I use Budzbuddha's technique with 5 gallon buckets. I've grown photos fine, but mostly autoflowers. I can tell you that if you use this method on autos, you won't hardly have to add many nutes for fast flowering autos. I start in solo cups and use mycos when transplanting. Water it good and completely and then use the ,"feel the bucket weight" method afterwards. I can get almost 2 months without adding anything but water. If you follow this method correctly, its hard to go wrong. Keep that ph between 6.2 to 6.5 and you'll be fine. I'm just starting some more myself. Keep us posted eh? Good luck!Thanks for all the info...Im about to go into a 5gal with the info posted here...My question is, Do i saturate the bottom 1/3rd, along with the layer of mycos? Do i leave the top 2/3rds dry(50/50 ffof an hf)? I hope this is still open..Thanks for all the info
Telling growers to PH between 6.2 to 6.5 sounds like bad advice to give soil growers. I don't think Budzbuddha ever suggested someone adjust PH to that range.I use Budzbuddha's technique with 5 gallon buckets. I've grown photos fine, but mostly autoflowers. I can tell you that if you use this method on autos, you won't hardly have to add many nutes for fast flowering autos. I start in solo cups and use mycos when transplanting. Water it good and completely and then use the ,"feel the bucket weight" method afterwards. I can get almost 2 months without adding anything but water. If you follow this method correctly, its hard to go wrong. Keep that ph between 6.2 to 6.5 and you'll be fine. I'm just starting some more myself. Keep us posted eh? Good luck!
Thanks for posting that, I haven't read the thread I was just going from my previous assumption. I always thought in the past he was shooting for 6.8, maybe 6.5 - 6.8.View attachment 5206484
The very first post in this thread. But yeah, I think 6.2 might be stretching it in soil. But thats just me.
Thanks for posting that, I haven't read the thread I was just going from my previous assumption. I always thought in the past he was shooting for 6.8, maybe 6.5 - 6.8.
6.2 - 6.3 sounds scary to me especially when the growers taking the advice are usually novice growers that are likely to not properly use and care for a cheap PH pen and may screw up their grow adjusting PH that low. I think many would do better to not PH their water at all, but I guess there are many ways to get good results.
From the very first postWater :
TAP ( whether allowed to vape off 24 hours or not ) it will work. No RO , distilled , holy water , unicorn sweat or other “ special “ water sources. Your ONLY REQUIREMENT is to PH correctly.
PH range for entire autoflower run : 6.3 to 6.5 ( No more No less ) .
Everytime I've not ph'd indooors I've regretted it. My well water is like 5.8(ouch!) -6.1. If you use mycos it really does help control the ph the plant actually gets. It helped me greatly. My only problems since have been spider mites and powdery mildew. Both were my fault from cross contamination.Thanks for posting that, I haven't read the thread I was just going from my previous assumption. I always thought in the past he was shooting for 6.8, maybe 6.5 - 6.8.
6.2 - 6.3 sounds scary to me especially when the growers taking the advice are usually novice growers that are likely to not properly use and care for a cheap PH pen and may screw up their grow adjusting PH that low. I think many would do better to not PH their water at all, but I guess there are many ways to get good results.
0
I water mine with straight tap without ph adjustments. Even at nearly 8 i havent had an issue.Okay so I misquoted the ph by .1 my bad that. But I haven't had any trouble as long as it stays over 6. But if you follow @Budzbuddha method it's hard to go wrong. But whatever works for you. My only problems now are lack of better beans and I'm remedying that soon.
That's because it has pixie dust to buffer it out.But....aint gonna lie.....when you use unicorn sweat, the PH is always perfect.
Mine is like yours near 8. I never adjust PH. My ppms average 400 and I like to cut the tap in half with RO down to 200 ppms.I water mine with straight tap without ph adjustments. Even at nearly 8 i havent had an issue.
Potting soil does act as a buffer
I’ve grown in FFOF with a PH 5.8-6.2 and the girls loved it. Just my experienceThanks for posting that, I haven't read the thread I was just going from my previous assumption. I always thought in the past he was shooting for 6.8, maybe 6.5 - 6.8.
6.2 - 6.3 sounds scary to me especially when the growers taking the advice are usually novice growers that are likely to not properly use and care for a cheap PH pen and may screw up their grow adjusting PH that low. I think many would do better to not PH their water at all, but I guess there are many ways to get good results.
I can see that if your tap water has that PH from the tap. I'm suggesting that new growers who use PH down to get in those ranges will not likely have the same success you are. What is the EC or ppm of your tap water? The lower it is the easier it will adapt to the soil PH vs hard water IMO.I’ve grown in FFOF with a PH 5.8-6.2 and the girls loved it. Just my experience
Ppm is 250 and a ph of nearly 9 from the tap.... it’s nuts. My last grow I never ph’d anything. Crazy sounding I know but the plants did really well. I give credit to the General Organics line of nutrients. I’ve never used it until this past grow. Amazing accompanying the FFOFI can see that if your tap water has that PH from the tap. I'm suggesting that new growers who use PH down to get in those ranges will not likely have the same success you are. What is the EC or ppm of your tap water? The lower it is the easier it will adapt to the soil PH vs hard water IMO.
And your correct, a new grower can straight up kill a plant with PH fumbles. A pen out of calibration can make a fella chase his tail....I can see that if your tap water has that PH from the tap. I'm suggesting that new growers who use PH down to get in those ranges will not likely have the same success you are. What is the EC or ppm of your tap water? The lower it is the easier it will adapt to the soil PH vs hard water IMO.