Figuring PPF of Samsung F Series Build

Buddhafamily456

Buddhafamily456

Member
nfhiggs said:
I'm assuming the 22", 25W strips - I would do 24 so you can split them evenly between two drivers - that would also allow you to put 6 strips over each 2x2 quadrant in a 4x4 tent. OTOH, If you're talking about the 44" 50W strips, that's way overkill.
Click to expand...
That’s smart.
And yeah the 2’ Strips. I was thinking running all 25 on a hlg-480-24 driver in a 4x4 area and getting another driver to supplement red and far red light.
 
Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Buddhafamily456 said:
Thank you for showing me these.
So before I knew that these were available I had planned on making a series circuit of red, far red, and royal blue small cree cob LEDs from rapid LED
I was gonna use
cree xp-e photo red (660 nm)
Cree xp-e far red (720-740 nm)
And either
Cree xp-g3 royal blue led(440-455 nm)
Or
Semiled royal blue led(440-455 nm)

I was basically gonna make a strip out of them using them all in series and tying them into the parallel circuit I was making with the f-series strips.

So you think it’s a better idea to scrap that thought and go with these 1750k strips instead.
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Yes, definately!
At first single monochromatic diodes are much more costly then 8 Vero13 or Vero18.
The 1750°k offers all the wavelength you want in one package, no need to mention that the colors are already mixed and you get a much more even distribution. With single diodes, there are always spots with more red or more blue, depending on where you measure the spectrum.
Wiring and mounting only 8 COB's is also a lot easier and faster.

I'm using modded DIY c-channel heatsinks for each four V18c Bridgelux COB's(3000°k/CRI93) at 500mA(~70w). It's a small 25x 20x 25mm c-channel glued into a bigger 30x 40x 30mm c-channel, both 1150mm length. Heatsink temps stabilized aound 45°C with 30°C ambient temps and a little airflow inside the tent. COB's Tj. should be less than 55°C.

The other snapshots show how I combined stips and COB's channels to one frame. It's currently designed for a 4x2', but can be easily widened for a 4x4'. That's why I used that many stripes!
As you see I've added "only" CRI93 COB's instead of the 1750°k chips. That's because I want to see the true colors of the plants and of course because they cost only half that much. I've paid only 6,93$ per COB on arrow.com with a 20% discount of course. Subscribe to their newletter and you get notified when they offer discounds.
And before you ask, the tube in the center is a 39w Arcadia UVB reptile T5HO bulb(12%/30% UVB/A, 7000°k/CRI90).
DIY heatsinks, each for 4x V18c_CRI90 @525mA, 2x 70w.png
 

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Buddhafamily456

Buddhafamily456

Member
Also on rapid LED it says you can only dim Meanwell LDD drivers with a bluefish controller, so does that mean I can’t dim an hlg-480-24b using one?
 
Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
If the bluefish has really no 10v pwm or 0-10v dimming then you need the extension card to convert the 5v pwm signal into a 0-10v signal. But I thought the bluefish can do that without such card, for 200 bucks he should, lol!

Edit:
Zitat:
"The bluefish controller control up to 6 channels independently using 0-10V, 5V PWM, or 10V PWM output"

That means it works with Meanwell's HLG series out of the box and you can use both 0-10v or 10v pwm dimming.
Read at least the discribtion and specs sheet, mate!

https://www.rapidled.com/bluefish-led-controller/


BTW,
rapidled has also PCB boards to mount up to 4 LDD's on. Each channel can still be dimmed seperately but you need only one 36 or 48vdc connection(depending on which LDD's you use) because of the internal circuits inside the PCB. There is also no need for a soldering iron, simple plug and play.

https://www.rapidled.com/ldd-h-4-driver-board/
 
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Buddhafamily456

Buddhafamily456

Member
Randomblame said:
If the bluefish has really no 10v pwm or 0-10v dimming then you need the extension card to convert the 5v pwm signal into a 0-10v signal. But I thought the bluefish can do that without such card, for 200 bucks he should, lol!

Edit:
Zitat:
"Cbluefish controller control up to 6 channels independently using 0-10V, 5V PWM, or 10V PWM output"

That means it works with Meanwell's HLG series out of the box and you can use both 0-10v or 10v pwm dimming.
Read at least the discribtion and specs sheet, mate!

https://www.rapidled.com/bluefish-led-controller/


BTW,
rapidled has also PCB boards to mount up to 5 LDD's on. Each channel can still be dimmed seperately but you need only one 48v connection because of the internal circuits inside the PCB.
Click to expand...

Thanks man. I was looking at the specs and everything but I was getting confused because on rapidled it says it only works with LDD Drivers? So it didn’t make sense to me. And literally right as you were answering me here I was creating a thread asking questions about the LDD Drivers. I’m a little confused by them.
 
Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
No need to worry, it's actually pretty easy.

The main driver is connected to a certain number of LDD drivers and these LDD drivers run a certain number of LED's in series. The LDD's offer only 5v pwm dimming and they are available with with 38v and 52v input voltage and up-to 1500mA output current.
Each reef controller based on Arduino/rasPi has 5v pwm but the bluefish has also 10v pwm and 0-10v dimming options.
All the other controllers need an additional 5v pwm to 0-10v extension card.(for each channel in the worst case)

If you take such a board, you need only one 36 or 48v connection but each LDD dimming port needs it's own 5v pwm connection to the reef controller. If you use 4 LDD's you need 4 pwm ports on the controller. The driver who run the LDD's need no pwm connection because the LDD's are dimmed seperately. Therefor you only need the A version!

So a HLG-xxxH-48A + 4 LDD's means four 5v pwm channels are needed to connect the LDD's to the controller.

If you add another HLG-xxxH-24B for your white strips, you need a 5th. pwm connection but it must be set up to work with either 10v pwm or 0-10v.(if it does not recognize it automaticly).
In this case the dimming wires are directly connected to the controller.
Every other driver you add needs another pwm connection. If you need more than six there are extension boards with up-to 12 or 16 pwm connections.
 
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S

slope

Member
Buddhafamily456 said:
I thought there was some kind of equation

I saw in a video, I think it was posted by GrowMau5.. he used the micromoles per joule of a single ended HPS to figure out PPFD.. he used 1,000(the fixture wattage) x 1.3(micromoles per joule of fixture) and figured that out to be 1300. Saying the fixtures PPF was 1300 .. how could I find the PPF of a fixture I am building using the Samsung F Series strips? I see on the info of the strips it gives a lm/w number and I’m guessing this somehow correlates to the micromoles per joule measurement ... also if I were to be using multiple strips how could this be measured?..
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Hi - know Keep Calm this already answered this but thought this might be useful calculator. Can't vouch for it's accuracy though it did output exactly the same ppfd as his conversion factor for a given number of lumens. It'll also give you useful info on spacing, height from canopy, etc. Can even help you save a little on the leccy, if you're so minded.

edman007.com/~edman007/pub/par-dli-cal.html

If the link doesn't work, google
PAR/PPF/DLI Calculator - edman007.com
and that should do the trick. You'll have fun.

I used it in conjunction with various info on ppfd, DLI and PAR watts and it raised some interesting stuff.
 
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