Dr. Who
Well-Known Member
That sounds about right!
Light saturation is natural.....The proper use of Co2 slows it down by the about 30% increase in yield from it's use.
First Grow Leaves Clawing Down When Lights Go Off
- Thread starter Deathhasnofriends
- Start date
Light saturation is natural.....The proper use of Co2 slows it down by the about 30% increase in yield from it's use.
Deathhasnofriends
Member
Last edited:
Deathhasnofriends
Member
So if I run co2 would I get better results and do you use co2 in veg and flower?
Deathhasnofriends
Member
Yes I only run 18 hours on and 6 off in veg and 12 on 12 off during flower I keep the hps lamp in flower 20" off the canopy and canopy temps are at 77-78 degrees. And Dr.Who thank you for all the advice like I said I know I'm over thinking everything now I just hope that I didn't really screw up my girl how long before I can due the tea treatment and do I put the the EWC alfalfa meal and molasses right in to the water. And after bubbling for 48 hours then add the sea weed extract to the water mix then give to the ladie?@Deathhasnofriends
Shit , after pushing 12 gallons of water through the poor thing. It'll be a wonder if there is any nutrition left, even the soils.
Superbaked didn't tell you to flush! It would have been and still is - not the best idea.
In fact - the pictures you posted show wonderful looking plants that needed NOTHING but patience!
Lets start like this.
It was NOT clawing from N tox! How about you search "Light saturation point in C3 plants" and learn about what plants do during the lights out time. Your plants are most assuredly doing that leaf "sag" not "N Claw" from what you should have just read about. N clawing is more at the end and looks like someone bent them over.
Now lets talk about pH
Attempting to figure the soil pH from run off is, well, stupid! There are way to many variables to make any "formula" for doing so accurate! The reason your run off came in at 6.1 and around that is simply because when you water/feed. The pH of the soil drops as much as a point on average! As the soil dries back out the pH rise's back up to it's normal value. This is how nature give plants the proper pH zones for the specific nutrients to be up-taken in the most efficient/effective amounts. This is so for synthetics and organics!
Now then. By dumping so much water through your NOT N toxed plants you have disrupted the normal pH balance of the soil by allowing it to be wet for an extended period of time. This means that the pH will be low for an extended period of time. You have most likely started a low Ca, Mg and P situation. You have really slapped the living bio's (Myco's and Fungus) in the soil and you should (WHEN THE SOIL HAS DRIED BACK OUT TO THE POINT OF WATERING) add strong, living bio's back to the soil so it can at least attempt to self regulate the pH again!
What I would suggest now.
For the return of living bio's you should use a good basic bio tea to water with. There are dry bio's and other supplements out there but there is no better then an active living bio tea for fast replacement!
MAKE YOUR OWN!
1, 5 gallon bucket
4 gallons spring, rain, puddle, river, stream water - NO RO or TAP or DISTILLED water!
1, round or circular air stone (a cpl of 6 inch stones if no rounds)
1 aquarium air pump (more power the better) (2 outlet if round stones not used)
1 cup EWC
1/4 cup unsulfured black strap molasses
1/4 cup Alfalfa meal
Kelp/sea weed extract
Take the bucket and put the air pump and stones together. Put the stones in the bucket as far apart as you can and add the water.
Stones still apart? Now turn on the pump and add the EWC, molasses and Alfalfa meal.
Run this for 48 hrs as close to 70F as you can.
When done add 1 tsp Kelp extract per gallon of tea and water directly to plants.....
NOTE: The tea will keep about 3 days if stored in the fridge....Use up fast OR make only what you need for your plants by reducing the above formula to your needs!
You have now replaced (and increased) the living bio's to the soil.
The Alfalfa and the Kelp have given back Micro's and some low NPK the plant needs fast right now.
You should restart feeding at the next watering.
You should for your nervous nature from now on. Ph all in-going to 6.7 and forget about the soils pH!
You should alternate feed and waterings till done - feed - water - feed - water and on and on.
You should NOT change to a "bloom" nutrient till 2 weeks after you flip the lighting to flower times!
You should use the tea at least every2 weeks as synthetics are very hard on the living bio's in the soil.
You should - when using FFOF soil add at least a 1/2 cup of Dolomite lime to the whole bag as it's a bit low on lime and Mg for the long haul! FOR SURE if you add other things like EWC!
Stop obsessing on the plants at every look you take!
STOP going in at lights out and looking for something that's NOT there!
BE patient! It will grow with out you worrying so much!
Good Luck!
Dr. Who
Well-Known Member
Yes to your tea question!
As far as Co2 goes, I do sometimes and I don't sometimes. That's a choice I make depending on how close together my bloom room is to finishing at the same time...
Co2 is not worth the cost to benefit ratio to use in veg! Bloom only and you turn it off for the last 2 weeks for ripening.
The use of Co2 requires high light intensities coupled with a temp of 86 - 90F and an RH of 75 - 80% to work correctly at 1500ppm Co2.
Deathhasnofriends
Member
3rd week flower update thank you Dr. Who for all the helpful information now after the microbial tea feeding and 1 regular flower feeding she blew up and looks so healthy now and she really took off also after getting my humidity locked in now the tents RH is 50% lights on and 55% lights off and temps are max 80℉ lights on and 63℉ min lights off also she is starting to develop some frost too.@Deathhasnofriends
Shit , after pushing 12 gallons of water through the poor thing. It'll be a wonder if there is any nutrition left, even the soils.
Superbaked didn't tell you to flush! It would have been and still is - not the best idea.
In fact - the pictures you posted show wonderful looking plants that needed NOTHING but patience!
Lets start like this.
It was NOT clawing from N tox! How about you search "Light saturation point in C3 plants" and learn about what plants do during the lights out time. Your plants are most assuredly doing that leaf "sag" not "N Claw" from what you should have just read about. N clawing is more at the end and looks like someone bent them over.
Now lets talk about pH
Attempting to figure the soil pH from run off is, well, stupid! There are way to many variables to make any "formula" for doing so accurate! The reason your run off came in at 6.1 and around that is simply because when you water/feed. The pH of the soil drops as much as a point on average! As the soil dries back out the pH rise's back up to it's normal value. This is how nature give plants the proper pH zones for the specific nutrients to be up-taken in the most efficient/effective amounts. This is so for synthetics and organics!
Now then. By dumping so much water through your NOT N toxed plants you have disrupted the normal pH balance of the soil by allowing it to be wet for an extended period of time. This means that the pH will be low for an extended period of time. You have most likely started a low Ca, Mg and P situation. You have really slapped the living bio's (Myco's and Fungus) in the soil and you should (WHEN THE SOIL HAS DRIED BACK OUT TO THE POINT OF WATERING) add strong, living bio's back to the soil so it can at least attempt to self regulate the pH again!
What I would suggest now.
For the return of living bio's you should use a good basic bio tea to water with. There are dry bio's and other supplements out there but there is no better then an active living bio tea for fast replacement!
MAKE YOUR OWN!
1, 5 gallon bucket
4 gallons spring, rain, puddle, river, stream water - NO RO or TAP or DISTILLED water!
1, round or circular air stone (a cpl of 6 inch stones if no rounds)
1 aquarium air pump (more power the better) (2 outlet if round stones not used)
1 cup EWC
1/4 cup unsulfured black strap molasses
1/4 cup Alfalfa meal
Kelp/sea weed extract
Take the bucket and put the air pump and stones together. Put the stones in the bucket as far apart as you can and add the water.
Stones still apart? Now turn on the pump and add the EWC, molasses and Alfalfa meal.
Run this for 48 hrs as close to 70F as you can.
When done add 1 tsp Kelp extract per gallon of tea and water directly to plants.....
NOTE: The tea will keep about 3 days if stored in the fridge....Use up fast OR make only what you need for your plants by reducing the above formula to your needs!
You have now replaced (and increased) the living bio's to the soil.
The Alfalfa and the Kelp have given back Micro's and some low NPK the plant needs fast right now.
You should restart feeding at the next watering.
You should for your nervous nature from now on. Ph all in-going to 6.7 and forget about the soils pH!
You should alternate feed and waterings till done - feed - water - feed - water and on and on.
You should NOT change to a "bloom" nutrient till 2 weeks after you flip the lighting to flower times!
You should use the tea at least every2 weeks as synthetics are very hard on the living bio's in the soil.
You should - when using FFOF soil add at least a 1/2 cup of Dolomite lime to the whole bag as it's a bit low on lime and Mg for the long haul! FOR SURE if you add other things like EWC!
Stop obsessing on the plants at every look you take!
STOP going in at lights out and looking for something that's NOT there!
BE patient! It will grow with out you worrying so much!
Good Luck!
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Dr. Who
Well-Known Member
Good DEAL!3rd week flower update thank you Dr. Who for all the helpful information now after the microbial tea feeding and 1 regular flower feeding she blew up and looks so healthy now and she really took off also after getting my humidity locked in now the tents RH is 50% lights on and 55% lights off and temps are max 80℉ lights on and 63℉ min lights off also she is starting to develop some frost too.
Yeah they look like they really bounced back nicely!
I knew that would work......after all "been there done that"! Even if it was a long, long time ago, in a state far, far away...
Keep on track and I think you'll be very happy at the end!
Deathhasnofriends
Member
I'm hoping that she produces at least 3oz. Dried and cured but she is a decent size 31" to the net and 6" past now just super nervous and excited for the first time grow also and idea about flushing in the final 2 weeks or is that not really needed I also have heard of bubble flushing I just don't want bitter tasting bud. I've read so many different ways to flush and when to flush, that I am just making it more difficult than it needs to be.
Deathhasnofriends
Member
Thanks again this guy is so helpful and knows his $hit props ^
Dr. Who
Well-Known Member
Yes you are! Slow dry and proper long cure and NO bitterness - I swear.
Deathhasnofriends
Member
So would you say 5-8 days slow cure hanging in a small 2x2x6 tent with all vents open no lights dark room and 3-4 weeks cure should do it
Deathhasnofriends
Member
Well day 50 and everything is going great it seems Dr.Who was a great help I quit worrying so much and just let her grow of course with a little TLC every now and then but she looks like she will be ready next week some time all trics are pretty much milky.
