First grow journal! using White Widow from AMS!!

daddychrisg

daddychrisg

Well-Known Member
I have looked at all the available pictures, and I am still at odds with your leaf problem. I would have to lean towards heat stress. It is hard to tell, but it seems that the problem gets worse near the top of the plant, and the curling up ward along the edges of the leaf are a sure sign that they are gettin cooked. And I think it "does" matter that you have this problem, your yield will be effected. Plus the Temps that you are having are going to do damage most likely, so that has to be fixed anyways. The plants are not showing any signs of slowing down, so I would have to say that you just might be going the full 10 weeks as you thought at the beginning of this grow. You grew some nice buds there man, I mean widowman. Looks like you will be getting that .5 gram per watt! Do you have another crop Veged and ready to go?
 
skunkushybrid

skunkushybrid

New Member
Yes I agree... looks like an overnute to me though. I can't see very many curled leaves, which makes me think your temps are ok. Besides the most important thing is the temp of your res'. This is more important in the plants ability to uptake nutes.

I can't see much wilting so i doubt it's undernute. I think you should just give plain ph'd water feed for a while. Help break down some of those salts.

Great looking bud. :mrgreen:
 
widowman64

widowman64

Well-Known Member
phD water? distilled or RO? Have 3 clones in their first week vegging! The temp has been staying at 78 after I cut the ne intake hole which is bringing really cold air from the attic. I havent noticed any benifit from it yet though it doesnt seem to have fixed the prob. I have never checked the res temp but I have a sunleaves resv heater in it set at like 72(the lowest setting) just in case it gets too cold. maybe that is the problem??????
 
skunkushybrid

skunkushybrid

New Member
I doubt it. 72f should be fine. 68f is ideal though. Give plain ph'd water, around 5.5ph. Doesn't really matter on the type of water. Just give whatever you feel is best. So long as it has a ph of 5.5.

Your problem def' looks like nute burn to me... If it was undernute your leaf tips would point downwards and your plant would look saggy looking. Best to give the plain ph'd water, else you might cause lockout of vital nute's.
 
daddychrisg

daddychrisg

Well-Known Member
Fist off, good job on getting your temps to 78deg. That had to be fixed. Kushy always kicks out great feed back, so I would fully take his advice and flush those ladies out with ph'd water. I wonder what the Def. was in the first place...? I did not read what nutes you are using.

Hey Kushy, what is your opinion on Res temps being to low? How does the cold Temps keep the plants from intake of Nutes? I have played with this, and my conclusion is that the plant likes the warmer temps, but the build up of slime is two fold.
 
widowman64

widowman64

Well-Known Member
so do you suggest me doing a water change in the resv. and only add the ph'd water and no nutes for a couple days??? Im not understanding your cure very clearly
 
skunkushybrid

skunkushybrid

New Member
daddychrisg said:
Fist off, good job on getting your temps to 78deg. That had to be fixed. Kushy always kicks out great feed back, so I would fully take his advice and flush those ladies out with ph'd water. I wonder what the Def. was in the first place...? I did not read what nutes you are using.

Hey Kushy, what is your opinion on Res temps being to low? How does the cold Temps keep the plants from intake of Nutes? I have played with this, and my conclusion is that the plant likes the warmer temps, but the build up of slime is two fold.
Click to expand...
I know what you mean. this type of information changes all the time. I'd say colder temps were better than warmer. Certain pathogens are more easily cultivated in warmer water, which can lead to root rot. I'm not exactly sure of what the exact temp's are... even scientists are often wrong... but it does seem logical to me to go for colder rather than warmer.
 
daddychrisg

daddychrisg

Well-Known Member
I know what you mean. this type of information changes all the time. I'd say colder temps were better than warmer. Certain pathogens are more easily cultivated in warmer water, which can lead to root rot. I'm not exactly sure of what the exact temp's are... even scientists are often wrong... but it does seem logical to me to go for colder rather than warmer.

And when you say "colder" you mean 68deg.? I have gone down as far as 48deg. Not much build up with those "cold" temps, but it could have attributed my low on that harvest. I think I dropped about 25% off my usual monthly harvest. Of course another unseen variable could have contributed to the drop in yield, but, the kicker for me is that if I added fresh water to my Res @ the end of the week, I am sure that the ppm would be higher in the cold water, leaving me to believe that in warmer water the plants used more of the nutrients then in the cold water.
 
widowman64

widowman64

Well-Known Member
i have been just toping off with just plain water and when the ppm drops about 100-150 i add nutes to bring up to par. right now im slowly decreasing and its at 1050 right now. maybe it is because of salt build up because i am unable to clean the inside of the res. i can only drain it out and fill it back up with fresh solution
 
widowman64

widowman64

Well-Known Member
usually the plant drinks about 1 gallons a day, nd i fill the water level back up every two days. after about 4-5 days i end up adding more nutes
 
skunkushybrid

skunkushybrid

New Member
widowman64 said:
i have been just toping off with just plain water and when the ppm drops about 100-150 i add nutes to bring up to par. right now im slowly decreasing and its at 1050 right now. maybe it is because of salt build up because i am unable to clean the inside of the res. i can only drain it out and fill it back up with fresh solution
Click to expand...

Yes, this would most likely be it. They could also all be broken down now... best to play safe though.
 
skunkushybrid

skunkushybrid

New Member
daddychrisg said:
I know what you mean. this type of information changes all the time. I'd say colder temps were better than warmer. Certain pathogens are more easily cultivated in warmer water, which can lead to root rot. I'm not exactly sure of what the exact temp's are... even scientists are often wrong... but it does seem logical to me to go for colder rather than warmer.

And when you say "colder" you mean 68deg.? I have gone down as far as 48deg. Not much build up with those "cold" temps, but it could have attributed my low on that harvest. I think I dropped about 25% off my usual monthly harvest. Of course another unseen variable could have contributed to the drop in yield, but, the kicker for me is that if I added fresh water to my Res @ the end of the week, I am sure that the ppm would be higher in the cold water, leaving me to believe that in warmer water the plants used more of the nutrients then in the cold water.
Click to expand...


68f is believed to be the optimum temp'. Anything more is warmer, anything lower is colder. You've made an excellent point though. What do you class as warm?
 
bongspit

bongspit

New Member
daddychrisg said:
I know what you mean. this type of information changes all the time. I'd say colder temps were better than warmer. Certain pathogens are more easily cultivated in warmer water, which can lead to root rot. I'm not exactly sure of what the exact temp's are... even scientists are often wrong... but it does seem logical to me to go for colder rather than warmer.

And when you say "colder" you mean 68deg.? I have gone down as far as 48deg. Not much build up with those "cold" temps, but it could have attributed my low on that harvest. I think I dropped about 25% off my usual monthly harvest. Of course another unseen variable could have contributed to the drop in yield, but, the kicker for me is that if I added fresh water to my Res @ the end of the week, I am sure that the ppm would be higher in the cold water, leaving me to believe that in warmer water the plants used more of the nutrients then in the cold water.
Click to expand...
I am not disagreeing with you, but why would ppm be higher in cold water?
 
widowman64

widowman64

Well-Known Member
daddychrisg said:
Fist off, good job on getting your temps to 78deg. That had to be fixed. Kushy always kicks out great feed back, so I would fully take his advice and flush those ladies out with ph'd water. I wonder what the Def. was in the first place...? I did not read what nutes you are using.

Hey Kushy, what is your opinion on Res temps being to low? How does the cold Temps keep the plants from intake of Nutes? I have played with this, and my conclusion is that the plant likes the warmer temps, but the build up of slime is two fold.
Click to expand...




?"ladies"? lol that is only one plant sir!:hump:
 
daddychrisg

daddychrisg

Well-Known Member
68f is believed to be the optimum temp'. Anything more is warmer, anything lower is colder. You've made an excellent point though. What do you class as warm?

68-74, I can control my heat as low as 68. Under that and I have to pull the heater out before it shuts off automatically.

I am not disagreeing with you, but why would ppm be higher in cold water?

Because during the week that the water was in the high 40's low 50's, the plants did not take up the nutrients, so when fresh water was added, the ppm's were not far off what they were at the beginning of that week.

i have been just toping off with just plain water and when the ppm drops about 100-150 i add nutes to bring up to par. right now im slowly decreasing and its at 1050 right now. maybe it is because of salt build up because i am unable to clean the inside of the res. i can only drain it out and fill it back up with fresh
solution

Have you heard of a product called FloraKleen? Every other week I clean my Res with 250ml and 250-500ml of FloraShield "depending on how much I have at the time!" I run this for 3 30 min cycles in between nute changes. I see a rise of about 3-4oo ppm after 3 cycles. This leads me to believe that I have taken out most of the salts that have built up during the two weeks of feeding. Now I can add fresh nutrient and my ppm is not a reading of left over salt build up...It take alittle more time, but, I think it is worth the work. I have a Ebb n Grow set-up, the basic layout of this system is a 50 gal Res, and a control unit that controls the height of the water level and the time of the feeding. They say that one controller can feed up to 48 buckets, but my experience was not satisfactory with that many. I like to use up to 36, so I like to grow medium size plants in this system, 3-4'. I have two controllers so my room is well packed!
 
widowman64

widowman64

Well-Known Member
i wouldnt be able to use those cleaning products because i cannot get the plant out of the res. to clean the res.(its tied to the wall and if It I lift the lid the plant falls over and its just dangerous) Is there anything else I can use to break down those salts by just adding something to the solution?
 
skunkushybrid

skunkushybrid

New Member
Just plain ph'd water will do the trick. Just keep topping up with that for a couple of feeds. Can't wait to see the final weight on this grow. Excellent crop.
 
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