT hydroton) because i'm not a fan of water retaining mediums, i find that even in the same room with similar sized plants options that retain water never quite match up so you end up with a few too much, a few too little and most in the sweet spot. in rocks, when the water is gone, its pretty much gone, minus any that pools in the pits of the surface. this of course leaves little room for error and if you have a problem with watering they can die quicker, but honestly once they are established (6"-8")they can go 24-36 light hours without water and usually be ok.
my rooms are also set up that any feeding/water-in tubing is white, and any drainage/water-out is black. this just keeps me from doing anything stupid mostly, and with the stop valves i can easily drain my res out to the sink (black tube in mid right hand side) as well as pump in clean water with the lights off, so when the lights come on i just have to mix up my nutes. i keep all controls and such outside the room i can, the room is just plants, lights and my meters.
at this stage i'm using heavy16 veg nutes. the ratios is: .1 water + .2 calmag + 1.3 parts a and b. i also use hygrozyme/cannazyme but don't see this influence the EC much if at all. i aim for 5.6-6.2 in veg (i let it drift then knock it down) and more like 5.8-6.4 in flower. this is a little higher/lower than some say but i like to let it drift to get a range of nutrient uptake levels. i will be switching to flower nutrients soon as i plant to flip them in a week or so, i'm not really aiming for anything just hoping this strain is good for sog. i'm using 1k lights on 50% so 2 x 500w for now, we'll see if i need to turn it up but with sog plants being small and compact i think it will be fine. (On an interesting side note, my 1k lumateks running at 50% register higher on my light meter than a 600 at 100%. on my tables, a 600 ranges from 9-15 on my meter, while a 1k on 50% registers 15-22 in the same places...all similar aged bulbs from ushio) i spray serenade and azamax on a rotating 10ish day cycle for powdery mildew and bug control.
the toys i use .... at this stage i use a light meter and found the internodal length i like comes at about 15-20 foot candles on the highest setting, which has some weird multiplier, i'll post the meter if i can find an online pic, its kind of a pos, but it allows me to compare things and get my tables squared under the light. i also use a fluke 561 to check my canopy temp once they get a little bigger. i've found that air temperature around the leaf measure by probes doesn't always equal the surface temp of the leaf measured by an ir gun, and reduced taco leaves by a fair margin using it. my meter is a bluelab guardian and is made of awesomeness. i have a ip camera, and can log in and check my levels any time, also at nite, my check takes as long as it does to open the door instead of fiddling with pens and all that jazz. it takes calibration about once every 30 days, measures (t-b) EC, temp, pH.
sounds like a good time i'll try and be good and take tons of pictures and keep everyone updated at least weekly if not more.