FERO 336x3W and more, perpetual 12-12

yes tap water, I got 3x5gallons jug, I keep them filled with water and make sure it sits 24 hours before I use it, I have been pretty busy lately and the only thing I mixed with my water once or twice a grow is molasse
 
I don't check nothing, no ph, no ppm, i dont even know what E.C. means! the only thing I measure is the amendments when mixing my supersoil, the rest I do the transplanting part like subcool... and then plain water all the way, for the best meds!! My first time growing a year and a half ago I was using commercial nutes and I did ok considering it was my first time but pretty lame overall, and my pot didnt really get me high. With this method of growing, I have grown some of the best pot I have ever smoke and probably the most potent.

You must use at least 5gallons container for decent results especially if you are gonna veg more than 30 days, personally I am experimenting with 7 and 10 gallons 12/12 from seeds, with supersoil, the bigger the better.
 
Nice I got to give that try!
im just mad concerned on what's in our tap water, it's contaminated with some of the worse shit people let alone plants should be consuming.
Some would say I'm just paranoid, I say that's what they want u too think....

Paranoid yet? google it
 
Endur0xX said:
https://www.rollitup.org/subcools-old-school-organics/44686-subcools-super-soil-74.html if you use RO water with super soil you have to use cal-mag sub says

https://www.rollitup.org/subcools-old-school-organics/324254-super-soil-results-16.html one of my favorite thread, lots of pics of buds grown in supersoil, that might convince you!
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Sick thread! I've read thru it many times, it's all in the soil for sure, and RO water does lack a lot of nutrient, but last time I checked tap water has Floride and chlorine, just to name a few

Dont get me wrong I'm by no means questioning subcools super soil or your method, I'm just concerned on our water is all :leaf:
 
Endur0xX said:
Just plain water bud, ... I rock the supersoil, if you read through the journal you will find my supersoil recipe.



The light has the same frame and same lens, only I don't know if it has the same inside components, and most likely has different spectrum configuration. You might need to water less, it depends on your setup I don't know, I dont really pay attention to the frequency of watering, I have enough going on that I have to check the room daily but I don't water all that often.
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thank you... i hope the girl will tell me when shes thirsty:) as always
 
Fly, that's the reason for setting in in the jugs to disapate the chlorine, I would add a bubbler to help get rid of the floride. Either way a jug open to the air will disapate the levels of each to the point they won't effect your plants or you. It also depends on what type of chlorine your community uses, free chlorine will be gone in 24 to 36 hours depending on the residual where as a total chlorine will take longer because of the ammonia they use to make it a total chlorine. LAS (Liquid Ammonia Sulfate) is a damn good fertilizer when diluted right, very high N...:weed:
 
Just so everyone knows, aerating the water will not remove flouride. Chlorine yes but chloride no...thought I would say so.
 
Everyone seems to be growing in soil with LED but I really prefer aero, hence why I asked about EC values which by the way is electrical conductivity. It is essentially a measurement of the salts in the solution. In case anyone wants to know EC values in aero 1.5 - 1.6EC is perfect for allround use. Sorry if this is high jacking the thread...
 
Also to clarify the chlorine does not completely leave the water. When I took a trip to our local water plant for a water project in our sustainability class, we where told the chlorine will never completely leave the water, they say it's "safe" but last time I checked chlorine is by no means safe or Green(im well aware of letting it sit or add bubbles to help desperse the chlorine, but it will never leave, chlorine is chlorine)
I just mention two contaminates, trust me there thousands of chemicals in our water that we know about, and there's hundreds that they don't want to tell us.
Just like newworlicon, I'm not trying to hijack or question you methods, just concern :leaf:

All these sustainable classes I took really open up my eyes to what kind of fucked up shit is happening in this world, Floride in our water is just one of them
 
newworldicon said:
Everyone seems to be growing in soil with LED but I really prefer aero, hence why I asked about EC values which by the way is electrical conductivity. It is essentially a measurement of the salts in the solution. In case anyone wants to know EC values in aero 1.5 - 1.6EC is perfect for allround use. Sorry if this is high jacking the thread...
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They say EC, Ph or ppm readings for soil isn't necessary, and truthfull they are right, but I like knowing because not only I look at this as a art, but as pure science as well
 
I think we can all agree the levels of chlorine and other junk is something we can't get away from until everyone says enough, problem is enough don't do that. I also think that the plants can handle it hence why we are all stoned:eyesmoke:
 
foreverflyhi said:
Yo so I've been looking into new LEDs what's the coverage of your fero? Is there a stronger fero with more coverage?
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The AF-600 is slightly bigger, 570watts, covers 4x4 ... I will have to wait until my next grow, but because I wasnt home for a while , all but one got a little too close to the light and I cant really raise it higher in my room. It appears to me that the plant that stayed about 14'' (I would have to measure to be certain) from the light is growing much bigger buds, it could be genetic, or just the fact that she is about 1 week ahead, but I think you get a nicer blend of spectrum at a certain distance. I would say if you scrog, you would easily get the 4x4 advertised by FERO with great results because you can keep the light high enough to get that coverage.

I am already excited about my next grow and this one has a while to go hehe!! This winter will be the best though because I will have a lot more time to take care of them girls. I might attempt another SCROG this winter...
 
No close up today, I had the wide angle lens on the camera and I was too lazy to look for the right lens...

Its fattening up!! The Chemdog is starting to look pretty heavy, the main top is at 14'' from the light, the rest of the big buds are at 20-22'' from the light, I am starting to think that 20 '' is the optimal distance, next run I will try to keep the whole canopy at 20'' when they start budding. I would say about 20ish days left on it.
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I think this one in the right corner is a K-Train, a bit younger so I put the measuring tape next to it so we can compare in a couple weeks!
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This one is another K-train, also getting heavierk this one is the one that was touching the FERO when I left home for a couple weeks, ever since I didnt really have time to move my lights for the main cola (the one that got a little hot) to get light so everything else is sort of becoming the main colas...well as you can see on the pics, The 2 K-trains that are in the same container on the back wall have grown too tall for the main cola to get fat, they are out of light. I put the smaller FERO unit way up now so that all those lower buds at the edge get some light.
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Here we have the other Chemdog, coming along nicely, this one will have some weight on it too, no huge buds but a lot of them.
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I hope you enjoy the pics as much I as I enjoyed taking them!
 
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