First Grow, Using CFL's

Tha Dope man187

Active Member
cutting off Yellowing Leafs or browning leafs is good for your plant. when they are yellowing or browning its time for them to go. as for the dots. i have a couple of ideas of what it is. just going to take me a day or 2 to figure it out. iwill keep you all posted
yes but if their not fully brown or yellow then they still produce energy for ur plant its best to wait until they turn completely brown or yellow

and the dots and the little bit of browning seem to look like PH problems whats ur ph of ur soil? and the ph of the water u give em?
 

tkjoe

Active Member
Ok so it is official. i know what the problem is. i was inspecting my plant and i have mites!!! GOD DAMN IT!!! go away for 6 days and come back with another problem. jsut when i thought things were gonig good again haha. the 1 good thing. is that winter is coming and after i get this plant under control im going to put my grow box outsidein the -40 degree weather, that should toast off anything in the box.

But in the mean time i need to figure out a solution. looks like i need to go to the hardware store!!

i was going to use Some AN Iguana Juice, but because of the mites and the chems i am going to have to use will just wait and hold off on the AN for the next grow.
 

tkjoe

Active Member
dont really care all that much about the smoke,. its more a hobby for me growing this. im sure i will get a handle on it soon!
 

bikeskill

Well-Known Member
the -40f might also kill the plant. you can put the plant a sealed container an increase the co2 ppm over 10000ppm for a couple of hours and it will kill all the bugs so you don't have to spray the plant with posion
 

tkjoe

Active Member
haha i meant after the plant is gone, and nothing is in it. i wouldnt put my plant in that kinda cold weather. if i had something that made c02 like a c02 container or something, i would definately do that. but as it turns out i dont. i think i may try a mixture of 1:2 or 1:3 rubbing alcohol and water. apparently if you spray off the mights with water, and then spray it with a mixture of alcohol. it will kill them off.

anyone else got any other ideas?
 

c5rftw

Well-Known Member
From Roseman DIY DWC thread: Spider Mites - Spider mites are not insects but are more closely related to spiders. These arachnids have four pairs of legs, no antennae and a single, oval body region. Most spider mites have the ability to produce a fine silk webbing. Spider mites are very tiny, being less than 1/50 inch (0.4mm) long when adults. Spider mites have tiny mouthparts modified for piercing individual plant cells and removing the contents. This results in tiny yellow or white speckles. When many of these feeding spots occur near each other, the foliage takes on a yellow or bronzed cast. Once the foliage of a plant becomes bronzed, it often drops prematurely. Heavily infested plants may be discolored, stunted or even killed. Web producing spider mites may coat the foliage with the fine silk which collects dust and looks dirty. Spider mite species seem to be warm weather or cool weather active pests. Adult females usually lay eggs on their host plants. The eggs hatch in days to weeks into the first stage, called a larva. Larvae are round bodied and have only three pairs of legs. The larvae feed for a few days, seek a sheltered spot to rest and then molt into the first nymphal stage. The first nymph now has four pairs of legs. The first nymphs feed a few days, rest and molt into the second nymph. The second nymphs feed, rest and molt into the adult stage. The males are usually the size of the second nymph and have pointed abdomens. The females have rounded abdomens and are the largest mites present. Most spider mites spend the winter in the egg stage but the twospotted spider mite over winters as adult females resting in protected places.

Solution - Early detection of spider mites, before damage is noticed, is VERY important. The tiny spider mites can be detected only by a full and thorough leaf inspection (on both sides of the leaf). If you find Spider Mites you must act fast and hit them hard with either a bleach solution (1 tablespoon of bleach to 1 gallon of very hot 95°F, pH balanced, water in a spray bottle.) Hydroponics Stores also sell Neem Oil and other remedies for spider mites.

Or one of the best things to do is get a bucket of HOT water and make a combination of neem oil and safer soap or additive free dish washing soap. You want the water to be warm so that the neem oil will break apart and mix throughout the water. DO NOT dunk your plants in until the water has safely come back to room temperature.
The safer soap will not only act as a wetting agent to help coat the plant but also weakens the exoskeletons of the lil buggers. The neem oil will make them immobile so they cannot move and suffocate them.
Dunking is the most effective method while they are smaller because it coats everything from the ground up, but this is a very effective spray. You should spray every three days, the undersides of the leaves or dunk every three days depending on size. This is the most eco friendly and safest method of treatment. This is what you should try first.
 

Tha Dope man187

Active Member
From Roseman DIY DWC thread: Spider Mites - Spider mites are not insects but are more closely related to spiders. These arachnids have four pairs of legs, no antennae and a single, oval body region. Most spider mites have the ability to produce a fine silk webbing. Spider mites are very tiny, being less than 1/50 inch (0.4mm) long when adults. Spider mites have tiny mouthparts modified for piercing individual plant cells and removing the contents. This results in tiny yellow or white speckles. When many of these feeding spots occur near each other, the foliage takes on a yellow or bronzed cast. Once the foliage of a plant becomes bronzed, it often drops prematurely. Heavily infested plants may be discolored, stunted or even killed. Web producing spider mites may coat the foliage with the fine silk which collects dust and looks dirty. Spider mite species seem to be warm weather or cool weather active pests. Adult females usually lay eggs on their host plants. The eggs hatch in days to weeks into the first stage, called a larva. Larvae are round bodied and have only three pairs of legs. The larvae feed for a few days, seek a sheltered spot to rest and then molt into the first nymphal stage. The first nymph now has four pairs of legs. The first nymphs feed a few days, rest and molt into the second nymph. The second nymphs feed, rest and molt into the adult stage. The males are usually the size of the second nymph and have pointed abdomens. The females have rounded abdomens and are the largest mites present. Most spider mites spend the winter in the egg stage but the twospotted spider mite over winters as adult females resting in protected places.

Solution - Early detection of spider mites, before damage is noticed, is VERY important. The tiny spider mites can be detected only by a full and thorough leaf inspection (on both sides of the leaf). If you find Spider Mites you must act fast and hit them hard with either a bleach solution (1 tablespoon of bleach to 1 gallon of very hot 95°F, pH balanced, water in a spray bottle.) Hydroponics Stores also sell Neem Oil and other remedies for spider mites.

Or one of the best things to do is get a bucket of HOT water and make a combination of neem oil and safer soap or additive free dish washing soap. You want the water to be warm so that the neem oil will break apart and mix throughout the water. DO NOT dunk your plants in until the water has safely come back to room temperature.
The safer soap will not only act as a wetting agent to help coat the plant but also weakens the exoskeletons of the lil buggers. The neem oil will make them immobile so they cannot move and suffocate them.
Dunking is the most effective method while they are smaller because it coats everything from the ground up, but this is a very effective spray. You should spray every three days, the undersides of the leaves or dunk every three days depending on size. This is the most eco friendly and safest method of treatment. This is what you should try first.
sounds good to me and that will save u frm choppin up ur good leafs man
 

tkjoe

Active Member
talked to a friends dad who owns large organic farm etc... he said best thing to get commercially is BTK! can be found at crappytire! we will see how it works.
 

tkjoe

Active Member
so after spraying her down with water and then a couple hours later using BTK. I looked about 4 hours after i sprayed the BTK and i havent seen any black things yet. but i know i will have to do it in 4 or 5 more days because one of the mites was big and the others were realyl small. so i think maybe 1 more spray should take care of it. i think i caught it early enough. starting to make plans for my next grow too, the next one is going to be alot of fun i think.

I also cut a small intake hole at the bottom of the cabinet today, and placed a 33 cfm computer fan there for an intake because i added 2 more lights today and it was getting a couple of degrees warmer and the hole did the perfect trick! i added 2 2700k 26w bulbs :)
 

tkjoe

Active Member
nothing really to see man. plant looks almost the same as yesterday, just there were TINY TINY mites that you could barely see. definately not anything i could get a picture of. spcielally cause there wasnt many of them. i spoted about 4 or 5 and killed them all, then sprayed it all!!
 

tkjoe

Active Member
although i guess i could have taken a picture of the new fan and 2 lights. maybe tomorro haha
 

welsh wizz

Well-Known Member
tk you want to get some mite killer that says one application only, the poisons you have to repeat 3/4 days later dont kill the eggs you think their gone then bang they come back.
Iv had a battle with the little fkers tryed loads of ways to get rid of them, found a mite killer that only needed to be used once, and touch wood Iv not had them since it was the hydro stores own brand.
Very stinky stuff like pond water & fence treatment.
 

tkjoe

Active Member
ya i dont mind spraying it a couple times. i know they can only lay eggs every 5 days or so. so i am going to spray in 5 days if idont see any of them but if i see some again i will spray in 3 or 4 days. i will be looking really close tonight when i get home from work to see what i can see. i hope i got all of them on this spray so i only need to do it once more. i couldnt find any 1 spray stuff, as i have limited access to anything where i live.
 

DLC420

Well-Known Member
alright, hope shes okay TK! hope it kills them all in one try :)


EDIT: and go check out me and Dacs thread, and our new one in my sig :)
 

tkjoe

Active Member
It definately didnt kill them, as i could s abunch of small ones today running away from my blade. i will use some instant kill tomorro!
 
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